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Mar 8, 2013

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Benefits Of Engine Flush

Dragon Oil And Lubricants,S.A Many oil-change chains offer extra services these days, from transmission fluid changes to air conditioning maintenance. One of the services an oil change technician might suggest next time you're in is an engine flush, which is exactly what it sounds like it flushes the gunk out of your engine. Chemicals are poured into the engine, which is then gently idled for a few minutes to make sure the cleaning agent reaches everyplace oil would normally go. Then the chemicals are drained, just like the oil would be for an oil change. As a matter of fact, an engine flush is often performed after the old oil is taken out and before the new, clean oil is poured in. Clean is good, but keep in mind that many manufacturers advise against performing and engine flush on modern vehicles. Our engineers have conducted exhaustive tests to create specialized maintenance products and service standards that support the performance and longevity of our vehicles, and these standards don't include engine flushing." Engineers at GM said, "Engine oil flushes are not recommended. If oil is changed on schedule, you shouldn't have to flush the engine." There may be a few instances where an engine flush is required, but be aware that engine technology has progressed to the point that many newer vehicles not only don't need and engine flush, they may be harmed by the procedure. Keeping that caveat in mind, let's take a look at five benefits of engine flushes. 1) Remove deposit buildup. Sometimes, the way we drive keeps engine oil from being able to do its job completely and well. Short trips of only a few miles and lots of stop-and-go driving can cause particles in the oil to become deposits in the engine, which can build up over time. These deposits restrict the flow of oil. An engine flush can clear out those deposits to open narrow oil passages clogged by gunk that's been floating around in the oil. Releasing those deposits and allowing the oil to flow freely saves wear and tear on the engine and keeps parts moving as they should. 2)Give your car a clean slate. While most cars that are driven and maintained regularly don't need an engine flush, there are a few cases where doing an engine flush may help: Cars with an unknown maintenance record. If you just bought an older used car for a great price but it didn't come with any maintenance records, an engine flush followed by a few quarts of fresh oil might save you a headache later. Cars with recent internal engine work. You know the maintenance record of this engine -- and it's major. If your car had any engine work done, an engine flush could wash away leftover particulates before adding new oil. Cars with a long interval between oil changes. Again, you know the service record of this car, and you know the owner rarely (if ever) changed the oil. There's almost certainly buildup in the engine, since dirty oil only gets dirtier. An engine flush could give the car a longer life. 3) Keep new oil clean. Especially if you recognize your car's history (or lack of history) on the previous page, an engine flush could help keep your new oil clean. That's why these services are often performed together: First the flush to get rid of old oil deposits, then the new oil to keep the engine in tip-top shape. Without the engine flush, the new oil will just pick up the old deposits and sludge and keep them circulating through the engine. Soon enough, the new oil is just as dirty as the old oil. An engine flush can help you go longer between oil changes, especially if the maintenance on the car hasn't been perfect.  (Mar 8, 2013 | post #1)


High Quality Engine Oil

Dragon Oil And Lubricants,S.A Fuel is of course essential to every bike on the racing grid in equal measure so the racing teams work closely with their fuel suppliers to ensure that they carry exactly the right type of fuel and of course, exactly the right amount. All motorcycles must be fuelled with unleaded petrol. Firms supply the teams with fuel and their eternal quest is the highest possible performance at the lowest rates of weight and consumption. NEW ERA In 2002, for purposes of increasing safety, regulation changes related to weight, available fuel and engine capacity were introduced. Reducing the amount of available fuel over race distance requires an engine to run more efficiently, thereby reigning in power. A regulation allowing maximum of 26 litres was introduced in 2004, with that number incrementally lowering throughout the decade. Fuel tank capacity was reduced to 24 litres in 2005, and reduced a further 2 litres to 22 in 2006. From 2007 onwards the FIM regulated that engines are limited a maximum fuel capacity of 21 litres in MotoGP class with the exception of participating CRT teams that are allowed 2 more litres of fuel than factory teams. Races vary in length from circuit to circuit, and the demands of a certain track may mean that it results in higher fuel consumption for the bikes than other tracks of similar length. Teams can measure how much fuel they are using during qualifying and free practice sessions to ensure that just the right amount is in the tank when the race starts – as of course carrying unnecessary fuel could mean the fraction of a second which loses a race. In qualifying, the fastest times are often set right at the end of the session when the rider is fully warmed-up, his tyres are giving him maximum grip and - having emptied most of the tank - a lighter fuel load allows him to lap as quick as possible. Fuel is specially produced by the various fuel companies and is very precisely adapted for racing. The final product is only slightly different to the sort of fuel used by the general public, but must be approved for use by the FIM. The components are 99% the same as road fuel, but suppliers can alter the levels the hundreds of various components which fuel comprises to ensure they are using exactly the right blend of anti-oxidants, detergents, friction modifiers and so on to improve efficiency. LUBRICANT In addition to fuel, lubricant suppliers provide the teams with race modified engine oil, to lubricate and therefore reduce friction, which produces better fuel economy. This in turn means the bike can carry a minimum amount of fuel. Quality lubricants are based on a standard product, as is the fuel, though the racing product varies more with lubricants than with fuel. The oil has to lubricate the engine’s rotating parts, the gearbox’s constantly moving components and of course the clutch itself, which inevitably all get extremely hot on track. The more efficient the lubricant is the less fuel consumed and the better the bike performs, giving its rider a greater chance of victory. Dragon Oil And Lubricants,S.A produce a high quality engine oil to deliver high performance for bikes and racing cars.  (Mar 8, 2013 | post #1)


Dragon Oil And Lubricants Lab Tips - True Information Abo...

Dragon Oil And Lubricants,S.A Just thought I'd share some of my knowledge with everyone to try to improve our community. This is my first of who knows how many issues (i guess) of things I have found people to commonly misunderstand or be relatively uninformed about. I've got a BS from Ferris State University in Automotive Engineering, for those who need a little evidence. Contrary to popular belief... there is no need to change your oil every 3000 miles. It seems that every forum I've ever visited is filled with people who religiously follow the "change your oil every 3000 miles or your engine will explode" rule. And while this may have been the case 30 years ago, it simply isn't the case anymore. Oil doesn't wear out. Plain and simple. Whatever you do to it, however long you use it, oil will never wear out. Rather, we replace our oil because one of two things happen: Additives are used up - Oxidation inhibitors, extreme pressure additives, detergents, anti-wear additives, viscosity improvers and friction reducers are depleted or broken down over time. Each one of these additives only lasts so long in suspension in the oil before it must be used to do its job within the engine. Certain additives are broken down by extreme heat or pressures, while others are obsorbed into seals, used to capture contaminates, or used up within the metal parts of the engine itself. When these additives are used up, viscosity of the oil increases and lubricity of the oil decreases. This promotes wear within the engine and essentially renders the oil useless. The oil becomes contaminated - Oil becomes contaiminated with water, dirt, fuel, soot, wear metals, acid and other by-products of combustion. This leads to increased corrosion and poor viscosity of our oil which can damage vital engine parts or cause sludge buildup. There are additives that capture and suspend these particles within the oil, which are then captured within the oil filter, but those additives only last so long. And once they are gone, the sludge and wear begins to form. Many fleets and those highly dedicated to their vehicles use oil analysis companys to check their oil for life remaining and to see what contaminates are in the oil. This usually costs $10-30 per analysis and is mainly used to look for excessive wear and show signs of a failure before it actually happens. These analysis companys have provided data on all current oils meeting federal regulations, and the results have shown that oil changed at 3000 mile intervals (whether it be synthetic or conventional) isn't even half used up under street driven conditions. 30 years ago, when the 3000 mile rule was created. Oil additive technology was very poor and oil was not effective past 3000 miles. However, now oil additives remain effective for much longer, and in some cases (such as in some VWs) you can change your oil once every 12000 miles as long as you change your filter every 6000. The best advice about when to change oil is to look in your factory service manual and go by what it says. Unless you are doing oil analysis, this is the only way to know you are getting the most out of your oil while still staying within the safe range. However the following is my basic recommendation for oil change intervals on a street driven vehicle: Conventional Oil - 5000 miles. Synthetic Blend - 7500 miles. Full Synthetic - 10000 miles. Remember that track driven vehicles, or race cars should have their oil changed more often due to extreme temperaures that cars on the street (or even drag cars) will not experience. These extreme temperatures break down the viscosity improvers and some other additives more quickly and decrease the life of the oil. A general rule is every hour of racing on a high performance synthetic = 1000 miles of oil wear. Hopefully this knowledge saves you all some money.  (Mar 8, 2013 | post #1)