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Radcliff, KY

#1 Jun 22, 2009
I was so pleased with the service at this store. The manager Trish was so helpful. I was skepical at first thinking I was going to get ripped off, but the shop person checked my brakes and told me I did not need any work. I was not charged for the sevice and my faith that not all auto places are out to fleece you was renewed. I would recommend this shop, at this location, for honest service.

Radcliff, KY

#2 Jul 7, 2009
I recently had my car serviced at BrakeWay. They identified a problem with my wheel bearing, which could have been a big issue for me since I travel several hours a day for work. Trish, the store manager, helped me locate the part. She quoted me a very reasonable price to put it on. Lane, the shop foreman, and his employees finished working on my car several hours before I expected it to be ready. I want to thank Trish, and the staff at BrakeWay, for providing excellent customer service. It's been a while since I have dealt with a repair shop that was honest and didn't come across as being out to find anything possible wrong with my car to make money. They will get all of my business from now on! I'm highly recommending that my family and friends take advantage of their services as well.


#3 Jul 8, 2009
I had my front brake pad replaced today. I, like the two ladies that have written reviews before me, felt like I was treated fairly and honestly and received a fair price for only work that needed to be done.
I had gone to this store, which was farther from my home, after reading the above two reviews rather than take a chance at another store. I am glad I did.

Elizabethtown, KY

#4 Sep 6, 2010
Oh, aren't these reviews just lovely....

Everyone better check the BBB for this company it has a rating of "F" that makes you wonder about these glowing reviews...

New Albany, IN

#5 Nov 24, 2010
This place is horrible left paying almost 300.00 dollars for a crap brake job. I had never did any research on this place before going boy did I make a mistake the plan I got comes with a 3yr warranty took it back 3 times finally gave up after that they can't fix brakes. I went to the Preston hwy store and the mgr that runs that place is a real B****. Please don't make the same mistake I did beware of that place.

United States

#6 Jan 28, 2011
I had my brakes, rotors and calibers (front) repaired this morning. Gary was very nice and up front with me, about what was needed. While waiting I was able to find a coupon online for15 percent off that he let me use. Let them check out your brakes and tell you what's going on with them and go from there. Sometimes the $100 deal. Won't fix the entire problem. I would come back and refer people to this location. They really did a great job.
Wes St Matts

Owensboro, KY

#7 Mar 2, 2011
SCAM ALERT...Check BBB first! I Should have done my home work. I would not trust this place. I was quoted $99 and left. They called me 2 hours later and said "the reason im having problems is I need all new hardware at $350"....Ahhh I was never having problems, just thought it was new brake time. The dealership quoted much less than that...I know now. SCAM!!!!!

Santa Clara, CA

#8 May 10, 2011
all u people need to understand that some times more is wrong with your vehicle than u think. there is no reason to bash a company because you abuse your brakes. try fire stone or good year then maybe ur opinion of brakeway won't be so bad!
just another opinion

Skokie, IL

#9 May 10, 2011
Most auto repair clientele couldn't tell you the names of any of the employees, let alone their role they play per shop.
Not at all to take away from BrakeWay, because to be honest I do my own repairs, so I have never been to them to say good or bad. I just know when something seems fishy, such as beautiful reviews including details that must clients don't care to remember.

For those of you wanting to be a little ahead of the game when you go to a place for brake work, here are some universal brake symptoms and likely causes.

Most all brake systems are the same/similar so this applies for all makes and models that I can think of. I'm going to post these problems in separate posts, so bear with me.

*Brake fluid leaks at the master cylinder where you fill it up. PROBLEM: Most likely a master cylinder gone bad. Easy to tell, if it leaks right where the master cylinder mounts to the big round (usually black) brake booster by (usually) 2 bolts, and/or your brake pedal feels soft and slowly sinks to the floor if you keep your foot on it, and/or brake light comes on along with any of these symptoms.
just another opinion

Skokie, IL

#10 May 10, 2011
Brake fluid leaking anywhere between the master cylinder and just before each wheel. PROBLEM: Most likely a brake line (usually metal) has rusted through and is leaking. This is usually a leak on the drivers side of the car anywhere from the front to the back, not right at the wheels, or the master cylinder. Typically a brake light may come on due to the low brake fluid as well and/or a soft pedal. Similar symptoms as a bad master cylinder, although different in the location which the fluid leaks from.
just another opinion

Skokie, IL

#11 May 10, 2011
Brake fluid leaking directly at one wheel or another. PROBLEM: Depends. If car has disk brakes, it could be a rubber brake hose at the caliper, the rubber boot around the caliper piston. If drum brakes, 99% of the time it is the wheel cylinder inside the brake drum. Look at the inner side of your rear wheel if you have drum brakes and see if the fluid is all over the tire and looks to be coming from the bottom of the drum and backing plate. Don't confuse a leaky wheel seal for wheel cylinder bad. A wheel seal leaking axle grease (rear wheel drive cars) the fluid that leaks will typically stink bad.
just another opinion

Skokie, IL

#12 May 10, 2011
Brake calipers only need to be replaced under certain conditions. If the rubber boot around the caliper piston is torn, if the caliper piston can not be pressed back in during a brake job (a stuck/locked/siezed caliper they call that) if it is leaking fluid, or if the bolt holes for some strange reason should be broken off. Don't ask I've seen shade-tree's do that before somehow.

Brake hoses need to be replaced if leaking fluid, outer rubber is torn/dry rotted/cracked or sticking shut. How to tell if you have a brake hose bad. Typically the car will pull one direction or the other when applying the brakes (a caliper could be doing this as well). Raise the car up and get a friend. Have a friend hold the brakes while you attempt to turn the wheel. While you have force applied trying to turn it, have the friend release the brake pedal. If the wheel immediately turns, the hose is good. If not, the hose is bad.
just another opinion

Skokie, IL

#13 May 10, 2011
A word about wheel cylinders. If you are replacing one, go ahead and pay to have them both done. I promise you will hate to have the same problem pop up, just on the opposite side of the car within months of one another.
Wheel cylinders are generally cheap, small, and not super hard to replace (usually). Expect to pay for time and brake fluid for brake bleeding procedure. You can't avoid that cost.
If you had a wheel cylinder leaking REPLACE the brake shoes when you have the wheel cylinders done. The shoes (brake pads for a drum brake system) material is going to be saturated with brake fluid from the leaky wheel cylinder. The material of the shoes is probably no count anymore so just replace them. Same rule applies in the case a wheel seal has been leaking.
just another opinion

Skokie, IL

#14 May 10, 2011
Brake Boosters. Ever hit your brake pedal and noticed 1 or 2 things happen, such as the brakes work but the pedal is really hard to press with your foot and you don't stop as fast and/or hear a loud hissing sound when you do so? THAT is a sure sign of a brake booster gone bad.
just another opinion

Skokie, IL

#15 May 10, 2011
Ever hit your brakes and felt the whole car shake and or the steering wheel/brake pedal vibrate too? That is a sure sign of warped brake rotors and/or drums.
How to tell...
If you hit the brakes and you mostly feel vibration coming through your seat and the brake pedal, it's coming from the rear (rotors or drums)

If you hit the brakes and you mostly feel the brake pedal pulsing up and down and the steering wheel rocks back and forth, its coming from the front.

Some shops will still turn rotors/drums on a lathe for you for a small charge usually (Oreillys does it for $8 or $10 last I checked). Now days rotors and drums are becoming more available and better priced so it usually makes more sense to just purchase new ones. Only time I would not is if they are rediculously priced or new ones are not available. Remember, rotors and drums on all cars have a tolerance specification. That means they can only be cut down so thin and after that they are no good. So sometimes you won't be able to turn them on a lathe for being to thin to even start. Turning them could lead to two rotors of different thickness and cause a pull to one direction when you apply the brakes.
just another opinion

Skokie, IL

#16 May 10, 2011
Finally I leave you all with this. Brake systems have been the same/similar for all cars for decades. Just because your engine has a million new sensors and complicates the shade-tree mechanics sometimes, don't be intimidated by doing your own brake jobs. They haven't changed enough to drive vehicle owners from doing their own repairs.

Just replacing pads/shoes does not require bleeding your brakes so don't let anyone pull that one on you.

Brakes don't need to be bled JUST BECAUSE it's time. You either have a leak and got air in the lines or you didn't. Yes if you have dark colored brake fluid a flush is a good idea, but if its clean fluid don't waste your money.

YES brake bleeders rust and sieze up all the time making bleeding brakes difficult sometimes. Yes these bleeders can break off and in the event that they do, and you are in imminent need of bleeding, it's going to cost more. A brake bleeder broke off in a caliper or a wheel cylinder when bleeding, will usually require a new caliper or wheel cylinder since the new ones have new bleeders that aren't rusted on.

Just do your research before giving the go ahead on repairs and know what you're looking at first.
just another opinion

Skokie, IL

#17 May 10, 2011
Okay one more thing. There is such a thing as the "Domino effect".

Suppose you have a master cylinder leaking. You get it replaced and soon after a brake line bursts. Probably not the mechanics fault. The line was already weak, and the weakest link always goes first. You get the line replaced and boom a wheel cylinder goes out...Domino effect on the weakest links. This is often a sign of contamination in the brake fluid (oils/acids/moisture and such). A flush is on the to do list now.

Brake jobs come in all shapes and sizes. Very rarely will you ever need to do the whole system at once i.e. Master cylinder/booster/lines/caliper s/wheel cylinders/pads/shoes/rotors/dr ums the whole shebang-a-bang.

Prices are going to vary from super cheap to very expensive decided not only by what's gone wrong, but also by your year make and model and even who you take it to when getting it repaired. Always get second and even third opinions.

If you want the job done right (usually) but want to pay an arm and a leg, go to Goodyear, Midas or Pep Boys. I don't condone their pricing and can't say good or negative things about their work but I hear good repairs,but bad price stories all the time.

If you want the job done cheap, find a small town non commercial named repair facility. Do your homework on them. Check their certifications and warranty policy. Brakes aren't rocket science but you still want that extra comfort knowing you can trust the guys who do the job. I didn't say let redneck joe do them, just a good, reputable, small shop. Meet them and talk to them. You'll know who's just looking for your money and not your best interests.

Remember to survive in this business, up-sell is a big thing. When we do any job on a car, we always have a look-see over your car. If you need something we are going to point it out, but we shouldn't shove it upon you. We should discuss options and best/worst case scenario's. Not only does pointing out other problems help us pay our bills, it helps you keep your car going that much longer. If we didn't tell you about something and you broke down weeks later, you'd only blame the last guy who worked on your car. So other items can't be simply ignored by us. We have to make a living just as anyone else does and you need your car in tip top shape. Some of us really do just want to help you achieve that while getting by.

An honest mechanic

Co Signed
Not from Brakeway or any of the others I mentioned. I don't steal peoples thunder and my clientele base probably couldn't handle growing anymore.

United States

#18 Jul 16, 2011
This place is a scam! I just left there ten minutes ago, and already I'm scrambling for their corporate number. I recieve a brake inspection at a very reputable ASCE certified repair shop, and was told that all I needed was new front and rear brakes, and the rotors turned. I get to Brakeway and they say "aww you bearings are bad and your tire is gonna fall off" I asked, better yet specified I wanted the $99 brake job, and just left paying $296!!!
just another opinion

Chicago, IL

#19 Jul 17, 2011
If you received a bill and did not sign an estimate/waiver saying you agreed to the repairs and the cost, then take action now.

I assume that you meant you got an inspection at a reputable ASE certified repair shop, not ASCE. How come that place didn't do the job, if you don't mind me asking?

It is completely possible the first shop ONLY inspected your brakes at your request. They may have missed a wheel bearing being bad since you only requested brakes to be inspected. I would have asked Brakeway to show me the loose play in the wheel bearing FIRST, before allowing them to repair it.

Think back to when you were there. Did you sign any waivers that would enable them to carry out unwanted repairs that they chose for you? By law, no shop can carry out ANY repair on a vehicle without a signed consent to repair form showing that you have received an estimate and agreed to pay that amount when finished. Each time they don't have proof is an open invitation to a lawsuit, but be SURE you have your ducks in a row. If you signed that form without reading, check the fine print and any clauses. If you still feel you were screwed after you check yourself, hire an attorney.

Erlanger, KY

#20 Jul 21, 2011
Where do I start. Originally started by saying I needed new pads, rotors and calipers. After telling them I needed a 2nd opinion they said they could leave the calipers be needed to do the rest... sketchy. Gave me a price of $323 for rear rotors and pads. I still refused. They offered me a 15% discount on this. Once again I said I wanted a second opinion and he told me "I already started working on it" Apparently getting a quote and taking off the tires is "started working" I reluctantly agreed. I found the pads at RockAuto for $17... was charged 20... fine I understand the markup... but $49 in labor. Still... not bad. Rotors!!! Charged $170 found them for $22... That is ridiculous. finally the hardware that they insisted needed replacment. Charged $59!!!!! found for $10.15 This place will try to convince you that you need service when you really don't, They will over charge you. And when you confront them, they will Lie. Avoid all BrakeWays. I have heard nothing but bad things.

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