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Since: Nov 12

United States

#1 Nov 30, 2012
I have a ton of knowledge about automobiles and motorcycles at my disposal (as well as free time). If you have questions about fixing your ride, I'll be happy to take them on. No, I won't come to your house and fix it, just give advice.

Hell, if you'd just like to quiz me or pick my brain about cars or bikes in general, you can do that too. I have an ASE certification, and my speciality is Hondas (cars and bikes) but I've worked on or owned everything from Cub Cadets to Ducati's and Hummers.

I will admit I don't know much about diesels...

Be Rock No Momma

“All hail Queen Mayor”

Since: Sep 11

Oak Hill, OH

#2 Nov 30, 2012
Did someone steal your tools?
haha

Jackson, OH

#3 Nov 30, 2012
Be Rock No Momma wrote:
Did someone steal your tools?
If so there is a thread about it.

Since: Nov 12

Columbus, OH

#4 Nov 30, 2012
I am disabled and can no longer perform the job I love. I can't even drive a stick shift anymore because of an injury I sustained overseas. My mind is still clear, and I'm still good at typing and diagnosing problems. I still like to feel usefu. Does that help clarify?

Be Rock No Momma

“All hail Queen Mayor”

Since: Sep 11

Oak Hill, OH

#5 Nov 30, 2012
Jim I was just teasing you when i asked about the tools.. Sorry to hear about the accident.. Maybe you could look into setting up a website answering questions about cars in live chat- pick up a few sponsors willing to advertise on your site and make you feel like you are doing something worthwhile.. Maybe even talk to Ebay Motors or AutoZone about backing you or advertising on a website.. Wouldn't it be great if ebay put you to work answering questions right on their site?

Feeling useless is a terrible feeling that i can relate to so I spend my spare time here on topic causing hate and discontent just for something to do.. Good luck to ya

Since: Nov 12

Columbus, OH

#6 Nov 30, 2012
Why don't you put your free time to GOOD use? Idle hands are the devil's workshop.
tell me

Jackson, OH

#7 Nov 30, 2012
Safeway Jim wrote:
I have a ton of knowledge about automobiles and motorcycles at my disposal (as well as free time). If you have questions about fixing your ride, I'll be happy to take them on. No, I won't come to your house and fix it, just give advice.
Hell, if you'd just like to quiz me or pick my brain about cars or bikes in general, you can do that too. I have an ASE certification, and my speciality is Hondas (cars and bikes) but I've worked on or owned everything from Cub Cadets to Ducati's and Hummers.
I will admit I don't know much about diesels...
wow--THANKYOU SAFEWAY JIM!!! It is soooo nice to read a thread/post that is not about drugs, thiefs, and welfare. You have been blessed with a gift that few of us have (me included) and it is so refreshing to see a genuine post. Make this your career-I'll back you! Thanks again!!!
forum reader

South Webster, OH

#8 Nov 30, 2012
Safeway Jim wrote:
I am disabled and can no longer perform the job I love. I can't even drive a stick shift anymore because of an injury I sustained overseas. My mind is still clear, and I'm still good at typing and diagnosing problems. I still like to feel usefu. Does that help clarify?
... why is it everytime i pay to get my dashboards light off they come back on in about 6 weeks.
tell me

Jackson, OH

#9 Nov 30, 2012
forum reader wrote:
<quoted text>... why is it everytime i pay to get my dashboards light off they come back on in about 6 weeks.
i am not Jim, but same thing happened to me. i was told by the mechanic that it is due to the quality of gas going thru your system, so mine stays on all the time now-but ck with the expert-Jim!!!(I am so pleased with his post!)!

Since: Nov 12

Greenwich, OH

#10 Nov 30, 2012
forum reader wrote:
<quoted text>... why is it everytime i pay to get my dashboards light off they come back on in about 6 weeks.
Are you referring to the CEL (check engine light)? There are lots of reasons it comes on. Most common is oxygen sensors, followed by cylinder misfires (one generally causes the other). You can go to Autozone or Advanced Auto and have them read for free. Write down the codes and let me know the make/model/year of your car, and we'll get you fixed up.
hah

Wilmington, OH

#11 Dec 1, 2012
QUOTE who="Safeway Jim"I have a ton of knowledge about automobiles and motorcycles at my disposal (as well as free time). If you have questions about fixing your ride, I'll be happy to take them on. No, I won't come to your house and fix it, just give advice.
Hell, if you'd just like to quiz me or pick my brain about cars or bikes in general, you can do that too. I have an ASE certification, and my speciality is Hondas (cars and bikes) but I've worked on or owned everything from Cub Cadets to Ducati's and Hummers.
I will admit I don't know much about diesels...
> an you tell me about the difference in the steel block 4.6l ford motors and the all aluminum cobra motors that were from years 96-98?
SafewayJim

Reynoldsburg, OH

#12 Dec 1, 2012
I'm assuming you mean iron, not steel.

The main differences (aside from the obvious difference in material composition) are the number of valves per cylinder. The SVT Cobras got a 2-intake, 2-exhaust valve setup, while the regular 4.6 iron block mustangs got a 1-in, 1-out setup. The aluminum block engines were also 6 bolt main, while the iron block were 4 bolt. Some of the 16 valve engines were manufactured in Ford's Windsor plant, while all of the 32v aluminum engines were hand-built at Romeo.

In general, aluminum engines are lighter and more heat efficient. Iron is much heavier, and isn't as good at dispersing heat, but it is stronger and will hold up to the heat for a lot longer(that's why it only needs a 4 bolt main instead of a six). If you were building a drag car, the aluminum 32v heads are preferred as they flow more air, but the iron block would be preferred, as it can hold up to a lot more abuse. An iron block 4.6 with forged internals is damn near bullet-proof.

If I haven't answered your question to your satisfaction, please feel free to be more specific about what you'd like to know, and I'll do my best to answer.

Since: Nov 12

United States

#13 Dec 2, 2012
I can't believe that more people don't have questions about cars...

Be Rock No Momma

“All hail Queen Mayor”

Since: Sep 11

Tarlton, OH

#14 Dec 2, 2012
Safeway Jim wrote:
I can't believe that more people don't have questions about cars...
These guys drive Hoverounds
qpamq

Sabina, OH

#15 Dec 3, 2012
Safeway Jim wrote:
I can't believe that more people don't have questions about cars...
Recently when i stop at a red light, my RPMs go down and sometimes the car will stop. However, if I turn off my A/C or heater while stopped, the RPMs go back to normal. What causes this and how much will it cost to repair?

Since: Nov 12

United States

#16 Dec 3, 2012
qpamq wrote:
<quoted text>
Recently when i stop at a red light, my RPMs go down and sometimes the car will stop. However, if I turn off my A/C or heater while stopped, the RPMs go back to normal. What causes this and how much will it cost to repair?
I'm going to assume the car is an automatic. It sounds like either your alternator or battery is about to crap out. Check your electrical connections and grounds, and make sure the battery terminals aren't corroded. If I am correct, when the RPMs go down, your headlights probably get dimmer as well.
fyi

Jackson, OH

#17 Dec 3, 2012
Safeway Jim wrote:
<quoted text>
I'm going to assume the car is an automatic. It sounds like either your alternator or battery is about to crap out. Check your electrical connections and grounds, and make sure the battery terminals aren't corroded. If I am correct, when the RPMs go down, your headlights probably get dimmer as well.
Jim when this continued to happen to my car the throttle needed cleaned-it was all gunked up-after that it ran fine-just a thought

Since: Nov 12

Brinkhaven, OH

#18 Dec 3, 2012
fyi wrote:
<quoted text>Jim when this continued to happen to my car the throttle needed cleaned-it was all gunked up-after that it ran fine-just a thought
That would be my assumption, too, except the part about turning off the heater. The blower motor draws a ton of amperage. When the car is going down the road, the alternator is spinning much faster than at idle, and will produce sufficient amperage to keep the system fed. When it drops to idle, either a loose connection, bad battery, or limping alternator is no longer supplying the required amperage. The voltage drop could also cause the engine idle speed to drop due to a lack of voltage to the coils causing a colder spark.

If it were a standard, I would suspect that the clutch might not be fully disengaging.
haha

Chillicothe, OH

#19 Dec 4, 2012
Safeway Jim wrote:
I can't believe that more people don't have questions about cars...
i accept your knowledge thats why i asked if you knew about those motors.

Since: Nov 12

United States

#20 Dec 4, 2012
I honestly prefer the old pushrod 5.0. Modular is superior technology for sure, but I cut my teeth on 5.0's, both 302 ford and 305 chevy. These days, I'm fascinated by much smaller displacement engines, usually two liter or less.

When I was a kid, the goal was one horsepower per cubic inch. Even the motorcycle guys were happy with 1.25 or 1.5 horsepower per cubic inch of displacement.(a 110 Harley engine with 110 hp was a big deal!) Today, sub-five liter naturally aspirated v8's typically produce better than 350 horsepower at twenty miles to the gallon and turbocharged sub-two liter four cylinders can put more than 250 horses to the pavement and sip a gallon every 28 miles at highway speed. We are living in the new hot rod age.
The old adage was "there is no replacement for displacement," but that's not true anymore. The future is going to be about fuel efficiency and durability, and small displacement wins both categories every time.

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