Kawasaki ZL600 Eliminator stalling ou...

Kawasaki ZL600 Eliminator stalling out at mid to high RPM help?

Since: Feb 09

Lacombe, LA

#1 Feb 8, 2009
I have a 1996 Kawasaki ZL 600 Eliminator. It is stalling aout at the mid to high rpm's. Carburetors have been soaked and blown out with air, they are really, really clean. Very high idle on choke, won't idle with choke completely off. Any help would be great.
ollie

Wisbech, UK

#2 Mar 16, 2009
Hi. I have just restored a 1997 zl600 eliminator and it runs fine once off choke but from cold when i pull the choke out it srcreams so high i have to immediately push it in. It then stalls as it is too cold. I have tried everywhere to find out what this is with no help from anyone. As the throttle advance is not manually operated i can't possibly see why its wrong or how to remedy it so if you find PLEASE let me know. its really annoying isnt it? olly from southend, essex. uk
Mike

Saint Petersburg, FL

#3 Mar 18, 2009
It is possible that there are leaks at the carb holders. Find the leaks, set the float levels, sync the carbs and the problem will most likely be solved.
Eamo

Dublin, Ireland

#4 Mar 10, 2010
I have a zl600 with the same issue, i had dropped to my mechanic after a trip around europe without a single issue and has never run right since. Have any of you found a remidy? I will tell you this it is not an ignition or fuel flow from the tank problem. Since the engine rvs up under choke it must be unable to draw the fuel from the carb in normal running conditions.
n2sandcars

Poway, CA

#5 Feb 5, 2011
I have the same issue with my 1996 ZL 600. Won't Idle , I have cleaned carbs.
I have heard the petcock diapham can cause this problem.
Any other advise?
Please email me [email protected]

\
Eamo wrote:
I have a zl600 with the same issue, i had dropped to my mechanic after a trip around europe without a single issue and has never run right since. Have any of you found a remidy? I will tell you this it is not an ignition or fuel flow from the tank problem. Since the engine rvs up under choke it must be unable to draw the fuel from the carb in normal running conditions.
skidoo dude

Salt Lake City, UT

#6 May 21, 2011
If you use air pod filters up your main jet to #105 Make sure your foat level is within specs. 2-4mm from bowl level. Should run fine after that maybe have to shim the needle 1mm idle jet needle out 2 1/2 turn. Should run good now. Its a fine tune process. goodluck!
skidoo dude

Salt Lake City, UT

#7 May 22, 2011
Update on fine tuning: you need to go to a #110-115 main, raise the needle 20 mm It made mine run super.

Since: Jun 12

Old Town, FL

#8 Jun 16, 2012
I too have a 1996 ZL600 with problems like many of the above. It is very hard to start, idle rpm is very unstable, start-up requires full choke and when eng starts rpm goes "out-of-sight" reducing choke eng immediately dies, with choke off am unable to accel beyond 2000 rpm without stalling.
Have replaced all four eng to carb boots (verified NO vacuum leak), rem/instl/cleaned/inspected/ad justed on THREE separate occasions and found NOTHING wrong or improperly adjusted. Float level -perfect, all needles/seats-perfect, upon reinstall all carbs synchronized to within 1" hg. All sparkplugs-replaced (NGK as per mfg spec).
I have tried idle mixture settings in 1/2 turn increments from 1/2 turns out to 4 turns out with no success except at 4 turns out will not start at all. Which brings up question on this mode carb CVK30, does idle mix screw control AIR or FUEL? With no manual am unable to determine this.
Thanks in advance if anyone can offer any ideas no matter how wild you may think they are.

Since: Jun 12

Old Town, FL

#9 Jun 16, 2012
Addendum to last post.
Other additional info. Bike ran good until I decided to rem/seal tank (POR-15), at which time I CAREFULLY disassembled fuel selector valve, inspected and lubed seals/diaphram as a precautionary action. Note NO rust from tank (which wasn't rusty) could have reached carbs due to additional in-line fuel filter.
Sorry for such long posts , just want to emphasize how much effort I have expended chasing this problem.
minakaupo

Valga, Estonia

#10 Aug 13, 2012
same problem here with 96 year model, has anyone figured out solution? or it is suposed to be like this on cold start ???
Spyder59

Munster, IN

#11 Dec 13, 2012
i have a 1986 and have cleanedthe carbs rejeted them. they now ru fine bt will not strt cold prime the podes with a little gas and it starts right up . re removed carbs and recleaned the choke passages and still no cold start ??? elp
forestupo

Kane, PA

#12 Jun 14, 2013
Have had one of these since 1990. Always run high rpm's cold on choke. Between 3-5 thou RPM. Slowly kick back choke.
Other than that, it's basics.
CV carbs-float levels critical.
Carb sync is important. Do it after every tune-up/change.
Don't mess too much with the carbs(rejet,etc.)
Poprivet-idle controls fuel,not air. Suggest replace gas lines to carbs, check petcock and tank.
TurdPopsicle

Easton, PA

#13 Aug 26, 2013
Ive had the same problem with my 86 zl600. high RPM at cold start on full choke, will not run once choke is off. Had carbs rebuilt, all new boots, new vacuum line, fuel lines, and air valve. still same problem. Decided to try to run bike from another fuel source ( bottle hanging from latter). Bike ran great no problems what so ever. Put fuel tank back on, same problems as before. Scratched my head for 2 weeks going over EVERYTHING again. Still could not find problem. Then it dawned on me that the petcock was vacuum activated. Pulled petcock off tore it apart and guess what? Torn diaphragm. Replaced with manual petcock I found on ebay and plugged the vaccum lines for the petcock and now bike runs like a raped ape. All of the money I sunk into this bike with over 3 months of trying to figure out what was wrong with it and all it was, was a $30 petcock. Im not saying this is what's wrong with your bikes, but hey give it a shot.
Fasted

Tampa, FL

#14 Oct 26, 2013
Spyder59 wrote:
i have a 1986 and have cleanedthe carbs rejeted them. they now ru fine bt will not strt cold prime the podes with a little gas and it starts right up . re removed carbs and recleaned the choke passages and still no cold start ??? elp
dude same bike rejeted , air pods everthing new ! Found out that valve adjustment was the only sulloition to this no start for an hour id have to crank onthis thing then ran great so pull the cover follow instuctions youll be good
Steve

Loveland, OH

#15 Aug 28, 2014
hey everyone, i have an 86 zl600 that used to have a similar problem to yours and I am betting you are still letting air in between the carbs and airbox leaning out your mixture to one or more of the carbs screwing with things. I ended up replacing these boots (like a few of you have done) but I also ditched the stock spring clamp for a traditional pipe clamp that I can screw far tighter than the spring grabs. I was unable to keep the bike running without the choke after cleaning, syncing, setting float height, adjusting air-fuel (I also chose to go out 2.75 turns if that helps), new NGK plugs set to the exact OEM spec gap and torque, valves adjusted and a new air filter. The last thing I did was to just pull off the carbs, replace with pipe clamp and voila! She fired right up with choke (revving high) and I was able to modulate the choke down carefully to about 2k rpm (still at around 1/4 - 1/3 choke) then after maybe 30sec I kill the choke entirely and she lumbers along at about 1k-1,100rpm and will even rev with FI like throttle response, even before she warms up fully!! Now I know I may be running a little rich but I would rather run rich and cool than lean and hot. I have crazy throttle response throughout the rev range for a carby bike and not a sign of a flat spot to be seen all the way up to redline :). So beyond the pipe clamps I would recommend you do not forget to make sure your valves are adjusted to the highest precision you can manage. I believe my lash is set at .15mm Intake and .20mm Exhaust (unless I swapped the two numbers) which has been awesome for me. Tip: when adjusting these valves have two feeler gauges and adjust each pair of valves that share a rocker arm together so the arm cannot pivot, giving you a false reading.:)

Since: Apr 15

Garden Grove, CA

#16 Apr 13, 2015
poprivet wrote:
I too have a 1996 ZL600 with problems like many of the above. It is very hard to start, idle rpm is very unstable, start-up requires full choke and when eng starts rpm goes "out-of-sight" reducing choke eng immediately dies, with choke off am unable to accel beyond 2000 rpm without stalling.
Have replaced all four eng to carb boots (verified NO vacuum leak), rem/instl/cleaned/inspected/ad justed on THREE separate occasions and found NOTHING wrong or improperly adjusted. Float level -perfect, all needles/seats-perfect, upon reinstall all carbs synchronized to within 1" hg. All sparkplugs-replaced (NGK as per mfg spec).
I have tried idle mixture settings in 1/2 turn increments from 1/2 turns out to 4 turns out with no success except at 4 turns out will not start at all. Which brings up question on this mode carb CVK30, does idle mix screw control AIR or FUEL? With no manual am unable to determine this.
Thanks in advance if anyone can offer any ideas no matter how wild you may think they are.
I am having similar problems with my 86' Eliminator and the fact that it runs grand with the enrichener open means it's not a fuel flow problem - so it's not the petcock or a plugged line ,nor is it a leaky boot causing it to stall out .I am becoming convinced that these bikes are just tuned to run this way and that unlike my 82' Nighthawk you just have to slowly open the choke ( actually close off the enrichener ) until the bike is fully warmed up .

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