2007 Camry - Rattling noise at idle

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Heath

AOL

#1 Jan 26, 2011
I have a 2007 Camry LE with 105K miles on it. I have had NO problems with this car - very pleased. Noticed last month a rattling sound when I started the car - went away when I start driving - stop at a light or stop sign - hear it again. No performance problems, runs wells, no warning lights on dash appear. I thought it may be a knocking due to using 87 gas. Started using premium (93) and adding fuel injector cleaner - seemed to decrease. Today it was worse than a month ago - still using premium gas, but never stopped to get a bottle of fuel injector cleaner.
Am I wasting my money on fuel injector cleaner additive? Any suggestions as the cause of the sound? I do NOT hear it outside the car, and it's not a rattle in the dash.
I've seen several similar posts stating they owner had to have a catalytic converter replaced - any idea of the cost for this? Others had to have timing belt replace - had these break all the time on a Pontiac years ago -$100 a pop - what should I expect this time with the 2007 Camry?
Thanks for any help!
Heath
Email: HeathMilligan@aol.com
liner

Patchogue, NY

#2 Jan 27, 2011
Heath wrote:
I have a 2007 Camry LE with 105K miles on it. I have had NO problems with this car - very pleased. Noticed last month a rattling sound when I started the car - went away when I start driving - stop at a light or stop sign - hear it again. No performance problems, runs wells, no warning lights on dash appear. I thought it may be a knocking due to using 87 gas. Started using premium (93) and adding fuel injector cleaner - seemed to decrease. Today it was worse than a month ago - still using premium gas, but never stopped to get a bottle of fuel injector cleaner.
Am I wasting my money on fuel injector cleaner additive? Any suggestions as the cause of the sound? I do NOT hear it outside the car, and it's not a rattle in the dash.
I've seen several similar posts stating they owner had to have a catalytic converter replaced - any idea of the cost for this? Others had to have timing belt replace - had these break all the time on a Pontiac years ago -$100 a pop - what should I expect this time with the 2007 Camry?
Thanks for any help!
Heath
Email: HeathMilligan@aol.com
I have a 4cyl Camry with the rattle. Turned out to be an idler pulley on the timing belt. Since I had 130K on it, the guy said might as well do the timing belt, idlers and water pump. It now runs like a top, not to mention quiet!
Mine was easy to locate the rattle, it was coming from the front (pass side) of the engine.
camry junk

Ellsworth, ME

#3 Jan 31, 2011
The 07 new and improved camry has a chain not a belt......
Im sure this rattle is "NORMAL" it is a toyota we are talking about!!!!!
Google 07 camry hesitation, this problem becomes "NORMAL" when the atleast three tsb's fail to fix normal problem!!!
im so surprised your 07 camry has made it to 105 k!!!!
Toyota is junk!!! Look at all the 2011 camrys with under 1000 miles on it traded back in at www.autotrader.com , wonder why????? must b the great resale trade in value you get from toyota!!!!! Joke!!!! google toyota resale value and b 4 you cry, Just remember it is a toyota!!!!
Heath

AOL

#4 Jan 31, 2011
liner wrote:
<quoted text>
I have a 4cyl Camry with the rattle. Turned out to be an idler pulley on the timing belt. Since I had 130K on it, the guy said might as well do the timing belt, idlers and water pump. It now runs like a top, not to mention quiet!
Mine was easy to locate the rattle, it was coming from the front (pass side) of the engine.
Thanks Liner - I appreciate the helpful information - and encouragement. What you described sounds exactly like what's happening with mine - even the location of the sound!

If you don't mind sharing, how much did all of this cost you?

Thanks again!
Heath
liner

Hicksville, NY

#5 Feb 1, 2011
Heath wrote:
<quoted text>
Thanks Liner - I appreciate the helpful information - and encouragement. What you described sounds exactly like what's happening with mine - even the location of the sound!
If you don't mind sharing, how much did all of this cost you?
Thanks again!
Heath
I can't remember exactly, but it was probably around 350 or so.
Heath

AOL

#6 Feb 2, 2011
liner wrote:
<quoted text>
I can't remember exactly, but it was probably around 350 or so.
Thank you again! I went to the Toyota dealership this morning - same as you - a water pump that was on it's last legs. During their inspection they also found that my front brake pads needed replacing, and that I needed spark plugs. Since I've ever had any break work, nor changed the spark plugs, I figured that was likely accurate. Also, I never got a letter about the "pedal recall", so I assumed my car wasn't part of the "Bad batch" - wrong - it was - but, they fixed 3 of the recalls (2 of them I had no clue what they were, but they're fixed now!).

Thanks again for your help - as soon as the guy told me he thought it was the water pump I just smiled because you were right on target.

It's driving and riding better than it has in a LONG TIME - almost as good as when I bought it in 2006.... and it's QUIET! ;)

Heath
Alex K

United States

#7 Jan 24, 2012
Surprise, surprise... my 07 has 195k and runs great and is still worth $3500. Can't complain about that.
camry junk wrote:
The 07 new and improved camry has a chain not a belt......
Im sure this rattle is "NORMAL" it is a toyota we are talking about!!!!!
Google 07 camry hesitation, this problem becomes "NORMAL" when the atleast three tsb's fail to fix normal problem!!!
im so surprised your 07 camry has made it to 105 k!!!!
Toyota is junk!!! Look at all the 2011 camrys with under 1000 miles on it traded back in at www.autotrader.com , wonder why????? must b the great resale trade in value you get from toyota!!!!! Joke!!!! google toyota resale value and b 4 you cry, Just remember it is a toyota!!!!
Camry lover

Saint Charles, MO

#9 Sep 15, 2012
I lve when people bash camrys when they know nothing about anything. I change my oil every 3000, change my coolant yearly along with plugs and belt every 50,000. Here I am with an '07 Camry with 187000 miles and it still runs as good as the day I bought it.

Wanna know what's a shit car? Fords! Over payed union workers put cheap parts on these American excuses for cars. Toyota lasts forever
Buddys 07 cam

Banning, CA

#10 May 21, 2013
Thanks for the info folks. My 07 has 230k and has a little hesitation but definatly a rattler. $350 or so is what im hoping or you'll see me under the shade tree with a DYI manual.
Jazz

Brisbane, Australia

#11 Sep 8, 2013
Heath wrote:
<quoted text>
Thank you again! I went to the Toyota dealership this morning - same as you - a water pump that was on it's last legs. During their inspection they also found that my front brake pads needed replacing, and that I needed spark plugs. Since I've ever had any break work, nor changed the spark plugs, I figured that was likely accurate. Also, I never got a letter about the "pedal recall", so I assumed my car wasn't part of the "Bad batch" - wrong - it was - but, they fixed 3 of the recalls (2 of them I had no clue what they were, but they're fixed now!).
Thanks again for your help - as soon as the guy told me he thought it was the water pump I just smiled because you were right on target.
It's driving and riding better than it has in a LONG TIME - almost as good as when I bought it in 2006.... and it's QUIET! ;)
Heath
. Well obviously people don't know bout camrys they are the best medsize car for its buck I have one for my wife and have had no probs the water pump is a normal fault on any model car to fail,its a service part which means it should only last 100 k my 07 altise is the 2.4 litre 4 cylinder and they are timing chains which means the waterpump runs on the drive belt which is very easy to replace ur water pump and drive belt . Another fact that can cause a rattle is also ur timing chains tensioners which there purpose is to tension ur timing chain which is non serviceable which means u don't need to replace ur timing chain as to why I brought for my wife the only thing u need to worry about with ur motor is replacing ur oil and using a good oil like semi syn type . That helps keeping ur internals of ur engine clean ,cause ur chain tensioners work on oil pressure so if oil is very oil bad in ur car it causes chain tensioners to dry out or block up causing tensioners to fail which causes rattle but that is more expensive to repair. Other facts of rattles are drive belt tensioner and pulleys which are easy to replace . It's funny wen people down carmys wen they know jack of ,most new cars these days are all ok due to new technology , I know it aren't a Ferrari but they are good cars if u have a good mechanic I'm glad that I am a mechanic and I know their r alot of shit mechanics that tell u wrong info it's sad but find u a good mechanic that I can trust and good luck Toyota are one of the best company's
Guillermo

West Hills, CA

#12 Oct 5, 2013
Hey not sure if you ever found the problem or not, I'm guessing its most likely the torque mount, that's the one that sits on by the right side strut and to the R/R of the engine. That one is usually the one to go first, could also be one of the other engine mounts, but I'm leaning towers that torque mount first, good luck.
bill Nichols

Albertville, AL

#13 Oct 26, 2013
To give your comment some context I have a 2007 camry se with 4 cyl that I bought new. Love the car. It has 145,000 miles on it and all I have done to it is standard maintenance and a battery. It does have the rattle referred to here but I diagnosed it today as the idler pulley (as it looks like others here have as well) which does not look difficult at all to replace. Did a toyota dealership or factory fire you or what?
Larry

Chelmsford, MA

#14 Nov 9, 2013
One of the primary culprits for a startup rattle on Toyota engines with VVT-i is the controller/actuator/cam gear. This device advances and retards valve timing by twisting the cam using engine oil pressure.

When you turn your engine off the cam gear loses pressure, returns to the retard position and locks with a pin. When you start the engine, oil pressure returns, pushing in the pin in which allows unlocking of the controller. The controller begins to move the cam towards advanced or retarded valve timing depending on operation conditions. Advancing and retarding cam is controlled by oil pressure. Oil pressure is varied by the "Oil control valve".

If the controller pin gets stuck at startup, you will hear a rattle until enough pressure builds up to unlock the pin. Less common, the controller can also get stuck at "out of phase" settings resulting in random rattles that come and go. Thats the key symptom, rattles that come and go. Not a knock or a rap, at rattle like a tin can.

What causes this? 2 reasons. 1 is a mechanical failure of the controller. There are TSB's for specific year engines that discuss this (late model v6). For earlier year vvt-i's, its more than likely deposits. Poor maintenance, not changing the oil on time, cheap oil, oil thats too thick and doesnt flow well. Clogged oil control valve, clogged oil control valve filter (a screen).

You can take the controller, oil control valve, and screen off and clean them manually, or try cleaning the entire engine via a cleaner or a motor oil heavy in cleaners. Fast flushes are not that effective, need something that works for a longer period of time. I've had success with Marvel Mystery oil. Add a pint towards the end of your oil change interval (use for 500-700 miles then drain). I also like Mobil 1 High Mileage oil. It has added cleaners beyond regular mobil 1. Takes 1500-2k miles to see progress. You should know by then if its working.
Debra in LA

United States

#15 Jan 30, 2014
Jazz wrote:
<quoted text>. Well obviously people don't know bout camrys they are the best medsize car for its buck I have one for my wife and have had no probs the water pump is a normal fault on any model car to fail,its a service part which means it should only last 100 k my 07 altise is the 2.4 litre 4 cylinder and they are timing chains which means the waterpump runs on the drive belt which is very easy to replace ur water pump and drive belt . Another fact that can cause a rattle is also ur timing chains tensioners which there purpose is to tension ur timing chain which is non serviceable which means u don't need to replace ur timing chain as to why I brought for my wife the only thing u need to worry about with ur motor is replacing ur oil and using a good oil like semi syn type . That helps keeping ur internals of ur engine clean ,cause ur chain tensioners work on oil pressure so if oil is very oil bad in ur car it causes chain tensioners to dry out or block up causing tensioners to fail which causes rattle but that is more expensive to repair. Other facts of rattles are drive belt tensioner and pulleys which are easy to replace . It's funny wen people down carmys wen they know jack of ,most new cars these days are all ok due to new technology , I know it aren't a Ferrari but they are good cars if u have a good mechanic I'm glad that I am a mechanic and I know their r alot of shit mechanics that tell u wrong info it's sad but find u a good mechanic that I can trust and good luck Toyota are one of the best company's
I must agree with this post I love my 2007 Camry I only have 84,000 miles on it and it runs great, its all about keeping up with the Maintenance and oil changes to keep any car running good. LOVE IT! LOVE I!
Jay

Tampa, FL

#16 Mar 14, 2014
Debra in LA wrote:
<quoted text>
I must agree with this post I love my 2007 Camry I only have 84,000 miles on it and it runs great, its all about keeping up with the Maintenance and oil changes to keep any car running good. LOVE IT! LOVE I!
I agree with you as well I love my 2007 Camry V6 I have 94,000 miles on mine and it runs great! Change my oil to synthetic, new k&n air intake, and borla exhaust for more of a throatier sound, and performance and fuel miles has unleach even more! Toyotas are known for their power train refinement and their reliability. There's a reason why they're still the best selling car in America.
Josh

Knoxville, IA

#17 Mar 26, 2014
I have an 07 Camry 123000 miles developed a low tone humm/rattle seems to be coming from the driver side cannot hear noise outside only in the cab. I've noticed it runs fine but when I press the accelerator I hear a clunk a little hesitation also once going down the road noise goes away but as soon as I let off accelerator it idles down and hear the noise seems to correlate with rpms 1200 and lower noise anything much over that noise is gone tend to be a DIY so any ideas would be great
Maria

Los Angeles, CA

#18 Apr 3, 2014
I have an 07 Camry. ABS & emergency brake light started coming on along w gas/rpm gauges fluctuating rapidly on a intermittent basis. When this would happen, the air condition would start blowing warm air. Took it to a Toyota dealership & was told there was a problem w the cluster panel. Nothing else was wrong w the car, however, Since the car already had 140k miles, I asked service advisor what else could be done to it to keep it in good running condition. He recommended replacing all 4 spark plugs, draining transmission and replacing 2 of the drive belts & I opted to do all that he recommended. After 7 days of having my car, I was informed that they were unable to fix the cluster as the replacement part they installed did nothing. They said it probably is the ABS sensor which the part alone would cost $1200. I couldn't afford it at that time so I declined the repair since they told me it was ok to drive the car until i can save up the money. Picked up the car and immediately felt that something didn't feel and sound right. Took it back, and told the service advisor and went around the block w him so he can hear the noise I didn't recognize & felt didn't exist until after they worked on the car. He told me that it was because they had rotated the tires after the oil change and since the tires in the front are almost bald, the car is now making that noise. He said that should stop after I replace the 2 front tires. Did that a month later and the noise is still there and getting louder. I notice the car would act weird while at idle. Took the car back to Toyota exactly 2 mos later and w less than 2k miles driven from the time they worked on it.. Found out my service advisor got fired. So a new person helped me and they took the car in to find out what's going on. Went back the next day bec technician wanted to show me what's going on. He says alternator is bad (directly connected to the belts they replaced) and there's a hose leaking in the engine. I asked if that was a result of the work the prior mechanic did because NO ONE mentioned anything about the noise or leak when I picked up my car. You would think someone would have noticed that after keeping my car for 7 days and directly working on that area. Of course it's being denied. They're telling me it could have happened after they replaced the belts "as a normal wear & tear" but when I reiterated that the noise wasn't there before and became apparent after they initially worked on my car tells me they might have screwed up! They said my problem was that I brought the noise to the attention of my service advisor and should have insisted on a technician to listen to it....then why are service advisors even there? I trusted my guy...now knowing I should not have because i have learned he got fired for doing what he did w me and to so many other customers. Do any of you know if an alternator can go bad after a bad belt replacement?
liner

Bellport, NY

#19 Apr 3, 2014
Maria wrote:
I have an 07 Camry. ABS & emergency brake light started coming on along w gas/rpm gauges fluctuating rapidly on a intermittent basis. When this would happen, the air condition would start blowing warm air. Took it to a Toyota dealership & was told there was a problem w the cluster panel. Nothing else was wrong w the car, however, Since the car already had 140k miles, I asked service advisor what else could be done to it to keep it in good running condition. He recommended replacing all 4 spark plugs, draining transmission and replacing 2 of the drive belts & I opted to do all that he recommended. After 7 days of having my car, I was informed that they were unable to fix the cluster as the replacement part they installed did nothing. They said it probably is the ABS sensor which the part alone would cost $1200. I couldn't afford it at that time so I declined the repair since they told me it was ok to drive the car until i can save up the money. Picked up the car and immediately felt that something didn't feel and sound right. Took it back, and told the service advisor and went around the block w him so he can hear the noise I didn't recognize & felt didn't exist until after they worked on the car. He told me that it was because they had rotated the tires after the oil change and since the tires in the front are almost bald, the car is now making that noise. He said that should stop after I replace the 2 front tires. Did that a month later and the noise is still there and getting louder. I notice the car would act weird while at idle. Took the car back to Toyota exactly 2 mos later and w less than 2k miles driven from the time they worked on it.. Found out my service advisor got fired. So a new person helped me and they took the car in to find out what's going on. Went back the next day bec technician wanted to show me what's going on. He says alternator is bad (directly connected to the belts they replaced) and there's a hose leaking in the engine. I asked if that was a result of the work the prior mechanic did because NO ONE mentioned anything about the noise or leak when I picked up my car. You would think someone would have noticed that after keeping my car for 7 days and directly working on that area. Of course it's being denied. They're telling me it could have happened after they replaced the belts "as a normal wear & tear" but when I reiterated that the noise wasn't there before and became apparent after they initially worked on my car tells me they might have screwed up! They said my problem was that I brought the noise to the attention of my service advisor and should have insisted on a technician to listen to it....then why are service advisors even there? I trusted my guy...now knowing I should not have because i have learned he got fired for doing what he did w me and to so many other customers. Do any of you know if an alternator can go bad after a bad belt replacement?
Sounds like you're getting a hosing from the dealer. At any rate, the answer is yes, if the alternator belt is tightened too much, it can ruin the alternator bearings in short order. Which would account for the noise you heard when you got it back. I'd look for a local garage that you can trust to work on your car. Ask friends, family, co-workers etc for a recommendation.
camrys rock

Plainfield, IL

#20 Apr 12, 2014
well put, I just turned 200k on my 07 with just changing fluids regularly. new struts and alternator at 100k runs like a champ
Mike V

Charleston, WV

#22 Jun 23, 2014
Larry wrote:
One of the primary culprits for a startup rattle on Toyota engines with VVT-i is the controller/actuator/cam gear. This device advances and retards valve timing by twisting the cam using engine oil pressure.
When you turn your engine off the cam gear loses pressure, returns to the retard position and locks with a pin. When you start the engine, oil pressure returns, pushing in the pin in which allows unlocking of the controller. The controller begins to move the cam towards advanced or retarded valve timing depending on operation conditions. Advancing and retarding cam is controlled by oil pressure. Oil pressure is varied by the "Oil control valve".
If the controller pin gets stuck at startup, you will hear a rattle until enough pressure builds up to unlock the pin. Less common, the controller can also get stuck at "out of phase" settings resulting in random rattles that come and go. Thats the key symptom, rattles that come and go. Not a knock or a rap, at rattle like a tin can.
What causes this? 2 reasons. 1 is a mechanical failure of the controller. There are TSB's for specific year engines that discuss this (late model v6). For earlier year vvt-i's, its more than likely deposits. Poor maintenance, not changing the oil on time, cheap oil, oil thats too thick and doesnt flow well. Clogged oil control valve, clogged oil control valve filter (a screen).
You can take the controller, oil control valve, and screen off and clean them manually, or try cleaning the entire engine via a cleaner or a motor oil heavy in cleaners. Fast flushes are not that effective, need something that works for a longer period of time. I've had success with Marvel Mystery oil. Add a pint towards the end of your oil change interval (use for 500-700 miles then drain). I also like Mobil 1 High Mileage oil. It has added cleaners beyond regular mobil 1. Takes 1500-2k miles to see progress. You should know by then if its working.
I change my oil religiously with full synthetic mobile one, my 07 Camry makes the rattling noise at low idle speed until it reaches a higher rpm.

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