1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee-Stalling pro...
MAMMON

Jasper, IN

#62 Nov 13, 2010
stephen wrote:
<quoted text>
I found a local mechanic who spoke highly of the jeep still and seems very confident he can fix the problem wether it is a wiring pin connector or the pcm and at only $60 per hour. Thats 100% more confident then the dealership was. Replacing the PCM is not a big deal as I have had this one out of the vehicle in my hand inspecting it and praying... If I could get the wiring connector appart I'd check the pins as wiggling the wiring always makes the jeep run or stall and depending on the tempature, humidity, location of the moon, and I'm sure some other planets then the direction of the required wiggle changes. Thats the only reason I am leaning on the wiring harness connectors at the moment other than price. I'm plenty mechanically capable of fixing the problem, just need a little more direction on which way to go.
Other than that there are no codes or anyhthing. I replaced the spark plugs pretty quick after getting the jeep. It seemed like a tune up would do it good and it did till the stalling started. The wires really look good but I could replace them to if you really think I should.
Someone mentioned zip tying the ever loving sht out of the harness where it connects. Good luck man, after I replaced the computer it ran fine for a few days then started doing the same crap again. Replaced the coil pack and its been a month with no problem. Good luck man.
phil

United States

#63 Nov 14, 2010
Spent a lot on my 98 GC trying to fix the dying problem. its been going on for 3 yrs. I can drive it throw it in neutral to stop ...never decelerate..never rev the engine..if you do it floods and goes to sleep. Ive changed so much stuff i forgot what ive changed. Cant get a computer cause they are all sold out looking for a used one...what else can I do? What is a Pcm? Im going to get one of those and try it.

Since: May 09

Los Angeles, CA

#64 Nov 14, 2010
stephen wrote:
<quoted text>
I found a local mechanic who spoke highly of the jeep still and seems very confident he can fix the problem wether it is a wiring pin connector or the pcm and at only $60 per hour. Thats 100% more confident then the dealership was. Replacing the PCM is not a big deal as I have had this one out of the vehicle in my hand inspecting it and praying... If I could get the wiring connector appart I'd check the pins as wiggling the wiring always makes the jeep run or stall and depending on the tempature, humidity, location of the moon, and I'm sure some other planets then the direction of the required wiggle changes. Thats the only reason I am leaning on the wiring harness connectors at the moment other than price. I'm plenty mechanically capable of fixing the problem, just need a little more direction on which way to go.
Other than that there are no codes or anyhthing. I replaced the spark plugs pretty quick after getting the jeep. It seemed like a tune up would do it good and it did till the stalling started. The wires really look good but I could replace them to if you really think I should.
Please trust me. I had the same EXACT issues! When I wiggled the wiring harness connectors the car would stall (when it was running)...if I couldn't start it, I would go out and wiggle the connectors and it would start right up! I was SURE it was a pin in the harness connectors...I went as far as taking the connectors apart...warning: do not try this! Its a pain to put back together (correctly). Put in a new preflashed PCM from AutoZone or where ever and then try to wiggle the connectors...nothing happens because its not the connectors its the weak solder joint INSIDE the brain (PCM) that cause the stalling...my codes were related to the primary side of the ignition coil...either change your plugs wires and distributor cap/rotor too or ohm them out to see the resistance...too much resistance in the coil wire and the plug wires causes power to backfeed into the brain and also the fact it is under the hood in the hot engine compartment further compounds the problem...If you take the PCM apart, you'll won't see any circuitry because it is encased in a silicone gel type material.

Since: May 09

Los Angeles, CA

#65 Nov 14, 2010
phil wrote:
Spent a lot on my 98 GC trying to fix the dying problem. its been going on for 3 yrs. I can drive it throw it in neutral to stop ...never decelerate..never rev the engine..if you do it floods and goes to sleep. Ive changed so much stuff i forgot what ive changed. Cant get a computer cause they are all sold out looking for a used one...what else can I do? What is a Pcm? Im going to get one of those and try it.
Powertrain Control Module. AutoZone sells them preflashed for $199.95. They are rebuilt units and sometimes are bad out of the box...don't get discouraged though, there is a 1 year warranty and you can get another one and replace it if its bad...sure beats the $471 (my mechanic's price) the Chrysler/Jeep dealers want for one. The PCM is held in by 3 5/16" or 8mm screws...make sure you disconnect the battery before replacing PCM. Another note: My Grand Cherokee has the alarm system (controlled by the BCM or Body Control Module) and even after the engine issues were gone, the little red LED on the dash for the alarm would not blink (thus no alarm function) until 3 days later when the BCM and PCM were done talking to and getting used to each other...now all is fine again. Good luck.
Stephen

United States

#66 Nov 15, 2010
Stelios wrote:
<quoted text>Please trust me. I had the same EXACT issues! When I wiggled the wiring harness connectors the car would stall (when it was running)...if I couldn't start it, I would go out and wiggle the connectors and it would start right up! I was SURE it was a pin in the harness connectors...I went as far as taking the connectors apart...warning: do not try this! Its a pain to put back together (correctly). Put in a new preflashed PCM from AutoZone or where ever and then try to wiggle the connectors...nothing happens because its not the connectors its the weak solder joint INSIDE the brain (PCM) that cause the stalling...my codes were related to the primary side of the ignition coil...either change your plugs wires and distributor cap/rotor too or ohm them out to see the resistance...too much resistance in the coil wire and the plug wires causes power to backfeed into the brain and also the fact it is under the hood in the hot engine compartment further compounds the problem...If you take the PCM apart, you'll won't see any circuitry because it is encased in a silicone gel type material.
Well I can't argue much if you had the exact same problems, especially with the wiring. I'll be getting a PCM then from autozone or napa this week. Thanks for the help. I'll let you know how it goes as soon as I get it done.
abe

Long Island City, NY

#67 Nov 15, 2010
I have a 1998 Jeep grand cherokee 4.0 6cyl. I have the same stalling issues. I would pull up to traffic and the idling would go below 1k rpm and i would keep my foot on the gas to rev up the engine while having it in neutral. when the light changes, i then move it into drive and it goes. sometimes out of nowhere it just shuts off then after many tries it turns back on. I've changed the crankshaft position sensor, the fuel pump assembly, the distributor, cap and rotor, wires, injectors, spark plugs, the Ecm (2x) and just when you think it's fixed boom there it goes at it again, stalling. I've spent so much on this vehicle. I'm saving to purchase another car but i need this to work because i have no other vehicle. I was reading the forum and i read somewhere about the wiring harness, the ecm plug fix and so forth at this point i am at a loss please help!!!!
stephen

United States

#68 Nov 20, 2010
just put the pcm in along with a new distributor cap, rotor, and spark plug wires. Napa price matched autozone's price of $225.99 and the $300. Both were from the same manufacturer too. Jeep started up fine. Wiggled wires going into pcm and no miss or stall or anything. Just a side note the rear window wiper was iratic in its operation and now it seems to be working fine. I'll start driving the vehicle more now and see how it does. Also just for the record before the PCM i've replaced the camshaft position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, Idle Air Control valve, spark plugs, coil, and battery. Anyway, knock on wood we'll see how it does now.

Since: May 09

Los Angeles, CA

#69 Nov 21, 2010
stephen wrote:
just put the pcm in along with a new distributor cap, rotor, and spark plug wires. Napa price matched autozone's price of $225.99 and the $300. Both were from the same manufacturer too. Jeep started up fine. Wiggled wires going into pcm and no miss or stall or anything. Just a side note the rear window wiper was iratic in its operation and now it seems to be working fine. I'll start driving the vehicle more now and see how it does. Also just for the record before the PCM i've replaced the camshaft position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, Idle Air Control valve, spark plugs, coil, and battery. Anyway, knock on wood we'll see how it does now.
lol...TOLD YOU SO!!! I'm glad your is working fine though... ;-)
john

Armstrong, Canada

#70 Nov 30, 2010
i have the same problem ill fix it next week and let you know lol i hope
jeep

Dyer, TN

#71 Dec 1, 2010
PCM is just a 6 month fix. It will stall again. at least mine did. It is gone now. Bought a Chevy.
Jim

Battle Creek, MI

#72 Dec 12, 2010
My jeep will run OK for days. Then it will stall, blow smoke from the aircleaner, sometime back fire and then stop and when I start it will turn but not firer up. When it one did start I check under the hood for anything I bumped the harness on the ECU and the engine quit. When it stalled again I wiggled the harness and it will start. I am now in search of new connectors for the ECU.

Since: May 09

Los Angeles, CA

#73 Dec 13, 2010
Jim wrote:
My jeep will run OK for days. Then it will stall, blow smoke from the aircleaner, sometime back fire and then stop and when I start it will turn but not firer up. When it one did start I check under the hood for anything I bumped the harness on the ECU and the engine quit. When it stalled again I wiggled the harness and it will start. I am now in search of new connectors for the ECU.
Read the previous posts...don't mess with the connectors its the PCM.
Manny G

Pompano Beach, FL

#74 Dec 29, 2010
Steps to repair 1997 Jeep stalling issue.
This will work for most.

I find the fix circulated around the web referring to the 2 torx screws kind of silly since these 2 screws go into plastic and the depth (bottom out) is more than sufficient for the original length of the screws.

So then why so many people say after doing that it ran fine? That's because the connectors were removed and re-inserted into the PCM thereby addressing the issue as in step 3 below.

1- Clean ground connectors at the block tied to the Oil stick, make sure they are tight and clean. Any oil leak from the valve cover could accumulate on this stud and later carbonize and prevent the flow of electrons.

2- Clean and tighten ground connectors at the fender next to the battery.

3- Remove coolant overflow canister and place on top of battery, remove all 3 connectors from PCM, spray with contact cleaner,(both computer connectors and harness).

Note this is the most important step!!!

4- When reinserting connectors to the PCM make sure that you hear a loud click on each lock tab for each connector.

Just pushing the connector without this loud click will leave it wiggling, with heat and cold (shrinkage and expansion) the connection will come loose.

You will have to grab the connector and push it in and twist it upwards to hear the snap. If you feel it snapped in but did not make the loud click then its not right and will stall again.

Since my jeep is now 13 years old I decided to also splurge with a new coil, dist cap, plugs, wires, rotor and pickup coil( also knows as camshaft sensor)
but I only did this after the original complaint was fixed. 9 months now with no stalling.

I also wiggle the harness every other month just to make sure that the cheap wiring Chrysler used hasn't cracked or peeled.

Hope this helps
Billy Hayes

Queen Creek, AZ

#75 Dec 30, 2010
Manny G wrote:
Steps to repair 1997 Jeep stalling issue.
This will work for most.
I find the fix circulated around the web referring to the 2 torx screws kind of silly since these 2 screws go into plastic and the depth (bottom out) is more than sufficient for the original length of the screws.
So then why so many people say after doing that it ran fine? That's because the connectors were removed and re-inserted into the PCM thereby addressing the issue as in step 3 below.
1- Clean ground connectors at the block tied to the Oil stick, make sure they are tight and clean. Any oil leak from the valve cover could accumulate on this stud and later carbonize and prevent the flow of electrons.
2- Clean and tighten ground connectors at the fender next to the battery.
3- Remove coolant overflow canister and place on top of battery, remove all 3 connectors from PCM, spray with contact cleaner,(both computer connectors and harness).
Note this is the most important step!!!
4- When reinserting connectors to the PCM make sure that you hear a loud click on each lock tab for each connector.
Just pushing the connector without this loud click will leave it wiggling, with heat and cold (shrinkage and expansion) the connection will come loose.
You will have to grab the connector and push it in and twist it upwards to hear the snap. If you feel it snapped in but did not make the loud click then its not right and will stall again.
Since my jeep is now 13 years old I decided to also splurge with a new coil, dist cap, plugs, wires, rotor and pickup coil( also knows as camshaft sensor)
but I only did this after the original complaint was fixed. 9 months now with no stalling.
I also wiggle the harness every other month just to make sure that the cheap wiring Chrysler used hasn't cracked or peeled.
Hope this helps
How is "carbonized oil on the stud" going to "stop the flow of electrons" id its outside the ground cable and ON TOP of the ground bolt? There is a solid mechanical connection to the block. If anything it would be corrosion. I have a 97 Jeep and I tried all that stuff you mentioned and once I changed the PCM everything was instantly fixed, now going for over a year strong.
MTjeeper

Kalispell, MT

#76 Jan 18, 2011
Neil wrote:
<quoted text>
Is there more info available (which connector and what kind of switch)? I am suffering from the same conditions.
r&r N.s. switch would refer to replacement of the neutral safety switch and there is only one connector at the pcm
Stephen

Pflugerville, TX

#77 Jan 19, 2011
Just an update after 2 months since the pcm replacement the jeep is still running strong. No other magic vodo fix ever worked this long. It's been on several 2 hour one way trips now and not even a sputter. Wife is happy again... Peace again...
Markus

Knoxville, TN

#78 Jan 20, 2011
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L 4x4
Performed Full tune up 12/2010:
spark plugs/wires, distributor cap/rotor, air filter

Plus replaced:
O2 sensors, crank position sensor, MAP sensor, ignition coil, and fuel pump assembly
I have removed and cleaned IAC valve however may still be sticking.

Pending issues:
Stalling while idling/stalling while driving, sometimes random with no warning, other times bucking/shuddering/backfiring then stall. RPM’s drop to 0 Seems to be soon after start up, and again after reaching operating temp. Trying to re-start, sometimes fires right back up, other times will take several cranks, smell gas fumes, and sometimes seems to blow excess back out of the intake!? Seems by popping it in neutral sometimes will save it from stalling. This happens once - several times a day. Located vacuum leak at Speed control servo (note: cruise no longer works)

Oddities:
1.Sometimes hear clicking in or near glove box (relays?) 2.Lights alternate flashing/horn. Once or twice while driving, several times late at night just sitting in driveway. 3.Radio will not lock on a channel, but cycles continuously. 4.Fog lights short out (when wiggle the headlight switch assembly, dash dimmer, or in auto position) 5.Transmission would not engage and/or sluggish (2 or 3 random times in last winter, 2010 but not since)
Concerns:Aftermarket alarm system or headlight switch may be faulty, if it is found to be cause of cutting off engine I would like it completely removed from vehicle and put back to stock OEM alarm.
I believe of all the parts replaced, and yet stalling remains, points to: faulty alarm system, possibly ground points, ignition switch, IAC, relays… I don’t know.
Keeps tripping code: PO108, MAP BARO circuit high and PO351, A Primary/Secondary Ignition Coil Malfunction.

What causes these codes to trip at time of bucking/shuddering/backfiring/ stalling?? Otherwise, a great running Jeep, strong motor, and smooth ride… I need the stalling fixed as it is VERY dangerous to drive.

Since: May 09

Los Angeles, CA

#79 Jan 21, 2011
Markus wrote:
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L 4x4
Performed Full tune up 12/2010:
spark plugs/wires, distributor cap/rotor, air filter
Plus replaced:
O2 sensors, crank position sensor, MAP sensor, ignition coil, and fuel pump assembly
I have removed and cleaned IAC valve however may still be sticking.
Pending issues:
Stalling while idling/stalling while driving, sometimes random with no warning, other times bucking/shuddering/backfiring then stall. RPM’s drop to 0 Seems to be soon after start up, and again after reaching operating temp. Trying to re-start, sometimes fires right back up, other times will take several cranks, smell gas fumes, and sometimes seems to blow excess back out of the intake!? Seems by popping it in neutral sometimes will save it from stalling. This happens once - several times a day. Located vacuum leak at Speed control servo (note: cruise no longer works)
Oddities:
1.Sometimes hear clicking in or near glove box (relays?) 2.Lights alternate flashing/horn. Once or twice while driving, several times late at night just sitting in driveway. 3.Radio will not lock on a channel, but cycles continuously. 4.Fog lights short out (when wiggle the headlight switch assembly, dash dimmer, or in auto position) 5.Transmission would not engage and/or sluggish (2 or 3 random times in last winter, 2010 but not since)
Concerns:Aftermarket alarm system or headlight switch may be faulty, if it is found to be cause of cutting off engine I would like it completely removed from vehicle and put back to stock OEM alarm.
I believe of all the parts replaced, and yet stalling remains, points to: faulty alarm system, possibly ground points, ignition switch, IAC, relays… I don’t know.
Keeps tripping code: PO108, MAP BARO circuit high and PO351, A Primary/Secondary Ignition Coil Malfunction.
What causes these codes to trip at time of bucking/shuddering/backfiring/ stalling?? Otherwise, a great running Jeep, strong motor, and smooth ride… I need the stalling fixed as it is VERY dangerous to drive.
You need to replace the PCM and your problems will be over. Also check you power supply relay. You are looking in the wrong places with all the other stuff you mentioned except the plugs,cap, rotor, wires for your stalling issues. The power supply relay or maybe the PCM still could be causing the other issues too.
Stephen

United States

#80 Jan 21, 2011
Stelios wrote:
<quoted text>You need to replace the PCM and your problems will be over. Also check you power supply relay. You are looking in the wrong places with all the other stuff you mentioned except the plugs,cap, rotor, wires for your stalling issues. The power supply relay or maybe the PCM still could be causing the other issues too.
I agree PCM causes alot of wierd stuff on these things.
eddieo90

Goshen, NY

#82 Feb 22, 2011
i have a 98 grand cherokee V6,no spark during cold temp,but when its warm it starts right now,runs like a baby ,,i replace everything from the plugs to the pick up coil.still no luck any1 had this problem ..........please help ,its eating all my money !!!!!!!!!!

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