2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo stall...

2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo stalling problem

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IowaJeep

Springfield, MO

#1 Jan 4, 2009
My jeep has an intermittent stalling problem that my local Jeep dealer has been unable to duplicate. I have had it stall and die in all kinds of situations from highway driving to going slow in a parking lot. I have already replaced the battery, got fuel system cleaned, and had throttle and idle air valve cleaned. When they ran the diagnostics there are no codes showing even though each time it died my check engine light came on. Each time I was able to restart the jeep immediately? possible solutions? crank sensor? cam sensor? any idea would help thanks in advance.
Dan

Minneapolis, MN

#2 Mar 2, 2009
IowaJeep wrote:
My jeep has an intermittent stalling problem that my local Jeep dealer has been unable to duplicate. I have had it stall and die in all kinds of situations from highway driving to going slow in a parking lot. I have already replaced the battery, got fuel system cleaned, and had throttle and idle air valve cleaned. When they ran the diagnostics there are no codes showing even though each time it died my check engine light came on. Each time I was able to restart the jeep immediately? possible solutions? crank sensor? cam sensor? any idea would help thanks in advance.
I have the same problem, did you ever fix the problem. I've replaced the Crank and Cam sensors, Cat. Converter, Idle air control value, cleaned battery terms. and still stalls at cold stops. Periodically it will loss power while driving, typically on the highway, the motor won't die, but run really, really rough, with no ability to accelerate, I pull over wait 5-10 mintues, starts right up and away I go. Very frustrating. Any help would be of benefit. I've looked for the screws on the computer but mine don't have them.
Michael

United States

#3 Mar 9, 2009
Any progress on solving this?
davezilla

Earleville, MD

#4 May 21, 2009
Wow, I have the same issue. My 99 Laredo keeps just shutting down while highway driving. No rough running, everything going fine and off it goes. Sometimes I can put it into neutral restart and keep going, but sometimes, I have to pull over, put it into park and start it up. I suspect it's related to the transmission. Anyone out there have any clues?
kwork

High Point, NC

#5 May 28, 2009
I've got the exact same problem.
Any solutions???
Source-man

Washington, DC

#6 May 28, 2009
It's a common problem with 4.0L GC. If you're going to throw parts into it...the most likely are Cam position sensor, ECM, then Crank position sensor. Cam sensor easiest located right above oil filter. ECM is behind radiator over-flow tank. Apply dielectric grease to harness connectors while you're at it. I found REMAN ECM on Ebay for around $200. They program it to your specific VIN and mileage - plus lifetime warranty.
Jenna

Ottawa, KS

#7 May 28, 2009
mine is doing the same thing and were buying a new computer tried everything else
Cesar

United States

#8 May 28, 2009
I fix my 2000 Grand Cherokee one month ago, the problem is the Crank position Sensor. Try this: Turn your ignition key three times from Off to On ( do not start the car), the third time leave the key on ON position, if you see the code "P032" on the digital odometer your problem is the Crank Sensor, it cost about $60.00, do not spend any money on any others parts, just change the sensor. Do it.

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Meryl

AOL

#9 Jun 14, 2009
I brought my car to my mechanic and it wasn'stalling for two days. He said the car was fine. Today it stalled again. One day the car is fine and the next day it will stall. I just used Cesar's suggestion and the code PO32 came up on my odometer. I will show this to my mechanic. I hope it just the Crank Sensor. I will let you know.
GILBERT TUCSON AZ

Tucson, AZ

#10 Jun 25, 2009
I had exactly the same problem in my laredo 1996 4.0 I already fix it I tried every thing my problem was the connectors to the computer it got tree but the bad one was the closer to the engine. if you one to check for this and discard this problem just follow these simple step
1.- remove the plastic cover from the computer
2.- start your engine
3.- try moving the connector(s) from one side to other up and down if your engine stop or make any like is going to stop then that is the problem you should replace that connector, I bought one from a junk yard hopefully it helps
Meryl

AOL

#11 Jun 30, 2009
2000 Grand Jeep Cherokee Laredo. I posted on June 14 and today is June 30. I broght my car to my mechanic on June 15 and he put in a crank sensor. So far it has not stalled. Thanks Cesar for the suggestion. It only cost me $150.00 including labor. Now I am relieved.
Cheryl

Free Union, VA

#12 Jul 12, 2009
Cesar wrote:
I fix my 2000 Grand Cherokee one month ago, the problem is the Crank position Sensor. Try this: Turn your ignition key three times from Off to On ( do not start the car), the third time leave the key on ON position, if you see the code "P032" on the digital odometer your problem is the Crank Sensor, it cost about $60.00, do not spend any money on any others parts, just change the sensor. Do it.
no codes appeared only word "done".... suggestions
Cheryl

Free Union, VA

#13 Jul 12, 2009
no code appeared only word "done"
suggestions
Jim

Nashville, TN

#15 Jul 15, 2009
replaced the front rotors and pads. Now around 55 the left front tire feels like it's about to fall off. when I sotp and look everything looks good. The front brakes were smoking looked like my car was on fire. I took to the mechanic and he took it out on a road test and says that everything looks good. including the bearing? now I have a speed sensor is going bad and the check engine light is on. what should I do?
Larry

Guilford, CT

#16 Jul 16, 2009
Jim wrote:
replaced the front rotors and pads. Now around 55 the left front tire feels like it's about to fall off. when I sotp and look everything looks good. The front brakes were smoking looked like my car was on fire. I took to the mechanic and he took it out on a road test and says that everything looks good. including the bearing? now I have a speed sensor is going bad and the check engine light is on. what should I do?
The two are unrelated. You have a warped brake rotor. The PRIMARY cause for brake rotors to warp on *most* cars is overtorquing the lug nuts. I am a mechanical engineer, and I have verfied that this is the case. It usually happens after a brake job or tire replacement. The lug nuts need to be tightened to the factory spec (usually between 80-120 ft lbs depending on your vehicle).

The only fix for a warped rotor is to replace them. As for the burning smell/smoke. Sometimes that happens depending on how clean your mechanic was when putting everything back together. Of course, I am assuming the calipers are not dragging or you are not riding the brakes while driving.

As for the speedo issue, it probably is the speed sensor located in the side of the trannsmission case. You need to have the P code to know for sure. Go to AutoZone and they will hook up the ODB scan tool and read it for free.
Ariel

Lake Elsinore, CA

#17 Aug 24, 2009
Cheryl wrote:
no code appeared only word "done"
suggestions
I had the exact same situation with my Jeep. I replaced the throttle position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor. I also cleaned the leads to the powertrain control module (PCM).
joshua dulaney

United States

#18 Oct 15, 2009
IowaJeep wrote:
My jeep has an intermittent stalling problem that my local Jeep dealer has been unable to duplicate. I have had it stall and die in all kinds of situations from highway driving to going slow in a parking lot. I have already replaced the battery, got fuel system cleaned, and had throttle and idle air valve cleaned. When they ran the diagnostics there are no codes showing even though each time it died my check engine light came on. Each time I was able to restart the jeep immediately? possible solutions? crank sensor? cam sensor? any idea would help thanks in advance.
do you have the distributor or do you have the coil packs? i have coil packs on mine and it went bad. I would be going down the road and it would lose all power and wouldn't accelerate. I found out i wasnt getting enough spark to the coils. The coil packs are about 115$ new and i recommend getting it new
izzy

AOL

#19 Dec 15, 2009
my engine light is on and it shows p1494 on the diagnostic.does anyone know what that means?
Larry

United States

#20 Dec 15, 2009
P1494 is the code for the leak detection pump and or system, which is part of the early evaporative emission system.(Fuel tank fumes)
It’s there to allow the computer to run an integrity test of the fuel tank, lines and carbon canister’s ability to contain all of the fumes coming from the tank and all line associated with the system.

The code could be set for a number of reasons such as a faulty gas cap, cracked vacuum lines, solenoids & vent valves stuck to the pump itself.
It can be a very difficult fault to cure being it doesn’t take a very big leak anywhere in the system to set the code and that’s if it’s a leak and not an electrical or mechanical fault.

To rule out the gas cap being left off, make sure the cap is secure and have someone clear the code (i.e. Autozone with DRB-II scanner). If it comes back, then you need to have further troubleshooting of your evap solenoid.
Christian - WPB FL

Palm Beach, FL

#21 Jan 11, 2010
Larry wrote:
P1494 is the code for the leak detection pump and or system, which is part of the early evaporative emission system.(Fuel tank fumes)
It’s there to allow the computer to run an integrity test of the fuel tank, lines and carbon canister’s ability to contain all of the fumes coming from the tank and all line associated with the system.
The code could be set for a number of reasons such as a faulty gas cap, cracked vacuum lines, solenoids & vent valves stuck to the pump itself.
It can be a very difficult fault to cure being it doesn’t take a very big leak anywhere in the system to set the code and that’s if it’s a leak and not an electrical or mechanical fault.
To rule out the gas cap being left off, make sure the cap is secure and have someone clear the code (i.e. Autozone with DRB-II scanner). If it comes back, then you need to have further troubleshooting of your evap solenoid.
I have the same error code (P1494), however, my car is stalling and stalling often (3 times a day). It runs good as long as we're on the road but stalls if we idle for too long ( 5 or 10 mins). The mechanic has already replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, and injectors.

Any suggestions?

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