2001 Ford Escape Rough Idle @ start
waldo

Houston, TX

#21 Nov 13, 2008
3sweetpea the upper and lower gaskets are only 8.99 at oreilys. see above for link
jason

Oakland, CA

#22 Nov 30, 2008
My rough idle problem has gone like this - it also now pings when it is rough idling - sounds like it's coming from intake manifold area

These are the things I've changed over the past 3 months
Changed Brake Booster (different issue - hissing brakes)

Changed Idle Air Control Valve - no fix
Changed all gaskets on upper intake manifold - no fix
Changed all spark plugs - no fix
Changed battery - no fix
Changed Serpentine Belt - no fix

So, I'm pretty frustrated with this POS. I'm done buying domestic cars. We wonder why the American Auto Industry is bankrupt.
Shannon

Thunder Bay, Canada

#23 Dec 3, 2008
We had the same rough idle problem. Cold start it ran horrible until it warmed up. Changed upper intake gaskets with no change. Then decided to change the lower gaskets and so far idle problem is gone and it is running smooth.
Brian

Cincinnati, OH

#24 Dec 11, 2008
GA Brown wrote:
Original owner of 2001 Ford Escape XLT V6 with 121K miles having rough idle when starting cold and is light throughout the day. Problem is not consistent so mechanic will not look at until all the time. I suspect it is either exhaust, fuel, or ignition related. Anyone else out there have a similar problem?
Similar problem with rough idle with cold start...was your problem solved and how
frank mess

United States

#25 Dec 15, 2008
change upper and lower intake gaskets and yor problem will be gone napa has the gaskets for under 10.00 dollars
Eddy

Nampa, ID

#26 Dec 19, 2008
GA Brown wrote:
Original owner of 2001 Ford Escape XLT V6 with 121K miles having rough idle when starting cold and is light throughout the day. Problem is not consistent so mechanic will not look at until all the time. I suspect it is either exhaust, fuel, or ignition related. Anyone else out there have a similar problem?
It is possible that you could have a bad idle air control or something of that nature but I would guess you are probably experiencing the effects of catalytic converters that are becoming clogged. There are three on the vehicle. One built into each manifold and one between the y-pipe and muffler. An easy way to diagnose if this third converter is clogged is to unbolt the flange connecting the y-pipe to the catalytic converter. If it runs better, this third one is clogged and needs replaced.
Eddy

Nampa, ID

#27 Dec 19, 2008
3sweetpea wrote:
<quoted text>
Hi Chris,
As described by others in this forum, I have been having the morning shuddering problem with my 2001 6 cylinder Ford Escape. I did replace the IAC valve although I am not yet sure that has solved the problem. I also intend to replace the spark plugs because my mileage is 102,000 plus. Is is safe and would it be better for me to have the Motorcraft double platinum plugs installed. Also, should they cost that much more than other brands? I do not yet have a quote but Midas says they will. Also, how much should the upper and lower intake gaskets you mentioned in the forum cost to replace?
Thank you very much.
You should look into the possibilty of clogged catalytic converters. Clogged converters can cause cold start idle problems.
Yep Yep

Dallas, GA

#28 Dec 20, 2008
My 01 escape was running really rough(144K) I gave it new plugs and coils($65/ea.) And that fixed it. The only issue is that to reach the rear coils and plugs u have to remove the intake manifold. It took me and total of 2 hours to do it all and I have very little mechanical knowledge. I did all 3 in the rear so I would not have to worry about remiving the manifold again. The Haynes manual was very helpful.
Josh Stewart

Clackamas, OR

#29 Dec 21, 2008
GA Brown wrote:
Original owner of 2001 Ford Escape XLT V6 with 121K miles having rough idle when starting cold and is light throughout the day. Problem is not consistent so mechanic will not look at until all the time. I suspect it is either exhaust, fuel, or ignition related. Anyone else out there have a similar problem?
I had the same problem with my girlfriends 2001 escape V6. I (being a bit of a caveman mechanic) started by replacing the spark plugs (thinking if it doesn't run real well cold, but runs well hot, it is a spark issue) while I was replacing the spark plugs I had to remove the upper intake manifold and replaced the six gaskets connecting that with the lower intake manifold. The problem continued and I replaced the IAC valve thinking it made perfect sense. It might make sence but the problem still persisted.... I tried cleaning the Mass Airflow sensor (I used rubbing alcohol (so far so good) So I gave in and dug all the way down to the lower manifolds (tried to test for leaks by releasing propane around the area but the idle was so eradic to begin with it was hard to tell...) So I replaced the lower intake manifold gaskets and all of the upper ones again as well as the gasket on the throttle body. Put it all back together, went to start it and it sounded like hell! I thought I left a wrench in there or something... But after that initial reset (It quieted down and smoothed out, I ran it for a minute, turned on the ac for a minute then drove it ten miles) It now runs PERFECT. My suggestion would be if you have this problem, start by purchasing 8.00 worth of spark plugs and 12.00 worth of gaskets and pull the upper and lower manifold gaskets, replace all of them and while you are at it replace the plugs and inspect for any other vacume leaks, when you are done with that if there are any problems, then spend 64.00 for an IAC valve.
BLACKBOND

Southfield, MI

#30 Jan 11, 2009
KSims wrote:
My wife's 2001 Escape idles very rough when 1st started for the day, and gets a little better when warm, but still a rough idle.
I've changed all the spark plugs (that was fun) and air filter. STILL runs like crap at idle and when cold.
Sounds like a vacuum leak for sure look for a pinched line...
car guru

Cambridge, MA

#31 Jan 13, 2009
your 02 sensor fuse is blown check at the junction box 15 amp fuse
car guru

Cambridge, MA

#32 Jan 13, 2009
check your fuse box for 02 sensor fuse i bet a million bucks it iwll be blown!
josh bain

Deer Park, TX

#33 Jan 29, 2009
ok i had the same rough idle problem. go to a auto zone or where ever and buy the intake manifold gasket. there should be a upper and lower gasket and also iac(idle air control), tps(throtle position sensor), and throttle body gasket
Gail

Andreas, PA

#34 Feb 5, 2009
I Also am having problem with the start up of my 2001 escape. I took ot back to the dealer and they told me they could not find the problem. It tends to be a lot worse when it is cold. Just recently it started stalling out while I drive (when it is cold). I lose all power it is pretty scary the abs seems to go first then the rest of the car follows. Does anyone have a definite ansewr about these probles. Also as someone mentioned earlier it will only stay started if i hold the gas. Uses a lot of gas just to start the car.
john

Belleville, NJ

#35 Feb 16, 2009
I've been having the same problems with the rough idling and the car was stalling when cold and the brakes go also, not fun obviously. The engine light kept lighting up after repeatedly trying different fixes that private and dealership mechanics couldn't fix. (This is all work done at the dealership) There was a hissing sound by the brakes and the rough idling and stalling was beginning to start especially as the weather turned cold. I was told it was brake related, the brake line had to be replaced or something to that effect, had that fixed which wasn't cheap but still didn't help when it came to the stalling which i was told would be fixed. It then got progressively worse where it would compeletely stall while driving so brought it back and this time was told it was a vacuum leak from intake o-rings and IAC motor was stuck causing the stall so had that work done which cost even more money. It worked for a short time somewhat but still had moments when it would shake especially in the cold and now is starting the hard idling where the interior dashboard starts to dim and the car seems like it may stall. About $1500 later now they tell me there is a 1/2 inch crack in the intake manifold which is the reason for the rough idling that will cost $1150 to fix. Not to mention my front brakes and master cylinder need to be replaced also which is an additional $320 each, so now i have the check engine in addition to brake light being on and then the airbag light started flashing for no reason also now. To fix that the seatbelt recepticle needs to be replaced which would be $220. I really don't think spending $2000 more to get all this work done and having something else happen down the line somewhere is worth it. The reason the rough idling goes away when warm is that the crack in the intake manifold closes from the heat expansion i was told. I've had various fixes before all this which is expected at times with a truck thats at 115,000 miles now but this is completely ridiculous and a rip off. Way too much trouble not to mention expensive fixes that private (gasket work done which was to possibly have fixed it) or dealership mechanics can't seem to find which is extremely frustrating coming from the dealership side, its turned into a lemon. Get rid of it before throwing your money away would be my recommendation if you start encountering these problems and you get no real answers
Christine

Rockville, MD

#36 Mar 11, 2009
I have had a TON of problems with my 2001 Escape that only has 67,000 miles on it...roof lining replaced 5 times and still leaks (and no, I do not have a moon or sun roof); they forgot to seal the windows at the factory when it was built, so first cold day windows were iced up on the INSIDE; idle moter needed to be replaced; new battery; new tires (twice); just replaced the alternator and the thing has not run right since...feels like it is going to stall when I am stopped and when I get speed between 40 and 60 mph, it seems like the fuel is having a tough time getting through and it sort of bucks and stutters, but only between 40 and 60...anybody know what is up with that?
AAMurphy

Kansas City, KS

#37 Apr 3, 2009
fford wrote:
these cars are junk! go with toyota 0r honda! craps! turns out airleaks intake & bad oxygen senor.
Sorry, must disagree, I would never buy a piece of foreign junk. I have owned 3 Escapes with ZERO problems. Maybe its you?
MWC

Columbus, OH

#38 Apr 10, 2009
I have an '03 Escape, 3.0L that recently had the rough idling issues when the weather was near freezing and raining. After reading comments from above posters, I decided to start by changing both the upper AND lower intake manifold gaskets. While I had everything torn apart, I also changed the PCV valve and spark plugs. All of this took about 3 hours total for me, as I am not the most experienced mechanic around. Changing the lower intake manifold gaskets took about 1 hour and requires you to remove the fuel rail, so I also changed the o-rings on the fuel injectors before re-installing. Even though changing these lower gaskets takes extra time, it is well worth the effort if that is where the vacuum leak is located at. Once everything was reassembled, I started the car and it has been running well over the last 3 months, including times when it was both rainy and cold.
For posters who have had their spark plugs changed and the intake manifold gaskets changed, I would suggest ensuring that BOTH the upper AND lower gaskets (a total of 12 gaskets) were changed, and not just the upper set. Only the 6 upper gaskets are easily available during a spark plug change, and if the extra effort is not taken to change the lower ones, then you will not be assured that the gaskets are not the problem. If you are having a mechanic replace them for you, be adamant that they change both sets of gaskets.
knorris

Greer, SC

#39 Apr 16, 2009
when my car is cold it shakes a bounces. any answers on what the problem is?
jayce123

Jacksonville, FL

#40 Jun 6, 2009
2002 ford escape, my ford spit out a egr code so i replaced that about 6 months ago. The other day it started running rough at idle and 2 more codes were given p0304 and p0305. So i replaced the oil, oil filter, spark plugs, fuel filter, cleaned the MAF sensor, cleaned the IAC valve, and replaced the upper and lower intake gaskets. The codes said it could be a vacume leak so that is why i replaced the gaskets. Now the truck runs smother at idle but does alot of bucking and surging when giving it gas, not much power either. I am guessing it is miss firing? could it be the timming? the only thing i have not replaced is the coils, They are expensive! any help on what my next step should be?

Tell me when this thread is updated:

Subscribe Now Add to my Tracker

Add your comments below

Characters left: 4000

Please note by submitting this form you acknowledge that you have read the Terms of Service and the comment you are posting is in compliance with such terms. Be polite. Inappropriate posts may be removed by the moderator. Send us your feedback.

Ford Escape Discussions

Title Updated Last By Comments
oil check procedure on 2014 escape 2.0 ecoboost... 13 hr larry541 1
2003 ford escape (Jun '06) Jun 22 Disco brake switch 105
2002 Ford Escape brake problem (Feb '07) Jun 20 j5_taylor 92
2003 ford escape anti-theft ignition problem (Apr '07) Jun 20 chantele 11
2002 Ford Escape (Feb '06) Jun 8 Denise 439
2003 Ford Escape Rough Idle/Engine light blinking (Apr '11) Jun 1 stephanieraexo 31
changing alternator 2003 escape (Feb '07) May 31 clammer531 108
More from around the web