rolls royce cloud heating problems

rolls royce cloud heating problems

Posted in the Rolls-Royce Forum



#1 Dec 24, 2007
Im having problems with the heating in my rolls royce cloud 1. there is air blowing out but it's cold so i assume it's not the blower it'sself. under the right hand wheel arch the 2 pipes are warm going to the heater matrix, the flap are opeing as far as i can see.(turning bar manually from engine bay and can see it turn from under the grommet under arch) the car has air conditioning.
Any ideas? or could you send me in the direction of a forum etc
many thx


#2 Dec 28, 2007
hi Jeff
Ive recently bought a Bentley S111 with similar gives minimal heat to the screen and none as best I can feel to the lower.I would be interested of any useful information you may receive, and likewise I will let you know any of my experiences that might be usefull.


#3 Dec 28, 2007
posted on a rolls royce/bentley forum aswell, doesn't look like theres much like on there. was told it could be the flaps inside the pipes controlling airflow. but i can hear them opening and closing when i do it manually. Will keep you posted anyhow.

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Jan Forrest

Bristol, UK

#4 Feb 15, 2008
"the 2 pipes are warm going to the heater matrix"
Warm? They should be HOT! Too hot to comfortably hold for any length of time.
There are several possibilities for this:
1) The thermostat has failed in the open position (which is how they're meant to fail) and the engine is not achieving full temperature.
2) The heater valve is not opening fully - or at all.
3) There is a blockage in one of the the heater hoses. This could be foreign matter inside the hose or - less likely but still possible - one of the hoses has collapsed internally.
4) The heater matrix is 'gunged up' and therefore blocked.
5) There is air in the heater matrix.
To test each possibility:
1) Start the engine from cold and hold the top radiator hose. If the thermostat is good the hose will suddenly warm up when the thermostat opens and will rapidly become too hot to hold onto. If not the thermostat has failed and will need replacing.
2), 4) & 5) With a cold engine remove the hose from the heater valve and observe if water flows easily back out of it. Back flushing may cure 4) & 5) while only a replacement will cure 2)- remove both heater hoses and put a garden hose in the 'return' pipe. Ensure it doesn't leak too badly and flush through with clean water for at least 10 minutes. For best results when refilling the system (pre-mixed 50% anti-freeze solution) have the car facing uphill, although the flushing should be carried out with the car level or facing downhill.
3) Remove the heater hoses and attempt to look through them. This is rarely easy as they tend to bend around and a straight through look is difficult to achieve. Alternatively you could flush them separately and see how the water runs through them. Either way, if they appear to be old or showing signs of crazing or cracking externally they're due for replacement anyway.
Hope this helps,
Ken Minto

Houston, TX

#5 Nov 30, 2010
Gents surely if your thermastat has failed in the open position (this is for the S111) the engine will tend to idle a little fast as in partial enriched mixture coming from the auto choke/enrichment device because the engine isn't at its optimum running temp? This would then lead to even poorer m.p.g. I had same on my early T1.

Wrexham, UK

#6 Dec 23, 2010
Same problem. i've flushed the matrix in both directions, all clear. Bypassed the tap to ensure the flow of water. Pulled the ducts apart from under the wing and ensured upper flap's closed and lower one open. checked the fan while doing this, working fine. lower switch inside off and upper switch fully clockwise. thermostat has been changed and working correctly. But still no heat.??? a problem with the matrix? what could this be?
Jan Forrest

Rotherham, UK

#7 Dec 23, 2010
I can only think of one more possibility and that is that over the years the tubes inside the heater matrix have become 'furred up' with calcium carbonate that has come out of solution. The 'furring' could then be acting as insulation between the water and the metal of the matrix. This normally only happens in hard water areas, but after so many decades could still happen in areas with softer water.
Rather than replace the matrix you could dissolve the CC with a strong solution of citric acid. Adding about 300-500 grams of the crystals to the coolant should be enough to remove most of the build up if left in the system for a week or two of normal driving. It works far better when it is heated - as it will be with an engine up to full operating temperature.
After that time you just flush the engine, radiator and heater matrix (preferably separately) for at least 20 minutes each before refilling the cooling system with a 50% solution of your preferred quality anti freeze.
Don't worry about it damaging anything in the engine as the acid cannot do anything to pure metals although it will happily dissolve metal salts and calcium compounds. In weaker concentrations it is even edible!

Wrexham, UK

#8 Dec 25, 2010
will give this a go and let you know the results. lets hope for the best.

Peterborough, UK

#9 Nov 25, 2013
Has anybody found an alternative replacement for the heater matrix on a RRsc 3. I suspect my matrix is leaking as i can smell anti freeze in the car when the heater is used, similarly it gets damp under the carpets in the footwell of the front passenger seat.The heater does not get very hot so i am also thinking of replanting the heater pipes.
i am aware you need to remove the wing to replace the matrix and was thinking whether i good disconnect the old matrix and replace with a unit within the engine compartment

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