Private natural gas well
Well on my new property

Akron, OH

#528 Jan 12, 2011
Bill wrote:
<quoted text>could you describe the system that removes the brine?
Bill,

I opened my well and bled the gas off thru the large 2 inch line that fed the production side as well as the brine tanks. It blew very hard for about twenty five minute before subsiding to a low steady hiss. I didn't have time to leave it open unattended so I closed her back up and left it alone for about ten days. After about ten days I checked the well pressure and it seemed to have increased from about 110psi to over 120psi(even with the 1 inch line wide open to the house, i don't have a shut off to the house yet.) I am guessing that the automatic valve for the rabbit system is frozen from lack of use. should I cut it off and bypass it and would it be safe to cut off with a sawzall.
matt

Worthington, WV

#529 Jan 15, 2011
Usually when the temps are colder its hard for things to freeze- what I have experienced is that when the sun comes out and warms the line condensation in the pipe is formed and then freezes
chuck phillips

Columbus, OH

#530 Jan 15, 2011
gemaldo wrote:
Private gas well
My home well is 176 feet deep. The water comes up with dissolved gas, that put in a bottle, and allowed to rise to the top,can be burned off with a match. Is there a pocket of gas above the water that can be exploited for private use? Is anyone doing this?
gbg
if it was my water well i would buy a small air pump strong enough to pump air into the well water. recirculate the air in the well casing. you do not want to add out side air to the gas. this will bring the gas to the surface and thus fill the casing with pure useable natural gas. get a sealed water well cap to create a storage nit for the gas. drill and modify the well cap and pipe it to a heater or whatever. the gas well may be limited in its production. you mihgt have a steady flow of gas coming through the water. before using the air pump try sealing the well and see if it pressurises, if so you are good to go just drill pipe and use. dont forget to use a check valve for safety. good luck
anthony

Maple Grove, MN

#531 Jan 15, 2011
bjworkman wrote:
I have a tural gas well on my property which services my home. I have contacted a local gas company about buying gas from my well. They are interested and have started a contract, I was wondering if anyone could help me with common terms and rates on such a contract. The well has excellent pressure and no water. It is also producing oil. It is located in eastern KY. Thank you
Hey did you get an answer to this. I am asking the same question, if you figured anything out let me know.

[email protected]
Bill

Marysville, OH

#532 Jan 17, 2011
Well on my new property wrote:
<quoted text>
Bill,
I opened my well and bled the gas off thru the large 2 inch line that fed the production side as well as the brine tanks. It blew very hard for about twenty five minute before subsiding to a low steady hiss. I didn't have time to leave it open unattended so I closed her back up and left it alone for about ten days. After about ten days I checked the well pressure and it seemed to have increased from about 110psi to over 120psi(even with the 1 inch line wide open to the house, i don't have a shut off to the house yet.) I am guessing that the automatic valve for the rabbit system is frozen from lack of use. should I cut it off and bypass it and would it be safe to cut off with a sawzall.
The first gas that comes is above the fluid. After all the gas is vented there is a pocket of gas under the fluid and it moves the fluid out of the well.If the pressure is low and there is a lot of fluid it can take a long time.I have waited for over one hour at time. Problem with doing this is if you don't have enough pressure to move the fluid then you have to wait for the pressue to build up again, but that is about what you did when you blew the gas off.
Mel

Bronx, NY

#533 Jan 17, 2011
Bill

Marysville, OH

#534 Jan 17, 2011
anthony wrote:
<quoted text>
Hey did you get an answer to this. I am asking the same question, if you figured anything out let me know.
[email protected]
Contact your state Department of Natural Resources Gas and Oil Division to see rules. you would need liability insurance , and a state bond.Then find a sales line. This could either be an utility or another producer. You would have to lay a line to connect, if this goes over other land you need to get an easement.The well needs a separator a tank to hold fluid, meter and tubing in the well.If there is a lot of fluid you need a pump jack . There are also pressure regulators. Remember your well has to have enough pressure to overcome line pressure to sell gas.Example, if line pressure is 100 lbs and your well is at 90 lbs it will not sell gas. If it is 110 lbs you will sell a little gas.It all cost a lot of money and then problems arise that you have to know how to handle
Well on my new property

Jackson Center, PA

#535 Jan 18, 2011
Bill wrote:
<quoted text>The first gas that comes is above the fluid. After all the gas is vented there is a pocket of gas under the fluid and it moves the fluid out of the well.If the pressure is low and there is a lot of fluid it can take a long time.I have waited for over one hour at time. Problem with doing this is if you don't have enough pressure to move the fluid then you have to wait for the pressue to build up again, but that is about what you did when you blew the gas off.
So if I use a battery powered sawzall to cut the automatic valve out of the circuit do you think I will blow myself up?
Mel

Bronx, NY

#536 Jan 18, 2011
Bill

Marysville, OH

#537 Jan 18, 2011
Well on my new property wrote:
<quoted text>
So if I use a battery powered sawzall to cut the automatic valve out of the circuit do you think I will blow myself up?
I am not really sure what you are referring to by the term automatic valve.I would have to be there to decide what I would do. Just to give you something to think about, I don't recommend this , but I have a son-in-law that smokes while working around the wells.I mean open pipes where some gas is coming.
PS he has quit, been about 3 weeks without .
vince

Garrettsville, OH

#538 Jan 18, 2011
Peggy wrote:
I have a natural gas well on my property. We had it swabbed and when winter came we woke up every morning freezing and had to go outside and pull out the little valve on the regulator, which was brand new.
Does anyone know what is wrong with the well? We now heat with propane but use the natural gas for the rest of the house and it works fine. We are perplexed. Thank you.
I have the same problem. when ever the outside temperature raises, the gas shuts off, I then have to pull the the little valve stem on the the regulator at the house and then restart the furnace. this just started happening. the gas well and regulator are about 20 yrs old. any help out there !!
Well on my new property

Jackson Center, PA

#539 Jan 18, 2011
Bill wrote:
<quoted text> I am not really sure what you are referring to by the term automatic valve.I would have to be there to decide what I would do. Just to give you something to think about, I don't recommend this , but I have a son-in-law that smokes while working around the wells.I mean open pipes where some gas is coming.
PS he has quit, been about 3 weeks without .
I'll get some pictures some time this week if i can get back there.
Dennis

Hudson, OH

#540 Jan 19, 2011
vince wrote:
<quoted text> I have the same problem. when ever the outside temperature raises, the gas shuts off, I then have to pull the the little valve stem on the the regulator at the house and then restart the furnace. this just started happening. the gas well and regulator are about 20 yrs old. any help out there !!
I have the same issue with my gas well. When the gas goes through the regulator, the pressure decreases from the well pressure (60 lbs for mine) to several ounces that the furnace, water-heater, etc require. I was told that the pressure decrease involves the "refrigerant effect", which works on the molecular level like a loss of heat. The "sort-of" heat loss allows water vapor in the gas to freeze, temporarily blocking the line and causing the regulator to shut off the flow. I put a heat source in the well-insulated regulator enclosure, and it had no effect -- so I'm thinking this explanation might be wrong. Another opinion I gos is that in the cold weather, when the furnace is sucking gas long and hard, it depletes the available gas, taking the well pressure to zero. I read somewhere here that the regulator is designed to shut off the line when pressure goes to zero, so that when pressure returns, it doesn't allow gas to flow past the dead pilot-lights and into the house. Two theories, take your pick.
RBC

Niagara-on-the-lake, Canada

#541 Feb 2, 2011
Hello All, I have a gas well and it is functional but I still require more volume that it can provide. Has anyone ever stored or accumulated their gas in a tank?
Dennis

Hudson, OH

#542 Feb 2, 2011
I've looked into that. Compressing the gas into a tank requires very expensive equipment. My well runs a water-heater, kitchen stove and part time the furnace - and sometimes all of the gas is drawn off. My plan is to get a retired propane tank. A local guy re-conditions them and pressure test them to 250 lbs, ans sells them for air tanks. Pressure on my well is 60 lbs - maybe a 500 gal tank in line ahead of the pressure regulator will solve my problem, or at least help it. I would like to know how to calculate the BTU power in a volume of gas at a particular pressure - then I could figure the pay-back on the cost of the tank.
RBC

Niagara-on-the-lake, Canada

#543 Feb 2, 2011
Dennis wrote:
I've looked into that. Compressing the gas into a tank requires very expensive equipment. My well runs a water-heater, kitchen stove and part time the furnace - and sometimes all of the gas is drawn off. My plan is to get a retired propane tank. A local guy re-conditions them and pressure test them to 250 lbs, ans sells them for air tanks. Pressure on my well is 60 lbs - maybe a 500 gal tank in line ahead of the pressure regulator will solve my problem, or at least help it. I would like to know how to calculate the BTU power in a volume of gas at a particular pressure - then I could figure the pay-back on the cost of the tank.
The research I've done suggests that for evey cuft of gas you have in storage it will roughly equal 1000 BTU's of energy. If a reconditioned Propane Tank @500 gals holds approx. 66 cuft of gas(non compressed) then you have 66,000 BTU's of accumualated stored energy. After reading and searching most of this thread I cannot find any posts that have attempted this although I suspect it is already been done. My plan is to use a standard W.O.G check valve with a crack pressure of .5 psi and install it before the tank after the main well head's regulator and store 30-40psi in a 500gal tank. I'm hoping that when I use 40,000 BTU's and the pressure drops the production cycle of the well will fill the void and buffer my usage. Sounds good on paper but have not tried it yet.
Dan

Wallburg, NC

#544 Feb 5, 2011
Lance wrote:
<quoted text>
Do you know of any other properties around that have a natural gas wells available for sale?
Thanks,
Lance
[email protected]
Lance...
I have producing wells for sale...
[email protected]
Dan

Wallburg, NC

#545 Feb 5, 2011
Mark wrote:
do you know where i could purchase some small natrual gas prodcing wells in US, Canada or even Asia?
[email protected]
Cheers,
Mark
Mark,
I have natural gas wells for sale...[email protected] .com
Dan

Wallburg, NC

#546 Feb 5, 2011
I have natural gas wells for sale...producing in Kentucky...[email protected] yllc.com
Dan

Wallburg, NC

#547 Feb 5, 2011
I have producing natural gas wells for sale...[email protected] .com

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