It's the Guns, Stupid

Apr 20, 2007 | Posted by: roboblogger | Full story: Truthdig

“And that's the end of the issue”

Why do we have the same futile argument every time there is a mass killing? Advocates of gun control try to open a discussion about whether more reasonable weapons statutes might reduce the number of violent ... via Truthdig

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91,701 - 91,720 of 103,228 Comments Last updated Jun 22, 2014
boo

Moscow, Russia

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#97720
Jan 21, 2013
 
Ducks quack and drakes squawk when handled. It is surprising how many people have not noticed the difference, but you do need to know the sex of the birds when buying. Young ducks, less than four weeks old, scarcely quack. They can only be sexed by vent-sexing which some vendors may be prepared to do. Otherwise you will not know the sexes. By six weeks old, certain colours can be sexed by slight differences in the bill colour and rump feathers. Ducks give a good quack by six weeks of age

Healthy ducks are lively. If you intend to buy a bird, watch its behaviour. It should be keen on eating, have sleek plumage (unless moulting) and a bright eye. Unless very tame, it will not want to be picked up. Once a bird is caught, have a close look at it in your hands. Check its eyes; they should be clear with no opaque growth. The birds should not be suffering from sinus problems (puffy cheeks). The legs should be sound with no hot swelling. Toes should be straight (not crooked).

Do not buy birds which are thin and have a sharp breast bone with little flesh on the breast. They may just need better feeding or worming, but they may have a long-term problem.
boo

Moscow, Russia

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#97721
Jan 21, 2013
 
Introducing new chickens to a flock can be difficult, because the "pecking order" has to be observed. A new hen can be given a tough time by the resident females, and should not be put into a new shed with no escape.

Adult ducks are different. A new female put down in a group of ducks is generally well accepted after a short period of inspection and greeting, and ducks are unlikely to inflict serious damage on each other. Occasionally, males may persistently scrap with one another and then have to be separated.

The exception to good behaviour is where there are too many drakes. Females should never be kept with a lot of drakes. Surplus males are not kept in domestic flocks of animals or birds because they are uneconomical and cause problems.

The same is true of drakes. Two or more males which repeatedly mate the same female are a nuisance and a danger, and need separating, even if this means that surplus males are put in a "drakes-only" pen.

A new female needs to be watched if there is more than one drake in the flock to make sure that she is treated well.

Mating is rather inelegantly but appropriately called "treading." This is a precarious activity without the active consent of the duck. Unfortunately, with too many drakes, the ducks literally get very run down and bedraggled, with the females failing to escape the attentions of the drakes.

Ducks can die in these conditions; they may suffer from damaged eyes and prolapse of the oviduct. Also, too much mating does not do the drakes any good either; they can suffer from prolapse of the penis. So it is best to avoid problems by not keeping too many drakes in the same breeding pen. Although it may take more time and work, ducks should be kept in small groups to safeguard the females.

However, if you only want to keep a flock of drakes as quiet pets, then they will probably get on amicably, as long as they have been brought up together and there are no females around for them to compete over. If you do wish to keep a small colony of pet drakes, introduce them all at the same time, so that they are on equal terms.

Settling down new stock When you arrive home with the new adult birds, put them straight in their new shed to settle down after the journey. Although the ducks should not be fed and watered in their shed on a regular basis it is a good idea to give them a bowl of water with a handful of wheat in it if they have travelled on a hot day. If a bird is suffering from heat stress, put it straight on to water (as long as it cannot escape).

Make sure your ducks are securely penned in a wired run to start with. If they have come from a place with a lot of ducks it may be a bit of a culture shock to move to a two-duck house. Their first instinct will be to find the other ducks. If you have a dog, and the birds are unused to other animals, they will also be upset by the new creature. However good your dog may be with the poultry, the new birds need to get used to the new situation gradually.

Most domesticated ducks cannot fly; they are too heavy. The exceptions are the smaller Call Ducks and Bantam breeds. Ask advice about wing clipping (to prevent the birds flying away) when the birds are bought.

Once they have had a chance to settle in, find out what they like best. They may have already acquired a taste for bread so feeding them a favourite titbit will make them tame. The best way to get them tame is to let them get a bit hungry. Do not leave food out ad lib. Let them associate food with your approach.

And do look after new ducks. Don't dump them on a lake with an island and expect them all to be OK
Dr Freud

UK

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#97722
Jan 21, 2013
 

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Ahomana wrote:
For Petes sake, 85% of people who either are or live with NRA members support background checks.
Seriously, lets do this! The president said Wednesday Congress needs to move quickly. Obama named universal background check legislation as the first bill.
Do eeeeet, do eeeet now.....get them suckers.
A 'background check' needs to be done on YOU!
Right along with a body cavity check!
ARE THERE ANY VOLUNTEERS for that?!?!

Since: Dec 10

Brisbane, Australia

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#97723
Jan 21, 2013
 

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The ADELAIDEAN wrote:
<quoted text>
Do you think he might be ducking the issue?:)
I think he is being re-duckulous....:)
GoGoBar

Bangkok, Thailand

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#97724
Jan 21, 2013
 
After ever increasing multiple slaughters in duckling hatcheries by Tasmanian Devils,in disgust Daffy decides enough is enough and somthing must be done.

But Elma Fudd (and his poison makers) are up to their old tricks. With his trusty gun in hand Elma calls for all ducks to be given MORE of the same steroids as the Tasmanian Devil. But this experiment is unproven and can only make more Tasmanian Devils who are apt to strike anywhere, anytime with any gun.
So the steroid quacks blindly and willfully continue the call to dope the Farm, until the doping agencies force Elma to go on Oprah in contrition.
boo

Moscow, Russia

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#97725
Jan 21, 2013
 
The Small Home Flock
In areas where poultry raising is allowed and space is available, a small flock of ducks can be kept in the yard of a household at a low cost. Except for a brooder, which is needed for the first week or so, the main facilities and equipment needed to get started are a simple structure, such as a partially-enclosed shed, inexpensive fencing, a feed hopper or trough made of wood and a simply constructed watering device. The shelter should be located on a high, well-drained area of the yard. Whenever available, sandy soil is preferable for the duck yard because it drains quickly after a rain. The earth floor of the sheltered area should be bedded with straw, shavings or similarly dry absorbent material. Low fencing (about 61cm) is satisfactory for Pekins, since they do not fly, but not for Muscovies, which are adept to becoming airborne. If predators are a problem at night, the open areas of the shed and pen may have to be covered with inexpensive netting or wire mesh.

Raising Ducks on Open Ponds
Ducks may be kept successfully on open ponds, provided a nearby dry sheltered area is available. Ducks kept on ponds may obtain part of their food from plant and animal life in and around the pond, but supplemental feeding will probably be necessary. In tropical areas it is common to combine duck raising on ponds with fish farming. Ponds are stocked with fish such as Tilapia which are raised for human food. Manure from the ducks provide nutrients for growth of animal and plant life which the fish consume. The number of ducks kept on ponds must be limited to prevent an over-supply of nutrients and overgrowth of plant life which will cause depletion of oxygen in the water and kill the fish. Usually both the ducks and fish are given supplemental feed, which on commercial duck/fish farms is often a nutritionally complete pelleted ration

Since: Dec 10

Brisbane, Australia

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#97726
Jan 21, 2013
 

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Dr Freud wrote:
<quoted text>
A 'background check' needs to be done on YOU!
Right along with a body cavity check!
ARE THERE ANY VOLUNTEERS for that?!?!
More nonsense from the fraudulent doctor Fraud....
boo

Moscow, Russia

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#97727
Jan 21, 2013
 
Brooding
Much of the information on brooding chicks, available in poultry textbooks and other sources (see Publications), can be applied to ducklings. If ducklings are hatched artificially, rather than by a broody duck, the caretaker must provide the newly hatched ducklings with a warm dry brooding area free of drafts, with a source of heat, such as radiant or hover-type gas brooders, and feed and drinking water located near the heat source so that the ducklings learn to drink and eat soon after they are placed in the brooder. If ducklings haven't learn to drink within a few hours, it may be necessary to dip their bills in the drinking water in order to coax them to start drinking. In the case of earth or cement floors, the brooding area should be bedded with clean dry litter such as wood shavings or chopped straw. If drafts are a problem, newspapers may be put down on wire floors for the first few days. Use brooder guards to keep the ducklings confined to the area where the heat, water and feed are located. The brooder guards should allow enough room so that the ducklings can move away from the heat if it gets too warm. See Table 1 for recommended temperatures, which are gradually lowered as the duckling grows. In addition, ducklings should be allowed access to more of the floor area of the pen as they grow older. When outside temperatures are above 70F (21.1C), ducklings can be allowed outdoors part of the day after about 14 days of age.

Optimum temperatures for ducks
At the time of hatching, ducklings require a high temperature of about 86F (30C). They are not yet able to regulate their body temperature and must have supplemental heat such as that provided by a brooder. As they grow older they become better able to produce and conserve heat, and regulate their body temperature. After a duckling is fully covered with feathers and down, they are able to maintain proper body temperature even when the outside temperature is low.
boo

Moscow, Russia

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#97729
Jan 21, 2013
 
Overcrowding ducks can be extremely detrimental to their health, growth or egg production. Providing adequate floorspace at each stage of development is basic to successful duck raising. While undercrowding is not usually a problem, it is better to stock ducks at near the recommended density (see Table 2 below) in cold weather so that body heat will help warm the room in which the ducks are confined.
boo

Moscow, Russia

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#97730
Jan 21, 2013
 
Flooring for ducks
Duck keepers should avoid flooring that will injure the skin covering the feet and hock joints of ducks. The smooth skin of ducks is not as tough (not as cornified) as that of land fowl, and is more susceptible to injury when ducks are confined on surfaces that are too rough, or abrasive. Slats, wire floors or cage bottoms may cause injury to the feet and legs of ducks, unless these surfaces are smooth, non-abrasive, and free of sharp edges. Stones, mixed with the soil covering the duck yards can also cause injury. The detrimental effect of flooring on ducks increases with the age and size of the duck, and the longer ducks are confined to the flooring. The likelihood of injury is greatly reduced if wire occupies no more one-fourth to one-third of the floor area. Properly constructed wire floors are usually a better choice than slats, which can cause leg deformities as well as injury to skin. If wire floors are used, floors for ducklings under 3 weeks should be constructed of 1.9 cm (3/4 inch) mesh, 12-gauge welded wire, attached to a frame designed to keep the wire flat, and minimize manure accumulation. For ducks over 3 weeks, 2.5 cm (1 inch) mesh is best. Vinyl coated wire is preferable, but smooth galvanized wire is satisfactory.
Management of litter and yards
Ducks drink and excrete more water than chickens or turkeys. Their droppings contain over 90% moisture. It is therefore necessary to take extra measures to maintain litter floors inside sheltered areas in a dry condition. This will require regular addition of fresh bedding, on top of the bedding that has become soiled or wet, and when necessary, cleaning out the old litter and replacing it with fresh litter. Under semi-confinement growing, in which case ducklings spend most of their time outdoors during the day (after the first 3 weeks), waterers should be located outside, as far away from the house as possible. This will reducing tracking water to the litter. During periods when temperatures drop below freezing, water must be provided indoors. Duck yards should be maintained in a clean condition by removing the upper few inches of soil and replacing it with clean soil (preferably sand) whenever necessary.
Feeders and feeding space
Most feeders used for other poultry, are satisfactory for ducks, provided sufficient room is allowed for the larger bill of ducks and their "shoveling" eating motion. If ducks are hand fed, simple trough feeders work fine. If feed hoppers are used, they should be constructed so that feed will slide down freely into the bottom of the hopper as feed is consumed. Providing an apron in front of the feeding area, for catching feed that is dropped or billed out, will reduce feed wastage. During their early stages of growth, ducklings eat frequently, much like chickens. As they grow older they are able to store increasing amounts of feed in their esophagus at each feeding, and thus need to eat less frequently. By about four weeks of age, Pekin ducks can easily consume 100 grams or more of pellets at a single feeding. It is important to provide about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of feeder space per duck for about the first 3 weeks. Afterwards this can be gradually reduced to about half this amount so long as there is no crowding at the feed hoppers. Developing breeders that are being fed an allotted amount of feed each day should be allowed plenty of feeding space so that all birds can eat at once, which requires about 4 inches (10 cm) of linear space per duck.
Tm Clmns

Victoria, Canada

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#97731
Jan 21, 2013
 

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deport fat losers wrote:
<quoted text>
Yeah become a retard like the Canadian population eh with that stupid curling game with brooms. eh
That will be fun eh
Come and watch the annual paint drying festival in Winnipeg you hoser.
Man are you really from Ukraine...??

go get drunk... and take more Russian language lessons.

You probably can't even understand curling..

Since: Dec 10

Brisbane, Australia

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#97732
Jan 21, 2013
 
Why does Donald Duck wear a towel when he comes out of the shower, when he doesn't usually wear any pants?

Could this be Boo...a low IQ duck famer/hunter.....WARNING....th is could be distressing for animal lovers...Hunters are right!

http://news.sky.com/story/835388/exclusive-fa...
The Fixers

San Jose, CA

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#97733
Jan 21, 2013
 

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The ADELAIDEAN wrote:
<quoted text>
Do you think he might be ducking the issue?:)
NO ONE CARES ABOUT INSANE Sasquatch IndoMauritian MalBarCACA TOPIX PAID TROLLS, SPAMMERS, REAL AGITATORS and ANARCHISTs

DO NOT EVER SHOW YOUR UGLY LUNATIC hide my ASS! FILTHY DISGUSTING IndoMauritian MalBarCACA IMPOSTOR MUG HERE AGAIN.

http://www.themelbourneclinic.com.au/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Embling_ ...

http://www.forensicare.vic.gov.au/default.asp ...

GET LOST FUDDIHEAD IndoMauritian MalBARCACA IMPOSTOR YOU ARE NOT WANTED HERE.
boo

Moscow, Russia

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#97734
Jan 21, 2013
 
Waterers for ducks (see also Water)
Waterers designed for chickens and turkeys are usually satisfactory for ducks, as long as the size of the duck's bill is considered. Trough, can or jar-type waterers can be used so long as the drinking area is wide enough (at least 4 cm) for the duck to submerge its bill. The same requirement applies to automatic trough, cup or Plasson waterers. Nipple waterers, if properly adjusted for the duck's height, are also satisfactory. If waterers are located indoors where the floor is bedded with litter, waterers should be located on a wire-mesh screen to reduce wetting of the litter. In commercial duck houses it is usually advisable to construct a cement floor drain underneath the water screens. For starting and growing ducks, provide a minimum of about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of linear watering space per duck. Increase this to 2 inches (5.0 cm) per duck for developing and laying breeders. If nipple waterers are used, provide 15 nipples per 100 ducks for starting and growing ducks and 20 nipples/100 ducks for developing and laying breeders. Starting ducklings should always have access to watering cans, jars or troughs until they have learned to drink from nipple waterers.

Ventilation
Duck houses or shelters for small flocks usually do not require mechanical ventilation as used in modern commercial duck buildings. However some ventilation is always necessary when ducks are kept in a house enclosed on all sides. Window openings, and ridge ventilation may provide adequate air exchange. If larger flocks are kept in totally enclosed houses, the use of ventilation fans may be necessary. Proper ventilation of commercial duck buildings requires the expertise of an agricultural engineer or someone with knowledge and experience in designing and ventilating poultry buildings. Modern duck buildings must be adequately insulated for ventilations systems to work properly. Ventilation systems for ducks should deliver a minimum of 0.2 cfm/lb duck weight at .05 inches (water gauge) static pressure and a maximum ventilation rate (when temperatures are above the desired point) of 0.8 cfm/lb duck weight at .02 inches static pressure.
boo

Moscow, Russia

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#97735
Jan 21, 2013
 
Lighting
The length of the laying period of ducks can be increased considerably if supplemental lighting is provided. If supplemental light is not provided, egg production will be seasonal and dependent on changes in natural daylength. Adding artificial light to extend the daily light period to 14-17 hours, and preventing any decrease in day length, will provide adequate light stimulation for ducks to lay continuously for 7-12 months, depending upon their ability to lay, and other conditions. If ducks are confined to a building at night and allowed outdoors during the day (or if confined to non-lightproof housing), the usual practice is to turn artificial lights on at a set time before sunrise, off at a set time after sunrise, then on again before sunset and off after sunset, maintaining a constant light period (14 hours, for example) and a constant dark period (10 hours in this case) each day. Such a lighting regimen is usually implemented with the aid of electric time clocks that turn lights on and off at set times. A light intensity of about 10 lux (1 foot candle) at the duck's eye level is sufficient to stimulate adequate sexual response in both drakes and ducks. In practice, however, breeding and laying ducks are commonly lit to provide 20-30 lux at duck level. Artificial lighting is less important for growing ducks. Ducks are nocturnal, and can find feed and water in the dark. However artificial light is important the first few days to assist ducklings in getting started drinking and eating. Totally confined ducks being grown-out for marketing, as in commercial production, are usually provided some light every day. It is also beneficial to provide dim light by means of low wattage bulbs during dark periods to help prevent stampeding if the flock is disturbed and to discourage feather pecking. During the development period of breeder-layer ducks, it is desirable to avoid either increases or decreases in day-length as much as possible. A recent publication entitled Poultry Lighting by UK scientist Dr. Peter Lewis and Dr. Trevor Morris (see Publications on Ducks and Related Publications) reviews research demonstrating excellent laying performance of Pekin ducks given a constant light regimen of 17 hours/day throughout rearing and laying. It is recommended that this resource be consulted for more information on lighting ducks.
boo

Moscow, Russia

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#97736
Jan 21, 2013
 
Waterers for ducks (see also Water)
Waterers designed for chickens and turkeys are usually satisfactory for ducks, as long as the size of the duck's bill is considered. Trough, can or jar-type waterers can be used so long as the drinking area is wide enough (at least 4 cm) for the duck to submerge its bill. The same requirement applies to automatic trough, cup or Plasson waterers. Nipple waterers, if properly adjusted for the duck's height, are also satisfactory. If waterers are located indoors where the floor is bedded with litter, waterers should be located on a wire-mesh screen to reduce wetting of the litter. In commercial duck houses it is usually advisable to construct a cement floor drain underneath the water screens. For starting and growing ducks, provide a minimum of about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of linear watering space per duck. Increase this to 2 inches (5.0 cm) per duck for developing and laying breeders. If nipple waterers are used, provide 15 nipples per 100 ducks for starting and growing ducks and 20 nipples/100 ducks for developing and laying breeders. Starting ducklings should always have access to watering cans, jars or troughs until they have learned to drink from nipple waterers.

Ventilation
Duck houses or shelters for small flocks usually do not require mechanical ventilation as used in modern commercial duck buildings. However some ventilation is always necessary when ducks are kept in a house enclosed on all sides. Window openings, and ridge ventilation may provide adequate air exchange. If larger flocks are kept in totally enclosed houses, the use of ventilation fans may be necessary. Proper ventilation of commercial duck buildings requires the expertise of an agricultural engineer or someone with knowledge and experience in designing and ventilating poultry buildings. Modern duck buildings must be adequately insulated for ventilations systems to work properly. Ventilation systems for ducks should deliver a minimum of 0.2 cfm/lb duck weight at .05 inches (water gauge) static pressure and a maximum ventilation rate (when temperatures are above the desired point) of 0.8 cfm/lb duck weight at .02 inches static pressure
boo

Moscow, Russia

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#97737
Jan 21, 2013
 
The Duck Laboratory came into existence in 1949 as a result of a working relationship between duck producers on Long Island and Cornell University. At that time, very little scientific research was being carried out on ducks. In contrast, a considerable amount of research was being conducted at a number of universities on chicken and turkey production. The relatively small size of the duck industry in the United States, compared to the chicken and turkey industries, placed the duck industry at a decided disadvantage in obtaining financial support for research. To help overcome this obstacle, the duck growers made a commitment to pay a large portion of the cost of research themselves through the payment of dues and fees. An agreement between Cornell University, and what was soon to become the Long Island Duck Research Cooperative was reached to establish and operate a duck laboratory at Eastport, New York. The laboratory initially operated in a rented building in Eastport. Construction of the present research facility on a 75 acre tract of land in Eastport began in 1955.
boo

Moscow, Russia

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#97738
Jan 21, 2013
 
As duck production grew in other parts of North America, participation in the laboratory by duck producers located outside of New York increased, and many of these producers helped support the laboratory financially. In addition duck producers in Canada and other countries as well became supporters of the duck laboratory. In order to reflect its diverse makeup the name of the research cooperative was changed to the International Duck Research Cooperative (IDRC) in 1992

Diagnostic Laboratory Service
The Duck Laboratory is equipped to run all tests necessary to accurately diagnose diseases of ducks. Experienced duck disease specialists are on staff who can advise growers on the best methods of treatment and control. Testing includes isolation, identification and serotyping of causative agents due to the fact that successful prevention and treatment is often contingent upon up-to-date information on the serotypes responsible for a given disease problem on a particular farm. Monitoring the level of disease protection (antibody) present in breeders and their progeny is another service provided by the lab that pertains to the control of diseases such as duck viral hepatitis. In addition to ducks, all other major species of poultry, pet birds, and wild and captive fowl of all kinds are accepted for examination
boo

Moscow, Russia

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#97739
Jan 21, 2013
 
Recognizing the need for assistance in solving problems related to producing healthy ducks , American duck growers on Long Island, in the late 1940's, petitioned Cornell University for assistance in conducting scientifically based research on diseases, nutrition and management of ducks, and other related areas, and providing services not available elsewhere. The Deans of the Colleges of Veterinary Medicine and Agriculture at Cornell responded favorably by establishing a working relationship with what was later to become the Long Island Duck Research Cooperative. As a result, the Duck Research Laboratory was established on Eastern Long Island at Eastport, New York in 1949.

The research and service programs are administered by Cornell through a local laboratory director working under the advisement of the research cooperative board of directors. The research is conducted by Cornell scientists located at the Long Island facility. Service programs, such as biologics production and distribution, diagnostic services and consultation are also carried out by the local laboratory staff. Members of the research cooperative help support the laboratory financially by paying membership dues and fees on the biologics they use.

Although originally formed by Long Island duck producers, membership in the research cooperative expanded over the years to include duck producers (and other types of duck keepers and feed manufacturers as well) located in other states, and other countries. In order to reflect its diverse membership, the name of the cooperative was changed in 1992 to the International Duck Research Cooperative (IDRC).

Membership
Presently, two types of membership in the cooperative are recognized; (1) Regular members (commercial duck producers) and (2) Contributing members (mainly duck feed manufacturers, other types of duck keepers and friends of the duck laboratory).

How to Become a Member of the IDRC
Parties interested in becoming either a regular or contributing member of the International Duck Research Cooperative should contact Dr. Tirath Sandhu.
boo

Moscow, Russia

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#97740
Jan 21, 2013
 
From ancient times domestic ducks have served as a source of food and income for people in many parts of the world. Ducks are a source of meat, eggs and down-feathers (for making bedding and warm jackets). Ducks are able to subsist and grow to maturity on relatively simple diets, based on locally available feedstuffs. Duck meat and duck eggs are good dietary sources of high quality protein, energy and several vitamins and minerals. When properly included as part of a well balanced daily diet, duck meat and eggs can supply a substantial portion of the nutrients required by humans. Ducks may be raised in small or large flocks. A small flock of ducks may be kept by a household as a supplemental source of food or income. A small flock of ducks can be established at low cost. A higher investment is required to establish larger, or commercial flocks, which require better buildings, equipment and feeds. However, greater income, supporting several families may be realized if a large flock is properly managed.

Domestic ducks fall into the following major genetic classifications:

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