Looking at vinyl replacement windows ...
Rudy K

Los Angeles, CA

#155 Jul 16, 2009
Window pricing wrote:
Here are some window estimates that I have recieved so far. I have a few more estimates coming in and will post those too.
Estimates so far for 8 windows and 2 patio sliders(1 6' and 1 8'):
Anlin with Super Spacer, Argon and Low-e366
American Vision Windows $8,300
Milgard Tuscany with 3DMAX
OK MFG $10,000
Bodies Glass $7,800
A New View Window $7,200
US Window $7,250.00
Agressive $6,800
Door and Window Plus $6,600
Simonton 7300 with White Superspacer, argon and Low-e366
Unided Home Builders $8,200
Republic Windows $7,800
Bodies Glass $7,500
Door and Window Plus $6,700
Amerimax with Superspacer, argon and Loe-e366
Progressive $8,800
Hardy Windows $7,400
Door and Window Plus $6,800
Local window manufacturers
Brothers Home Improvement $7,400
Win-dor $7,200
Danjo Windows $7,100
Thanks for the pricing info. I had Sears out to my house and the salesman was pushing the Simonton windows and they cost over $1,000 a piece. Glad to see I can get them much cheaper. I did like them alot.
Jeff

Los Angeles, CA

#156 Jul 16, 2009
Katie wrote:
<quoted text>
Door and Window Plus sells Amerimax windows in Los Angeles. Bryan was my salesman. [email protected]
Thanks Katie for the contact and this forum for the good information. You just saved me over $800. I emailing Bryan my measurements a few days ago and just got the estimate from him for Amerimax, Simonton and Milgard. I will let you guys know how it turns out.
giterwelded

United States

#157 Jul 17, 2009
Thanks for being thorough. How are the choices working out for you?

Any distinct improvement in heat reduction in the summer?
Doug

Arcadia, CA

#158 Jul 17, 2009
For the money you can't go wrong with Simonton. Worth every penny.
Tim

Encino, CA

#159 Aug 1, 2009
Sean wrote:
<quoted text>
I am looking at Amerimax windows and most of my quotes are around $450 to $600 a window installed. The patio sliding door is around $1,500 to $2,000 installed. Prices vary greatly depending on the dealer. How much is Qualitex charging? I am also getting quotes on Simonton windows and patio door and their prices are a little more reasonable from dealer to dealer.
Qualitex had 3 different prices - 3 different quality levels from contractors grade, a mid-grade level with less virgin vinyl and more recycled, and then the top of the line. My quote came to $1100 per window for top of the line. The lowest grade was $700 per window. I thought it was too much. I want to get a few more quotes before I decide.
Jacob

Los Angeles, CA

#160 Aug 2, 2009
I have Simonton windows and have had no problems with them. I got them installed 2 years ago.
Maggie

Los Angeles, CA

#162 Aug 4, 2009
Does anyone know of a Simonton dealer in the valley who has Simonton displayed in the showroom? I'm in the market for replacement windows and can't find anyone who sells Simoton. I want to compare Simoton with Milgard before I buy.
Wendy

Arcadia, CA

#164 Aug 6, 2009
Maggie wrote:
Does anyone know of a Simonton dealer in the valley who has Simonton displayed in the showroom? I'm in the market for replacement windows and can't find anyone who sells Simoton. I want to compare Simoton with Milgard before I buy.
The only dealer that I have found that sells Milgard and Simonton is Door and Window Plus. They also sell Superior, Amerimax, PlyGem and some others. They will bring the windows to your house.

Here is the link so they will come out to your house for free.

http://www.doorandwindowplus.com/free_window_...
Wendy

Arcadia, CA

#165 Aug 7, 2009
Wendy wrote:
<quoted text>
The only dealer that I have found that sells Milgard and Simonton is Door and Window Plus. They also sell Superior, Amerimax, PlyGem and some others. They will bring the windows to your house.
Here is the link so they will come out to your house for free.
http://www.doorandwindowplus.com/free_window_...
You can also email them your window measurements if you don't want another salesman at your house. [email protected]
Maggie

Los Angeles, CA

#166 Aug 8, 2009
Hi Wendy.
Thanks for the information. I finally found a Simonton showroom in Westlake Village and was able to see both the Milgard and Simonton side-by-side. I really like the Simonton's trim frame style compared to Milgards beefy one. Now I just have to decide on either the Simonton 7300 or 7500 style.
Wendy

Arcadia, CA

#167 Aug 19, 2009
Simonton is offering a $25 instant rebate for each window and $75 for each door that is upgraded to meet the tax credit requirements. I found not all Simonton dealers know about it so shop around. One Simonton dealer I talked to said it was only for their A dealers. There is no cap on this instant rebate. I got a post card from the Simonton dealer with the details. The promotion is called Simonton is extending daylight savings. This promotion is only on the 7300 Simonton Series and 7500 Simonton Sliding Doors. The promotion ends October 2, 2009.
Maggie

Los Angeles, CA

#168 Aug 20, 2009
I was told by a Simonton dealer that the Simonton French Sliding Patio door does not qualify for the tax credit because the UF is not low enough.

Simonton offers the Super Spacer in addition to the standard glass package. Do you know exactly what the Super Spacer does and is it worth the extra cost?
Wendy

Arcadia, CA

#169 Aug 20, 2009
Maggie wrote:
I was told by a Simonton dealer that the Simonton French Sliding Patio door does not qualify for the tax credit because the UF is not low enough. Simonton offers the Super Spacer in addition to the standard glass package. Do you know exactly what the Super Spacer does and is it worth the extra cost?
I have been told the superspacer helps with keeping the heat and sound from coming into the house. I think it is worth the $20 extra per window. If you want a French Door that qualifies for the tax credit you should look at Amerimax. Amerimax only comes with superspacer and is much cheaper then the Simonton quotes I am getting. This is even with the Simonton $25 off per window instant rebate.
James

United States

#170 Aug 24, 2009
I have Superior Ultima vinyl windows in my home and am very happy with them. They are 3 years old and very energy efficient compared to my old windows. Superior service is pretty good. They came out and replaced one of the brass rollers that wasn't working right. I would buy Superior again.
Betty Tone

Huntington Beach, CA

#171 Sep 4, 2009
Simonton is a piece of trash. How can you even compare. Those of you like Simonton, you don't know what quality is all about.
For those of you that still searching to look for windows and doors, get at least 3 quotes and ask to see the cut out of the frame...and the thickness of the glass. Stay away from Simonton, Pella and Milgard...you are buying the name but the quality really sucks.
Good luck!
Campbell

United States

#172 Sep 5, 2009
I'm in the process of starting a blog for the fenestration industry, so this seemed as good a place as any to get started:

"Did you know that In-Home Window Salesman need to be licensed in the State of California? It's the law. I just found this out today after a salesman told me. Never knew this.

Salespersons Ė A salesperson cannot legally sign a home improvement contract for the contractor unless they are registered with the CSLB. "

Not quite:

"The following shall not be required to be registered as home improvement salespersons:
(1) An officer of record of a corporation licensed pursuant to this chapter.
(3) A salesperson whose sales are all made pursuant to negotiations between the parties if the negotiations are initiated by the prospective buyer at or with a general merchandise retail establishment that operates from a fixed location where goods or services are offered for sale."

I've been a manufacturing consultant for several years and work with one of the larger vinyl extrusion companies in the world, and I've seen it all.

One method I've seen sales people without retail showrooms use is to tell homeowners to make sure to check a retail salesperson's documentation (knowing they don't need it). It's a scare tactic, but that's what a lot of it's about. Just like the crap about the price being only good today. That's pure bull****. Certainly, manufacturers offer rebates, and there are expiration dates on promotions, but steer well clear of anyone who tries to hard sell you on-site in your home. Your rep should be asking you what YOU WANT, not telling you what YOU NEED.
Frankly, I hate salespeople and in any sales management position Iíve ever had, I would never hire anyone I wouldnít want to have come to dinner and meet my family. If a sales rep makes you uncomfortable, throw them out! If theyíre selling a high quality product, then thereís no need to resort to a hard sell.

This can be a very down-and-dirty business and you need to be very careful what you sign and know what you're getting when you do. Personally I would never buy a window from anyone who tried to sell me from a brochure or tiny sample case. Come on folks, this is like buying a car. Unless you know exactly what you want (indicating you've done some research first) would you buy a car sight unseen without test driving it? Ask to see in-situ examples in a showroom, prior installations, or even the factory. Every window has different features, so make sure you get what you want and don't trust a sales rep who tries to sell you what they want. It's not their house, it's yours, so make sure that they ask questions about what YOU want.

And absolutely check who will be doing your installation. A company doesnít necessarily have to have its own installers/contractors to be legitimate, but whoever does it needs to be licensed, bonded and insured. Another dirty sales trick is to claim that installers work exclusively for the company and that you shouldnít trust anyone who uses contractors. Thatís not necessarily the case if youíre buying from a company that is strictly a fabricator. A lot of times by not having contractors on staff (who are idle during down times, but being paid) they can pass the savings on to you. If they do use subs they should be willing to give you all of that information BEFORE you sign a contract and let you decide if youíre comfortable with them first or if you want to change to a materials only order and use your own contractor.
As for your contract, make sure that it contains all of the elements regarding your protection and rights to cancel. Hereís a link to what must be included:
http://www.lhfconstructlaw.com/CM/Articles/Ar...
Campbell

United States

#173 Sep 5, 2009
Continued...Donít sign your contract until you read that and make sure that all of the elements are included. If theyíre not, then you have every right to report them.
Also make sure to go through each line item and agree to what youíre getting. If you order a window with/without grids, but your contract indicates the contrary and you sign it, thatís on you. There arenít many companies who will give your money back when they show up with mis-ordered windows that you signed for, because theyíve been custom fabricated to your home and generally canít be resold.
Payment: for custom manufactured, supported installation jobs, 10% upon contract signing is normal, with 40% due at final measurement. The final is due upon completion with holdback allowances for missing items (generally screens). Some companies will demand 10-20% upon arrival on installation day, with the balance due at the end of the day, but that just seems to be a poor business practice to me. Donít ever let a company try to bully you into more money than you agreed upon in writing and any changes (theirs or yours) should only be communicated and agreed upon in writing.
As to what to look for in windows here are a few tips:
Vinyl - Go with Upvc, or unplasticized virgin vinyl. That method uses powder-ground titanium dioxide as the whitening agent (base vinyl is yellow and it all needs to be whitened). TD is a metal and can't be leached out by the sun, like the chemicals and polymers used to whiten other non-upvc vinyls. You'll find that most non-upvc vinyl windows don't warranty against yellowing, fading or environmental corrosion (LA Smog).
Glass - Double strength is a must. A lot of companies will claim DS, but give you 3/16" over 1/8" instead of 1/8" over 1/8" or just 3/16"/3/16". Give it a thunk and you can hear the difference. A company that spends the money up front for it can afford to warranty for breakage, because it's much harder to break. That cost should not be passed on to you because it can generally be absorbed by not having to accrue service fees.
Spacer - It's estimated that up to 80% of all IG units with aluminum spacers will fail. Look for Edgetech's Super Spacer (Swiggle or Intercept ARE NOT SuperSpacer!). It costs more, but same as with the glass, if it only fails 5% of the time vs. 80%, the manufacturer can afford to put it in.(Be aware that most companies will upcharge for it). Aluminum can't be bonded to glass, only sealed in. Aluminum, like glass, conducts heat and cold, but at a different rate, so the movement between the elements can cause the butyl adhesion seal to eventually fail. Super Spacer is flexible and will move with the glass expansion, not separating that adhesion barrier. It also counts as a seal in and of itself, so look for double/triple sealed IGUís. Aluminum spacer IGU's are considered a single seal.
Campbell

United States

#174 Sep 5, 2009
Vinyl thickness & chambers - A thin wall window is just that. It's more prone to cracking and generally the thinner the wall, the cheaper the window. 0.075 should be a bare minimum. As to chambers, think of a vinyl extrusion like layers during the winter: the more the better. A cheap Milgard will only have 4, the better extrusions will have 6-8. It all equates to durability and efficiency. If you're using Z-Bar retrofit in California you're likely going over stucco, so make sure to demand a double wall fin instead of single, which will warp over time.
Modular Construction Ė Your window should be made of modular elements, so that if an individual piece, like the track fails, it can be replaced. A lot of cheap windows donít do this and when a part fails you have to replace the whole thing, not just the part.
Glazing Ė A lot of contractor grade windows use exterior glazing (thatís what holds the IGU in place). Contractors love it, because when a guy breaks a window on a job site, they just call the window company and the glass can be replaced from the outside. All it takes is a pocket knife, although there is a glazing tool to do it. Whyís that a big deal? If I can take your IGU out from the outside, your locks do no good do they? Make sure you get interior glazing for your own safety...
Iíll add more if questions come in.
Campbell

United States

#175 Sep 5, 2009
Vinyl thickness & chambers - A thin wall window is just that. It's more prone to cracking and generally the thinner the wall, the cheaper the window. 0.075 should be a bare minimum. As to chambers, think of a vinyl extrusion like layers during the winter: the more the better. A cheap Milgard will only have 4, the better extrusions will have 6-8. It all equates to durability and efficiency. If you're using Z-Bar retrofit in California you're likely going over stucco, so make sure to demand a double wall fin instead of single, which will warp over time.
Modular Construction Ė Your window should be made of modular elements, so that if an individual piece, like the track fails, it can be replaced. A lot of cheap windows donít do this and when part fails you have to replace the whole thing, not just the part.
Glazing Ė A lot of contractor grade windows use exterior glazing (thatís what holds the IGU in place). Contractors love it, because when a guy breaks a window on a job site, they just call the window company and the glass can be replaced from the outside. All it takes is a pocket knife, although there is a glazing tool to do it. Whyís that a big deal? If I can take your IGU out from the outside, your locks do no good do they? Make sure you get interior glazing.
Iíll add more if questions come in.
Trevor W

Los Angeles, CA

#176 Sep 8, 2009
Cambell what window are you pushing? Sounds like another salesman to me. More misleading information from a window salesman no doubt. I was learning alot of good information for these posts until you started posting information that sounds like the last window salesman that was in my house.

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