Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & ...

Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

There are 524 comments on the story from Dec 4, 2005, titled Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions. In it, reports that:

I don't know if this will help, but I just did some radiator work on my '01 S-10 with a 4.3. You might have a cracked tank inside the radiator.

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United States

#83 Nov 29, 2006
boB wrote:
95 s10 anyone give tips or directions on replacing door hinge pins? will help you

Zoe, KY

#84 Dec 4, 2006
i want to get more power out of my 1991 s10 motor
and i dont want to supercharge it any seggestions

York, SC

#85 Dec 6, 2006
Todd Hazard wrote:
1996 Chevy S-10 2.2L Constantly dies no error code
This is a distributorless ignition system, with MPI fuel system. Sometimes runs for a a minute or so, sometimes just a few seconds. Dies abruptly with no sputtering. Scanner reads no error codes. Have visually inspected everything I can think of. Fuel pressure is within specs. Fuel regulator is working. Battery cables and connections at battery clean. When engine dies, dash lights come on. I'm at the end of my rope. Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated.
take it to the junk yard

Montgomery, AL

#86 Dec 7, 2006
2002 s10 v6 plug removal wrote:
I can't get a socket on the middle plug on the drivers side.
Take the driver side wheel off and go in through the wheel well. You have to move the steering column out of the way. There is one bolt that pinches the column to the connection at the steering box. Before you loosen the bolt mark the top of the column and the connection so you can line them up later. Then loosen the bolt and slide the column off the connection. Actually I had to use a hammer and a piece of steel rod to drive the parts a part. You can then move the steering column up and the number 3 spark plug will be in plain view. It sounds complicated but I got the whole job done in about twenty minutes. Good Luck AL
GMC Sucks

Frisco, TX

#87 Dec 7, 2006
I have had my 98 Sonoma for 3 years now and I have decided I will never own another GMC prodct as long as I live. Lets just say it is the biggest piece of shit ever. If you are thinking about buying one don't. Just walk to wherever it is you have to go. I promise you will be better off staying home and selling crack than you would be if your only other choice was to buy a Sonoma to get to work. I get the keys to my Honda tomorrow. Yes I said Honda. Thats right its not made in the U.S. but most of the parts that are in piece of shit GMC vechicles aren't made here either.

Bensalem, PA

#88 Dec 9, 2006
I have a 2000 Chevy s10 that is stalling on me and I have replaced the cam shaft sensor the catilatic converter and it is still acting up on me. Every time I turn on the heater it wants to stall then when i push the gas it makes this loud bang. Some one told me that my computer that is in the truck is not reading something properly that I have a short somewere. Can anybody help me?

Medina, OH

#89 Dec 9, 2006
bush wrote:
<quoted text>I got a idea scrap the piece of shit & buy a toyota,that goes for the rest of you.
To bad you are just low class,That can't even afford a new car foreign or home grown here,you type of people never happy in life,maybe you need to look into your enterself for the answer that you seek in life.

United States

#90 Dec 9, 2006
does anyone here know how to change the drum brakes on a 2003 s10 it has been a while since i had to do drum brakes

New Hartford, NY

#91 Dec 11, 2006
1999 S-10 ZR2. I am having problems with the push button 4x4. When I press the 4 high button the light blinks 5-8 times and kicks right back to 2 high. I cant get it to go into 4-high or low. Any suggestions of what this might be?

Rochester, NY

#92 Dec 12, 2006
Dick wrote:
What tool can I use to get the #3 cylinder spark plug removed from a 2002 S10 pickup.
I never found one. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from the steering linkage and swing it out of the way. After you have done it once, it takes 10 minutes total. Not a big deal. Just dont let the steering wheel turn when it is disconnected.

Chapel Hill, NC

#93 Dec 12, 2006
Mark wrote:
97 GMC Sonoma 4.3 standard. I noticed that when I change gears or put the truck in neutral, while driving. The idle stays rev'd. I've tried tapping the gas pedal but to no avail. It stays idling high until I come to a complete stop. I had to change out the brake booster recently. This problem occured before and after. I have a feeling it has something to do with the vacuum but am unsure where to begin. Thanks

High idling can be caused by a vacuum leak, hence the reason you may have thought to replace your brake booster. The brake booster works on a vacuum also. There are a number of vacuum lines on these vehicles. I replaced all of mine and my truck runs much better. Those lines are cheap - at about $.50 (50 cents) per foot. They are not made to last very long.


#94 Dec 12, 2006
2001 chevy s10 pickup 5 speed,idle wont come down while truck is moving but stoped the rpms goes up and down fine .

Charlotte, NC

#95 Dec 13, 2006
Randy, there is a little known fact that most newer autos have baffles in the tank, and when the auto takes a large hit those baffles will collapse and shut off the gas flow, perhaps you should check to see if your S-10 has such a beast contained within.


#96 Dec 13, 2006
]its control module on transfere case....800.00 dollars

United States

#97 Dec 15, 2006
1998 gmc sonoma 4.3 I need help on why it wont start. replaced cap, rotor, ing module it has gas going to it and spark but wont start. why?

Landis, NC

#98 Dec 16, 2006
Any chance the plugs on one side are fouling? I had a long-term problem with my '93 missing a lot and the plugs on the left side were always fouling. After I found one mechanic who knew what the problem was, I was able to confirm it with others. There is a spider assembly that sits on top of the engine under the top cover. It consists of two large plastic tubes for inbound and overflow gasoline, and then six tiny tubes to distribute gasoline to each cylinder. If any of those tubes breaks, gas is sprayed indiscriminately into whatever cylinder the spray happens to go. The large supply tubes are about $75 while the spider assembly is in the area of $300. In my case it was one of the large tubes that cracked, but it makes no sense to me to take it all apart and fix one brittle tube but not the others. I bit the bullet and my truck ran like a charm. lots of $$$$
kris wrote:
my 95 s10 will sputter and backfirewhen givin to much gas..........
i have replaced icm, coils,plugs,wires,egr,vaccum tested it,fuel pressure is 55 to 60 pounds,all scan tool data from tec 2 is reading on spec,new fuel filter, and checked all grounds. so now i am thinking it may be the injectors. if anybody knows what the hell is going on with please let me know

Landis, NC

#99 Dec 16, 2006
Anybody have problems removing the radiator drain plug on an S-10? I went everywhere looking for solutions and nobody seemed to have any idea what I was talking about. If you have that problem, your drain plug might be like mine. It is white nylon and looks like it has a large one-way flat screw top. Getting it out is simple once you know the right tool to use. Take a quarter inch drive short extension (without a socket on it), put in in the center of the plug and twist. You have to wiggle it a little to get it to back out, but it is pretty simple. By the way, it works a lot better if the engine is warm.

Hamilton, Canada

#100 Dec 18, 2006
Randy Sleight wrote:
I had someone do a small hit and run on my vehicle just below the gas tank 3 weeks ago, got bodywork fixed, but was still making noises and the first mechanic I took it to did diagnostic on the engine and said I needed new shocks. Replaced the shocks all around and still heard the noise this time with the mechanic in the car, he then said he thought he knew what it was. The dealership said that they had not lubed the ball joints the last time that I asked them to do this. They now said that was the problem, they did and oil lube and filter on the S-10 and then this week the truck does not run at all. Won't even cough to start and the gas gage goes negative when I turn the key. I had half a tank the night before and have put 2.5 more gallons in the tank by hand, still not starting, but the gage shows empty. This is my fourth Friday in a row that I am dealing with this truck. I commute almost 50 miles to work, so the Greyhound got old this week after taking a bus to that bus station and transferring. Any advice. I plan to have it towed back to the Chevy Dealership tomorrow again, I bought this truck new 4 years ago and it has 57,000 miles on it. I have it serviced every 3000 miles.
I have a 98 jimmy that had very similar problems with the fuel guage. I ended up replacing the in tank fuel pump after the whole no start thing. Worked like a charm but exspensive

Asheville, NC

#101 Dec 18, 2006
I have a 1995 Sonoma 4.3 vortec V6 auto. My problem is that when I get to around 45-55 mph the tac will fall from 2500 to 1000 rpm & then jump back and forth. when i get to 60 mph it stops. I want to try and maybe fix it myself or get an idea whats going on before i take the truck to the repair shop. Can anybody help me w/ this. I'll check back here or you can email me @ [email protected] & please make it obvious in the subject that you repling to this post. Thanks in advance.

San Antonio, TX

#102 Dec 18, 2006
Terry wrote:
I have a 2000 Chevy s10 that is stalling on me and I have replaced the cam shaft sensor the catilatic converter and it is still acting up on me. Every time I turn on the heater it wants to stall then when i push the gas it makes this loud bang. Some one told me that my computer that is in the truck is not reading something properly that I have a short somewere. Can anybody help me?
your problem is your fuel pump.

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