99 Taurus heat cools quickly after fa...

99 Taurus heat cools quickly after fan turned on (new thermostat didn't help!)

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im1believer

United States

#1 Nov 22, 2006
Before I pay the local Ford dealer a whopping $472.00 for labor only (parts extra) to replace the heater core, does anyone know whether a heat valve or other component could be causing the heat to cool down soon after fan is turned on? I can shut off the fan for 3-4 minutes and will have heat again for a minute once fan is turned back on. The radiator has been flushed twice because I kept getting rust in coolant reservoir within days of a fresh flush job. That leads me to think the heater core is nearly clogged, allowing very slow movement of hot coolant through the core and when fan blows across the coils it will quickly cool the core down until I cut switch off a few minutes. What have others experienced?
many thanks for any feedback!
im1believer
cool_n_tn

United States

#2 Nov 25, 2006
we experiance the same thing in our 1999 Ford Taurus... and with winter here... we are staying cool - unfortunately. I wish there was a way that the Ford Motor company would be forced to provide a recall on these heater cores they installed. I have found hundreds of complaints on the web... most are with the 1999 Taurs and the heater blowing cool air. from what we've found from others, the only solutions are to have the core replaced or have the CORE backflused by a radiator shop... it may take two flushings, but it must be the heater CORE (note the "cooling system" and not the radiator).
john show

Taylor, MI

#3 Nov 28, 2006
I own a 96 ford taurus with 267,413 miles on right now 5 sets of tires counting the orginals and 3 sets of shocks brakes done 6 times , tuned up twice change the oil every 5000 miles and follow the mfg suggestions , car still running great and use it to go back and forth to work since i got it , waiting for it to fall apart but just like that Pink RABBITT it just keeps on goin and going mad that ford wont make these any more best damm car my family has even been in
Jeff Te

United States

#4 Dec 3, 2006
im1believer wrote:
Before I pay the local Ford dealer a whopping $472.00 for labor only (parts extra) to replace the heater core, does anyone know whether a heat valve or other component could be causing the heat to cool down soon after fan is turned on? I can shut off the fan for 3-4 minutes and will have heat again for a minute once fan is turned back on. The radiator has been flushed twice because I kept getting rust in coolant reservoir within days of a fresh flush job. That leads me to think the heater core is nearly clogged, allowing very slow movement of hot coolant through the core and when fan blows across the coils it will quickly cool the core down until I cut switch off a few minutes. What have others experienced?
many thanks for any feedback!
im1believer
Have same problem. can feel hose hot going on the bypass rout of heater coil on fire wall under hood. No flow going in heater coil. A bypass rout tells me there must be a valve that opens and closes under dash. why is there a bypass alowing water not to pass through the coil. Pinched it off with a C-clamp but water still did not pass through the coil. Help. can not be that stopped up.
sal arar

Stoney Creek, Canada

#5 Dec 3, 2006
Same problem here. I read on many forums that the problem is the water pump itself. The pump blades corrode away so bad that there is no pressure left to push water through the heater core. Ford knows about this and made the cars with a by-pass at one of the heater hoses, so the engine doesn,t fry. Even if you change the water pump do not forget to back flush the heater core. Imagine the money these pricks made on doing a crappy job for the fix. Cars cost alot not due to labor but due to cost of incompetent management.
im1believer

United States

#6 Dec 6, 2006
sal arar wrote:
Same problem here. I read on many forums that the problem is the water pump itself. The pump blades corrode away so bad that there is no pressure left to push water through the heater core. Ford knows about this and made the cars with a by-pass at one of the heater hoses, so the engine doesn,t fry. Even if you change the water pump do not forget to back flush the heater core. Imagine the money these pricks made on doing a crappy job for the fix. Cars cost alot not due to labor but due to cost of incompetent management.
I have the car at the shop today replacing the heater core per their suggestion. Should this not resolve my problem then I guess the water pump will get it next! Thanks for your input as I never would have suspected the water pump. My mother-in-law owns a 1996 Taurus and has never complained of any heater problems.
im1believer

United States

#7 Dec 6, 2006
I have the car at the shop today having the heater core replaced per their suggestion. Should this not fix my problem then I guess it will be the water pump that gets it next per "sal arar"'s comments to my posting. When will the needless spending end?!!!!
rich

New Britain, CT

#8 Dec 6, 2006
had the same problem, flushed the heater core with liquid plumber and that did the trick. saved #$$ by doing it myself assisted by my nephew's instructions, he's a mechanic at a local garage. took about an hour in the back yard at night in 20 degree weather but that damn heater blows plenty of hot air now
tschoenecker

Saint Paul, MN

#9 Dec 7, 2006
how did you doit with liquid plumber
rich wrote:
had the same problem, flushed the heater core with liquid plumber and that did the trick. saved #$$ by doing it myself assisted by my nephew's instructions, he's a mechanic at a local garage. took about an hour in the back yard at night in 20 degree weather but that damn heater blows plenty of hot air now
tschoenecker

Saint Paul, MN

#10 Dec 7, 2006
How didyou do it with liquid plumber?
rich

New Britain, CT

#11 Dec 8, 2006
i cut the lines after the bypass, left the lower stub out hanging down and poured it in thru the top line via a funnel. then flushed it with a garden hose, after letting it sit in there for about 10 minutes. did this twice and works fine now
KELL3039

Pittsboro, NC

#12 Dec 10, 2006
I TO HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 99 LX NO HEAT 1ST FLUSHED COOLANT CAR HAD NEVER HAD THIS DONE WITH THE PREVIOUS OWNERS & THEY HAD IT 7YS BEFORE I INHERITED IT 6MOS AGO EVERYTHING WORKS GREAT EXCEPT THE HEATER I HAVE DRAINED THE COOLANT FROM THE ENTIRE SYS & PUT IN A HEAVY DUTY CLEANERDONT KNOE IF THAT HAS FIXED IT OR NOT ILL TRY THE LIQUID DRAINO NEXT NOT WILLING TO GIVE DEALER 500.00 TO CHANGE HEATER CORE WHEN THIS IS A CHEAP SOULUTION THANK'S A MILLION FOR THE INFO WHAT KIND OF DRAINO DID YOU USE
rich

New Britain, CT

#13 Dec 12, 2006
i used liquid plumber gel and did it twice, but just the heater core only not the cooling system. works great so far. looks like heater core is a relatively easy change if necessary. if fits thru a small panel in bottom of duct work under dash. well, easy if you are skinny and have a good back, lol unlike me. i got stuck a little
bob101

Pittsboro, NC

#14 Dec 16, 2006
rich wrote:
i used liquid plumber gel and did it twice, but just the heater core only not the cooling system. works great so far. looks like heater core is a relatively easy change if necessary. if fits thru a small panel in bottom of duct work under dash. well, easy if you are skinny and have a good back, lol unlike me. i got stuck a little
took off heater hoses got 4ft 3/4 heater hose fitted it to the top port on heater core used one of the squeeze clamps to keep it from pouring out around the hose poured in the black bottle of draino slow process i could tell it had a block only a little poured it in at a time did this twice rinsed with hot water then took the spray nozzle on the end of the garden hose put it into the 3/4 hose used a screw clamp to tighten down the 3/4 hose to the spray nozzle then turned on the water full blast & wow it took a minute but blew a wad of rust out till it ran clear the hooked up the bottom heater hose and let it flush the heater hoses alot of rust came out no cleaner you buy at any autopart store helped your method is the best method i have ever seen & it work's I HAVE HOT ASS HEAT NOW THANKS to this person & again thanks SO MUCH FOR PASSING THIS ON ANY ONE ON THIS SITE IF ITS NOT LEAKING POWER FLUSH THE HEATER CORE IN DETAIL NO NEED TO CUT THE HEATER HOSES TAKE THEM LOOSE FROM THE CORE & flush it till its clear 45 min tops saved me mega dollars i recomend every late spring early summer flush the entire cooling system & the heater core old saying 1 ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure tahnk you so much..........
e1doug

Avon, CT

#15 Dec 18, 2006
bob101 wrote:
<quoted text> took off heater hoses got 4ft 3/4 heater hose fitted it to the top port on heater core used one of the squeeze clamps to keep it from pouring out around the hose poured in the black bottle of draino slow process i could tell it had a block only a little poured it in at a time did this twice rinsed with hot water then took the spray nozzle on the end of the garden hose put it into the 3/4 hose used a screw clamp to tighten down the 3/4 hose to the spray nozzle then turned on the water full blast & wow it took a minute but blew a wad of rust out till it ran clear the hooked up the bottom heater hose and let it flush the heater hoses alot of rust came out no cleaner you buy at any autopart store helped your method is the best method i have ever seen & it work's I HAVE HOT ASS HEAT NOW THANKS to this person & again thanks SO MUCH FOR PASSING THIS ON ANY ONE ON THIS SITE IF ITS NOT LEAKING POWER FLUSH THE HEATER CORE IN DETAIL NO NEED TO CUT THE HEATER HOSES TAKE THEM LOOSE FROM THE CORE & flush it till its clear 45 min tops saved me mega dollars i recomend every late spring early summer flush the entire cooling system & the heater core old saying 1 ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure tahnk you so much..........
I did the same Drano trick with my 98 Taurus and it seem great. I simply disconnected the heater hoses up top rather than at the firewall. Made it easier to get at. Hope it lasts, thanks for the great tip !!! Happy Holidays
Cool Breeze

Muskegon, MI

#16 Jan 6, 2007
Heat hasn't worked right since october. My adventure starter with the reservior, then the water pump, then the thermostat, then the hose to the heater core burst. heat only works on low and only blows 60 degrees. Today we get the heater core flush ...pray for me.
Lou

Ft Mitchell, KY

#17 Jan 6, 2007
im1believer wrote:
I have the car at the shop today having the heater core replaced per their suggestion. Should this not fix my problem then I guess it will be the water pump that gets it next per "sal arar"'s comments to my posting. When will the needless spending end?!!!!
There are 2 99's. The non Dual Over Head Cam motor, and the junk motor you are dealing with. It used the red coolant and apparently it is corrosive. It eats the impeller off of the water pump, and the heater core becomes clogged, thus they added the by-pass hose to keep from having to replace motors due to overheating.

You can clamp the by-pass hose, pull one of the lines going to the heater core, make sure there is water in the line, then use an air compressor and blow out the heater core with about 90PSI air pressure, I actually used 125, so I suspect 90 is more than safe. Refill hose with water, and repeat several times. Refasten that line and remove the one on the other side and repeat the procedure about 4 times give or take, that should cure your heater core problem, but you will need to replace the water pump immediately as it is not properly cooling the engine.

I am not sure why, it could be due to it's location in the system, how the electronics are set, the indicator, or it could be bad from the factory, but for what ever reason it seems that the temperature gages are nearly worthless when these over heat, so you cannot trust them.

While you are at it, as the coolant was corrosive, I would strongly suggest replacing the thermostat while you are at it, and back flushing the entire system and blocking off hoses while you do this to get a better flush, it needs it. I would actually back flush before blowing out the heater core to prevent more junk getting into it from the rest of the motor, but if in a jam you can just blow out the heater core. Often there will be enough impeller left to do some cooling in a pinch, but due to the temp gage issue you are taking a big chance if you do not fix everything.

If the cap on the resivour for the coolant has corroded, as it may well have, it can allow the coolant to overflow when running, and allow the car to overheat, which as discussed, you'll never know till the car dies from overheating, or if cold, you notice the heater is not working. Replace the cap too.

Do not use the red coolant, I use a new universal coolant which can replace the older yellow coolant OR the red, and I just hope it is not corrosive. Even if it is, I suppose you are good for another 80K miles or more once all this is done.
fitz

Kansas City, MO

#18 Jan 11, 2007
I am planning on flushing the heater core in my 99 ford taurus. I'm wondering if sulfuric acid would damage the core. The acid is used by plumbers. Suggestion? Thanks
Charlie

Mobile, AL

#19 Jan 14, 2007
I am not sure the drano is needed, as you can flush all the junk out with water or air. Drano disolves clogs of hair and grease, not rust. I think the problem is that the core on these car clogs easily. Ywo years ago my freeze plugs rusted out, which cost me over $1000 to fix. They flushed everything, but not the core. I flushed the core, which made the heat work again, but did not work well. Yesterday I used a full can of radiator cleaner, from an auto store, but it did not really help. No more rust came out. I have pinched off the bypass a bit, but I think it has to be completely pinched off to help. Bloody annoying!
bob101

Pittsboro, NC

#20 Jan 18, 2007
fitz wrote:
I am planning on flushing the heater core in my 99 ford taurus. I'm wondering if sulfuric acid would damage the core. The acid is used by plumbers. Suggestion? Thanks
REMEMBER THE HEATER CORE IS ALLUMINUM VERY FRAGILE METAL USE DRANO LIKE I SUGESTED STEP BY STEP WITH THE WATER HOSE NO NEED FOR AN AIR COMPRESSOR TO MUCH DETAIL TO DANGEROUS FOR A SIMPLE BACK YARD PROJECT IF THAT DOESNT CURE IT THEN HEATER CORE CHANGE READ THAT THE ENTIRE DASH DOESNT HAVE TO COME OUT THEIR IS AN ACCESS DOOR TO IT TAKE'S A SKINNY PERSON TO GET UP IN THEIR BUT IF YOU ARE ANY BIT MECHANICALLY INCLINE YOU CAN DO SAY HELL NO TO THE DEALERS RIP OFF ARTIST..

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