Private natural gas well
Steve -Elyria OH

Oberlin, OH

#164 Jan 10, 2008
Somebody gave this name as someone who bails wells in the Cleveland area but I haven't tried. You may try Ken Miller Supply for advice also.

Ron Gibson <ragibsonpe@oh.rr.com>
Jeff Williams - Calgary

Calgary, Canada

#165 Jan 10, 2008
As you take a pressure drop over your regulator, the gas temperature drops and this is why it's freezing at your regulator. If possible, if you can run your pipe line at well pressure and take the pressure drop somewhere heated (home, barn), you can avoid this. Insulating will help. Methanol injection will also cure this - but I'm not sure if it has to be removed prior to being used as fuel.
Arther wrote:
<quoted text>
Hi Steve. I am wondering if you could give me any information on the water separator that you purchased. I am in east central indiana, and when it gets cold in the winter, our regulator at the well has frozen. we re-plumbed the well casing to the rest of the buildings on the farm(2 houses, an office & a shop) a couple years ago. I have been told that we have a water issue and just need to get it bialed (swabbed?). I know that it had this done about 10 yrs ago per the prior owner, but i don't want to keep having to do this every few years. When we redid the plumbing, we had 80-90# on the gage at the well. I am just curious if we can put a water separator in and let it get the water out as it comes from the well. I admit i don't know a lot about this stuff, but i reckon that is why i am here asking questions. Thanks.
Kerri Jaeger

Cambridge, MA

#166 Jan 15, 2008
Hi I have a water well that contains alot of natural gas I have been told Is there any information on how to tap and see if there is enough for me to heat my house? Please Adkgal@aol.com Thanks

Since: Jan 08

Western Pennsylvania

#167 Jan 15, 2008
New here and got some questions. I'm in western Pennsylvania and a gas well was just drilled 3200ft down. They estimate the flow to be over 2 million+ cfm free flow/day but caped head is only 15PSI. They figure gas is leeching out into a porous formation somewhere between the bottom and where the casing ends at 1600ft. They estimate the PSI should be over 100 and higher so in the nest few days the well is getting logged. They figure that the casing will need to be extended deeper. There's another well 800ft away that is 2800ft down and only has 15PSI head pressure but is making about $1500/month for the owner at 1/8 royalty and is considered decent for the area. Most of the other wells in the area are shallow being 1600ft and have compressors to get the gas out. Once they get the internal leak figured out.. they said it's going to be a very good well$$$. That said, this is all new and interesting and wondering where I can find geological maps showing the different sand formations and what depth they are located at?

thanks

Since: Jan 08

New Castle, IN

#168 Jan 15, 2008
Bill wrote:
<quoted text>Try insulating the regulators, many farmers just stack bales of straw around the regulator. Most likely the freezing is from expanding gases and just the right temp. outside.If this is the case a drip tank will not be a lot of help.Good to have though if you think the water will ever fill the casing and go into the line. The tank has a valve inside so that when fluid gets too high it shuts off the line sort of like the back of a commode
Bill,
We are going to get everything insulated and covered for the cold coming in this weekend and the rest of the winter. I am trying to figure out a safe and effective way to heat the shed that I am going to build around it this coming summer (if anyone has any thoughts, please share)! It had an insulated box built around it last winter, but still froze. Thanks for the tip, hopefully it won't freeze up again!
Bill

Mount Gilead, OH

#169 Jan 15, 2008
PA-Woodchuck wrote:
New here and got some questions. I'm in western Pennsylvania and a gas well was just drilled 3200ft down. They estimate the flow to be over 2 million+ cfm free flow/day but caped head is only 15PSI. They figure gas is leeching out into a porous formation somewhere between the bottom and where the casing ends at 1600ft. They estimate the PSI should be over 100 and higher so in the nest few days the well is getting logged. They figure that the casing will need to be extended deeper. There's another well 800ft away that is 2800ft down and only has 15PSI head pressure but is making about $1500/month for the owner at 1/8 royalty and is considered decent for the area. Most of the other wells in the area are shallow being 1600ft and have compressors to get the gas out. Once they get the internal leak figured out.. they said it's going to be a very good well$$$. That said, this is all new and interesting and wondering where I can find geological maps showing the different sand formations and what depth they are located at?
thanks
look for your state department of natural resources website. I'm pretty sure PA has one that should help.
Bill

Mount Gilead, OH

#170 Jan 15, 2008
Arther wrote:
<quoted text>
Bill,
We are going to get everything insulated and covered for the cold coming in this weekend and the rest of the winter. I am trying to figure out a safe and effective way to heat the shed that I am going to build around it this coming summer (if anyone has any thoughts, please share)! It had an insulated box built around it last winter, but still froze. Thanks for the tip, hopefully it won't freeze up again!
I don't know a safe heating system . If it only freezes once in a while you can remove the regulator and pour some alcohol in the regulator that will thaw and remove moisture. Be very careful shut off gas going to regulator and bleed the line .

Since: Jan 08

sheffield township, OH

#171 Jan 15, 2008
Bill wrote:
<quoted text>Are you located in Sheffield Township Ashtabula OH or West of Cleveland?
I don't know of any other than here, west of Cleveland...
john1226

AOL

#172 Jan 25, 2008
Terry wrote:
I Have a well In OK. Plenty of gas I Would like to run my car on CNG from my well. I have access to carbon fiber tank but no compressor.
Thanks Terry
Contact Tulsa Gas Technolies
In Oklahoma
john1226

AOL

#173 Jan 25, 2008
Contact: Tulsa Gas Technologies
In Oklahoma.
Steve- Elyria OH

Oberlin, OH

#174 Jan 28, 2008
I researched that issue locally (Northern, OH). The quote I received for a compressor and dryer was $11,000 installed. They also had a used CNG Honda for $7,500. The combined total is way out of my budget. FYI: all CNG conversions must meet and be tested to current EPA standards.

The residential unit that is available is called PHILL. I received a very informative letter from them stating all reasons their unit is not approved for private well gas. They are the same company that makes the heavier duty commercial units.

http://www.fuelmaker.com/

Please let us know what you find.
ExGovtAuditor

Gore, OK

#175 Jan 28, 2008
I bought a 7 acre place in Calhoun County, WV that is heated by a natural gas well. I'm on my way with a 26' Penske truck moving to WV from California. I know nothing about how the gas gets to the house (and I'm concerned that everything may not be hooked up safely). Do I need a plumber to check the connections? or someone that works with gas wells? If anyone has contacts near me, I'd appreciate a referral.

In the 30's my great-grandmother's farm in Putnam County WV had several wells drilled by a gas company. I think a lot of the local farms had the same situation. Some years the royalty checks were only the $12 annual minimum. Now I'm getting $30 to $40 per month for my .008 share I've inherited from her.

When I bought my place in Calhoun County, and found I had free gas, I researched CNG vehicles, and in fact just bought a Federal surplus F-150 that runs on either unleaded or CNG. Tonight I read my email, and found a very polite message from Fuelmaker explaning why I can't run my truck on gas from my own well.(Wish I'd read the fine print on their site before I bought the truck!) Is there any way to filter the gas to make it usable for a vehicle? Fuelmaker suggested that I could buy their smallest commercial model -- I have no idea what the commercial model costs, but it's surely overkill for my one F-150!

Enough rambling...it sure seems reasonable that states like WV and Ohio with large stores of natural gas should be in the forefront getting fueling stations established!
Bill

Mount Gilead, OH

#176 Jan 29, 2008
ExGovtAuditor wrote:
I bought a 7 acre place in Calhoun County, WV that is heated by a natural gas well. I'm on my way with a 26' Penske truck moving to WV from California. I know nothing about how the gas gets to the house (and I'm concerned that everything may not be hooked up safely). Do I need a plumber to check the connections? or someone that works with gas wells? If anyone has contacts near me, I'd appreciate a referral.
In the 30's my great-grandmother's farm in Putnam County WV had several wells drilled by a gas company. I think a lot of the local farms had the same situation. Some years the royalty checks were only the $12 annual minimum. Now I'm getting $30 to $40 per month for my .008 share I've inherited from her.
When I bought my place in Calhoun County, and found I had free gas, I researched CNG vehicles, and in fact just bought a Federal surplus F-150 that runs on either unleaded or CNG. Tonight I read my email, and found a very polite message from Fuelmaker explaning why I can't run my truck on gas from my own well.(Wish I'd read the fine print on their site before I bought the truck!) Is there any way to filter the gas to make it usable for a vehicle? Fuelmaker suggested that I could buy their smallest commercial model -- I have no idea what the commercial model costs, but it's surely overkill for my one F-150!
Enough rambling...it sure seems reasonable that states like WV and Ohio with large stores of natural gas should be in the forefront getting fueling stations established!
when looking for leaks just spray liquid soap mixed with water around the joints.If you replace any metal pipe use black pipe. A plumber should be able to do this. Your setup may look like this. At the well a shutoff valve, then a drip tank (not always neccessary ) Now depending on pressure you may need a regulator called a "little joe". This lowers pressure to 30lbs or less. Then at the house a pancake regulator that lowers pressure to household requirements.The pancake has a plunger that sometimes shuts off gas when a great temp change. Just pull it back out.If you need a long run they make an orange plastic pipe that is cheap.Here are some leads for supplies,they can also answer questions or reccommend contractors if you ask.
Miller Supply Weston WV : Gleville WV ; Cabin Creek WV ; Marietta OH I tried to give you phone numbers but forum wouldn't permitte it. You will have to use information. They are all Miller Supply branches.Should be listed under Oil Field Supplies
ExGovtAuditor

United States

#177 Jan 29, 2008
Bill wrote:
<quoted text>when looking for leaks just spray liquid soap mixed with water around the joints.If you replace any metal pipe use black pipe. A plumber should be able to do this. Your setup may look like this. At the well a shutoff valve, then a drip tank (not always neccessary ) Now depending on pressure you may need a regulator called a "little joe". This lowers pressure to 30lbs or less. Then at the house a pancake regulator that lowers pressure to household requirements.The pancake has a plunger that sometimes shuts off gas when a great temp change. Just pull it back out.If you need a long run they make an orange plastic pipe that is cheap.Here are some leads for supplies,they can also answer questions or reccommend contractors if you ask.
Miller Supply Weston WV : Gleville WV ; Cabin Creek WV ; Marietta OH I tried to give you phone numbers but forum wouldn't permitte it. You will have to use information. They are all Miller Supply branches.Should be listed under Oil Field Supplies
I can't believe how lucky I was to find this website, and how greatful I am to receive such a complete response in such a short time! We're still on the road to WV - tonight I'm in Oklahoma, but by Friday we should be in Charleston. Can't wait to get to the farm and look for the parts you described. Thank you so much! I'm sure I'll be back looking for more information, soon.
John

Syracuse, NY

#178 Jan 30, 2008
I would like some help. I live in upstate NY and have 2 gas wells on my property. One is hooked up to my house and runs my dryer only. The gas pressure is normally 80-100 pounds of pressure but will drop to 20 pounds after 3 loads of laundry. There is 3 casings at the well. 12", 8", and 2". There is always water coming out between the 8" and 2" pipes. The line may be cracked down a ways and allows water to get inside. Is there anyone around central NY that fixes these? Thanks
Don

United States

#179 Jan 30, 2008
I have been told that a natural gas furnace will not work with a private gas well. That the orifice needs to be a different size. We have even read the literature on natural gas furnaces that state not to be used with Wellhead gas. Our old farm house has an old gas line in basement that has been capped for 50+ years. My wife's grandparents used the gas for lights. I would like to try to use it for heating my workshop. Any comment or advice would be appreciated.
Bill

Mount Gilead, OH

#180 Jan 30, 2008
Don, you know what you read. If I would have just heard that I wouldn't think it true. This must be one of the new high efficient furnaces,but I still don't understand why.I know many people that heat with furnaces right from the wellhead. I recently installed vent-free gas logs,they work fine.I have also installed a dryer,water heater, stove,furnace and in a workshop 2 overhead Modine 100,000 btu heaters.With the gas logs I had to close the shut off just a little to control size of pilot .I am guessing that the manufacturer is putting that in literature to avoid liability in cases of bad installation.
Matt

AOL

#181 Jan 31, 2008
Just purchased a home with a natural gas well so i think ,Per the old owner. can some one tell me what to look for? and how to hook it up?, so it can be utilized. This is a foreign subject to me and need ample info... Can tell you there is a plastic line right next to my existing well but it`s open and not capped Also have sandy soil if that means anything
Help.......badrunabout@aol.com Thanks in advance ,Matt
sandy

Canton, OH

#182 Feb 2, 2008
we have and old gas well that's been on our property for years. But our regulator get water in to and freezes up and we lose pressure. We really don't know much about it and a local place isnt much help. I know there are I think water separator? Or are they called something else and where can I find one? estutt@adelphia.net
Bill

Mount Gilead, OH

#183 Feb 2, 2008
sandy wrote:
we have and old gas well that's been on our property for years. But our regulator get water in to and freezes up and we lose pressure. We really don't know much about it and a local place isnt much help. I know there are I think water separator? Or are they called something else and where can I find one? estutt@adelphia.net
Are you really in Euclid? Surprised you would have a private well there. Try taking off the regulator and pouring some alcohol inside and pouring out excess. This may solve problem. There are drip tanks available. The closest location would be in Jefferson Oh.

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