electric window problems 1972 shadow 1

Posted in the Rolls-Royce Forum

raymond nichols

Noosa Heads, Australia

#1 Dec 7, 2010
i have recently purchased my first rolls royce , the front window operate down but wont go back up , is there a circuit i could get a look at ? anyone have similar problems , kind regards ray
Anonymous

Hungary

#3 Dec 11, 2010
had the same problem with mine.
turned out to be the switch that operates the window
seems that they have contact points that become corroded when not used
i located some second hand ones on ebay but although they looked identical they where different enough not to be able to use so in the end i just contacted p & a woods the rolls dealers in essex and purchased a new switch which was not that exspensive.
fitted switch and job done.
regards
alan
Jan Forrest

Rotherham, UK

#4 Dec 12, 2010
I forgot to mention that the original micro switches use tiny BA size bolts to connect to the power buses. This model of switch has been out of production for some years now, so if you can get original ones they will have to be 'new/old stock' or more likely used and therefore well worn anyway.
The closest replacements use different terminals which, although in the correct place need a little ...lateral thinking ... to be used. Fortunately once fixed in place they're at least as good and long-lived as the OEM components.
raymond nichols

Noosa Heads, Australia

#5 Dec 21, 2010
hi everyone , i have been busy solving my ELECTRIC WINDOW LIFTS PROBLEM , after having a very helpful meeting with KEN from rolls royce repairs in stafford brisbane , i removed the left hand front motor lift mechanism complete , placed it on my workbench , and stripped the motor part down , moisture had corroded the field windings on the motor , so i removed them , unwraped them and soldered new wires onto them , then cleaned and lubricated everything , ITS MAGIC ,
BROKEN WIRES BETWEEN THE DRIVERS DOOR AND THE BODY , on close inspection i found 7 out of 10 wires in the wiring loom were broken just after the metal forming sleeve that runs between the door and body ,
Also i replaced the radio speakers with new BOSS 140 WATT replacements , 10 minute job , giving a beautiful sound ,
To complete the door repairs , i am hosing out all the doors , and applying silicon spray lubricant to the glass felt slides , and re finishing the timber door tops with clear uv stable marine varnish....
WISHING EVERYONE A MERRY CHRISTMAS..REGARDS RAY...
Jan Forrest

Rotherham, UK

#6 Dec 22, 2010
Raymond: Congratulations on fixing the window lift motors and the door cables. They can be an absolute sod to locate and fix (don't ask!). However, if all you do is strip the door cappings etc., then sand smooth, wash, dry and re-varnish them they won't have the same colour(s). At the factory the different veneers of wood are given from one to three coats of stain(s) before the top coats of clear are applied. At the very least it pays to give them a coat or two of thin stain before going on to the clear coats. Teak oil works very well, but can take weeks to dry sufficiently in cold or damp conditions (ie. most of the time in the UK).
When I did them on The Old Girl I found that it was almost impossible to sand down each coat of varnish without breaking through to the wood on the edges, so I eventually gave them 3 separate coats between each sanding. At least I'm well content with the final results :)
thanks for the advise Jan

Noosa Heads, Australia

#7 Dec 26, 2010
hi Jan , i have sent your advise to my father in law who is doing the interoir timber , i have discovered a crack in one of the metal hydrolic lines in front of the rear wheels ( its has a slow drip leak ), i am not looking forward at fixing that one , it will be fiddley and dirty .
I am off to Japan for 3 weeks powder snow skiing on new years eve , so i will just top up the hydrolic fluids and tackle the brake job after my hollidays ,
Darren Niles

Buxton, ME

#9 Jan 12, 2011
I have also recently purchased a 1982 RR Silver Spirit and have a window issue. Mine will work sometimes and the seller told me he had luck resetting the switch on the Bosch relay in the panel under the glove box. That no longer works for me. I have read the 2 solutions here and wonder if mine sould be the door switch or do I need to clean the relay ( a friend with a Porsche cleaned his successfully).
ray nichols

Japan

#10 Jan 12, 2011
Darren Niles wrote:
I have also recently purchased a 1982 RR Silver Spirit and have a window issue. Mine will work sometimes and the seller told me he had luck resetting the switch on the Bosch relay in the panel under the glove box. That no longer works for me. I have read the 2 solutions here and wonder if mine sould be the door switch or do I need to clean the relay ( a friend with a Porsche cleaned his successfully).
hi , does your window lift have a round or square motor ? if its a squre one i have a few answers for you , kind regards ray
Darren Niles

Buxton, ME

#11 Jan 18, 2011
Well Ray, I have not taken the window apart yet as I was waiting for options hoping to avoid it, as I have no clue how to take the door panels off and am scared to break something. I guess I will look into how to take the panel off and see.
ray nichols

Japan

#12 Jan 18, 2011
hi darren , dont be afraid of a door trim , google tee one files , its a rolls royce self help group in australia , the photos and advise they give is detailed and very helpful....sometimes a bit scarey , its free and the best thing you will read on the internet....cheers ray
Gary Hillier

Leicester, UK

#14 Aug 23, 2011
Hi
I get my bits from Montagues, you can get a lot of info from them as well,nice to have some one that will actually go and check info for you.
Best Gary Hillier
Derek - new owner

Banbury, UK

#15 Jun 6, 2013
Hi, this is very interesting but please can you tell me how to begin - i.e. how do you remove the door cappings. Grateful for your help! all the best, Derek.
Jan Forrest wrote:
Raymond: Congratulations on fixing the window lift motors and the door cables. They can be an absolute sod to locate and fix (don't ask!). However, if all you do is strip the door cappings etc., then sand smooth, wash, dry and re-varnish them they won't have the same colour(s). At the factory the different veneers of wood are given from one to three coats of stain(s) before the top coats of clear are applied. At the very least it pays to give them a coat or two of thin stain before going on to the clear coats. Teak oil works very well, but can take weeks to dry sufficiently in cold or damp conditions (ie. most of the time in the UK).
When I did them on The Old Girl I found that it was almost impossible to sand down each coat of varnish without breaking through to the wood on the edges, so I eventually gave them 3 separate coats between each sanding. At least I'm well content with the final results :)
Derek - new owner

Banbury, UK

#16 Jun 6, 2013
Hi,
Can you please tell me how to take the door cappings off so I can re-finish them. Glad of any advice!
Regards,Derek.
Jan Forrest

Rotherham, UK

#17 Jun 7, 2013
How the door cappings are held on depends on the precise model and year of the car. However on most it's a matter of first removing the door cards. All the handles & other trim have to come off first followed by the retaining plate (Shadows) at the bottom. The screws are hidden behind finishing plates which have to be removed carefully as it's all too easy to break the thin retaining pins. After that the cards are held on with simple spring clips so you just pull a bit at a time all around the card to free it. Then the capping retaining bolts should be visible. NOTE. On some models there may be self-tapping screw going into the end which can be found on the lock end of the door.
alex

Bretteville-sur-odon, France

#18 Mar 1, 2014
Derek - new owner wrote:
Hi,
Can you please tell me how to take the door cappings off so I can re-finish them. Glad of any advice!
Regards,Derek.
I found a company who did the door capping's and weren't to expensive ther are as original and are lacquered
impracer

Leeds, UK

#20 Nov 21, 2014
I too have problems with my 1970 windows I have checked the wiring diagram and that is also complex my motors are the square type, have 12 volts coming through the wiring, the motor has 4 wires a green and a red wire plus yellow and yellow / black, whatever I try I cannot get the motor to drive in either direction, Jan forrest are you still about and have direct contact details s I'm sure you may have some knowledge I need to glean off you LOL
exodice

Salisbury, UK

#22 Dec 5, 2014
impracer wrote:
I too have problems with my 1970 windows I have checked the wiring diagram and that is also complex my motors are the square type, have 12 volts coming through the wiring, the motor has 4 wires a green and a red wire plus yellow and yellow / black, whatever I try I cannot get the motor to drive in either direction, Jan forrest are you still about and have direct contact details s I'm sure you may have some knowledge I need to glean off you LOL
Hi, the most important thing to remember on the electric Shadow window winder is that there is a solenoid on the end of the actuator that clamps down and locks the window in whatever position it is in when not energised. If you try to power the window it wont move unless the solenoid is actuated at the same time to release the clamp. You have a red, green and two yellow wires, one of which has a black stripe. Join the green to one yellow wire,( it doesnt matter which one). Join the red wire to the other yellow wire. Join the wires from the solenoid to each of these two wires. Connect these two bands of three wires to the pos and neg of a battery. The window will move in one direction. If you swap the two yellow wires around, leaving all the others unchanged, the window will go in the other direction. I have two winders where the window will only work in one direction and not the other ,and i have not discovered why. maybe someone has the answer.
Regards, Colin
Jan Forrest

Rotherham, UK

#23 Dec 6, 2014
Each of the window motors is controlled by a pair of twin pole microswitches. While not in use the motor sees 12 volts on both terminals. In use one terminal is de-energised and simultaneously connected to earth to make the window rise or fall. Reversing the current makes the motor run in the opposite direction.

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