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Da-Chozen-1

Fort Worth, TX

#21 Oct 24, 2008
If your car ever dies again. Try turning your car on-off-on-off-on and look at the odometer. It will show you the codes that way. It will show a set of codes then it will show a line of dashes (----------) then a sencond set of codes. After the 2nd set of codes it will say DONE. The first set of codes are problems that are occuring now or present and the 2nd set is codes that have fixed themselves but remain in storage until reset. You cannot reset the codes manually. You will have to do this with a OBD Code Reader. But then you won't want to reset them anyway until the problem is fixed. It does show the crank position sensor code if it doesn't pick up a signal. I have learned this after spending tons of money chasing problems as well. Always try this first to see if you get a code. Remember you have to do this before unplugging the battery.
Peter

United States

#22 Dec 10, 2009
I haven't checked the posts in awhile but i'm still fighting electrical gremlins on my 2000. Right now it's something with the IAC. I'm getting alot of different symptoms, I replaced the IAC when the idle wouldn't kick down at all. The comp gives me a po123 code (TPS above max voltage) so I replace the TPS(again) with no effect. My comp has a crack in the case so I suspected it to be bad and replaced it with no effect. I pulled the IAC and turned the key on to see if it moved and the plunger shot completely out. I had someone else start it while I stuck my finger into the hole and I could change the idle depending how much air I let through. Figuring that I found the smoking gun I replaced the IAC. Now it idles down but when I turn the steering wheel it idles up to high to compensated for it. I know the IAC is supposed to do this but the idle has never gone up that high just from the power steering. The only other problem is that my battery is bad, I charged it all night and it still wouldn't crank. I don't know if low voltage in the system could cause these problems but I'm going to replace the batt today. If anybody has a clue please help. I have spent over 2000 dollars rebuilding the motor and now on various elect items and I'm getting tired of throwing money at it. You would think that with a bad IAC it would throw one of the three codes for it but, alas only the TPS code. I have also undone the entire harness for the tps and computer so I could trace all the wires. I was told that a bad ground to the TPS can cause excess voltage code. All wires checked out with an ohm meter. Somebody please help!!
Mark c

United States

#23 Aug 28, 2010
My 95 neon won't start, the fuel pump won't activate when i turn the key to on. I replaced the relay for the pump, the auto shutdown. Fuses seem to look okay. I just replaced the pump and it still won't even try to activate. I don't really know how to check if it gets power, but I'm guessing it doesn't. I've heard O2 sensors or the ignition module could prevent it. This happened when I was driving, the car just shuddered and died and never steered again. The pump never turned on again. The fuses look okay, but I didn't change them. Can fuses blow and not even appear any different?? I'm getting frustrated please help
Mark c

United States

#24 Aug 28, 2010
**Correction**

....died and never started again....
jje

Tijuana, Mexico

#25 Oct 31, 2010
Just got done fixing a neon 96 with the same problem ,it will give code 43 , replaced temp sensor and map sensor without luck, removed crankshaft sensor and it had a hairline crack on it ,when the oil was cold it will run for about an hour and 15 minutes ,then it will shut off and restart after after 10 minutes or so , then it run will rough, the sensor removed had a plastic housing , the replacement was made of metal ,another interesting fact is the replacement comes with a connector for splicing the new sensor which it has wider terminals ,also the cables going to the bundle were hard because they are too close to the catalic converter ,insulate them with loom wire protector to reduce the heat radiated by the catalic converter. Now it runs normal and the gas compsumtion went down.
Eric

Glen Burnie, MD

#26 Nov 1, 2010
2005 sxt 2.0, I just replaced a blown head gasket.
Put it all back together started the vehicle and was letting it warm up, and it shut off and will not fire up. I pulled the plugs and number 3 & 4 were wet with fuel, 1 & 2 were not. I've read about having to reset the cam and crank sensors. Does anyone have any suggestions on what might be happening?
rangerwill

Federal Way, WA

#27 Mar 24, 2012
I just got a 97 neon 5 speed its runs then dies wont start for awhile then starts
travis123

Lusby, MD

#28 May 9, 2012
jamie ely wrote:
air conditioner relay may also be the same (check number stamped on relay to verify) if so swap horn relay with fuel pump relay and a/c relay with asd relay and see if car dies after driving.
ok so mine 2002 neon does about the same as this guys but mine wont crank over at all. nothing gets hot like his that i atleast know of. mine will run for about 20 mins then die for about 2 hours then it will start again but i keep getting a big red light over my check engine light. someone help me out PLZ!
tony

Bridgeview, IL

#29 Jul 18, 2012
Peter wrote:
Now I have another problem ... Neon has been fine the past two weeks except that the A/C really drags the engine down. Today I got a engine light telling me random or multiple misfires detected. I reset the comp and restarted it without the A/C on and no more code. Turn on the A/C and the code eventually came back on. The first time the light came on all my gauges died and came back a couple of times. It seems to run perfect without the A/C going. Bad A/C clutch? I've been told when they go bad they can draw serious amounts of juice and mess with other systems.(ignition coil, gauges) Got any insight on it?
The problem has been resolved. It turns out that the main wiring hardness somehow got caught was rubbed such that 8 wires had become exposed to each other. They would "randomly" short - more often when going the engine was working hard causing the engine to stop. After sitting the harness would "settle" and the wires would separate enough to "un-short". The wiring harness was removed and the wires spliced and reinsulated. The labor was about $700. Bad but it could have been worse - a new wiring harness is over $2000 just for the harness.
tony

Bridgeview, IL

#30 Jul 18, 2012
The problem has been resolved. It turns out that the main wiring hardness somehow got caught was rubbed such that 8 wires had become exposed to each other. They would "randomly" short - more often when going the engine was working hard causing the engine to stop. After sitting the harness would "settle" and the wires would separate enough to "un-short". The wiring harness was removed and the wires spliced and reinsulated. The labor was about $700. Bad but it could have been worse - a new wiring harness is over $2000 just for the harness.

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