oil in water catpiller c15 acert

oil in water catpiller c15 acert

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sifarms

Fredericksburg, TX

#1 Apr 5, 2009
have oil in water c15 acert engin. sterted two weeks ago pulled oil cooler presser tested oil coller did not find leak replaced it anyway, cleaned oil out water ran 2500 miles oil returned talked with cat they sugested replacing head. oil returned in water. please help
Vitaliy

Fresno, CA

#2 Aug 8, 2009
I have an 06 peterbilt, with c-15 cat engine on it. I'm loosing some water from cooling system, My trips ussually about 5000 miles, so in 5000 miles I have add about 2 gallons of water, check motor oil and it look fine, take off top cap from engine(middle one) look clean. my truck start to heat a little bit. keeps temperature at about 190-200 degree. Also it breaking hose going to intercooler, behind lower turbo every 4000 miles. can any body help, why does it breaking that hose, loosing so much water and the temperature? I have change my water reservoir cap, clean radiator from bugs, change anteefrize 4 times. also when I take dip stick out(engine) smoke or steam is coming out of there and from that hose on the buttom on engine on the left side I can see a steam --- smoke comming too. help

Since: Jul 08

Location hidden

#3 Aug 9, 2009
Vitaliy wrote:
I have an 06 peterbilt, with c-15 cat engine on it. I'm loosing some water from cooling system, My trips ussually about 5000 miles, so in 5000 miles I have add about 2 gallons of water, check motor oil and it look fine, take off top cap from engine(middle one) look clean. my truck start to heat a little bit. keeps temperature at about 190-200 degree. Also it breaking hose going to intercooler, behind lower turbo every 4000 miles. can any body help, why does it breaking that hose, loosing so much water and the temperature? I have change my water reservoir cap, clean radiator from bugs, change anteefrize 4 times. also when I take dip stick out(engine) smoke or steam is coming out of there and from that hose on the buttom on engine on the left side I can see a steam --- smoke comming too. help
sounds like a failed charge air precooler, the large chunk after the turbo boost outlet. if not the other option is a failed head gasket.
sifarms

Fredericksburg, TX

#4 Aug 9, 2009
Vitality, I had the same problem in a 05 c15. I found that there was a hole in the liner ie, electroysis. There is a easy way to check this. Remove the oil pan and pressure the water system you should see water driping form one of the liners. Be sure to turn the engin to check all liners (move pistons up that are down). The pan has a reusable gasket.
Vitaliy

Fresno, CA

#5 Aug 9, 2009
sifarms wrote:
Vitality, I had the same problem in a 05 c15. I found that there was a hole in the liner ie, electroysis. There is a easy way to check this. Remove the oil pan and pressure the water system you should see water driping form one of the liners. Be sure to turn the engin to check all liners (move pistons up that are down). The pan has a reusable gasket.
how would you fix that and where is that liner located????
Vitaliy

Fresno, CA

#6 Aug 9, 2009
DynPro wrote:
<quoted text>
sounds like a failed charge air precooler, the large chunk after the turbo boost outlet. if not the other option is a failed head gasket.
Where it located at? and how do I check?

Since: Jul 08

Location hidden

#7 Aug 10, 2009
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a204/better...

remove the air line from the cooler and check if theres any signs of coolant, liguid or residues of dried coolant. if such can be found its a clear sigh the cooler core is faulty and causing your problems. if you cant see signs of coolant inside the cooler remove the entire boost air line and check if the inside surface has any coolant residue which also indicates the cooler is faulty. if any coolant redisue can not be found i suggest you remove the precooler and take it to a cat dealer for pressure testing. if the cooler passes the tests the problem is a blown head gasket or something other. if your cylinder liner would have a pin hole caused by corrosion or electrolysis it would create serious pressure build ups in your cooling system. also it would show as discoloured oil sludge in your engine and your oil samples would indicate reduced visousity etc. the steam coming from your dip stick hole and engine blowby hose is an indication of coolant entering the combustion chamber in either as liguid or in the form of steam.

if the charge air precooler has a leak that would also explain why the water hose breaks often. such leaks are often bilateral which means that the boost pressure could build up inside the cooler core causing an air lock that prevents the coolant from flowing through the cooler. once there is no flow through the cooler the remainder of the coolant inside the cooler will start to boil and harden the hoses. the boost air flowing through the cooler is at certain load conditions way over 160 DegC and i believe the coolant hoses are not capable of withstanding such temperatures. anyway i suggest you examine these possibilities before pulling your cylinder head, since there have been many cases with a faulty precooler.
VITALIY

Sacramento, CA

#8 Aug 10, 2009
MY TRUCK JUST COME BACK AND I HAVE CHECK COOLER, IT LOOK DRIE, NO ANTEEFRIZE NOTHING, CHECK AIR LOOK FINE.
MY TRUCK EAT 2.5 GALLON OF WATER IN 5000 MLS, ALSO I CHECK RESERVOIR BOTTLE AND THERE IS SOMETHING GREY, LIKE GREESE ON THE CAP AND INSIDE BOTTLE. MY DAD WAS LOOKING AT THAT HOSE(BLUE) BEHIND TURBO AND WHEN I PRESS GAS TO 13000-15 000 RPM, THAT HOSE BECOME HARD, WAS GETTING PRESSURE. THAT PRESSURE WAS NOT STABLE IT WERE COMING LIKE PULSE,-------CLICK--CLICK-CLIC K----------
VITALIY

Sacramento, CA

#9 Aug 10, 2009
CHECK OIL ON DIP STICK AND LOOK CLEAN. LAST TIME CHANGE OIL IN 12000 MLS

Since: Jul 08

Location hidden

#10 Aug 10, 2009
the grey stuff in your reservoir is probably unburnt fuel mixed with your coolant. given the newest info i believe you have a blown cylinder head gasket and you need to pull your cylinder head. since your cooling system has been contaminated by fuel or oil it would be wise to pull your cylinder liners out during the overhaul. the rubber seals in the cooling system are not oil resistant and become swollen and broke easily during time if they are or have been in contact with oil based substances. the most critical sealing area of the cooling system is at the cylinder liner area, the lower end of the cylinders.

the pulsing of the cooler water hoses is normal. there is a coolant flow control valve on the lower end of the cooler. during low engine load conditions the valve lets the coolant to circulate in pulses in order to prevent boiling of the coolant and to maintain proper inlet air temperature. once engine load increases the pulse frequency becomes wider and eventually, at full load, the valve stays constantly open.

if you need more info i'd be glad to help, cheers.
Vitaliy

Fresno, CA

#11 Aug 11, 2009
how hard does it to fix???

Since: Jul 08

Location hidden

#12 Aug 11, 2009
well you need to remove the cylinder head attleast lol. i suggest you contact your nearest cat dealer. cheers
Vitaliy

Fresno, CA

#13 Aug 13, 2009
I CHECK MY COOLER AND PRECOOLER WITH AIR AND NO LEAKS, BUT SOMEBODY JUST TOLD ME THAT I NEED TO DO THAT IN HOT WATER, PLACE COOLER FOR LIKE 20 MIN TO BOILED WATER AND THEN PRESSURIZE IT. WOULD YOU THINK IT WILL MAKE ANY DIFFERENCE?
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ALSO THE WATER RESERVOIR NEVER GETS PRESSURE SO MUCH. MY AUNCLE HAVE DETROIT ON HIS ENGINE AND 2 TIMES HIS GASKET WAS BLOWEN, HIS RESERVOIR GETS SO MUCH PRESSURE AND WERE BREAKING HOSES SO HE DROVE HOME WITH OPEN RESERVOIR CAP.
----------
Vitaliy

Fresno, CA

#14 Aug 13, 2009
I HAVE SMELL MY WATER AND IT DOES NOT SMELL LIKE FUEL(DIESEL), SMELLS LIKE ANEFREEZE. THE LAST TIME WHEN THAT HOSE BROKE, I FILL IN WITH WATER, ABOUT 10 GALLONS OF REGULAR WATER, SO I DON'T KNOW HOW MUCH ANTEFREEZE LEFT THERE BUT IT WAS JUST A LITTLE AND STILL I CAN SMELL ANTEFREEZE AND NOT OIL OR DIESEL.

Since: Jul 08

Location hidden

#15 Aug 14, 2009
indeed the pressure test should be done once the cooler core is hot. remove the precooler from the engine and fabricate tools for pressurizing the coolant side of the cooler core. then pressurize with 4 bar. spray some leak finding solution or just plain soap water onto the pressure connections in order to make sure no leaks are present. then place the cooler into an open container or tub which can hold as much water that the cooler can be completely submerged. at this point record your pressure reading, i recommend 4 bar. fill the container with piping hot water, the hotter the better. visually check for continous streams of air bubbles. if no obvious leaks can be seen let the cooler rest submerged for 30 minutes. after that check the pressure. if the pressure has dropped then its obviously leaking somewhere, but it would be wise to double check all the pressure connections before jumping to conclusions. if the pressure has increased a bit or remains at the original reading the cooler is 99 % leak free. 99 because in actual use the cooler core is subjected to much higher temperature changes and physical stress caused by thermal expansion and external forces.

i highly recommend you use antifreeze as a coolant. using just plain water will cause you lots of trouble due to obvious reasons, such as corrosion. the increased engine temperature could be a result of using water as a coolant since antifreeze solution transits heat much more sufficiently. using water will also increase water pump cavitaion and as a result dramatically reduce the coolant circulation flow and pressure.

ask for more info
Vitaliy

Fresno, CA

#16 Aug 17, 2009
sifarms wrote:
Vitality, I had the same problem in a 05 c15. I found that there was a hole in the liner ie, electroysis. There is a easy way to check this. Remove the oil pan and pressure the water system you should see water driping form one of the liners. Be sure to turn the engin to check all liners (move pistons up that are down). The pan has a reusable gasket.
HOW YOU RESOLVE THE PROBLEM AND HOW MUCH IT COST. IN ORDER TO FIX IT WHAT HAVE YOU DONE???
Vitaliy

Fresno, CA

#17 Aug 17, 2009
how to find part # for head it self and for gasket?

Since: Jul 08

Location hidden

#18 Aug 18, 2009
in both cases you will need to remove your cylidner head. the cylinder liners can only be removed once the cylinder head has been removed. you will be able to check both the head gasket and the cylinder liners once the head is off. i assume there was no leakage on the precooler.

why do you need the numbers for cylinder head and gasket? you better purchase a cylinder head gasket kit. i can give you the part numbers if you provide me the engine serial number
Vitaliy

Fresno, CA

#19 Aug 18, 2009
head is off the truck now, how do I check those fricking liners. gasket look good. I want probably have head checked for cracks.
engine serial # mxs25966.

Since: Jul 08

Location hidden

#20 Aug 19, 2009
in order to remove your cylidner liners you need a pulling fixture. a long two or three leg puller should suffice. alternatively you can manufacture a round pulling plate and use it with a thread bar to pull the liners out. once you've removed the liners thoroughly wash them. if no erosion spots can be seen i suggest you inspect the liners with a crack detection kit.

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