Lincoln LS Owners: Problems & Solutions

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Created by schneider11 in the Lincoln Owners Club Message Board. Your Host is pat What is this discussion about? Lincoln LS, Sedan # 609 of 618 torque converter noise by chrisannr Feb 22, 2006 my mechanic says ...

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Frank

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#1148
Jan 14, 2011
 
Autumn Red wrote:
<quoted text>
Could be Frank. What parts should be replaced on a 2001 V8 with 49,000 miles and no chain noises at this time? Been running AMZOIL 100% synthetic since it was new and would like to avoid the self destructing tensioners. I have already replaced the valve cover gasket sets on both sides but wasn't aware of the timing chain issues until recently. No COP issues so far but for #7 cylinder missing due to the O ring failure. The valve cvr gaskts fixed that.
49K is pretty low miles. I don't think you should have to change anything. And you should have the newer style tenstioners. But you never know with the jagV8.
Airborne21

United States

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#1149
Jan 16, 2011
 
I have a 04 ls and the ABS light and traction control light remains on. Anyone know what that could be? Also while I'm driving at 60 mph and let off the accelerater, I'm getting a loud whine from the right side........?

Since: Jan 11

Brea, CA

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#1150
Jan 16, 2011
 
Frank wrote:
<quoted text> 49K is pretty low miles. I don't think you should have to change anything. And you should have the newer style tenstioners. But you never know with the jagV8.
I understood the 2001 (Built 8/2000) V8 had the defective tensioners. You are saying this era V8 might have the newer metal style? I wonder is synthetic oil vs. petroleum has anything to do with the plastics deteriorating?

Since: Jan 11

Brea, CA

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#1151
Jan 16, 2011
 
I wonder if synthetic oil vs. petroleum has anything to do with the plastics deteriorating?
Seth

Wapakoneta, OH

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#1152
Jan 16, 2011
 
Frank wrote:
<quoted text>The computer controls shifts. There was a TSB about reprogramming the trans for proper shifting. Or you could have a soliniod pack problem. You never stated if the new trans is new,rebuilt or junkyard with how many miles.
I bought the trans out of a perfectly running wrecked car with 45,000 miles on it. I had taken it to the local trans shop,and they changed the shift points and the computer changed them right back to the way they were. And I think that 2 transmissions have the exact same problem at the exact same points of the shift it possibly wouldnt be a solinoid. Should i try a new computer?
Frank

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#1153
Jan 16, 2011
 
Seth wrote:
<quoted text>
I bought the trans out of a perfectly running wrecked car with 45,000 miles on it. I had taken it to the local trans shop,and they changed the shift points and the computer changed them right back to the way they were. And I think that 2 transmissions have the exact same problem at the exact same points of the shift it possibly wouldnt be a solinoid. Should i try a new computer?
I can take your answer from one extream to another. Did you personally know the owner of the car(all 45K) and drive the car right before pulling trans did you see speedo said 45K? If so then trans is fine and car is telling it to do the exact same wrong things as old trans. If the shop reprogrammed trans and it switched back they didn't do the job. Or comp is messed up and reverts back to a base tune.Ford is the only place that I would think has the exact trans "tune" that FORD researhed to fix problem. Plus in first post you left out the fact that you had new trans reflashed. Why would you leave that info out?
Frank

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#1154
Jan 16, 2011
 
Autumn Red wrote:
I wonder if synthetic oil vs. petroleum has anything to do with the plastics deteriorating?
Its not the oil its that there PLASTIC. Would you want plastic nails,hammers,chains,engine blocks? Plastic weak,steel strong. LOL

Since: Jan 11

Brea, CA

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#1155
Jan 16, 2011
 
Frank wrote:
<quoted text>Its not the oil its that there PLASTIC. Would you want plastic nails,hammers,chains,engine blocks? Plastic weak,steel strong. LOL
Really? All kinds of makers use plastic/nylon inside engines and transmissions today. I believe all of them do.

From a chemical point of view, I'd think mineral oil would decay or make plastic brittle over time while I'm not sure if synthetics would. I had asked previously, what is recommended to replace in the timing chain department when it comes to the "defective" parts. All of the tensioners or just the secondary ones? Are all 4 of them defective? Are the chains defective too or just after the tensioners stretch them when they are derailed?

Also, where do you get your information? Are you an authority on Lincoln/Ford/Jaguar via employment with them etc?
Frank

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#1156
Jan 16, 2011
 
Autumn Red wrote:
<quoted text>
Really? All kinds of makers use plastic/nylon inside engines and transmissions today. I believe all of them do.
From a chemical point of view, I'd think mineral oil would decay or make plastic brittle over time while I'm not sure if synthetics would. I had asked previously, what is recommended to replace in the timing chain department when it comes to the "defective" parts. All of the tensioners or just the secondary ones? Are all 4 of them defective? Are the chains defective too or just after the tensioners stretch them when they are derailed?
Also, where do you get your information? Are you an authority on Lincoln/Ford/Jaguar via employment with them etc?
I will try one last time to explain. The BODY of the tenstioner is made from PLASTIC the piston is steel. The steel piston will move around and CRACK the PLASTIC also the PLASTIC wear shoe on the end of the steel piston comes "unglued" I know that alot of newer engines run plastic parts in there motor but they might have made those parts more ROBUST then jag made these tenstioners.When you do one broken part in there you should change all,if one went others are close to going.The chains are not a problem its all the plastic coated parts that break and fly off.I researched this for a year before I bought my LS and would only buy a V6 because of this. Also just put a new clock spring in your car will ya!!!
Seth

Celina, OH

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#1157
Jan 17, 2011
 
Frank wrote:
<quoted text>I can take your answer from one extream to another. Did you personally know the owner of the car(all 45K) and drive the car right before pulling trans did you see speedo said 45K? If so then trans is fine and car is telling it to do the exact same wrong things as old trans. If the shop reprogrammed trans and it switched back they didn't do the job. Or comp is messed up and reverts back to a base tune.Ford is the only place that I would think has the exact trans "tune" that FORD researhed to fix problem. Plus in first post you left out the fact that you had new trans reflashed. Why would you leave that info out?
It had slipped my mind about the first trans. I was there when they reprogrammed the trans, I know the shop owner personally. But when he changed the shift points it stayed that way until we drove the car as soon as it was put into d5 the programmer showed the shift points go right back to the way they were. So would it be the tune? or could it be a faulty computer?

Since: Jan 11

Brea, CA

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#1158
Jan 17, 2011
 
Frank wrote:
<quoted text>I will try one last time to explain. The BODY of the tenstioner is made from PLASTIC the piston is steel. The steel piston will move around and CRACK the PLASTIC also the PLASTIC wear shoe on the end of the steel piston comes "unglued" I know that alot of newer engines run plastic parts in there motor but they might have made those parts more ROBUST then jag made these tenstioners.When you do one broken part in there you should change all,if one went others are close to going.The chains are not a problem its all the plastic coated parts that break and fly off.I researched this for a year before I bought my LS and would only buy a V6 because of this. Also just put a new clock spring in your car will ya!!!
Thanks for explaining this as I haven't seen a tensioner yet and didn't know how the engineer in the straight jacket designed them. I'm going to guess but, the long (Primary) tensioners have the same problem and the short secondaries do? Looks like a huge job if the primaries have to be replaced.

Thanks for your wisdom.
Douglas Naaden

Milford, TX

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#1159
Jan 19, 2011
 
Christa Mills wrote:
<quoted text>
I had the same problem also. I put my car in the shop and $932 later they said the problem was fixed. Well I am having the same problem again. I think it is the coils on the left side going out now. Do you know if this is something I can change myself at home? I found a site( www.ford-parts.com ) that you can purchase the parts for little to nothing compared to what I paid the dealership.
Yep, I had the same problem twice. Ignition coils. First repair cost $700, second repair cost $600.
Under 40 MPH everything seemed fine, so I drove it until the ignition coil completely failed. When that happens it makes for a rather shaky ride. I am pretty sure replacing the ignition coils is not something a novice can just do at home.
Frank

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#1160
Jan 19, 2011
 
Douglas Naaden wrote:
<quoted text>
Yep, I had the same problem twice. Ignition coils. First repair cost $700, second repair cost $600.
Under 40 MPH everything seemed fine, so I drove it until the ignition coil completely failed. When that happens it makes for a rather shaky ride. I am pretty sure replacing the ignition coils is not something a novice can just do at home.
Changing the coils on a V8 LS is one of the most easy and fastest job ever!! The V6 are super easy on the drivers side but the intake covers the pass side ones so alittle more work removing top intake.
Ned

Peterstown, WV

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#1161
Jan 23, 2011
 
Have a '03 LS that has a Temp Control problem. I had the thermostat checked. its OK. It seems to be a Computer problem. Does anyone know if the Temp COntrol system has its own computer It will heat up normally when it first starts up, but then starts blowing cold air. sometimes the heated seats stop working and I have to restart the car to reset it. Just wonder if this is worth dealing with or should we trade it. I love driving this car. But is is below freezing right now and we need heat we can rely on.
SJP

Franklin, TN

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#1162
Jan 23, 2011
 
My 2003 LS has been out in snow for a week and wouldn't start at first. Finally got it started, but would die if I let off gas. Kept on gas for about 10 min, then it made a loud knocking noise and shuck. I never put it in gear----afraid to.
SOAM

Hollywood, FL

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#1163
Jan 25, 2011
 
Valerie wrote:
<quoted text>
What did you do to fix it? Mine is doing the same thing...they said it was the solenoid?
Turn your heater on full blast and ease up a little on the gas. Temp gauge should stabalize. Get an oil change that helps keep it from happening again.

Since: Jan 11

Brea, CA

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#1164
Jan 25, 2011
 
SOAM wrote:
<quoted text>
Turn your heater on full blast and ease up a little on the gas. Temp gauge should stabalize. Get an oil change that helps keep it from happening again.
Nice solution that won't help anyone. Turning on the heater is a temporary slight solution to a cooling problem providing there's coolant flowing through the system. Changing the engine oil? That's a new one.

The LS's have a pressurized coolant bottle located by the left hood hinge. It is known to fail where the seem/parting line is. Replacing it is recommended providing it has failed and then, you don't just add coolant and distilled water to the correct level. Once that is done, there is a bleeder valve located near the lower right side of this bottle used to purge the air out of the cooling system. If there is air in the system, the engine can overheat. The first thing I would check it the thermostat and the thermostat housing. They are known to fail/leak too.

Then there's the a/c heater issue when hot air blows out of the a/c vents with the a/c in the on position. This is from a malfunction of the damper doors within the air handler housing.

Could Lincoln design anything worse?
mark

Waco, GA

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#1165
Jan 25, 2011
 
I have a 2001 lincoln ls with a v-8 and my advance track light is on. what could be the problem ?? if anyone has any ideas please let me know thanks.
Frank

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#1166
Jan 25, 2011
 
Autumn Red wrote:
<quoted text>
Nice solution that won't help anyone. Turning on the heater is a temporary slight solution to a cooling problem providing there's coolant flowing through the system. Changing the engine oil? That's a new one.
The LS's have a pressurized coolant bottle located by the left hood hinge. It is known to fail where the seem/parting line is. Replacing it is recommended providing it has failed and then, you don't just add coolant and distilled water to the correct level. Once that is done, there is a bleeder valve located near the lower right side of this bottle used to purge the air out of the cooling system. If there is air in the system, the engine can overheat. The first thing I would check it the thermostat and the thermostat housing. They are known to fail/leak too.
Then there's the a/c heater issue when hot air blows out of the a/c vents with the a/c in the on position. This is from a malfunction of the damper doors within the air handler housing.
Could Lincoln design anything worse?
Autumn Red your brushing up on your LS facts nice!! Everything up top is correct. But the problem of hot air when AC is on is from a bad DCCV. Not a door problem. The DCCV job is to SHUT OFF hot coolant flow to the heater core when AC is on. The DCCV has 2 computer controled "floating" valves. These valves are cycled 100's of times a second to open a little or alot.(think of a huming birds wings) They are sensitive to dirt and junk so they jam. New DCCV is 125 dollars.
Frank

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#1167
Jan 25, 2011
 
DCCV is "dual climate control valve"

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