2000 dodge neon belt tensioner removal
mario

Uvalde, TX

#21 Oct 30, 2010
my tension wheel is inwards instead of outwards
Dave

Saint Charles, IA

#22 Oct 31, 2010
I just replaced the rear hubs on a 2000 neon, I know what the front hubs to be replaced but I see the bearings have to be pressed in. Can I get your expert opinion on the best way to fix
getting mad

Southern Pines, NC

#23 Dec 27, 2010
just had tension pully replaced ,now car wont start,2000 dodge neon,help.
preach

Texarkana, TX

#24 Jan 16, 2011
what is the easiet way to install a new belt tensioner pulley..my assembly is good..the wheel is bad..on a 2001 dodge neon
Barry

Lincolnton, NC

#25 Feb 5, 2011
I think I screwed up I could not find a bolt or anything used to hold the actual arm on the motor I pried it off and doing so I think I have screwed up the arm or the mount that the arm slides over can someone please let me know if I have there was a very small thin piece of metal that popped off when it all came apart and the guts of the arm flew every where what can I do to fix this?
steve

Rockford, IL

#26 Mar 18, 2011
I have a 99/2000 neon 2.0 the tensioner arm broke does anybody know if the tensioner is all part of this whole front bracket?
They call me Supa

Frisco, TX

#27 Jun 23, 2011
friendly neighbor wrote:
Does anybody know the correct size to use for hole in the tensioner on the dodge neon 2002 to release it to get the belt off.
9/16 wrench. There's a tab on top of the tensioner. Pull it towards the front of the car. Voilah....
couple of friends

Middletown, DE

#28 Aug 6, 2011
this operation is quite simple have you any mechanical ability 12 and 15 mm. remove upper and lower motor mounts remove lower bolts from fenderwell jack up motor and remove upper bolts additional 2 bolts in p/s pump and presto ! almost done.. good luck finding part 45 min. removal time
jorge

Los Banos, CA

#29 Oct 14, 2011
need to take off a motormount plate ???
myk

Grande Prairie, Canada

#30 Oct 22, 2011
2000 Dodge Neon problems wrote:
I'm trying to remove the motor mount plate to get to the timing cover. I have loosened all the bolts but one,can't get 2, jacked the motor up and down and can't get enough clearance to remove the bolts fully. Does anyone have a tip for this.
remove the exhaust bolts.8 bolts then try to jack-up and down...
Chris

Melbourne, FL

#31 Nov 22, 2011
Glenn Wood wrote:
<quoted text>
If you're referring to the spring-loaded belt-tensioner that wraps around the power steering pump...I made three tools to carry in each of the family's 2000 Neons. It can be a one-person process. If you like I can send you the dimensions to make your own. If it works for you I'd trust you to make a small donation of like 1.00 dollar--if you can afford it. Even with this home made tool one needs to be careful that fingers do not get pinched if the tools is allowed to slip off while compressed.
Glenn,
Please give me tool info and email address to paypal

Since: Nov 11

Orillia, Canada

#33 Nov 27, 2011
I just successfully completed replacement of the serpentine belt tensioner for a 2004 Neon and I'd like to give back to this forum for helping me with some key bits of info by giving you the step-by-step on how I managed to get through this as well as correcting some of the statements made in this thread that I found to be inaccurate based on what I experienced.

First, if either the spring in the tensioner arm is broken OR the pulley wheel is seized as in my case, you HAVE to change the motor plate assembly. The tensioner arm is not 'bolted' to the plate, it is riveted, so it cannot be removed. The pulley wheel is held to the arm with a T40 torx bit, but it cannot be accessed while on the car because the timing belt cover bumps out over the water pump right behind the arm, leaving inadequate room for a wrench. When I got the plate on a bench, the pulley can be unbolted from the arm, but there is not enough clearance to get the wheel out from in between the bearing post on the arm and motor plate without bending the arm. Believe me, I tried! Also, you do NOT need a special tool to retract the arm. There is a lug on the top of the arm that fits a 17mm open end wrench perfectly. 11/16 works too, but it's a little sloppier fit. Just pull towards the front clip to retract. FYI.. all metric tools are required. I recall using mostly 10mm 13mm 15mm 18mm sockets and wrenches but there could be a few other sizes in there too.

Disassembly, Top.
1. Remove top torque strut, 2 bolts, and salvage the mounting block, 2 nuts, from the top of the motor plate for re-use with the new assembly.
2. Remove ground strap - P/S hose bracket bolt from the top of the motor plate and open clamps on AC lines
3. String up the throttle cables to the hood and remove the top radiator hose
4. Remove 3 P/S bolts from the front using the access holes in the pulley. These bolts are at 12 o'clock, 9 o'clock and 6 o' clock
5. Remove 2 bolts from the back of the P/S pump
6. Remove the P/S pump bracket from the block, 2 bolts, and the pump will slide out of the motor plate toward the front. Do not disconnect the P/S pump lines!! I also recommend stringing this up to the hood latch so it doesn't fall when jacking the motor around.

Disassembly, Rt wheel well and underneath
1. Remove tire, crank wheel to the right for additional clearance around the rotor.
2. Remove inner splash guard. There are two 10mm bolts stashed up in the top and one 'christmas tree' plastic connector at the lower rt corner.
3. Remove round access plug, exposing the motor mount bolt.
4. Unbolt the lower torque strut bolt from the engine. The strut can stay in place.
5. Drain radiator and disconnect the lower hose from the radiator so you can get the travel you will need to get to the motor plate bolts.
6. Place a jack under the engine and raise slightly to take pressure off the motor mount bolt.
6. Remove the motor mount bolt with a T55 Torx bit.

Plate removal Note: These bolts are quite long, around 3 to 3 1/2"
1. Lower engine to remove the motor plate bolt from the lower rt corner
2. Raise engine to remove two remaining top bolts. The upper left one is a pain, but it does come out if you jack the car high enough and pull the engine towards the radiator.
3. Wiggle out the old motor plate. Be careful not to crack the plastic timing belt cover like I did.:)

Once the new plate is in, just follow the steps in reverse basically. Be patient and you'll get there! It took me two days to get it done. Hopefully, by not having to figure all this out on your own, it will save you some time and misery.

Good Luck and God Bless!!
how many

United States

#34 Nov 29, 2011
Hours
John wrote:
You need to remove the front motor mount assy in front of motor, will have to remove the p/s and p/s belt, upper and lower motor mounts raise engine up and remove 2-3 bolts from aluminum plate, lower engine remove 1-2 bolts from same plate, remove plate and wallah
Max

United States

#35 Dec 4, 2011
Gman wrote:
You have to remove the bolt on the inside of the wheel well. Remove the tire and locate a round cover this houses teh bolt. It requires and star like driver to remove. Then you can raise the motor with a jack and get to bolts to clear them out of the timing chain cover. But do not let the jack down as you will drop the motor on one side.
to start out a (neon) don't have a timeing chain.try a timeing belt bud
scoot121

Allenhurst, NJ

#36 Dec 7, 2011
Re: belt tensioner:You might as well do the waterpump and timing belt at the same time!! Just had mine done, use caution when replacing the timing belt where the belt rides in is clean of any debris!! Mine was just done, the belt jumped, bending the intake valves..not cool!!
RON JON

Punxsutawney, PA

#37 Dec 28, 2011
answer for the size of the bold holding the pulley on the tensioner arm

I just did one at work i created a tool out of a t-45 torx and a 5/16 wrench i cut the torx tip down and i welded it into the open end of the wrench reason being is its the straight part of the wrench and its a tight fit and i also heated the tensioner arm because they are put in with thread sealer it is a frustrating job but it can be done believe me i did it
smatt

King George, VA

#38 Jan 29, 2012
Mine is a T40 torx bit I bought a two piece torx socket and pounded Theodore out of the socket body. I cut it off with a Dremel tool wizz wheel, this way when done you can insert it back in the socket. By the way the stock on the hexagonal was 5/16 ths.You can use a straight 5/16 ths box ratchet use tape on the back side of the ratchet to keep it secure while putting it into place. The length of the torx bit should be a half inch maximum . I was able to get the bearing and pulley or because it had seized and was in two pieces. Can't get the new pulley in because it is in one piece. Looks like if i pull the flywheel off it will go on. Need a three jaw puller, tomorrow is another day . Will let you know how I make out.
smatt

Aylett, VA

#39 Jan 30, 2012
Just finished, thank God!!!!!!!! Pulled the flywheel pulley have me extra room,though it was still tight. By the way it is a 2002 neon. I also forgot to mention, I pit a 17mm. Box open end wrench on the tensioner and took a metal S hook and studies through the box end and hooked it to the frame by the ac line. When I loosened the torx bolt I used this arrangement and also stuck a small pry bar on the back side of the tension idler in between the pulley . This is to give you room between the timing belt bump out . When you loosen the torx bolt, it rides the wrong way against the 17mm.and S hook. No need for the pry bar for reassembly . Though to put the new idler my son had to hold the 17mm.all the way toward the bumper this allows the most lateral movement of the idler assembly. Make sure you brush the torx bolt clean upon final assembly, this will try your patience and finger dexterity out. There is not slot of room for this very poor design. Thanx for all your posts and input. Good luck!!!
smatt

Aylett, VA

#40 Jan 30, 2012
The S hook is from a black bungy chord sorry.426
mark ingraham

Monroe, NY

#41 Jun 1, 2012
Glenn Wood wrote:
<quoted text>
If you're referring to the spring-loaded belt-tensioner that wraps around the power steering pump...I made three tools to carry in each of the family's 2000 Neons. It can be a one-person process. If you like I can send you the dimensions to make your own. If it works for you I'd trust you to make a small donation of like 1.00 dollar--if you can afford it. Even with this home made tool one needs to be careful that fingers do not get pinched if the tools is allowed to slip off while compressed.
looking at a male socket, tried 10mm graphite, fit but ate away, veneers indicate 12mm?? try goodwill or your local food pantry, I recycle

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