It's hard to resist the pull of the river in Belgrade - especially as there are two of them. Serbia's capital sits at the confluence of the Danube and Sava, both of which draw you like a magnet when the sun is out and the temperatures soar.
Walking trails and cycle paths wind past floating bars and restaurants known as splavovi, some of which - come nightfall - are the liveliest nightclubs in Eastern Europe. But you don't have to wait until then to enjoy riverside life: the daytime ambience is relaxed and wonderfully peaceful for a capital city.
A large green section of the western side of the Sava is called Usce, scene of many of Belgrade's summertime festivals including the Belgrade Beer Festival, which is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year.
Over six days, dozens of bands put on free concerts in Usce park, while beer connoisseurs sample the many brews on offer. Serbian lagers such as Jelen easily hold their own against international competition.
Belgrade's old town, Stari Grad, which sits south of the Danube and east of the Sava, is the place to start your walk, specifically the pedestrianised avenue Knez Mihailova. Its handsome 19th-century buildings are filled with shops and cafes, and in the evening it becomes the favourite place for the Balkan version of the passeggiata.
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