1976 silver shadow II
Mike Mulvey

Littleton, CO

#1 Jul 25, 2010
I just bought this car, It has sat for 13 years. I drained the tank and got it running fairly well. Since then oil light has come on and then all four wheels are hydrolocked. I can crack a bleeder and brake fluid comes out with force. I did get air after letting bleed 20 seconds. brake level is full. Is this a safety or two problems. I did disconnect both oil sending units with no change. Now starts runs and dies. Help
Mike Mulvey

Littleton, CO

#2 Jul 25, 2010
Oil is clean and full.
Ally Phillips

Montgomery, UK

#3 Jul 27, 2010
bleed brakes with engine running, did you get the car to move at all,if you did not it may be that the pads are stuck to the discs which can be released with a crack with a hammer.Check the oil level in the pots of the carbs if the pistons are not making a squellchy noise top up with 3 in 1 oil.

Malmö, Sweden

#5 Aug 20, 2010
Fuel pump for a 1977 Silver Shadow II

Hello, I have a Rolls Royce Silver Shadow II 1977 with, as I understand, a twin pump that sits a short distance in from the right rear tire seen. The problem I have is that it does not seem to work. Last year the car was started after standing still for approximately seven years in a heated garage. The car would not start at the beginning, after many attempts. Got the tip to buy a battery with more amp-hours which solved the problem and the petrol pump started to buzz when the key was on the RUN. When I later turned to its starting position, then pull the starter, the car started running. I then drove the car to two weddings which worked great except that the idle was too low at times when the engine stopped the instance. red light. Got to run some with the left foot on the brake and right on the gas while braking into a longer distance and the engine went into the yard, not really easy. Have long suspected that the petrol pump is not able to send up the petrol. Have noticed that it is only occasionally I can hear the petrol pump after I put the key in RUN mode. Most recently when I started the car th petrol pump worked maybe after 7-8 tests when turning the key. Then it was a gurgling sound and it sounded like it was uneven. We got the car under its own power out of the garage with some engine failure but after about 200-300m it just stopped. Now it wont start at all. The starter motor works well and the car sounds alert except that it does not start, of course. We have two paralell 12V 95Ah batteries in order to assure ourselves that there is power on the battery. Even tried a little tap on the petrol pump to no avail. Checked fuses. Have also suspect that there might be problems with voltage up to the pump. I would be very grateful if anyone knows how I should proceed or have any tips. And maybe if the pump is broken, were do I get a new one, and can I install this myself if I am reasonably handy. PS. Can you tow the car in neutral without the gearbox taking the rap. What to consider when towing.

Ps. Excuse my bad English

Expectant greetings
Jan Forrest

Rotherham, UK

#6 Aug 20, 2010
Assuming that the fuel pump is original it should be almost directly level with the rear edge of the front right hand door and is usually easy to fix. Normally it's just a matter of the motor contacts being worn or covered in corrosion. The proper sound it should make is a rapid 'ticking' which slows as the carburetor float chambers fill and generate a back pressure in the fuel lines. Often just tapping the pump barrel a few times *with something made of wood* will make it burst into life again, but only for a short time.

You have 4 options:

1) The most expensive is to find a 'new' original pump and fit it. Even used pumps can command a hefty price. Especially on eBay. They are available, but cost an arm and a leg! This model of pump was also fitted to some other cars - such as the V12 Jaguars of the same era.

2) You can locate a NEW electronic pump and fit that. I think they're made by Nippon Denso and are vastly superior to the original ones (Ps. they also make far better replacements for the starter motors). Each of them cost about half the price of the OEM units and have a potentially longer useful lifespan.

3) The second cheapest option is to remove the pump and fit new contacts. Still not cheap as each set costs about GBP35 (Euros40)+ postage and VAT.

4) If you don't mind a bit of work you can easily file the contacts smooth and refit them at zero cost other than a couple of hours of your time and dirty hands. Don't forget to plug the fuel line from the fuel tank or much of it can drain out onto the floor and become a serious fire risk. With luck they should last a year or two before you have to repeat the process.

Although it's OK to tow an automatic you have to keep your speed below 50mph (80kph) and stop for an hour or two every 50miles (80kilometers) or less to let the gearbox fluid cool down again. Alternatively you can disconnect the prop shaft and put it in the boot (trunk) until you reach your destination. Then you can safely tow up to the legal limit.
However, due to the weight of a Rolls Royce, it is better to move the car on a trailer or car transporter or, at the very least with the two front wheels off the floor. Don't forget: No engine means no brakes!

Roseland, NJ

#7 Sep 29, 2010
For the fuel pump, the points are not too expensive and pretty easy to change. I just put a new pump into my shadow, cost about $250, not to bad. I get most of my parts from Albers (Bentley of Zionsville) since he know mostly every part in these cars by their for name.

For the brakes, when you bleed them, not only must the system be at charge (engine on) but there is a specific order to the bleed points (about 13 of them,) specific to the year and model.

If they are always locked under pressure, one of the two brake valves may be stuck open. you will find them in the "rat-trap" under the driver's seat and you can see if one of the linkages is "down".

Also, the fluid MUST be changed periodically or it will decay in the system, potentially damaging the valves.

Roseland, NJ

#8 Sep 29, 2010

There are NO TOW POINTS on a silver shadow, period!!

The proper way to move it is on a flatbed and ONLY with wheel baskets. There are not chain hold down points that will not cause serious damage, not matter what the gorilla/operator tells you.

The exception is one of those trucks that hooks the front wheels from underneath, but only for very LIMITED DISTANCES as, even in neutral, that is running the transmission dry. Check with GM's recommendations for that for the Turbo-400

Toorak, Australia

#9 Feb 13, 2012
I have a 1978 silver shadow2 when running on petrol the car just stops after 8 to 10 kilometres and the oil pressure goes down it will start again after an hour or two and the oil pressure is normal again, I have L.P.G. fitted and the car runs well with out a problem and oil pressure is only down slightly when idling, the stopping only occurs when running on petrol.
Jan Forrest

Bradford, UK

#10 Feb 17, 2012
The petrol pump(s) have a cutout which turns it/them off if the engine oil pressure drops too low to avoid trashing the engine. The LPG system won't detect this, so you must check the oil pressure with an external pressure gauge to be certain that it's not just a faulty pressure sensor ASAP!
raul Villar

Sarasota, FL

#11 May 19, 2013
Was a given a 1976 Silver shadow Rolls Royce and the fuel pump needs to be replace, does anyone know how to fix it it and where to get one !!
Jan Forrest

Rotherham, UK

#12 May 22, 2013
The answer is further up this page.
Jamie Flood

Glasgow, UK

#13 Aug 17, 2013
I have a 1972 silver shadow1. The car will start up from cold with pump ticking fine. some time times on ideal it feels likes it missing but a quick rev and all is good. When hot and sitting In traffic the engine will run lumpy and then cut out putting the red warning light on you go to restart and will start fine for the first couple of times but then it sound like it has no fuel. Also when in does cut out it you give it some gas the engine makes a rattling sound take your foot f the gas it stops rattling. Help please.
Jan Forrest

Rotherham, UK

#14 Aug 19, 2013
From your description of the symptoms I would guess that the carbs need balancing. The procedure is outlined in complete detail in the relevant passage of the workshop manual


How long since you did a basic service? Plugs, leads, fluids, filters, etc? Any of the above can also exhibit much the same symptoms.
Jan Forrest

Rotherham, UK

#15 Aug 19, 2013
Ps. The Shadow 2 did not come on sale until 1977.

Dawsonville, GA

#16 Feb 13, 2015
How can i take off the gas tank of my rolls royce silver shadow 2 1977 car turns on when i put gas in the carburator but wont pump gas through fuel pump im guessing the gas tank is clogged up. Been sitting outside for 4 years
johnboy ruislip uk

Bilston, UK

#17 Apr 3, 2015
Hi i have a shadow 2 1977 got petrol coming from a pipe under front of car just in front of steering rackdone the usual hit the carb with a hammer how difficult is it to take carbs off
Jan Forrest

Rotherham, UK

#18 Apr 4, 2015
Carburrettor overhaul on a Shadow is no harder than any other car of the era. The carbs are standard SU units with only the throttle linkages being unique to RR/B.

By the way: Cutting out is usually a pump problem rather than a carb one. As such it's the dual pump that requires a gentle tap to unstick the points. Since the WILL stick again it's best to replace the points along with the condensors and sealing tape. New points aren't exactly cheap, but they are a fraction of the price of any adequate whole pump replacement.

Stafford Springs, CT

#19 Aug 25, 2016
I have a 1978 silver shadow2 when running on petrol the car just stops after 8 to 10 kilometres and the oil pressure goes down it will start again after an hour or two and the oil pressure is normal again, I have L.P.G. fitted and the car runs well with out a problem and oil pressure is only down slightly when idling, the stopping only occurs when running on petrol.
Hi Jan,

Similar question...78 Wraith II with Pierburg fuel pump
Car has been running fine, had carbs rebuilt and in process of reassembly mechanic tried to use fuel pump to run fur to hoses that he replaced to check integrity. He hasn't reinstalled the air intake which I understand is pressurized nor has he turned the engine over. The fuel pump does not engage. Could the oil pressure sensor be the culprit??


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