Ask the Auto Doctor

[Travis Lowe]

tommygunn wrote:

<quoted text>
Nothing happens at all when i turn the key. It doesn't try to turn over,it doesn't spin nothing no clicking no noise nothing.i just get battery power radio ect. I replaced the starter because I fig it was one of the easiest things to do first plus it was free brand new from ford.all u here is a click when you turn the key its not very loud, its in the trunk next to battery coming from the fuse box my budy heard it when i turned the key.

try checking the starter solonoid. if u jump the starter without hitting the solonoid the starter gear won't come out of the starter. so try jumping gthe solonoid with a wrench or something

[tommygunn]

Travis Lowe wrote:

<quoted text>
try checking the starter solonoid. if u jump the starter without hitting the solonoid the starter gear won't come out of the starter. so try jumping gthe solonoid with a wrench or something

All ready tried that. when I did that it just spun and made a winding noise does not try to engage. could it be a fuse of some sort or a relay. I also checked the negitive lines 4 the batt. and starter all good. help

[Travis Lowe]

tommygunn wrote:

<quoted text>
All ready tried that. when I did that it just spun and made a winding noise does not try to engage. could it be a fuse of some sort or a relay. I also checked the negitive lines 4 the batt. and starter all good. help

turn the key on and pop the hood and find the main fuse box under the hood and use a test light on all the relays in there.

[Auto Doc]

Leola wrote:

<quoted text>
THANKS, Had local dealer checkit out. He rest computer. Worked fine for about a week. Lights came back on. will have wiring checked out.

NO problem, hope it all gets fixed good!

[Auto Doc]

tommygunn wrote:

<quoted text>
All ready tried that. when I did that it just spun and made a winding noise does not try to engage. could it be a fuse of some sort or a relay. I also checked the negitive lines 4 the batt. and starter all good. help

It could be the starter selenoid. WHen they go bad, you just here a click or a grinding noise,and it won't let any current into the starter its about 20 bucks. Its worth changing it anyways. here is a link of what I am talking about
http://www.cosconline.com/5790_Starter_Soleno...

[Auto Doc]

TommyGunn wrote:

I have a Lincoln ls 2ooo that wont start. when i turn the key NOTHING. I get battery power that's it radio,power windows, lights all work fine. negative cables good to battery and starter just replaced started yesterday.tried to jump the starter with a screwdriver just spins wont engage. HELP PLEASE could it be a relay or something.HELP

How old is your battery? this may be the first thing you should have changed, I looked up and found that that cars like yours need a certain voltage to the coil, or else it won't crank. Try putting in a new battery. If your battery isn't that old, make sure everything is off, radio, lights, etc.

[Travis Lowe]

Starter problems.... got a 355 chev with a massive cam. we keep puttin starters on it. the starter will crank fine for about 3 days then it needs either shimmed or new bolts put back in the soinoid. could the vibration that cam causes keep cookin the startrs. possibly need a fliud filled balancer??? please help our baby

[Rick]

I have a 200 SAAB that out of the blue started running rough first thing when you start it, the engine light is on and the traction control off light is on as well? This all happened this morning?

[Auto Doc]

Rick wrote:

I have a 200 SAAB that out of the blue started running rough first thing when you start it, the engine light is on and the traction control off light is on as well? This all happened this morning?

is it turbo'd? There was a problem on the turbo's where the wastegate actuator had a clip would fall off and cause the wastegate to flap loosely, loss of power and a check engine light would illuminate. The fix was for a new clip to be installed.

I need more info though... it could be many things, could be a cracked vacuum line somewhere, making the engine stall.... and the lgiht comeing on.... hope this helped!

[Travis Lowe]

Travis Lowe wrote:

Starter problems.... got a 355 chev with a massive cam. we keep puttin starters on it. the starter will crank fine for about 3 days then it needs either shimmed or new bolts put back in the soinoid. could the vibration that cam causes keep cookin the startrs. possibly need a fliud filled balancer??? please help our baby

We found out the flywheel we bought is for a 78chev. the block is out of a 72 impala. we had to buy a starter for the 78 flywheel and put a nose cone off a starter for a 72 on the nwe starter. this car is nasty it will white smoke 26inch tires with the stock running gear. hope this tip helps any future probs anyone might have.

[Auto Doc]

Travis Lowe wrote:

<quoted text>
We found out the flywheel we bought is for a 78chev. the block is out of a 72 impala. we had to buy a starter for the 78 flywheel and put a nose cone off a starter for a 72 on the nwe starter. this car is nasty it will white smoke 26inch tires with the stock running gear. hope this tip helps any future probs anyone might have.

Man that is awsome, haha sounds bad ass man and glad you got er fixed!!!!!! That makes sense.

[Gabe]

Hello, I have a 2002 Lincoln LS V6. I recently had to replace the one coil and the gaskets because oil was leaking. I also had to replace the top radiator valve as well as the air quality control valve. Now, when i start it, it has low RPM's and it shuts off when i take my foot off of the pedal. What could it be?

[jjohnson]

I have a 1994 ford truck, 302 four wheel drive that will idle rough on dye?

[jjohnson]

ford truck idle problems?

[Auto Doc]

Gabe wrote:

Hello, I have a 2002 Lincoln LS V6. I recently had to replace the one coil and the gaskets because oil was leaking. I also had to replace the top radiator valve as well as the air quality control valve. Now, when i start it, it has low RPM's and it shuts off when i take my foot off of the pedal. What could it be?

Well who replaced the ACV? the valve? are you sure your getting electricty to that valve? Make sure you don't have a short anywhere, and that wires aren''t grounding were they aren't supposed to.
If its not the valve, then it might mean you need to replace the other coils.
First thing you should do is check the wires going to that valve around the throttle body, and connections. The valve might not have been the problem in the first place.

If its not the problem, then check your spark plugs that they aren't wet. They sit down pretty deep and if the gasket is leaking, all the oil leaks into the plugs.

[Auto Doc]

jjohnson wrote:

ford truck idle problems?

Sounds like an IAC or Idle air control valve, they had some problems with this. make sure connection, wires are fine. Replace it.

first clean your MAF sensor and check your throttle body, spark plugs. Make sure your getting spark to every plug.

[JBriley]

I have a 2003 Lincoln LS V6. Lately when accelerating, the engine cuts out and a wrench indicator light comes one. I'll put the veh in nuetral and turn it off and then back on. The wrench goes away and it runs fine.
I think I may need to replace the fuel filter and possibly the pump. Where is the filter located? and is it hard to change?

[JBriley]

Another question...I have a 2002 Ford Explorer V6. Anyone know where I can get a 4 wheel drive module?

[Robert Carothers]

My conoider valve is missing on my car.Where do I get one.

[Gabe]

Auto Doc, thanks for your comments and your were spot on. The idle air control valve did not need to be replaced in the first place, it was an electrical problem. Thanks a lot for your help.