Oil in the coolant- 3406E

Oil in the coolant- 3406E

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Since: Aug 07

Lovelock, NV

#1 Aug 5, 2007
I recently discovered oil in my coolant system in my '96 3406E. I called the Pete dealer and was told it was most likely a bad oil cooler. I changed the cooler with a new one and flushed out the system, 3 times with liquid Tide. When the water was clear I drained the system and filled it with 50/50 antifreeze and water. Three days later I again found oil in the coolant. About a gallon of it. There was about 2 pints of coolant in the oil. I didn't check the oil the first time as I didn't see any evidence of water in the oil at that time. The second time I let the truck sit for a day and loosened the crankcase drain plug and let the coolant seep out till oil started coming out. I don't know where to look for the problem. Anyone out there had this experience? Got any answers for me? Thanks in advance, Rick in Carson City, NV
DAS

Lynwood, CA

#2 Aug 6, 2007
if you pull the oil pan and pressurize the cooling system, you can usally see where the water coolant is coming from. also turn the crankshaft to put the piston rings in different heigths in the liners. could be liner seals or a pin hole in the cyl.block. water pumps if their weephole is plugged can draw water into the oil because the oil seal is designed to pull oil back toward the engine,by the way of a spiral groove, so the water is not leaking out the weep hole it is drawn into the engine.
this is a couple ways to see if you can find the problem.
CatTech

United States

#3 Aug 10, 2007
oil in coolant. most likely cause would be the oil cooler.
CatTech

United States

#4 Aug 11, 2007
are you sure it is engine oil. do you have a trans cooler that is cooled by your coolant? it could be transmission fluid.

Since: Aug 07

Fernley, NV

#5 Aug 13, 2007
Just got word from the CAT dealer, it's the liner seal in #4 hole. Says all the liner seals need to be replaced. Also said the engine could use an inframe. Ha HA HA. He said the cost would be $17 to 18K. You gotta be shittin me I said. Just replace the seals, head gasket and let's rock n' roll. Geeze louise, these guys must think wer'e made of money.
DAS

Lynwood, CA

#6 Aug 14, 2007
you got it that far down. their going to pull the pistons and liners, change the rings, rod and main bearings at lest.

Since: Aug 07

Crystal Bay, NV

#7 Aug 15, 2007
That's exactly what they are going to do, in addition to replacing all of the head bolts. Cost? I should go into the repair business, how about $4500.00!!!
ss performance

United States

#8 Aug 18, 2007
I have a 95 3406E. I had coolant appear in the oil 5 days after a new oil change. Drained and removed the pan, pressurized the coolant system and found coolant dripping onto the crank between 1 & 2. Could not determine if it was the orings.(couldn't get a full view). Removed water pump, looked o.k. Oil cooler looked o.k. Found broken head bolt(outside front right.)Removed head to see if leakage occurred around head bolt area. Looked somewhat suspect, but not willing to bet the farm on it being the problem. Pretty much decided that at a minimum, replace both 1&2 liners and orings. Having difficulty rationalizing doing just 2 cylinders. 4 & 5 were done approximately 100,000 miles ago. Maybe want to do 3&6. Also, I assume the cam is to be original,1,230,000 miles, but looks pretty good. Has no major wear, but haven't mic'd it.$$ is not abundant, but willing to spend what I need to make it right. Don't want to have to get into it again anytime soon. I'm doing the work myself, so any input and or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
DAS

Lynwood, CA

#9 Aug 19, 2007
your faced with the same problem as fna trucking! your that far in rings, rod and main bearings at lest, new seals on liners. check the liner flange to block area for wear. if worn may need the cyl block inserted. if so put new liners in, for the wear on the cyl. block will transfer to the bottom of the liner flange. you said you had a broken head bolt change them all, bolts are streached to a lenght and over time may become weak.
ss performance

United States

#10 Aug 20, 2007
Hey thanks for the response!
I'm pulling the pistons and liners tomorrow night. Going to check the wear on the liners and inpect the condition of the seals. Need to find out exactly where the coolant was comming from for peace of mind! Speaking of that, good call on replacing the head bolts, probably would have cheaped out on them, but your absolutely right! Got a quote on all cat re-man cylinder packs all gaskets, mains and rod bearing, injector sleeves and seals, etc.$4,100.
Still gonna price around a bit more. Little leary of the aftermarket stuff. Grandaddy always told me you get what you pay for......even though they claim to be better than CAT? I dunno. I can't piss around too long, need to get her back on the road. Time is $$. Neither seem to be around at the same time..Thanks!! Any more thoughts if you think of them would be great.
ss performance

United States

#11 Aug 21, 2007
Pulled pistons and sleeves tonight. Most all of the sleeve orings were shot! Obviously the problem. Still replacing all 6 cylinder packs etc. Only cost $105 per hole after core refund. All CAT rebuilt parts. Still looking at $4,000 est. for whole job, but way cheaper than FNA's est. from the shop. Not quite the do it yourself job you would see on DIY network, but will certainly be worth the extra long nights and weekends. Wife wants the truck on the road again on Monday...the driver is starving! Ain't gonna happen! Maybe Tuesday.
DAS

Lynwood, CA

#12 Aug 21, 2007
good for you! doing it your self can save on the labor cost whitch is about the same price as the parts.clean the top of the block well, and the lower bore chamfer, makes the liner seal go in alot easier.
ss performance

United States

#13 Aug 23, 2007
Installed liners and pistons tonight, went smooth. Had to do a little work on the contact points where the seals meet the block, but nothing major. Wow what an experience! I'm actually getting off on the project, if not for the high cost associated with the whole ordeal. I'm looking at it this way: I'm going to school on Kitty Cat engines for around $4,500!
Life's good. Don't sweat the small stuff, and as our slogan for the company says,
"Ain't no hill for a climber!" Thanks DAS!
DAS

Lynwood, CA

#14 Aug 24, 2007
when you put the camshaft in, pin the flywheel, then time the camshaft gear to the pointer on the top of the front housing. you may have to play with the idler gear below it to get the right back lash between the gears.
ss performance

United States

#15 Aug 25, 2007
Okay, will do. Pinning the flywheel proved a bit tricky when disassembling. Seems you can be 180 off, or t.d.c. The bolt seemed to fit a little deeper into the flywheel at t.d.c., but had to double check the position of the camshaft to make sure. Any way to pin it before the head goes on? I'm a pretty good size guy, but man she's hard to turn over by hand!! Speaking of pointers, any tricks to setting the head back on? Lots of seals and such to keep in place. The o ring on the front plate around the camshaft looks critical. I'll just take my time and not get in a hurry.
DAS

Lynwood, CA

#16 Aug 28, 2007
with the head off the engine should turn over pretty easy. but with the injectors in and all the rockers on it is pretty hard to turn. the timing with the cam out is pin the flywheel. it does not know 1 or six tell the cam gear is installed. then it has to line up with the mark on the front cover. if you put the rockers on before you time the cam you will bend the valves, if you turn the engine or if the cam is in the wrong place.
DAS

Lynwood, CA

#17 Sep 3, 2007
well is it running and hopefully you put the injectors back in the same cylinder they came out of! they have a trim number on them and have to be put back in with a computer if you switch cylinder, if in the same cylinder your ok.
Mechanic

Twinsburg, OH

#18 Oct 4, 2007
The only 2 things that will give you this is either a bad oil cooler or a blown water pump seal.Depending on the amount of oil in the coolant is were it determines what went bad. Since you already changed the oil cooler it takes a while to get all the oil out of the coolant. you need to keep an eye on the oil level. if its going down and there is still oil in the coolant then your culprit is the water pump.
dale

Harrington, DE

#19 Jun 11, 2008
does any one have a picture of a crankshaft gear for a 3406 e cat. C16. has any one had a problem with them? I put an after market crankshaft in my 3406e cat which was a steel crank I used the old gear off my cast iron crank and put it on my new steel crank shaft and I can't get it to pick up the crankshaaft sensor and cam shaft sensor. They are not talking to each other. She is a 1999 peterbuilt. does any one know the answer why it is not picking the sensors??? thank you
DAS

Lynwood, CA

#20 Jun 11, 2008
did you get the gear all the way on the crankshaft? if it is to far from the sensor it well not pick it up. also if your camshaft gear is to far one way or the other, it will not pick it up the sensor ether.
and if you do get it to start you need to calibrate the timing to the ecm.

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