It's the Guns, Stupid

It's the Guns, Stupid

There are 103340 comments on the Truthdig story from Apr 20, 2007, titled It's the Guns, Stupid. In it, Truthdig reports that:

“And that's the end of the issue”

Why do we have the same futile argument every time there is a mass killing? Advocates of gun control try to open a discussion about whether more reasonable weapons statutes might reduce the number of violent ... via Truthdig

Join the discussion below, or Read more at Truthdig.

GoGoBar

Bangkok, Thailand

#97707 Jan 21, 2013
Daffy duck seems to be in favour over donald duck in the ratings. Nobody can work out what donald is saying wheras "The little black duck" has a clear voice.
The Fixers

San Jose, CA

#97708 Jan 21, 2013
boo wrote:
Raising Ducklings and Feeding
House in a water-proof cage with cleanable surfaces.
Line with paper or shavings that can be cleaned daily
Provide a heat source for warmth and room in the cage so they can move away if too hot.
Provide water that is deep enough for the ducklings to duck their bill up to nostril level for cleaning. Must be shallow enough for the ducklings to exit. Replace twice daily.
Ducklings are very active at night so keep them somewhere where they wont disturb household sleep patterns.
Ducklings are quite fragile so supervise visits with small children
Feed on a meet-bird starter then switch to a meat-bird growing ration around 6 weeks of age (higher protein content than chicken starters). At 15+ weeks switch to a standard layer feed
Have an outside coop ready by the time they are 4 weeks (they grow very quickly)
Ducks love greens and are very happy free-ranging for invertebrates in the garden
Coop & Run Design
Ducks usually lay eggs on the ground so need a suitable bedding (such as straw or chip) to make a nest
They usually sleep on the ground, though some breeds such as Muscovies roost.
During the warmer months they are happy to sleep outside (in an enclosed run) but in winter will need some shelter.
The coop will need an ‘easy-to-clean’ flooring (such as bark chip, earth or straw). Line the run with a deep layer or bark mulch to help reduce odor and aid in drainage
Water must be deep enough to duck their heads, in order to keep their nostrils clear. Whatever water is provided will be fouled very quickly. You must consider how to keep water unfrozen in winter (an electric heated water bucket or daily top-ups). If the ducks have water in which they can swim, an exit ramp must be provided (after excess time in the water their feathers become waterlogged and they can drown. If you see your ducks swimming low in the water, this is the reason)
Ducks and chickens can cohabit though you may have to separate them if the ducks pester the hens excessively. My drake beats-up the chickens if left in the same run throughout the ducks laying season but is very friendly for the rest of the year. Consider this when designing the coop and run.
Excellent new name Good Aussies.

Coop and run.
boo

Moscow, Russia

#97709 Jan 21, 2013
My wife objected to me getting ducks as pets, until she saw Call Ducks. This year we got a pair and they are raising some ducklings. Learn more about Call Ducks and keeping them as pets.

The best place to purchase any type of pet is always from a breeder. Breeders can be found by contacting local waterfowl bird clubs. If you are unfamiliar of any in your area talk to the people at your local livestock feed store and keep an eye on their bulletin boards for signs of bird shows and sales. Failing this some areas have auctions for birds and waterfowl. Again the people at the feed store might know more or you can contact the livestock auction markets and ask if they have bird auctions. In my area there are three auction markets that run such auctions, each having two auctions a year. Caution should be used when purchasing from an auction, always walk around earlier and look in the boxes to check the birds for signs of health, and age (some sellers will write the age on the box).



Cost will vary depending on the supply and demand in your area. You should try to get a mated pair if possible as ducks do mate for life this will get you off to a better start if breeding is your goal. Get no more than two females per male.

Because of their small size Call Ducks may be safer from predators (foxes and hawks) if kept in a contained space. Stucco wire with 2 inch squares works well, but chicken wire can also be used. If you are going to be hatching ducklings, be sure the lower portion of the area is fenced with something the little ones cannot walk through. Within their space they need an area for swimming, a kids swimming pool or livestock feed bowl work well. They should also have a proper shelter of some sort, even a dog house will work, this needs to be bedded with straw, and facing away from the winds. Their environment should be interesting, with grass, logs, a shrub or two, and rocks. Keeping them in an enclosed area will mean they cannot fly off, if you are going to let your ducks roam, be sure to contain them for at least two weeks so they know where their home (and food) is. The enclosed space should be at least 10 ft x 10 ft which will house 1 pair of ducks and their young ducklings (larger is always better). If it is sloping to allow water to run away that is even better.
more

Santa Fe, NM

#97710 Jan 21, 2013
Patriot wrote:
EXERCISE YOUR UNALIENABLE RIGHTS WITH RESPECT FOR OTHERS
AND NEVER LET PEOPLE IN GOVERNMENT DEPRIVE YOU OF THEM!
"There exists a law, not written down anywhere, but in our hearts; a law which comes to us not by training or custom or reading; a law which has come to us not from theory but from practice; not by instruction but by natural intuition: I refer to the law which lays it down that, if our lives are endangered by plots or violence or armed robbers or enemies, any and every method of protecting ourselves is morally right." -
Marcus Tullius Cicero (106 BC-43 BC) Roman Orator and Statesman at the trial of T. Annius Milo in 52 BC
----
"It is a just person who disobeys an unjust law."
Plato (427-347 BC)
----
"Tyranny derives from the oligarchy's mistrust of the people; hence they deprive them of arms, ill-treat the lower class, and keep them from residing in the capital. These are common to oligarchy and tyranny."
Aristotle in Politics (J. Sinclair translation, pg. 218, 1962)
----
"It is also in the interests of a tyrant to keep his people poor, so that they may not be able to afford the cost of protecting themselves by arms and be so occupied with their daily tasks that they have no time for rebellion."
Aristotle in Politics (J. Sinclair translation, pg. 226, 1962)
----
He said to them, "But now if you have a purse, take it, and also a bag; and if you don't have a sword, sell your cloak and buy one." Jesus of Nazareth, Luke 22:36
http://www.unalienable.com/
Regarding your Right to acquire and enjoy property:
http://www.idahopress.com/opinion/bestread/pr...
http://nstarzone.com/PTAX.html
spam
boo

Moscow, Russia

#97711 Jan 21, 2013
Your local livestock feed store will have a feed mix for ducks, and another for ducklings if you should have some. It is important to note that under no circumstances should ducks be fed started food for chicks. This food has penicillin in it which will kill ducks. They need access to their food at all time. You can also offer washed romaine lettuce, but not other kinds of lettuce. You will note your ducks eating grass, dandelions, and insects, as such you never want to use chemical herbicides or pesticides.

They should also have access to grit for aiding digestion. Even though ducks can drink from their pond this water will soon be muddy so a proper waterer should be provided.

Some people clip the wings of their birds to prevent flight and if you wish to do so (I do not do this) you should have somebody show you how so you do not injure the bird by cutting the wrong feathers.

You can discuss vaccination and health care needs with a veterinarian in your area

Call Ducks have excellent nesting and mothering skills. She will typically lay a clutch of 10-18 eggs and will start sitting on them, typically not all will hatch, but those that do will hatch out 28 days later. The mother will come off the eggs for only brief times each day so it is important she have food at easy access. When the ducklings hatch they will follow their mother who will protectively hide them away from viewing.
Care should be taken when you have new hatchlings. They want to swim but their feathers are not water proof and they can drown. In fact this happened to one of my own ducks ducklings. Instead I suggest filling a low rimmed container, such as a baking dish for making brownies, with water, and placing in a few rocks for them to climb up on. Be sure your regular water is unaccessible to them or fill it with large rocks that can be removed after a 10 days. I like to leave a rock or two in there regularly anyhow as the ducks do enjoy standing on the rocks.



I also want to note that once a year the males will moult and for a short period of time may have feathers the color of the females.
GoGoBar

Bangkok, Thailand

#97713 Jan 21, 2013
Donald Duck's cartoon script is a rewrite of the Orwellian theme 1948.
The little black duck's cartoon is a total revamp of the Orwellian Farm scenario which has a much happier ending when the pigs in top hats are finally outed.
boo

Moscow, Russia

#97714 Jan 21, 2013
I SOMETIMES wonder why on earth do people keep ducks? They need more space than chickens, eat more food, and mess up the land in winter. In spring, rampaging drakes drive me mad.

But they have lots of advantages over poultry. Ducks happily live outside in all weathers; their housing is cheaper than a chicken house; they can be easily confined in their breeding pens; and they have a lot of sense. Show ducks where to go once or twice, and they will remember what you want them to do next time. That's why they are used to train sheep dogs. Imagine doing sheepdog demonstrations at a show with chickens!


Before buying any new stock, there are several things one should always consider: How much time have you got to look after the ducks? Do you have enough space and water to keep them? What happens when you are on holiday? And what arrangements can you make when you are back late and cannot shut them up? Livestock is always a big responsibility and, like any other animal, ducks should not be bought without considerable forethought about their safety and welfare.

When choosing to keep ducks, it is also very important to start with the right breed.

If you only want ducks for fun - not for eggs or for the table - then the smaller domestic ducks such as Call Ducks and Miniature Appleyards are cheaper to keep than the larger birds. Their appetite is smaller and, of course, they require less space.
boo

Moscow, Russia

#97715 Jan 21, 2013
These little ducks are kept as pets and as show birds, Calls ducks especially for the array of colour varieties. They are generally poor layers, however, but great characters. Miniature Appleyards can be good layers and sitters and, in fact, are useful all-round birds.

The larger ducks range in size from 2-2.5 kg (4-5 lbs) in the Khaki Campbell to 4-5 kg (9-12lbs) in the exhibition Aylesbury and Rouen. Khaki Campbells are the world's best egg layers and, if eggs are your requirement, this is the breed to keep. In the middle-weight range are the "dual purpose" birds. These are large enough to provide reasonable carcasses for the table, but they can also lay 150-200 eggs per year. They include breeds such as the Blue Swedish, Buff Orpington and Silver Appleyard. At the "heavy weight" end are the Rouen and the real Aylesbury. These lay fewer eggs and were originally developed almost purely as table birds. Today, the larger breeds are kept mainly for exhibition purposes. By necessity, to keep the breed characteristics, the gene pools of pure breeds are restricted.

If the ducks are to be primarily commercial, then a pure breed may not be required. See previous articles in Smallholder 2005 on table ducks and laying strains.

The bigger breeds obviously need more space. The amount of land will depend upon the size of the breed and its habits, the type of soil in the area and your strength of preference for ducks or a tidy garden. Four average-size ducks might be all right on a patch of land about five metres square (25 square metres) minimum, but this will depend very much on the type of soil and the availability of water. On free-draining sandy soils or limestone, there may be no problem. On clay soil in winter there could be quite a mess. If the birds have access to clean water flowing through their space, then the stocking density can be much higher than with limited water.
boo

Moscow, Russia

#97716 Jan 21, 2013
Traditionally, ducks have been reared in areas with gravely river bottoms and sandy soils. There is a good reason for this: ducks do make a mess on water-logged clay soils where the beak is able to probe the soft soil for worms very easily. Ducks also stay healthier and free of leg infections on a free-draining soil.

If confined, ducks can destroy a patch of grass very quickly in wet weather. Big birds do this faster than Call ducks which is why Calls are better for gardens. If you do have plenty of space, or the ducks are required to forage in the vegetable garden for slugs anyway, then there is little problem. If you only have a small space and want the duck area to be tidy, then you may have to invest in making a gravel pen where mud cannot be puddled.

There is no problem with ducks in dry weather and in the summer when the ground is not moist for very long and the grass repairs itself quickly. In a particularly wet spell in winter, the birds may be best confined to a small gravel, or concrete, area or a stable to prevent then doing their worst.
The Fixers

San Jose, CA

#97717 Jan 21, 2013
boo wrote:
These little ducks are kept as pets and as show birds, Calls ducks especially for the array of colour varieties. They are generally poor layers, however, but great characters. Miniature Appleyards can be good layers and sitters and, in fact, are useful all-round birds.
The larger ducks range in size from 2-2.5 kg (4-5 lbs) in the Khaki Campbell to 4-5 kg (9-12lbs) in the exhibition Aylesbury and Rouen. Khaki Campbells are the world's best egg layers and, if eggs are your requirement, this is the breed to keep. In the middle-weight range are the "dual purpose" birds. These are large enough to provide reasonable carcasses for the table, but they can also lay 150-200 eggs per year. They include breeds such as the Blue Swedish, Buff Orpington and Silver Appleyard. At the "heavy weight" end are the Rouen and the real Aylesbury. These lay fewer eggs and were originally developed almost purely as table birds. Today, the larger breeds are kept mainly for exhibition purposes. By necessity, to keep the breed characteristics, the gene pools of pure breeds are restricted.
If the ducks are to be primarily commercial, then a pure breed may not be required. See previous articles in Smallholder 2005 on table ducks and laying strains.
The bigger breeds obviously need more space. The amount of land will depend upon the size of the breed and its habits, the type of soil in the area and your strength of preference for ducks or a tidy garden. Four average-size ducks might be all right on a patch of land about five metres square (25 square metres) minimum, but this will depend very much on the type of soil and the availability of water. On free-draining sandy soils or limestone, there may be no problem. On clay soil in winter there could be quite a mess. If the birds have access to clean water flowing through their space, then the stocking density can be much higher than with limited water.
Feeding Indian Runners^^^^^^ boo Good Aussies

One of the first things new duck keepers want to know is:'What do ducks eat?' There isn’t a simple answer: the diet varies depending on the time of year and the conditions under which your birds are kept. If ducks are genuinely free-range they will find most of their own food. This will include a lot of slugs and worms and insects found in the grass, stream and garden. Their diet will also include greens, such as grass and duck-weed. Birds fed like this will have tight, glossy feathers and a bright orange beak (in the orange/yellow billed breeds). This bright colour comes from natural substances found in greens. However, most of us cannot allow our birds such liberty for fear of foxes. Also, even free-range birds do not mind being offered food from bags, especially to fill up before a long winter night.

“REFUSE ALL IMITATIONS!!”

Since: Jan 11

Hampton Park, Australia

#97719 Jan 21, 2013
Ahomana wrote:
<quoted text>
You have nothing of note to say about the topic at hand it is about guns NOT ducks dummy....ROTFLMFAO..
Do you think he might be ducking the issue?:)
boo

Moscow, Russia

#97720 Jan 21, 2013
Ducks quack and drakes squawk when handled. It is surprising how many people have not noticed the difference, but you do need to know the sex of the birds when buying. Young ducks, less than four weeks old, scarcely quack. They can only be sexed by vent-sexing which some vendors may be prepared to do. Otherwise you will not know the sexes. By six weeks old, certain colours can be sexed by slight differences in the bill colour and rump feathers. Ducks give a good quack by six weeks of age

Healthy ducks are lively. If you intend to buy a bird, watch its behaviour. It should be keen on eating, have sleek plumage (unless moulting) and a bright eye. Unless very tame, it will not want to be picked up. Once a bird is caught, have a close look at it in your hands. Check its eyes; they should be clear with no opaque growth. The birds should not be suffering from sinus problems (puffy cheeks). The legs should be sound with no hot swelling. Toes should be straight (not crooked).

Do not buy birds which are thin and have a sharp breast bone with little flesh on the breast. They may just need better feeding or worming, but they may have a long-term problem.
boo

Moscow, Russia

#97721 Jan 21, 2013
Introducing new chickens to a flock can be difficult, because the "pecking order" has to be observed. A new hen can be given a tough time by the resident females, and should not be put into a new shed with no escape.

Adult ducks are different. A new female put down in a group of ducks is generally well accepted after a short period of inspection and greeting, and ducks are unlikely to inflict serious damage on each other. Occasionally, males may persistently scrap with one another and then have to be separated.

The exception to good behaviour is where there are too many drakes. Females should never be kept with a lot of drakes. Surplus males are not kept in domestic flocks of animals or birds because they are uneconomical and cause problems.

The same is true of drakes. Two or more males which repeatedly mate the same female are a nuisance and a danger, and need separating, even if this means that surplus males are put in a "drakes-only" pen.

A new female needs to be watched if there is more than one drake in the flock to make sure that she is treated well.

Mating is rather inelegantly but appropriately called "treading." This is a precarious activity without the active consent of the duck. Unfortunately, with too many drakes, the ducks literally get very run down and bedraggled, with the females failing to escape the attentions of the drakes.

Ducks can die in these conditions; they may suffer from damaged eyes and prolapse of the oviduct. Also, too much mating does not do the drakes any good either; they can suffer from prolapse of the penis. So it is best to avoid problems by not keeping too many drakes in the same breeding pen. Although it may take more time and work, ducks should be kept in small groups to safeguard the females.

However, if you only want to keep a flock of drakes as quiet pets, then they will probably get on amicably, as long as they have been brought up together and there are no females around for them to compete over. If you do wish to keep a small colony of pet drakes, introduce them all at the same time, so that they are on equal terms.

Settling down new stock When you arrive home with the new adult birds, put them straight in their new shed to settle down after the journey. Although the ducks should not be fed and watered in their shed on a regular basis it is a good idea to give them a bowl of water with a handful of wheat in it if they have travelled on a hot day. If a bird is suffering from heat stress, put it straight on to water (as long as it cannot escape).

Make sure your ducks are securely penned in a wired run to start with. If they have come from a place with a lot of ducks it may be a bit of a culture shock to move to a two-duck house. Their first instinct will be to find the other ducks. If you have a dog, and the birds are unused to other animals, they will also be upset by the new creature. However good your dog may be with the poultry, the new birds need to get used to the new situation gradually.

Most domesticated ducks cannot fly; they are too heavy. The exceptions are the smaller Call Ducks and Bantam breeds. Ask advice about wing clipping (to prevent the birds flying away) when the birds are bought.

Once they have had a chance to settle in, find out what they like best. They may have already acquired a taste for bread so feeding them a favourite titbit will make them tame. The best way to get them tame is to let them get a bit hungry. Do not leave food out ad lib. Let them associate food with your approach.

And do look after new ducks. Don't dump them on a lake with an island and expect them all to be OK
Dr Freud

UK

#97722 Jan 21, 2013
Ahomana wrote:
For Pete’s sake, 85% of people who either are or live with NRA members support background checks.
Seriously, let’s do this! The president said Wednesday Congress needs to move quickly. Obama named universal background check legislation as the first bill.
Do eeeeet, do eeeet now.....get them suckers.
A 'background check' needs to be done on YOU!
Right along with a body cavity check!
ARE THERE ANY VOLUNTEERS for that?!?!

Since: Dec 10

Brisbane, Australia

#97723 Jan 21, 2013
The ADELAIDEAN wrote:
<quoted text>
Do you think he might be ducking the issue?:)
I think he is being re-duckulous....:)
GoGoBar

Bangkok, Thailand

#97724 Jan 21, 2013
After ever increasing multiple slaughters in duckling hatcheries by Tasmanian Devils,in disgust Daffy decides enough is enough and somthing must be done.

But Elma Fudd (and his poison makers) are up to their old tricks. With his trusty gun in hand Elma calls for all ducks to be given MORE of the same steroids as the Tasmanian Devil. But this experiment is unproven and can only make more Tasmanian Devils who are apt to strike anywhere, anytime with any gun.
So the steroid quacks blindly and willfully continue the call to dope the Farm, until the doping agencies force Elma to go on Oprah in contrition.
boo

Moscow, Russia

#97725 Jan 21, 2013
The Small Home Flock
In areas where poultry raising is allowed and space is available, a small flock of ducks can be kept in the yard of a household at a low cost. Except for a brooder, which is needed for the first week or so, the main facilities and equipment needed to get started are a simple structure, such as a partially-enclosed shed, inexpensive fencing, a feed hopper or trough made of wood and a simply constructed watering device. The shelter should be located on a high, well-drained area of the yard. Whenever available, sandy soil is preferable for the duck yard because it drains quickly after a rain. The earth floor of the sheltered area should be bedded with straw, shavings or similarly dry absorbent material. Low fencing (about 61cm) is satisfactory for Pekins, since they do not fly, but not for Muscovies, which are adept to becoming airborne. If predators are a problem at night, the open areas of the shed and pen may have to be covered with inexpensive netting or wire mesh.

Raising Ducks on Open Ponds
Ducks may be kept successfully on open ponds, provided a nearby dry sheltered area is available. Ducks kept on ponds may obtain part of their food from plant and animal life in and around the pond, but supplemental feeding will probably be necessary. In tropical areas it is common to combine duck raising on ponds with fish farming. Ponds are stocked with fish such as Tilapia which are raised for human food. Manure from the ducks provide nutrients for growth of animal and plant life which the fish consume. The number of ducks kept on ponds must be limited to prevent an over-supply of nutrients and overgrowth of plant life which will cause depletion of oxygen in the water and kill the fish. Usually both the ducks and fish are given supplemental feed, which on commercial duck/fish farms is often a nutritionally complete pelleted ration

Since: Dec 10

Brisbane, Australia

#97726 Jan 21, 2013
Dr Freud wrote:
<quoted text>
A 'background check' needs to be done on YOU!
Right along with a body cavity check!
ARE THERE ANY VOLUNTEERS for that?!?!
More nonsense from the fraudulent doctor Fraud....
boo

Moscow, Russia

#97727 Jan 21, 2013
Brooding
Much of the information on brooding chicks, available in poultry textbooks and other sources (see Publications), can be applied to ducklings. If ducklings are hatched artificially, rather than by a broody duck, the caretaker must provide the newly hatched ducklings with a warm dry brooding area free of drafts, with a source of heat, such as radiant or hover-type gas brooders, and feed and drinking water located near the heat source so that the ducklings learn to drink and eat soon after they are placed in the brooder. If ducklings haven't learn to drink within a few hours, it may be necessary to dip their bills in the drinking water in order to coax them to start drinking. In the case of earth or cement floors, the brooding area should be bedded with clean dry litter such as wood shavings or chopped straw. If drafts are a problem, newspapers may be put down on wire floors for the first few days. Use brooder guards to keep the ducklings confined to the area where the heat, water and feed are located. The brooder guards should allow enough room so that the ducklings can move away from the heat if it gets too warm. See Table 1 for recommended temperatures, which are gradually lowered as the duckling grows. In addition, ducklings should be allowed access to more of the floor area of the pen as they grow older. When outside temperatures are above 70°F (21.1°C), ducklings can be allowed outdoors part of the day after about 14 days of age.

Optimum temperatures for ducks
At the time of hatching, ducklings require a high temperature of about 86°F (30°C). They are not yet able to regulate their body temperature and must have supplemental heat such as that provided by a brooder. As they grow older they become better able to produce and conserve heat, and regulate their body temperature. After a duckling is fully covered with feathers and down, they are able to maintain proper body temperature even when the outside temperature is low.
boo

Moscow, Russia

#97729 Jan 21, 2013
Overcrowding ducks can be extremely detrimental to their health, growth or egg production. Providing adequate floorspace at each stage of development is basic to successful duck raising. While undercrowding is not usually a problem, it is better to stock ducks at near the recommended density (see Table 2 below) in cold weather so that body heat will help warm the room in which the ducks are confined.

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