Ask the Auto Doctor

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Dear Doctor: I own a 2003 Lincoln LS with only 4,700 miles. The "service parking brake" message appears and the electronic park brake light stays on.
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21 - 40 of 1,512 Comments Last updated Wednesday Aug 20
Artie

Brooklyn, NY

#21 Jun 4, 2006
1999 Chevy Tahoe 2 door, I have replaced fuel pump twice now and after about 2 thousand miles I get in truck and it does not start. It cranks and the relay by fire wall for the fuel pump is working but I have to move the wire on top of gas tank and the fuel pump starts running to start the truck. This happens every so often not all the time. I did replace the fuel pump with a factory GM fuel pump not an after market. What do you think might be causing this.
Could it be the wire harness.
Don

Baton Rouge, LA

#22 Jun 4, 2006
Hi got an old S-10 Blazer with about 150K miles runs execelent. Just had the ac compressor replaced and the mechanice told me my fan clutch was not working. I could see not blowing much air unless you really accelerated hard. Changed the clutch, engine runs much cooler but the big blower noise on take off and acceleration is very loud. I don't think this is normal, as it did not do this when i purchased it new

Please help

don
JAG

Chino, CA

#23 Jun 5, 2006
On the 2000 Blazer, my gf has one and her gas gauge would say empty most of the time, or it would go crazy on her (e.g., saying she has a full tank when it is near empty). I fixed this problem myself. How? You have to take down the gas tank and put in a new fuel sending unit. Unless you get the parts at a junkyard, you have to buy the whole unit together (it cost me 387.00 going to an autoparts store; the dealers in CA here charge 600.00 + dollars for the part alone). Make sure you get rid of most of the gas in the tank before trying to fix this job yourself. It should take approx. 2-3 hours to do.
wendy

AOL

#24 Jun 8, 2006
tony wrote:
<quoted text> check to see if the catalytic converter is plugged up.
We have a 96 Dodge Dakota that is acting mysteriously sluggish like up hills and on flats. Took the Cat converter off, not the problem. Changed distrib cap and plugs, not help. What else could it be? O2 sensor?????
wendy

AOL

#25 Jun 9, 2006
wendy wrote:
<quoted text>We have a 96 Dodge Dakota that is acting mysteriously sluggish like up hills and on flats. Took the Cat converter off, not the problem. Changed distrib cap and plugs, not help. What else could it be? O2 sensor?????
took $86 to find out it was the O2 sensors(both I guess), and the parts are only $130 for both(not $120 a piece, like the shop wanted to charge us.) Altogether, it would have cost $600 or more, since we cut the cat converter off and the $50/hr labor and the expensive parts. We can put them on cheaper.
Ryan

Orange, CA

#26 Jun 11, 2006
90% of the time the car drive fine but every so often the car just doesnt act right. What is happening is ill be driving the car and ill stop at a stop sign or stop light and all of a sudden the cars RPM's will get all erratic and the car will start to bog out. most of the time the car will do it for only a second or two and then will go back to normal but on two or three occasions the car has actually bogged out and died. I have no idea what could be causing this. The motor is in pretty good shape, the only upgrades on the motor are new DC sport carb exempt headers and a cold air intake and some upgraded spark plugs and wires. the only thing on the motor that is not intact that I think may be causing it but im not sure is the throttle position sensor. the male and female halfs of the plug were broken when I got the motor. I spent $150 to buy a new throttle body with an intact female half and then spliced on a new male half but when plugged in even though the check engine light turns off the car just doesnt idel right and bogs out more often then when its not plugged in..im at a loss and if u could offer any insight I would appreciate it. thanks for your time. Ryan Phillips~
Ryan

Orange, CA

#27 Jun 11, 2006
I have a 1993 honda civic ex, with a 1.6L vtech d16z6 motor. 90% of the time the car drive fine but every so often the car just doesnt act right. What is happening is ill be driving the car and ill stop at a stop sign or stop light and all of a sudden the cars RPM's will get all erratic and the car will start to bog out. most of the time the car will do it for only a second or two and then will go back to normal but on two or three occasions the car has actually bogged out and died. I have no idea what could be causing this. The motor is in pretty good shape, the only upgrades on the motor are new DC sport carb exempt headers and a cold air intake and some upgraded spark plugs and wires. the only thing on the motor that is not intact that I think may be causing it but im not sure is the throttle position sensor. the male and female halfs of the plug were broken when I got the motor. I spent $150 to buy a new throttle body with an intact female half and then spliced on a new male half but when plugged in even though the check engine light turns off the car just doesnt idel right and bogs out more often then when its not plugged in..im at a loss and if u could offer any insight I would appreciate it. thanks for your time. Ryan Phillips~ ddracing03@yahoo.com
Jim englewood fl

Englewood, FL

#28 Jun 12, 2006
have 2001 chev blazer I have a problem with the air pump it blew the fuse then melted the rubber hose's I replaced the pump and hose's ran about 2 weeks and melted the hose's again The tube coming from the manifold on the right side the heat melted a hole in the battery and fan guard. could this be from a bad catylitc converter, oxigen senser
john

Seattle, WA

#29 Jun 12, 2006
I have a 1978 gmc jimmy and the gas gage dosent work.
\how do i fix that.Also it has a 4 inch lift that i want lowered back to stock ow can i fix my truck
Jen

San Luis Obispo, CA

#30 Jun 15, 2006
I have a 1998 Chevy Blazer. The A/C recently stopped working. The air blows out, but its room temperature. What could be the cause of this?(Also in the winter, sometimes, the heater won't work, then it will work again- could it be related?)
Jeff

Cottage Grove, OR

#31 Jun 20, 2006
I have a 1995 Chevy Blazer. I am unable to open or unlock the rear window. This happened once before and it seems like it was a simple fix, but I do not remember what I did. Does anyone have an idea?
Mark

AOL

#32 Jun 24, 2006
I have a 93s10 Blazer, It wont start without pumping the gas!
It's very sluggish, once it warms up the check engine light comes on. I have changed the fuel filter, air filter,tune up.
auto zone said it might be the egr valve, I dont want to buy the part and that's not what it is.
Fer

United States

#33 Jun 25, 2006
i have a 1997 suburban, c1500....rear a/c....and right now, when the weather it seems to be over 100 degrees outside, the a/c failed.
Problem: When i turn it on, the compressor clicks, and star running, but after 10 to 20 seconds, stop...then come on,after 10 to 20 sec. come off.......and that's it ...it does the same thing over and over and over.....no cold air is coming out of the vents....
It has enough refrigerant....if somebody can help me with this problem, will be great
Thanks a lot!!!
Mike

Flushing, MI

#34 Jun 28, 2006
Enrique Barrer wrote:
I have a Blazer 1998 v6 4.3. With 1/4 or less of fuel on tank, and cars is running at any speed and brakes are apllied, the engine turns off. Engine can be started after few seconds. Occurs the same going down a hill. The fuel pump was changed on jul 05.
Please help me. Is a safety matter.
Thanks and best regards
Enrique
Caracas - Venezuela
Same issue on 1997 GMC Jimmy. Issue was the Steering Collum Ignition Switch. Changed it 2+ years ago no problem since.
joseph

United States

#35 Jun 29, 2006
PLease help...
I have a 2003 s-10 4 door pick up.
The problem just started about a month an half ago.
When I go to start the truck it is taking about 10 sec's to turn over and start. It only does this after the truck has sat for awhile : like an hour or more. If you stop and turn off truck and restart all is ok. I got about 31000 mile now.
Up to this point the truck with turn over and start in less then 3 sec's. I have talked to other owners at work and some are haveing the same problem. Any help or answer to the problem would be nice to now !!!!
steve

Tellico Plains, TN

#36 Jul 1, 2006
i have a 1991 s-10 blazer seem to be thowing oil some were around the remote oil filter. also very bad mpg for a s-10
Cade Woolley

Show Low, AZ

#37 Jul 3, 2006
This morning my 2002 VW GFolf was OFF and parked outside of a restaurant. When I looked out the window, my car was filled with smole and the inside above the visors had melted...what caused this to happen?
charles

United States

#38 Jul 3, 2006
i have a 2004 siverado with a 4.8 that i would like to change the clutch fan to electric fan can i buy all the parts over from the dealer.appx how much will it cost.
Rich

Chesterfield, MO

#39 Jul 6, 2006
I have a motor home "87" with a 454 motor in it. It back fires alot and sometimes is worst than other. I have been told that a different carborator will help and also help the gas milage. I don't know what to do.
Brian Pomona California

Santa Ana, CA

#40 Jul 6, 2006
I own a 2000 Chevrolet Suburban and last year, I had the parking brake pads replaced. This year, I had a Chevrolet dealership check the parking brake again and when the mechanic looked at the parking brake, the mechanic noticed a broken seal at the rear axle. I was told that I needed rear brakes replaced because it was affected by the leak in the seal, but I was also told I needed new parking brake pads again. Is there anybody else having problems with parking brake pads? I don't beleive it's normal for the parking brake pads to wear out so soon.

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