2002 Ford Escape
SANDI MUNDY

AOL

#166 Nov 3, 2007
My 2002 Escape won't start..Its turning over but won't fire..This came out of the blue..Does anyone know what might be wrong?
jeff

Greensburg, PA

#167 Nov 7, 2007
i have a ford escape 2002 when i go over bumps it sounds like the front end is falling off. Does anyone have this problem?
marg

Winnipeg, Canada

#168 Nov 9, 2007
I have the same problem and have almost been rear ended. My 2002 Escape has been in to the dealer and they said nothing shows up, they drove it and it was fine BUT they told me it had numberous problems ie tie rod ends ( like other commenters, brake and pads and on and on without fixing or addressing the reason I brought the vehicle in) I would NEVER buy another Ford. This one bought brand new has cost me over 5,000 in repairs and it is all highway driving. Good luck with the dying engine and hope you don't get hit!
Jenny wrote:
Has anyone ever had a problem with their escape dying?? I can get it started, and it will run as long as I give it gas, but even if I rev it really high, as soon as I let go of the gas it dies. I'm pissed because I brought it to the dealership reporting this problem, less than a year ago, I paid my $50 deductable for them to tell me that they couldn't find anything wrong. Now, no matter what I don't it won't stay alive. HELP!! I can't afford to tow it to them and pay them to look at it, and have no results.
marg

Winnipeg, Canada

#169 Nov 9, 2007
I have the same problem. I am convinced that the dealer is making mega bucks on these Escapes, i know they have on mine. When i took it in as a safety problem they could not find anything, it had just died approx. 7 times the evening prior!!! They won't believe it until someone is rearended because of this problem. I would NEVER recommend a Ford!
Bill in Ohio

United States

#170 Nov 11, 2007
Joel in Indiana wrote:
My 2002 ford Escape has problems with the gas pedal sticking when its cold. It is tuff to push down and when it finally goes the car jumps. Once your moving its fine until you totally stop again. If the car warms up and I mean really warms up it acts fine. It has only done this in the winter and was never bad enough to bother me (actually thought my wife was nuts) but now its terrible and obviously in need of fixing any ideas would be helpful
This appears to be a common problem. I discovered it on a 2001 4 cylinder Escape. We checked the accelarator cable and it was functioning perfectly. Whast we discovered is that the throttle body plate which opens according to how far down you press the accelarator pedal was sticking in the closed postion. Therefore you have to exert extra force with your foot on the accelarator pedal to make it "unstick". When you do this, the plate pops loose and the car slightly lurches as you begin to accelerate. The cause of this problem is residue in the form of a dark brown sticky substance accumulates on the inner wall of the throttle body right at the location of the throttle plate. When you lift up on the accelarator pedal, the plate returns to it's rest position which is fully closed. The edge of the plate gets stuck in the residue and thus when you press the accelartor again it sticks for a moment and then suddenly releases. The solution is to remove the air intake hose from the top of the throttle body and remove the sticky residue for the inside wall of the throttle body. I recommend that you carefully insert a rag into the oriface under the throttle plate, and then tsake some carburator cleaner (a spray can available at any local auto parts store) and sturate the sticky material and carefully clean it off of the throttle body wall. The accelartor pedal will return to it's normal funtionality. I am certainly not an expert but it looks like Mazda (the escape has Mazda engines in them) designers used an unusual plastic material for the body of the throttle body and it somehow attracts certain additives in your gasoline that over time adhere to the throttle body wall and begins to build up to the point where the throttle plate begins to stick in it. The solution is less than $4.00 fort he carburator cleaner and about an hour of your own time to remove the air intake system aand clean it. Hope this helps you?
Dan

Williamston, NC

#171 Nov 12, 2007
Mark wrote:
Wish I knew what your problem was. This evening my 2002 Tribute locked up in Neutral. I could not move the gear lever to Park or Drive. I will tow it tomorrow. Who fixed your Escape?
<quoted text>
Mine shifted to park but the transmission is stuck in park and will not come out. It is not the transmission (had it checked) I am wondering if it could be the switch on the brake that will not release the shifter until the brake is pushed down?
CCarter

Jacksonville, FL

#172 Nov 12, 2007
Natashia wrote:
<quoted text> I'd just like to add my comment. My passenger rear door
I'd just like to add another problem I had with my SUV. I'd only had it about 3-4 months and a tire rod end ceased up and needed to be replaced. It was covered under warrenty. BUt this did cause a lot of squeaking when I made a turn. Also, everytime I had the truck in, it cost me $ 50.00 for the deductible on the warrenty.
Just thought you should know.
I just like to add my comment. I to have a 2002 Escape, and my rear passenger door will not open, nor will it unlock or lock. Ford wants $80.00 just to look at it. I ask someone at Ford when I went to get my oil change, her answer was maby the child lock is on. I should check it. I told her I woud be glad to check it if I could only open the door. Smart people at Ford. I will try to fix it myself if I knew how to get the inside panel off. Can anyone tell me how to do this?
CCarter

Jacksonville, FL

#173 Nov 12, 2007
I to have a Ford Escape 2002. My passenger rear door will not open. It will not make a locking sound. Ford wants $80.00 just to look at it. When I went to get my oil change I mentioned it to one of the workers there. She told me maby I had the child lock on, and I should check it. I told her I would be glad to if I could only open the door. Smart people at Ford. I want to take a look at it myself if I knew how to get the inside panel off. Can anyone tell me how to do this?
BETH

Jesup, GA

#174 Nov 21, 2007
I HAVE A 2002 FORD ESCAPE AND WHEN I TRY AND START IT IT OWNT START, IT SOUNDS LIKE THE GAS IS GETTING TO WHEREVER IT NEEDS TO GET TO. IF I SIT THERE AND PUMP THE GAS IT WILL EVENTUALLY START. BUT THIS MORNING I TRIED PUMPING IT AND IT WOULDNT START, ANY SUGGESTIONS OR IDEAS WHAT THIS COULD BE?
Clint

Wichita, KS

#175 Nov 22, 2007
Jenny wrote:
Has anyone ever had a problem with their escape dying?? I can get it started, and it will run as long as I give it gas, but even if I rev it really high, as soon as I let go of the gas it dies. I'm pissed because I brought it to the dealership reporting this problem, less than a year ago, I paid my $50 deductable for them to tell me that they couldn't find anything wrong. Now, no matter what I don't it won't stay alive. HELP!! I can't afford to tow it to them and pay them to look at it, and have no results.
Yes I am having the same problem with my 03 have you found anything out yet?
Clint

Wichita, KS

#176 Nov 22, 2007
Brady from maryland wrote:
I have a 2001 Ford Escape V6 and it has been a great vehicle, but recently I been having trouble starting it. The only way it stays running is if I keep the gas pedal pressed. At Idle it dies. I guess this is the Idle Air Control Valve. I think this apparently happens to many escapes.
Thank you I think you just answered my question
Jeanne

Southfield, MI

#177 Dec 2, 2007
My 2005 Escape has the gas pedal sticking problem also. Today it stuck so bad I had to pull over and turn the car off for a while to get it to work again. My daughter has a 2004 and it does the same thing.
alex

Los Angeles, CA

#178 Dec 3, 2007
escape 2002 sound wrote:
I have a 2002 escape and it started to make a sound when the brake pedal is released and the gas pedal is pushed down. It sounds like air is rushing out of a tube under the dash near the steering wheel column on the inside of the vehicle. Any clue what this is?
It sound like it's the master cylinder (brakes)
theres a recall for that you should check it out!!!
bohawg

United States

#179 Dec 4, 2007
I have a 2001 ford escape with 57000 miles , power window cable broke. put it in myself saved some money , the light was on in the overflow take for the radiater . not paying for the whole take , just unplugged. The transmission has always felt like someones hitting you in the back when it shifts at times. We have parked it and i no long will let me wife drive it till its sold. can not afford new transmission. were just fortunate to have 4 vehicles at this time..
JOAM

Longwood, FL

#180 Dec 6, 2007
[I HAD LAST WEEK THE SAME PROBLEM OF IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE. I GET IT FIX FOR $460.00 AFTER DISCOUNT. NOW I HEAR A NOISE IN FRONT, I GET IT CHECKED, THEY SAY IT MAY BE THE STEERING COLUMN, I DON'T KNOW BECAUSE SOME OTHER MECANICS TELL THAT MIGHT BE THE SHOCK/STRUT. CAN SOMEBODY HELP ME.
Liz Burkhart Florida

Kissimmee, FL

#181 Dec 15, 2007
Chris Hodges wrote:
<quoted text> I know that there is a recall on the engine due to it stalling out just as you described. Your supposed to take it in for recalibration or they warn you may crash. Also, watch for the car to accelerate and crash afterward.
I had this same problem & I now have a new Injector Flush & Idle Arm installed over $300.00 What I did before the new cost, I would turn the key over press on the gas 3 times but not start the car - turn key off and then turn key on and this would start my enging and remain on...real crazy have to do this but it worked until I had the new parts installed. Good luck Liz
Liz Burkhart Florida

Kissimmee, FL

#182 Dec 15, 2007
I have a 2002 Ford Escape only 31,000 miles. My shift cable seal that holds the cable & transmission bracket which was plastic has incenerated. As of today I find only a dealer will replace the bracket along with purchasing the entire cable & installation. I have been quoted two charges #1 $85 for the part & $185. for labor #2 $55 for the part & $150 for labor. Interesting that only the dealers have this. I contacted NAPA and they don't have the part and referred me to the dealer. I can install the seal and that is all I need but they don't sell it! Anyone have this happen?
Derek

Johnstown, OH

#183 Dec 24, 2007
Rachel Mayes wrote:
I have a 2001 Ford Escape and my drivers side door handle was frozen this morning. I pulled on it and it would open, I crawled inside and opened it just fine. Now I can open it at all from the outside and all of the other doors are fine. I can open that door from the inside but not the outside. Does anyone know how to fix it?
Mine did the exact same thing last week. I took the door apart today to see if I could fix it, and found that one of the components of the door handle broke off. All of the linkage is still there, it just doesn't have anything to get hooked in to. I'm going to try to find a replacement door handle online and attempt to fix it myself, but I'm having a hard time finding a handle with a key hole in it. Might have to go back to the dealership for this one.
Cris

Charleston, SC

#184 Dec 26, 2007
Liz Burkhart Florida wrote:
I have a 2002 Ford Escape only 31,000 miles. My shift cable seal that holds the cable & transmission bracket which was plastic has incenerated. As of today I find only a dealer will replace the bracket along with purchasing the entire cable & installation. I have been quoted two charges #1 $85 for the part & $185. for labor #2 $55 for the part & $150 for labor. Interesting that only the dealers have this. I contacted NAPA and they don't have the part and referred me to the dealer. I can install the seal and that is all I need but they don't sell it! Anyone have this happen?
Mine did this On Christmas Eve of all times. I'm waiting now to get the quote from a mechanic. Called the dealership and I'm 2 weeks past my warranty so they won't cover it and it's between $200 and $300 to fix. I'm also have teh problem with the gas pedal sticking then getting a sudden burst of acceloration. Also, my engine will shut off in cold or rainy weather if I do not hold the gas pedal down for about 5 minutes and rev the engine. I thought this Shift cable might be on a recall list but it was the accelerator cable (which mine has been replaced twice already).
Liz Burkhart Florida

Kissimmee, FL

#185 Dec 27, 2007
Cris wrote:
<quoted text>
Mine did this On Christmas Eve of all times. I'm waiting now to get the quote from a mechanic. Called the dealership and I'm 2 weeks past my warranty so they won't cover it and it's between $200 and $300 to fix. I'm also have teh problem with the gas pedal sticking then getting a sudden burst of acceloration. Also, my engine will shut off in cold or rainy weather if I do not hold the gas pedal down for about 5 minutes and rev the engine. I thought this Shift cable might be on a recall list but it was the accelerator cable (which mine has been replaced twice already).
I did have the shift cable replaced cost $55 cable & $100 labor. It didn't work the first time so I had to go back in to the dealer to get it fixed. Second time it seems to be working. The dealers are the only ones that have this part. I don't have any problem with my gas pedal sticking then again I also had my fuel injection & idle arm replaced which both seem to be doing fine now. Reading some of these blogs has me concerned all the problems there are with the Escape. Take care, Liz

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