#21 Feb 22, 2011
Probably the coils shorting when it's raining or very humid.
#22 Feb 24, 2011
I think we all have thr same problem. Just different stages. I blew out a quarter size hole in my EGR valve. The pressure from the Cats off the monifold created back pressure. All three Cats had to be replaced. Has anyone heard anything about Ford recall on this model.
#23 Feb 27, 2011
the reson it blew a whole in the egr is because the cad is clogged i have an 2002 and it did the same thing i punched it out and so far it is fixed but mine is also misin on 5 and sis i replaced plkugs and coils stil have the problem
#24 Feb 28, 2011
Thanks Mike and kevin for yor responses. Have just had a call from the mechanic and #4 is showing up as mis-fring so we are taking the root of swapping coils out to see if it moves
#25 Mar 6, 2011
I have replaced the coils on my 02, and it still idles funny sometimes. Also 4 and 5 misfire. What is a CAT and where are they?
#26 Mar 9, 2011
Cat is a catalytic converter of which the ford has two small onesat the front and one larger one in the middle. What happen to me was that the baffles had a build up of carbon which cause additinal heat which melted the plates and in turn clogged the converter.
Since: Mar 11
#27 Mar 16, 2011
Check your fuel pressure being too high. The regulator is built into pump.
#28 Mar 27, 2011
what will happen if I take off both converters and replace with a muffler and pipe.
(2001 ford escape V6)
#29 Mar 27, 2011
I have replaced almost everything you can replace, I think that by removing both converters might help. I don't want to do more damage though.
#30 Apr 8, 2011
My girlfirends 2001 V-6 escape is doing same - at 117k miles and for no reason starts to run rough and shutter , got a code of cyl 1 & 2 misfire and O2 sensor on bank 3 . I cleared codes and it ran fine for about a week then it sat outside one night and it was rainy teh next day it had same problems. So do I change plugs , wires ,EGR & coils or PCM ??
#31 Apr 15, 2011
I have a 2002 Escape with 83k miles on it and the check engine light is on and th reading from it says it missing on cylinders 1, 2 ,3 and 5. I believe this is a false reading because the car runs fine and never knocks or jumps like cars do when they normally misfire. i dont want to replace the coils and plugs if thats not why is giving me the reading because they seem to be working fine. does anyone have any suggestions? i think i am going to go to the dealership and ask them to reprogram my pcm.
St. John's, Canada
#32 Apr 26, 2011
I am having a similar problem. My '05 Escape overheated last week (A broken clamp, a small hole in hose, and a clogged CAT), my temperature gauge didn't show any sign of this. Now I have a hesistation at starting and while accelerating, it stalled once while stopping. Computer says the problem is coil #6- which has now been replaced along with the associated spark plug. I am not mechanically inclined at all but I think I blew the head Gasket when it overheated. All the posts I've read on-line are scaring the heck out of me $$$$!! I don't want to throw money away on the wrong solutions! Grrrrr
#33 Apr 26, 2011
I just replaced the plugs and looks like the front 3 coils had been replaced as teh rear 3 still had teh motorcraft stickers on them as factory would have been - and the misfire reading was from rear cylinders so I swicthed coils and put intake back on and the code followed the coils now misfire on cyl #5 & #6. So now I can buy the coils and replace them easy in just minutes.
Went online and coils were $80 -$100 for all 6 and went to Auto Zone & Advance and they were $85 each !!!! so ordered online and should be here in 2 days. Hope that solves my problem.
#34 Apr 30, 2011
Escape misfire SOLVED:
The problem is one or more defective coils. You see, the plastic that the body of the coil is manufactured with is of poor quality. After a while tiny cracks develop, sometimes invisible to the naked eye. Reach your fingers in there while the car is running. Chances are you will get zapped by touching one of the coils. This problem is exacerbated by wet weather.
It gets even more confusing because the short in the system causes the PCM (powertrain control module) to go haywire. On interrogation, you may get multiple trouble codes (cylinder misfire, defective O2 sensors, etc.) when in fact, nothing else is wrong with the car.
1. Clean and sand EVERY connection from the coil driver wires on down to the spark plugs.
2. When installing new plugs, make sure: a)They are correctly gapped (.054 for 2003 V6 escape) and b)They are installed correctly with a SPARK PLUG SOCKET that has the proper rubber bushing inside to ensure the plug does not FALL into the hole (thus, affecting the gap.)
3. Wrap EVERY coil in electrical tape, on up to the coil wires (a couple of inches.) This will require 2-3 rolls of electrical tape. Leave no part of the coil exposed.
4. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and allow the car to sit for at least 5 minutes.
One you reconnect the battery and start the car you will be able to determine whether or not there has been damage to the PCM. Hopefully, it runs smooth and the check engine light stays off. If you continue to get random trouble codes, you may need to install a new PCM. Contact your local dealer, and as always, get ready to be raped.
#35 May 16, 2011
Same misfiring problem here. Replaced plug in cylinder 5 after having shop read the code. I thought I would try a trick and moved the #5 coil to the #4 cylinder location just in case the coil was bad and not just the plug. Engine started misfiring again (about 3 weeks after the last fix). Going to get the code read again to find out if its the coils or something else....btw, I purchased this American car from a dealership up here in Canada with very low miles (48000) and have regretted it ever since. It has always been very hard on gas. Shame on Ford for not recalling this major issue.
#36 May 17, 2011
2001 Escape w/ 57K It is very true that a misfire will melt the manifold cat on the misfire side of engine and clog the rear cat, it happened to me! I replaced the rear converter (under the passenger seat beneath vehicle), the front manifold cat, the precat O2(oxygen) emissions sensor, the postcat O2(oxygen) emissions sensor, and the 1, 3, 5 coil on plug assys by myself in garage with minimum of tools. That was back in early Janurary (Mid-May now w/ 4,200 miles)and no Check Engine light since! Cost me 20 hours and about $1250. Oh I took the cats and assorted melted metal pieces to the recycler and because they contain/are precious metals I got $50 for all. I replaced the pre/post O2 sensors because I believed the high temps in manifold cat probably slewed their reliability. You can check the manifolds for overtemp by looking for a discoloration, usually brownish with blue and green hues mixed in. The back pressure from rear cat can be sometimes intermittant and not cause a code. Get a code scanner and check for codes! My scanner never indicated anything wrong except a cylinder 3 misfire!! The rear cat had honeycomb looking pieces clogging (restricting) the flow. You need a floor jack and a service manual. CD/ROM Manuals are available on EBay for about $8. That's where I got instuctions and diagrams. The trickiest thing was getting the Alternator out of the way. There's an "indentation" that looks like a socket drive square you pry to get drive belt off (careful it's under tension!! Then you can unbolt the manifold cat after unplugging the the sensors. It's easier to bolt new sensors to the new manifold cat while off the vehicle. I did the cats from underneath and did not remove all the stuff manual said to take off from above. The from above path makes getting to the bolts easier I imagine, but you remove and replace ALOT of other stuff!! The hard part was getting to the manifold bolts, but I have large hands. The manifold cat needed the mounting holds elongated before all the bolts would realign, but doesn't effect the manifold runners themselves. "Some modifications may be required" Yup!! Oh, God pity you if you have a rear manifold cat to replace. Can you say $$$$$$$$, cause I don't think I could possibly get to that rear manifold cat!! Hope this helps evryone.
#37 May 25, 2011
I found this info on another site:
For those of you experiencing check
engine light with rough idle and or
lurching/jerking at highway speeds,
which i did, this is what fixed mine. 3.0l V6
for the check engine light try the following.
There is a black plastic sensor, not sure
what its called, but it sits just behind
and below the egr valve with two vac lines
going to it. This sensor has been reported
to go bad and cause the check engine light to come on.
Cheap part like 3 bucks or something like that and easy
for anyone to replace.
If that doesn't work, the egr valve is next, about 60
bucks at autozone, and again easy to fix if you have the
tools. Easy way to check this part, take it off and lightly
blow/suck air into the valve, you should feel the diaphram
inside moving. if not, its bad and needs replacement.
There is a hose that connects at the back of the the upper
intake manifold to a tube that goes to the pcv valve.
That hose had collapsed and was not allowing air to flow.
again, easy fix. 36 dollar part.
Once i took care of these the
check engine light went away! and it cost me less than 120 bucks.
The surging, bucking and lurching at highway speeds was taken
care of by a flush and fill of the transmission fluid, the minute
it had new fluid in the tranny, it stopped lurching and shifted
smooth at highway speeds. 149 bucks at jiffy lube.
There is one last thing, this one requires an experienced mechanic
that you trust. I kept getting bad coil indications with rough idle.
Replaced two of the coils and idle smoothed out, but a couple of days
later the rough idle came back. Mechanic thought it was a bad part,
it happens, and replaced one of the new coils. Worked fine for a couple
of days and rough idle came back. As he was tracing the wiring from the
coil back to its source which is the big connector at the top of the
firewall behind the engine, with the engine running, he grabbed the bundle of
wires going to the connector and moved it around,
In certain positions, the idle would immediately smooth out!
He initially thought it was the connector or the main computer because pushing
a certain way on the connector smoothed the idle also. I did a bit of research
online and found several reports where the some of the wiring that leads to the
coils inside that harness can be broken inside its covering and cause the coil
affected not to fire giving a bad coil indication when in fact it is not the coil
thats bad! So if you have any indication of a bad coil, before you go spending
any money on replacing them, simply grab that black harness and wiggle it around
to see if the idle smooths out. You'll save yourself money and frustration in the
The fix isn't easy since it requires finding the exact spot where the break in
the one wire in that bundle. It then has to be cut, spliced correctly, and
covered with heat shrink tubing properly. So this one requires an experienced
hand at auto electrical work.
Hope this helps everyone.
I Had The Same Problem mine said the ignition coil A was misfiring.
took it to the ford dealership, they said it was the PCM that was bad
it had a bad driver in they replaced it and the problem was solved!!
Hope this helps!!
#38 Jun 11, 2011
my daughter has a 2001 ford escape the check engine light was on and the engine was shuddering real bad. i checked the wiring at each connection when i came accross a broken wire at the main wiring connection at the top of the firewall in the engine compartment. it was pin #104 the wire had broken from age and vibration. i pulled the pin and resoldered the connection and now all is rainbows and butterflies again. at any rate, backtrack all the connections with a tester with tone and you should find the problem.
#39 Jun 17, 2011
we have a 2001 ford escape v6 and cylinder 4 and 6 are getting spark but the cylinder is dead what could cause this help please its getting very expensive
#40 Jun 20, 2011
My 2002 Ford Escape was idling rough after warming up and it seemed like it was 'missing'. The code read by my mechanic indicated a bad coil on clinder 4 so he replaced it and changed all the plugs (it was due as they've never been changed before and had 109K miles on it). Anyway, the problem persisted and what finally solved the problem was replacing the coolant temperature sensor...yes, I was doubtful too but he told me if this didn't solve the problem he'd refund all my money for the tune-up, etc. Anyway, just thought I'd post this in the hope that it will help someone with this hard to diagnose problem.
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