Rough Idle on 2003 F-150 5.4L

Posted in the Ford F-150 Forum

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Tom Ferrari

West Roxbury, MA

#1 May 19, 2006
I have flushed the fuel injectors and no codes show up on the computor.At 40mph and above skip goes away,at idle, rough.
Frank

United States

#2 May 25, 2006
It's your crankshaft timing sensor or the pick up for that sensor located in the area of the crankshaft pulley. Possibly dirty contact or faulty sensor. Again disconnect the battery cables from battery both terminals and wait about 30 mins. Then reattach after you have inspected or cleaned the sensor cover. Start vehicle and test drive checking for problem.
MARK

United States

#3 Jun 25, 2006
I have just punchiest a 2003 f-150 4x4 5.4L, the engine compartment was extremely dirty, so I pressure washed the compartment. Since the truck has a rough idle most of time. Any suggestions please
Frank

AOL

#4 Jul 1, 2006
get an air compressor and blow all the water out of the spark plug holes. The plug wires are shorting to the head and not getting all of the energy to the plugs causing a miss or ruff idle. Do you have a Check Engine light? If so check my above post to clear that light and codes.

Good luck
MARK

Van Nuys, CA

#5 Jul 2, 2006
ok did all those things, truck seems to be running good but every now and then the idle jumps thanks
Frank

AOL

#6 Jul 3, 2006
Mark, Check in the spark plug boot there could still be some water left hiding up in the boot of the plug wire. The new computers are very touchy and sense stuf like that. Also could be your computer setting itself back to normal, the motor will run sort of strange at first (about 10 miles or so) then will get back to normal. If not repeat the process and try again... Glad to help out!
John

AOL

#7 Sep 16, 2006
Just purchased a 2003 F-150 with the 5.4L. I just started to run very rough, both at idle and at higher speeds. The check engine light came on and head codes read, which came back as cylinder 6 miss fire. The mechanic said it would cost about $250 to repair since it has no wires but sensors?????. There has got to be a way I can fix this thing, any help would be appreciated.
Frank

AOL

#8 Sep 17, 2006
John, Try these little things they might help... First buy a can of CRC MAF Spray Cleaner at the local auto parts store. Then Remove your battery cables... Then locate the MAF sensor, it should be in the air intake plenum. Spray the senors until it comes clean, but do not touch the MAF sensor. Now let the sensor dry for about 30 mins. and check for loose wires around you fuel injectors sometimes they come loose... Then look at the wires on your Coil-Over Plug Packs. If they have a boot over the plug see if it is cracked or loose. If you can get the boots off of the plugs look into the plug wells and see if there is any type of condensation. If there is use an air compressor and a dry towel to dry the plug wells. Any small amount of condensation will cause a misfire. The folks you bought your truck from may have cleaned the engine and water may have got down into the plug wells. When all of this is done re-attach your battery cables and start the engine. By removing the battery cable it clears the codes form the computer. Your truck may run funny for a couple miles because the computer is learning the new info. CRC MAF Cleaner is about $5 and the air from the compressor is free! Can't get cheaper than that!? Good Luck!

Frank the Shade Tree Mechanic
Steve

Bel Air, MD

#9 Oct 2, 2006
I had the same thing happen to mine - the issue was the coil was bad - these trucks have a coil mounted on each plug, the cost for the coil was $80. I had it and my plugs done (it was @ 93K), it has run perfectly since.
I don't advise letting your engine run this way for long, the vibration that results from the cylinder missing is harsh and will cause other parts in the engine to falter, especially electrical components.
Tony Tennessee

Knoxville, TN

#10 Oct 19, 2006
I have a ford f150 1997 truck. It is missing,between zero to 2500 rpms. After that the truck seems to run fine. I have checked vaccume, I have changed plugs,wires and egr valve and sensor egr relay but still have the same problem What can I be missing?
Frank

AOL

#11 Oct 21, 2006
Try some Marvel-Mystery oil.... it may help!
John

AOL

#12 Oct 22, 2006
Frank wrote:
John, Try these little things they might help... First buy a can of CRC MAF Spray Cleaner at the local auto parts store. Then Remove your battery cables... Then locate the MAF sensor, it should be in the air intake plenum. Spray the senors until it comes clean, but do not touch the MAF sensor. Now let the sensor dry for about 30 mins. and check for loose wires around you fuel injectors sometimes they come loose... Then look at the wires on your Coil-Over Plug Packs. If they have a boot over the plug see if it is cracked or loose. If you can get the boots off of the plugs look into the plug wells and see if there is any type of condensation. If there is use an air compressor and a dry towel to dry the plug wells. Any small amount of condensation will cause a misfire. The folks you bought your truck from may have cleaned the engine and water may have got down into the plug wells. When all of this is done re-attach your battery cables and start the engine. By removing the battery cable it clears the codes form the computer. Your truck may run funny for a couple miles because the computer is learning the new info. CRC MAF Cleaner is about $5 and the air from the compressor is free! Can't get cheaper than that!? Good Luck!
Frank the Shade Tree Mechanic
Hey Frank, thanks dude, it turned out to be a burnt coil due to "pressure washing" of the engine. As you statedwater was the problem. Thanks again.
John

AOL

#13 Oct 22, 2006
Hey Frank, thanks dude, it turned out to be a burnt coil due to "pressure washing" of the engine. As you statedwater was the problem. Thanks again.
Frank

AOL

#14 Oct 22, 2006
John,

No problem! Glad to help... Most things can be cured cheap and easy with common sense.

Frank
Cash

Corona, CA

#15 Oct 25, 2006
I bought a 1999 F-150 XLT 4x4 and I noticed thumping sounds at idle in gear.
Pulling out the driveway the rear tires would catch in the uneven pavement and lag like there was no power in the low RPM and then thump it's way out all gutless and weak.
I was devastated since I just paid cash and was worried the tranny was slipping. Thing is, it still made the thumping in Neutral...so I knew it must be a motor issue.(Sounds like someone under the driver knocking with their knuckles, "Hey man, let me outta here!")
Since this was a work truck I pressure washed the motor right after I bought it. After reading a post here that water can get in the plug holes I bought a new set of plugs (wires looked recent...never sure how much gain new wires actually give-let me know). Disconnected the battery (cleaned post as well).
I don't have air so I couldn't blow out the plug holes, but most of the dirt and oil was stuck to the old plugs anyway. The new plugs took 2-3 hours since I was new to this setup, but using combinations of short handle ratchet, swivel and a short and couple long extentions I was able to get them all in and out. Only had to remove a couple connectors and PCV hose from valve cover for better access. Laid on a cushion so I reach them all in relative comfort aside from the headaches you'll get hanging in a head down position.
Couple were stuck so I used some liquid wrench before torqing them out to prevent damage. I also was careful not to spray too much since it could create a puddle of dirt that could drain into the motor when the plug is removed or cause the plug to short to the block when active(right?). I cleaned the thick dried electro grease crap from inside of the plug wire boots. Decided not to put more on...let me know what your thoughts are on this grease. It was brown and rubbery and has no way of being conductive, which leads me to believe heat is no match for this stuff so it ends up being just gunking up the contacts. I don't know, maybe someone put on the wrong stuff. Would like to hear what you think.
By the way the gap info I found for the 4.6L V8 was 1.4 mm (0.054 inch). Not easy to find this anywhere. Any help finding a Service manual or CD would be appreciated. Good to have.
I found one plug to be COMPLETELY LOOSE and may have contributed to rough idle.
Bought the CRC MAF cleaner and cleaned both sensors in the air intake(was dirty in there- lots of fine dust), replaced the air filter connected the battery and drove 10-15 miles and she ran purred like a kitten. No more jerky take offs and shifts.
Noteable increase in overall performance.
Thanks a million John for your generous advice.
I work on laptops so I know the value of proprietary information. I also share my knowledge if anyone has a problem.
Cash

Corona, CA

#16 Oct 25, 2006
Everything is cool now except I noticed when I first turn on the truck is has a ticking sound that increases with RPM's. It goes away and then reappears while driving in gear. It's around the 2500 range and I can hear the sound deflecting off parked cars I pass so I hope it's just an exhaust leak. Only problem is I can't test it under load while lying underneath.
I'm going to try and wait until it's cold again and belly up under the pipe. I will try to isolate the sound. I doubt the lifters are adjustable on this motor anyway? Let's hope it's just an exhaust leak or crack in the header. PLEASE!!!!!!!!!
BTW: Does everyone know that 94-2004 F-150's, Expedition, Navigator and a couple others have a SERIOUS FIRE HAZARD with the cruise control cancellation switch that is hooked up to the front of the master cylinder. Mine was disconnected by the last owner but the dealer will put a new harness with an inline fuse if your vin is in the database. I'm thinking of getting one because I like cruise control on long trips but there may still be a risk. I feel sorry for all those who lost their trucks and damaged other vehicles, shops and holes from this problem and Ford is heartless to ignore them.
Unplug that connector on the brake cylinder if you have not already had it replaced. The wire is always getting power and starts a fire if brake fluid gets into the switch after time.
This recall does not even show on any car review sites, Autocheck, CarFax etc. Scary....
Check your VIN here:
http://www.fordf150.net/ford_news/ford-f150-b...
Sad stories:
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/f15...
Thanks for any tips finding out what my chatter is.
Last, I wondered if an occasional quite bump bump sound ding idle is normal. Is it supposed to be totally quiet like drdrdrdrdrdrdrdrdrdrdrdrdr or is it expected the firing order will create an occasional bump out of sync like drdrdrdrbumpbumpdrdrdrdrbumpdr drdrdrbumpbump?
Granted it's not making the hard bumping like it did before the new plugs and MAF cleaning. Just wondered how tight the computer runs this thing. My 67 El Camino idles the pants old ladies- so I'm not used to this Honda Civic idle noise of these new trucks. In fact it's hard to believe it's a V8 in there.
Sorry about the long post!
Cash R
Cash

Corona, CA

#17 Oct 25, 2006
I bought a 1999 F-150 XLT 4x4 and I noticed thumping sounds at idle in gear.

Pulling out the driveway the rear tires would catch in the uneven pavement and lag like there was no power in the low RPM and then thump it's way out all gutless and weak.

I was devastated since I just paid cash and was worried the tranny was slipping. Thing is, it still made the thumping in Neutral...so I knew it must be a motor issue.(Sounds like someone under the driver knocking with their knuckles, "Hey man, let me outta here!")

Since this was a work truck I pressure washed the motor right after I bought it. After reading a post here that water can get in the plug holes I bought a new set of plugs (wires looked recent...never sure how much gain new wires actually give-let me know). Disconnected the battery (cleaned post as well).

I don't have air so I couldn't blow out the plug holes, but most of the dirt and oil was stuck to the old plugs anyway. The new plugs took 2-3 hours since I was new to this setup, but using combinations of short handle ratchet, swivel and a short and couple long extentions I was able to get them all in and out. Only had to remove a couple connectors and PCV hose from valve cover for better access. Laid on a cushion so I reach them all in relative comfort aside from the headaches you'll get hanging in a head down position.

Couple were stuck so I used some liquid wrench before torqing them out to prevent damage. I also was careful not to spray too much since it could create a puddle of dirt that could drain into the motor when the plug is removed or cause the plug to short to the block when active(right?). I cleaned the thick dried electro grease crap from inside of the plug wire boots. Decided not to put more on...let me know what your thoughts are on this grease. It was brown and rubbery and has no way of being conductive, which leads me to believe heat is no match for this stuff so it ends up being just gunking up the contacts. I don't know, maybe someone put on the wrong stuff. Would like to hear what you think.

By the way the gap info I found for the 4.6L V8 was 1.4 mm (0.054 inch). Not easy to find this anywhere. Any help finding a Service manual or CD would be appreciated. Good to have.

I found one plug to be COMPLETELY LOOSE and may have contributed to rough idle.

Bought the CRC MAF cleaner and cleaned both sensors in the air intake(was dirty in there- lots of fine dust), replaced the air filter connected the battery and drove 10-15 miles and she ran purred like a kitten. No more jerky take offs and shifts.

Noteable increase in overall performance.

Thanks a million John for your generous advice.

I work on laptops so I know the value of proprietary information. I also share my knowledge if anyone has a problem.
Cash

Corona, CA

#18 Oct 25, 2006
Sorry about the double post.
Rough Idle F150

Fort Huachuca, AZ

#19 Oct 30, 2006
Lesson learned the hard way....I had a 1997 that did the same thing...forgot the lesson...I had codes indicating Bank 1 and 2 O2 sensors bad...nearly impossible chances....was told MAF sensor was bad...two notes here...first is its is a $100 part remanufactured---$180 when new..second...you will require a special "star-hex" set called a "tamper-resistant" star set....two screws hold MAF in place, but first dont do it...on both vehicles (after replacing expensive parts) I finally took it to a dealer...turns out on both it was a very inexpensive "rubber elbow" going to the EGR that had collapsed and created a vacuum leak..thus the rough idle....part was $13! Get the vehicle vacuum system checked FIRST...save your self some big bucks...as the dealer told me...the F150 Triton is a HOSS!
J Dog

United States

#20 Nov 5, 2006
I have 98' ford 150 triton 5.4 had exhaust leak, but other than that ran fine. I took it on an 8 hour trip, drove pretty hard,(80-85 on interstate)on the way back it started idling rough when I would stop. The computer said it was the EGR valve, and bank 2 running lean (which I thought could be from the exhaust leak). I replaced/cleaned EGR valve and elbows and surrounding areas and got the exhaust leak fixed. still idling really rough. mechanic thought that maybe the valve got cracked from exhaust leak, which was two bolts were broken at the manifold, but was still tight enough you could not see space, only hear leak when running. what else can I try?

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