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sicnarf

Memphis, TN

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#1
May 7, 2007
 
I have been reading comments concerning the CR-V valve problems, mainly in the 1999 model. I'm starting to find this concerning. Does anyone know if these problems were corrected by 2003? I have an '03 model, and its owner's manual doesn't call for valve adjustments till 110k.

Thanks.
Terry In Ireland

Ireland

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#2
Jun 4, 2007
 

Judged:

1

Hi I Have A 07 Mark 3 Crv,Last Of That Kind,And I Have A Terrible Tappit Like Noise Comeing From The Engine. Its Only Got 13000km On Clock. A Bit Soon For Engine Noise !
Honda Are Not Giveing Much Away On The Matter,All They Are Saying Is Its Something Small.
The Engine Sounds Like Its Had It...
capsulecore

Tucson, AZ

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#3
Jun 13, 2007
 
I haven't ever had any trouble with my 97CRV, (241,595miles on it), but I have had a valve adjustment. Apparently what is done in a typical valve adjustment is not what should be done in a valve adjustment for a CRV. If i remember correctly, you have to loosen the valves rather than tighten them. Odd I know, but apparently it works. Not sure if this is the problem you are having, but theres my two cents.
sicnarf

Memphis, TN

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#4
Jun 18, 2007
 
Well, I'm not having any problems at all. I was just getting nervous with all the discussion about problems with the CRV valves. I think I've figured out that my 2004 CRV has a totally different engine than the earlier models. Everyone on this forum has been insisting on 30,000 mile valve adjustments, and my owner's manual says it's not necessary till over 100,000 miles. Thanks for your input.
Carl in Melbourne

Melbourne, Australia

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#5
Jun 18, 2007
 
My Honda CRV 2001 has 110,000 kms on the clock. When I start it up first thing in the morning it "rattles" for about 2 seconds then quietens down, when its hot no problems, The cam belt was changed at 100,000 kms and it has done this ever since. Any one have any ideas?
James

Kansas City, MO

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#6
Nov 26, 2007
 
Sounds like it is a timing issue. I don't know if the 2001 allow you to adjust the timing or if that is all controlled by the on-board computer. On my 99, you can advance or retard the timing by using a timing strobe light and loosening the bolts on the distributor.
Carl in Melbourne wrote:
My Honda CRV 2001 has 110,000 kms on the clock. When I start it up first thing in the morning it "rattles" for about 2 seconds then quietens down, when its hot no problems, The cam belt was changed at 100,000 kms and it has done this ever since. Any one have any ideas?
E nyc

Bronx, NY

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#7
Nov 28, 2007
 
I'm having issues with my 2000 Honda CRV (108,000 miles). My check engine light came on, and the diagnostic code came back as random misfiring of all 4 cylinders. I had Honda adjust the valves, but the MIL came back on. Then I had the wires, plugs and rotor replaced, but the MIL came back on again. This time, the MIL flashed 3 times and now remains steady. I've thrown $500 at the problem so far. What gives??? I've been reading something about the gas cap not screwed on tight enough after filling up the car with gas... HELP!
raul

Visalia, CA

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#8
Dec 5, 2007
 
Carl in Melbourne wrote:
My Honda CRV 2001 has 110,000 kms on the clock. When I start it up first thing in the morning it "rattles" for about 2 seconds then quietens down, when its hot no problems, The cam belt was changed at 100,000 kms and it has done this ever since. Any one have any ideas?
insufficient oil to valvetrain (low on oil), diluted oil (oil change), wrong type of oil grade (more miles rebuild or thicker oils), oil is thick when cold so insufficient oil flow such as low oil pressure, bad oil relief valve, and ofcourse you can do a valve clearance adjustment (cheapest route) after that your diging in for more issues.
raul

Visalia, CA

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#9
Dec 5, 2007
 
capsulecore wrote:
I haven't ever had any trouble with my 97CRV,(241,595miles on it), but I have had a valve adjustment. Apparently what is done in a typical valve adjustment is not what should be done in a valve adjustment for a CRV. If i remember correctly, you have to loosen the valves rather than tighten them. Odd I know, but apparently it works. Not sure if this is the problem you are having, but theres my two cents.
a valve clearance adjustment can require you to tighted or loosen the bolt because your putting in a feeler guage between the valve lifter and cam lobe. Under the hood is a measurement needed and look web on how to turn the crankshaft to Top dead center for each piston to adjust each corresponding valves.
raul

Visalia, CA

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#10
Dec 5, 2007
 
E nyc wrote:
I'm having issues with my 2000 Honda CRV (108,000 miles). My check engine light came on, and the diagnostic code came back as random misfiring of all 4 cylinders. I had Honda adjust the valves, but the MIL came back on. Then I had the wires, plugs and rotor replaced, but the MIL came back on again. This time, the MIL flashed 3 times and now remains steady. I've thrown $500 at the problem so far. What gives??? I've been reading something about the gas cap not screwed on tight enough after filling up the car with gas... HELP!
My mistakes working with cars have proven to me that you always check the easy and least costly things first and don't ever jump to thinking you need a new engine with out proper testing and diagnosis. Read read read on the issue more likely others have your issues......Yes, gas cap will indicate a code due to improper gas fume presure decrease. These gas fumes are controlled as not to leak in the atmosphere so they recirculate into a canister which has a sponge that to a limit by storing the gas fumes. These fumes seep into the sponge to later when you turn the car on or even if running the computer sends a signal to a little valve and tells it to release some of these stored to be ...I don't know yet burned or back to the gas tank...well you get the point if this little valve is is not working ..how does the car know?...the cars brain controls it...check the what is called the Fuel EVAP system and read read read...first test it if it works....one way is to check if pressure is released before you remove the gas cap...like a hiss after you go a put fuel in ..mine does it every time I run on low..or on hottt days...which is fine tell me cap is working and all is good there...If this don't work ...move to next suspected area...but remember simple things first...and don't go in desperacy to repair the whole motor...with out knowing for sure what the heck is going on...I mention this because you went out to spend 500 first instead of spending 30 bucks for wires or sparkplugs...
raul

Visalia, CA

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#11
Dec 5, 2007
 
James wrote:
Sounds like it is a timing issue. I don't know if the 2001 allow you to adjust the timing or if that is all controlled by the on-board computer. On my 99, you can advance or retard the timing by using a timing strobe light and loosening the bolts on the distributor.
<quoted text>
If it didn't exist before and then after the repair...dudes at the repair place could have forgoten to tighten something, plug some wires in, got some wire and accidently put oil on it, broke something, they didn't clear the trouble codes...read on this...simple stuff...Now about the timing belt...I did timing belts before...my first couple of timing belts done made the car shake why I asked?...this is what I did that fixed the problem..Firs of all...set your #1 piston to top dead center on the compression stroke cycle...very important...read read if don't have a clue....I bought a new timing belt...good kind...did not strech it twist it in any ways...because they have special microfibers for strength and heat/cold contraction and expansion...(mecanic can go bad here if don't understand this is important)....now that will not case much problems in short run but long run yes...now remove old timing belt by loosening a belt tentioner...this tensioner is spring loaded...remember springs loose their springiness with heat/cold changes...this is extremely important part because it sets the tension of this new belt...now alling all timing marks as shown on the mitchel repair guides...(repair guides mechanics use most often) don't rely heavily on small cheap books...consumers are limited on touching the guts of their cars... aligning the timing marks..read on this...now the belt is put on carefully..keep the timing marks alinged until you tighten the tensioner bolt and had put the timing belt on...the point of the belt is to always keep the timing marks in sync with each other....hence the word "timing"...in this whole process don't rotate of move the engine...from Top dead center of the #1 piston's compression stroke......Here is where you adjust the tension of the timing belt...loosen the timing bolt on the tensioner you previously tightened....a little bit enought for movement of this tensioner to occur...now rotate the engine two complete rotations of the crankshaft and you will check that all marks alling perfectly...the same this is the true timing mark alighment. Tighten the tensioner bolt and rotate two more times and it should align again..."alway only rotate in the direction of normal engine rotation" for my car it is counterclockwise...improper tension setting of the timing belt could lead to the timing belt skiping a tooth...and the car will....run stronger or run very weak or not at all...but it may idle but just shaky.....now shacky engine idle can be from other things......

I am not liable for any thing said here( this comment)...take your vehicle to a reputable ASE certified mechanic for proper diagnosis, evaluation and repair...

best of luck
Peace Observer

United States

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#12
Dec 9, 2007
 
My curiosity in this issue is HOW DOES THE COMPUTER KNOW to diagnose a valve is sticking or needs replacement. Can this be just adjust the valves for each cylinder or replace the whole thing like waht they did to my car?
E nyc

Bronx, NY

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#13
Dec 9, 2007
 
Peace Observer,
The computer diagnostic only displays trouble codes indicated that all four cylinders are misfiring or firing randomly. Of course, any number of things can do that, and, apparently, it is for me to figure out. So far, it's been an unsuccessful game of process of elimination with valve adjustments and replacements of wires, plugs and rotors not fixing the problem...
And, Raul, I checked the gas cap: there does NOT appear to be that hiss sound when I unscrew it before I go to pump gas--ever.
Peace Observer

United States

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#14
Dec 12, 2007
 
E nyc
Before and After the Cylinder Head was replaced on my car, I used a Mechanics stethoscope. It seemed not much difference after the repair. I dont know anymore. I hope you get your stuffs together with your car. Good luck
E nyc

Bronx, NY

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#15
Dec 13, 2007
 
In the end, we're at the mercy of the mechanic, aren't we, Peace Observer?
Russ

United States

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#16
Jan 10, 2008
 
I have a 1999 honda crv. When the engine is first started there is valve train noise for about 2 sec. Also every time the engine is shut down there is a vaccum leak noise from the engine for about 4 seconds, any ideas?? Last queston--what are the valve adjust spec, intake & exhaust. Thank you.
MICK

Falkirk, UK

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#17
Jan 12, 2008
 
I HAVE A 2000 CRV IT KEEPS GETTING EML ON SAYING MISFIRE NUMBER CYLINDER CHANGED EVERYTHING LIGHT STILL ON
Doug

Schenectady, NY

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#18
Feb 12, 2008
 
Carl in Melbourne wrote:
My Honda CRV 2001 has 110,000 kms on the clock. When I start it up first thing in the morning it "rattles" for about 2 seconds then quietens down, when its hot no problems, The cam belt was changed at 100,000 kms and it has done this ever since. Any one have any ideas?
I have had this happen 2 times exactly as you describe. You need to have the valves adjusted. Honda is playing games and these need to be adjusted every 30K miles.
It clears the problem up instantly. Honda has a little known technical bulleten out #03-038 on this. They do not like to warranty this as yet so as not to pay for repairs themselves.
Doug

Schenectady, NY

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#19
Feb 12, 2008
 
MICK wrote:
I HAVE A 2000 CRV IT KEEPS GETTING EML ON SAYING MISFIRE NUMBER CYLINDER CHANGED EVERYTHING LIGHT STILL ON
I have had this happen 2 times exactly as you describe. You need to have the valves adjusted. Honda is playing games and these need to be adjusted every 30K miles.
It clears the problem up instantly. Honda has a little known technical bulleten out #03-038 on this. They do not like to warranty this as yet so as not to pay for repairs themselves.
Alex

United States

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#20
Feb 19, 2008
 
I have a 2001 CRV that that been trouble-free for me - for the most part. The exception being last year - when the engine started to die every time I stepped on the breaks. I took it to the shop, and they adjusted the valves and it has run fine since then. I just took it in for a 75K service, and they inspected the valves and found all valves were out of adjustment. I was told that the valves had recessed into the seats, thus causing a tapping sound. The mechanic claimed I'd have to replace at least one of the heads at some point. Anyone ever heard of this problem?

As far as the other problems such as engine lights - I've never had these issues before.

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