rolls royce silver shadow
Mike

Scranton, PA

#44 Dec 14, 2011
Jon wrote:
Hi all, does anyone know where I can buy wooden door cappings for a 1973 silver shadow?

I have a 1975 silver shadow for sale have pictures E Mail [email protected] also have complete shop manuel on cd
Mike

Scranton, PA

#45 Dec 14, 2011
lu rice wrote:
I just purchased a 1975 long wheel base silver shadow..........I NEED HELP !!!!!!I can not open the trunk/luggage compartment .The key goes into the lock ,turns but will not open.I have tried the boot button in the dashboard glove box but to no avail .What am I not doing ???????I phoned the previous owner who said to just keep jigglig/playing with it.I am afraid of breaking the lock off .........HELP
I have a 1975 silver shadow for sale, Have pictures if interested E Mail [email protected] also have complete shop manuel on cd
Ron Lyons

Perth, Australia

#46 Jan 9, 2012
Hello fellow enthusiasts,I have recently become the proud owner of a 77'silver shadow, a present from my wife for my 60th birthday.
the car I have is in a good condition all doors open everything works so far and I love it.One fault is the rear bumper rubber has come away from the bumper and I would like to know the best way to attach the rubber, what type of adhesive etc would i use.
Jan Forrest

Bradford, UK

#47 Jan 12, 2012
I would be looking towards the use of a contact adhesive. With both surfaces cleaned up and completely dry you smear a thin layer of the adhesive on both and leave for 10-20 minutes to dry before pressing them together. If you mark the middle of both and start there the fit should be more even, but you will have to press on the rubber without any tendency to slide your hands sideways as there could be a slight stretching of the rubber trim which would leave you neeeding to trim it a either end. Note that many of these adhesives may 'grab' at the slightest touch and so prevent you manouvering the rubber into position if you get it wrong at the first attempt. Fortunately you can now get some of these in a form which has a bit of give before they stick tight.

In theory any 'super' or 'crazy' glue would give a stronger joint, but they don't have the ability to fill any irregularities in either surface and you could actually end up with a weaker joint.
jared

Lawrenceville, GA

#48 Jan 19, 2012
how do you remove the drive shaft?
Ken K

Roseland, NJ

#49 Jan 19, 2012
jared wrote:
how do you remove the drive shaft?
Un-bolt it from the rear end, unbolt the carrier in the center if the shaft, and pull it out from the transmission. It is just like any other large car. Use the correct torque values in a criss-cross pattern when re-bolting it to the rear end.
Jan Forrest

Bradford, UK

#50 Jan 20, 2012
Do you mean the prop shaft between the gearbox and diff or one of the drive shafts from the diff to the rear wheels?
Ken K

Roseland, NJ

#51 Jan 20, 2012
Jan Forrest wrote:
Do you mean the prop shaft between the gearbox and diff or one of the drive shafts from the diff to the rear wheels?
Jan, on this side of the pond, the drive shaft is the long thing from the gearbox to the differential. If you mean the "half-shafts" (diff to wheels) it is a bit more complicated.

behind the wheel (and swing arm) is a conventional universal joint. 4 bolts and the joint open. depending on the year, the half axle can then be pulled out of the constant velocity joint (either a "detroit pot" on older cars or a lobro on newer cars) after seperating the grease boot. I don't think that i could explain the difference between the two types of joints, other than most series I shadows (until 77) have detroit pots, unless they have been updated.

The real issue is one of reassembly, because, as you pull the joint out of the pot, a whole bunch of needle bearings are going to go flying. For re-assumbly details, you really should have the service manual.

Also, from behind the each rear wheel into the hub, is a "stub axle." removing this and replacing it requires about 525 pounds of torque, plus a new net (2 1/2" i think,) and lock washer for each tightening.

Let me know if i can be of further assistance.

Kenny
David Donati

Ventnor City, NJ

#53 Jun 6, 2012
I have a 79 silver shadow II and I want to refinish the wood on the door panels. where can i go to get step by step instructions on how to remove them. IM A NOVICE and a new owner. Please help
Jan Forrest

Rotherham, UK

#54 Jun 7, 2012
The wood door cappings are fairly easy to remove once you've got the door cards off. If memory serves the Shadow 2 cards are almost identical to the Shadow 1 cards. They are both held on with spring loaded metal clips that simply pull out of the matching holes in the door frame, but the Shadow 2 ones may have a single screw at the top of the handle side of the door. On some cars there is a metal plate at the bottom of the card which is held in place with 2 or 3 screws under the bottom of the door.

Now you can see and remove the small bolts that hold the cappings in place and lift them off. Again the Shadow 2 capping may have a single wood screw on the handle end. The remains of the existing lacquer is best stripped with any gel paint stripper and a plastic scraper to avoid scratching the veneer and then neutralised by washing with water. After this you will have to leave them in a warm (not hot or they may distort) place to dry thoroughly before proceeding to refurbish them.

Unless the wood has been damaged you can carefully sand them down with a fine sand- or emery paper and continue with one or two finer grades until the surface is perfectly smooth. Don't remove too much wood as the veneers aren't very thick and can soon be stripped back to the underlying plain wood! For true authenticity you would need 2 or 3 colours of stain, although since the cappings use more than one type of wood in the veneers a single stain will give different shades on each anyway.

The next and final stage is the most difficult. Apply a coat of clear varnish (?yacht varnish?) and gently sand it smooth before repeating several times. The difficulty is that you will tend to sand off ALL the varnish on the edge and will never achieve a buildup at that point. After several such attempts I stripped it all off and started again. This time I applied 3 coats - allowing each to dry inbetween - and only then sanded them smooth. After 3 such multiple coats of varnish I applied a final coat which, if I say so myself, has returned the cappings to a factory fresh finish.

Refitting is just a matter of reversing the removal process. However you may find that the card clips may not immediately line up with the holes and require a little jiggling to make them line up. With the cards off it's a good idea to check the lubrication of the window motor gears and door locks. A can of spray grease with a straw to guide the jet of lubricant is best for this.
Jan Forrest

Rotherham, UK

#55 Jun 7, 2012
Ps. There should be a waterproof barrier between the door cards and the door frame. It's difficult at best to remove it without tearing, so be prepared to replace it with new plastic sheeting. As there are quite a few holes in it to accomodate all the switches that pass through it you will need some 'fast tack' glue to hold it in place all around the periphery and especially around all the holes that you have to cut in it. Start at the top and work your way down, cutting and glueing as you go, for the best and easiest fit.
Sandpapering the doorcaps

Brewster, NY

#56 Jun 10, 2012
Avoid the use of emery paper or any metallic-based sandpaper, especially on bare wood, in this case, the veneer.

The metallic dust has a habit of lodging itself into the wood surface and the oxidizing (rusting) from the woods natural moisture, after the coatings are applied.

Non-ferrus abrehsives only for this! That means that brass wool is ok during the surface work.

For myself, i was taught to "wool" the surface after cleaning it off with paint remover (gel) and then use spray sealant (about 5 spray-on layers, sanding with 800 after each application.) Then, 5 to 7 coats of spray clear finish, this time sanding with a 1200 between coats, except for the last coat. It takes some practice until you get it the way you want it, so use some practice wood to start.

Also, there is a very good article on refinishing in this month's "Modern Lady," if you belong to the Modern Car Society (RROC).

Ken Koswener
1969 Silver Shadow (SRH-6895)
1959 Silver Cloud (SZB-203)
RROC

Ken K

Roseland, NJ

#57 Jun 11, 2012
Oooops, I forgot to mention: stain the veneer as appropriate, once you are down to bare wood, prior to sealing and clear-coating.
Jan Forrest

Rotherham, UK

#58 Jun 12, 2012
Regarding the vapour barrier between the door card and the frame: For best results and easiest fitting you should obtain a sheet of clear decorator's dust sheeting. Try to get a medium grade as the thin stuff tears too readily and the heavy weight stuff can be awkward to handle. With it being clear you can see exactly where all the holes need to be cut in it. Once each hole is cut as you work down the door you can put a bead of adhesive around each to prevent the barrier flapping around in the breeze.
Sam

Huntington Park, CA

#59 May 27, 2013
1) The lights on the dashboard of 1982 Silver Spur do not work.2) the radio antenna does not go up. Any one has an idea on fuses or methods to fix these problems. Thank you
Jan Forrest

Rotherham, UK

#60 May 27, 2013
On earlier variants (Shadows) there is a brightness control on the dash which may have been turned to minimum. Otherwise there are 3 'fuse panels' behind a hinged cover beneath the glove compartment.
DTR

Southampton, UK

#61 Aug 29, 2013
i have a Shadow II that I have not used on the road for a couple of years. She start up fine but the gearbox is not engaging when I put the selector in to a drive position.

The issue started to appear when I left the car in the sun for a period and only once it had cooled down would the gears engage again.

Clearly after a long stay in the garage the situation seems to be irrespective of the temperature.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what the issue might be?
Jan Forrest

Rotherham, UK

#62 Aug 29, 2013
There's a couple of ways of overcoming this problem. The first assumes that the battery voltage is low and requires you to boost it by shoving a few volts into the system via one of the cig lighters.

If that fails you can crawl under the back of the car, punch through the large rubber bung and reach in to flick the boot (trunk) lid catch. This one takes a lot of fiddling - if not loss of blood!
Jan Forrest

Rotherham, UK

#63 Aug 29, 2013
What???? That's not the question I responded to!

In your case I would check that the electronic gear selector gubbins are working correctly - or at all.
Jan Forrest

Rotherham, UK

#64 Aug 29, 2013
Oh, work it out for yourselves!

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