2001 Escape Service Engine light

2001 Escape Service Engine light

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Justin

Prairie Du Sac, WI

#1 Feb 18, 2008
Just yesterday my service engine light came on on the dash....I know it has something to do with the emissions, now she is starting to sputter a bit....Im not sure what is causing this, and it just happened all of a sudden?? Anyone else have this problem??

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TEDDY

Jersey City, NJ

#2 Apr 7, 2008
I NEED TO KNOW WHAT THE PROBLEM IS
Mazlan

Kuching, Malaysia

#3 May 15, 2008
I got that for the last two years. It come and go. Already spend too much on this problem. I am letting it slide. Noted that many have same problem.
brook

Kaleden, Canada

#4 Dec 28, 2008
pull off the egr valve (above throttle body) and clean out or replace, simple start anyways
sandy

Washington, DC

#5 Mar 19, 2009
My daughter has a 2001 Escape and I have a 2000 Focus. Both of us have recurring problems with the check engine light coming on. After buckets of money on repairs for God knows what, the problem still persists. What's going on? The dealer wants to sell us new sensor systems at $1,000 each. I feel like I'm throwing good money after bad. HELP!
CJohnson

Washington, DC

#6 Mar 29, 2009
We have had the same problem for about a year. We have spent gobs of money on the problem. To have it continue to appear. At one point replacing one of the catalytic converters. it's always been sensitive to the brand of gas we put into it. Now the repair shop tells us that the other one is going. But we don't want to keep throwing money at this. We're thinking of another opinion. Or just getting rid of the thing. Our concern now is will it pass the emissions test?
JStephens

Fort Irwin, CA

#7 Jun 15, 2009
My 2001 Ford Escape XLT (6 cylinder and under 100k miles) has had the check engine light come on almost since purchase (orginal owner). We replaced the sensor during warranty and it seemed quite fine until three years ago. No mechanical tests have defined for sure what the problem was. My brother in law, same type vehicle, same problem. We both just leave the light on, though we can reset by removing a battery terminal for a count of 10. That works for exactly five days before the light returns. As for emissions test. My vehicle is registered in Alabama and doesn't require emission tests; however, I just reported for duty at a California military post which requires vehicles to be SMOG test for vehicles not registered in CA (full emissions if CA registered). I failed the first time soley for the light being on. I reset (removed the battery cable for count of ten) and retook the test, passing all function checks. Do I want the light off except for true failure? Sure, but I am not going to spend hundreds on supposition. This is at least the tenth forum I have researched trying to find a more definitive answer--FORD isn't helping.
Ggreen

Richmond, VA

#8 Jul 20, 2009
I own a 2002 Ford Escape and I just had the air compressor replaced and less than 2 days later my check engine light has come on. I have never had this problem before. Could my recent repair have caused this problem or is it possible that the mechanic failed to reconnect the belts correctly causing the check engine light to appear?
michael

Pickerington, OH

#9 Nov 24, 2009
i have a 2001 ford escape my engine light has been on for about 3 years and it ran fine till about 2 weeks ago, now it wont idle, ive changed plugs,egr vavle,before i changed the egr vavle it would run after it warmed up but after changing the egr vavle it doesn't idle. getting ready to change the mass air flow senser and see if that helps
John

Yorktown Heights, NY

#10 Dec 10, 2009
michael wrote:
i have a 2001 ford escape my engine light has been on for about 3 years and it ran fine till about 2 weeks ago, now it wont idle, ive changed plugs,egr vavle,before i changed the egr vavle it would run after it warmed up but after changing the egr vavle it doesn't idle. getting ready to change the mass air flow senser and see if that helps
Did you resolve your problem?
dan

Nicholasville, KY

#11 Dec 19, 2009
Justin wrote:
Just yesterday my service engine light came on on the dash....I know it has something to do with the emissions, now she is starting to sputter a bit....Im not sure what is causing this, and it just happened all of a sudden?? Anyone else have this problem??
my escape did the same thinf a year ago plug misfire check your plugs
BobC

Provo, UT

#12 Dec 19, 2009
Same problem. Last repair was replacing the intake manifold gasket. I found out ($600 too late) that there was an early bulletin identifying this as a problem area. That was two years ago, now the light is on again.
lee perkins

Marietta, OH

#13 Jan 18, 2010
michael wrote:
i have a 2001 ford escape my engine light has been on for about 3 years and it ran fine till about 2 weeks ago, now it wont idle, ive changed plugs,egr vavle,before i changed the egr vavle it would run after it warmed up but after changing the egr vavle it doesn't idle. getting ready to change the mass air flow senser and see if that helps
check your cats my 01 did the same thing pulled the codes says miss fire on cylinders 4 5 6 on back two lean pulled o2 sensor starts and runs good 4000 to fix at ford
John C

Sulphur, LA

#14 Feb 27, 2010
I have a 2001 Escape. A couple of weeks ago it blew out the side of the egr valve. I had a test run and identified the problem as the middle converter. I've replaced the EGR valve, converter, plugs, and two ignition coils. It's now slow to shift thru gears and at 70 mph it down shifts and looses power. Got any idea what the cause of this problem might be.
Frank

Des Plaines, IL

#15 Mar 6, 2010
I have them same exact problem. Lets start from the beginning. I replaced a exhaust y-pipe a few days ago. I was going on a rode trip. Driving on the highway and the car wouldn't shift (assumed trans was going). Then I heard a hiss and a explosion. The egr blew a hole. It was idling under 500, and couldn't get it over 60. I purchased a new egr valve and was still driving shitty. I had the check engine light checked and they said to much flow in the egr value. So we also replaced the sensor. It was driving better for a few miles. The egr then blew again. I do not know what the problem is. Could anyone help me. I was told by my dealer that the exhaust was the problem but dont want to put much money into the vehicle as I only bought it for 3k. Has anyone else had any exhaust work done to there car. Please let me know. Thanks
Kitty

United States

#16 Mar 7, 2010
I have a 2001 escape and the check engine light will not come on when you turn the key on. In Mo. it has to to pass inspection. Anyone have any idea? I could use any suggestions anyone might have.
Thanks
Jann

Huntington Beach, CA

#17 Mar 9, 2010
Appalled at how many Ford Escape owners with 2001-2003 having issues that no one can seem to diagnose. My 2001 XLT ran fine til about 2 years ago. When it was really hot in the summer, it wouldn't start. First replaced battery and it continued with same issue. Ford dealer charged $384 for fix, next year when it got warm, same thing. If I was running errands, I couldn't stop and start or I would have to sit and wait 20-30 minutes for it to start. It was not overheating, acted like vapor lock but it wasn't. Spent $1500 total on various "fixes" in 2009. A couple months ago it started running really rough when I would start it after work. I have to sit and rev the engine for a while to at least 2000-2500 rpm to get it to level out. It has never stalled but lurches and stutters. Mechanic said with the age of the vehicle that he could replace one part at a time for $1,000s and never figure out what it is. Last code said cylinder 3 misfire, replaced the spark plugs, still doing it. Feels like it is really laboring on the freeway. So sick of dealing with something that no one can resolve. Anyone else have the same issue?
John

Washington, DC

#18 Apr 23, 2010
Having same issue with V6 2001 Ford Escape. EGR valve was replaced last year. Spark plugs replaced last year. Rough idle has just begun - haven't taken it in yet, but afraid of what they're going to ask me for.
Robert

Pompano Beach, FL

#19 May 23, 2010
For those of you experiencing check engine light with rough idle and or lurching/jerking at highway speeds, which i did, this is what fixed mine. 3.0l V6

for the check engine light try the following.

There is a black plastic sensor, not sure what its called, but it sits just behind and below the egr valve with two vac lines going to it. This sensor has been reported to go bad and cause the check engine light to come on. Cheap part like 3 bucks or something like that and easy for anyone to replace.

If that doesn't work, the egr valve is next, about 60 bucks at autozone, and again easy to fix if you have the tools. Easy way to check this part, take it off and lightly blow/suck air into the valve, you should feel the diaphram inside moving. if not, its bad and needs replacement.

There is a hose that connects at the back of the the upper intake manifold to a tube that goes to the pcv valve. That hose had collapsed and was not allowing air to flow. again, easy fix. 36 dollar part.

Once i took care of these the check engine light went away! and it cost me less than 120 bucks.

The surging, bucking and lurching at highway speeds was taken care of by a flush and fill of the transmission fluid, the minute it had new fluid in the tranny, it stopped lurching and shifted smooth at highway speeds. 149 bucks at jiffy lube.

There is one last thing, this one requires an experienced mechanic that you trust. I kept getting bad coil indications with rough idle. Replaced two of the coils and idle smoothed out, but a couple of days later the rough idle came back. Mechanic thought it was a bad part, it happens, and replaced one of the new coils. Worked fine for a couple of days and rough idle came back. As he was tracing the wiring from the coil back to its source which is the big connector at the top of the firewall behind the engine, with the engine running, he grabbed the bundle of wires going to the connector and moved it around. In certain positions, the idle would immediately smooth out!

He initially thought it was the connector or the main computer because pushing a certain way on the connector smoothed the idle also. I did a bit of research online and found several reports where the some of the wiring that leads to the coils inside that harness can be broken inside its covering and cause the coil affected not to fire giving a bad coil indication when in fact it is not the coil thats bad!

So if you have any indication of a bad coil, before you go spending any money on replacing them, simply grab that black harness and wiggle it around to see if the idle smooths out. You'll save yourself money and frustration in the long run. The fix isn't easy since it requires finding the exact spot where the break in the one wire in that bundle. It then has to be cut, spliced correctly, and covered with heat shrink tubing properly. So this one requires an experienced hand at auto electrical work.

Hope this helps everyone.
charles

Noblesville, IN

#20 May 27, 2010
I been threw 3 cats and the f in thing is out again replace all plugs wires and 6 coils to boot. Mass sensor and every thing else possible and even had a transmission changed.
What will fix my problem. May be I should kick the shit out of the mechanice .

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