1975 Shadow RHD Brake Hose

1975 Shadow RHD Brake Hose

Posted in the Rolls-Royce Forum

Richard

Tarboro, NC

#1 Nov 1, 2011
While driving my 75 Shadow RHD this weekend, all of a sudden the rear end was all the way up. I noticed the low fluid light was on. Problem: rear rubber hose from the height control valve was pouring fluid. My question is after I replace the hose, do I need to only bleed the rear height control valves? The brake warning lights did not come on (and brakes seemed fine). Someone has said the bleed screws are difficult to get loose? Overall, any pointers greatly appreciated.

Richard
Jan Forrest

Rotherham, UK

#3 Nov 4, 2011
Sorry, I should have mentioned that the suspension and one of the brake circuits share the same side of the reservoir. If it is completely empty it is quite possible that air may have entered that brake circuit. Unless it's left for long the air shouldn't get past the accumulator and just bleeding the circuit at that point should be sufficient to keep you safe. However you don't want the hydraulic pumps to run dry for too long as they contain no seals since the pistons run in perfectly honed and matched cylinders. If you have cause to strip them down for cleaning it is vital that the pistons go back in the same cylinders or they will either fail to work properly or even seize up!

As for the bleed nipples rusting solid: I'm afraid that they do so all too often. When mine did I had to send both rear calipers to be professionally overhauled. Fortunately that's why I was trying to remove the bleed nipples, although I'd intended to do the work myself, so the overall cost wasn't excessively more than I'd budgeted for. If you can leave the car stood for a couple of days they will often free off if they're well doused in a freeing oil such as WD40. In order to ensure that it seeps as far into the threads as possible you should form a small 'cup' out of modelling clay and stick it securely to the surface of the caliper. If you've got it right you should be able to fill it with the freeing oil such that the nipple is completely submerged. Check it a several times per day to be certain that the level hasn't dropped too much and top up if necessary.
Richard

Tarboro, NC

#4 Nov 22, 2011
I replaced the hose hydraulic hose and did not have to bleed the system. I found out a Jaguar XJ6 69-73 was a direct fit (and works perfectly)! Thanks Jan for the information. Appreciate it!
Jan Forrest wrote:
Sorry, I should have mentioned that the suspension and one of the brake circuits share the same side of the reservoir. If it is completely empty it is quite possible that air may have entered that brake circuit. Unless it's left for long the air shouldn't get past the accumulator and just bleeding the circuit at that point should be sufficient to keep you safe. However you don't want the hydraulic pumps to run dry for too long as they contain no seals since the pistons run in perfectly honed and matched cylinders. If you have cause to strip them down for cleaning it is vital that the pistons go back in the same cylinders or they will either fail to work properly or even seize up!
As for the bleed nipples rusting solid: I'm afraid that they do so all too often. When mine did I had to send both rear calipers to be professionally overhauled. Fortunately that's why I was trying to remove the bleed nipples, although I'd intended to do the work myself, so the overall cost wasn't excessively more than I'd budgeted for. If you can leave the car stood for a couple of days they will often free off if they're well doused in a freeing oil such as WD40. In order to ensure that it seeps as far into the threads as possible you should form a small 'cup' out of modelling clay and stick it securely to the surface of the caliper. If you've got it right you should be able to fill it with the freeing oil such that the nipple is completely submerged. Check it a several times per day to be certain that the level hasn't dropped too much and top up if necessary.

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