Neon dies out of nowhere

Fort Worth, TX

#21 Oct 24, 2008
If your car ever dies again. Try turning your car on-off-on-off-on and look at the odometer. It will show you the codes that way. It will show a set of codes then it will show a line of dashes (----------) then a sencond set of codes. After the 2nd set of codes it will say DONE. The first set of codes are problems that are occuring now or present and the 2nd set is codes that have fixed themselves but remain in storage until reset. You cannot reset the codes manually. You will have to do this with a OBD Code Reader. But then you won't want to reset them anyway until the problem is fixed. It does show the crank position sensor code if it doesn't pick up a signal. I have learned this after spending tons of money chasing problems as well. Always try this first to see if you get a code. Remember you have to do this before unplugging the battery.

United States

#22 Dec 10, 2009
I haven't checked the posts in awhile but i'm still fighting electrical gremlins on my 2000. Right now it's something with the IAC. I'm getting alot of different symptoms, I replaced the IAC when the idle wouldn't kick down at all. The comp gives me a po123 code (TPS above max voltage) so I replace the TPS(again) with no effect. My comp has a crack in the case so I suspected it to be bad and replaced it with no effect. I pulled the IAC and turned the key on to see if it moved and the plunger shot completely out. I had someone else start it while I stuck my finger into the hole and I could change the idle depending how much air I let through. Figuring that I found the smoking gun I replaced the IAC. Now it idles down but when I turn the steering wheel it idles up to high to compensated for it. I know the IAC is supposed to do this but the idle has never gone up that high just from the power steering. The only other problem is that my battery is bad, I charged it all night and it still wouldn't crank. I don't know if low voltage in the system could cause these problems but I'm going to replace the batt today. If anybody has a clue please help. I have spent over 2000 dollars rebuilding the motor and now on various elect items and I'm getting tired of throwing money at it. You would think that with a bad IAC it would throw one of the three codes for it but, alas only the TPS code. I have also undone the entire harness for the tps and computer so I could trace all the wires. I was told that a bad ground to the TPS can cause excess voltage code. All wires checked out with an ohm meter. Somebody please help!!
Mark c

United States

#23 Aug 28, 2010
My 95 neon won't start, the fuel pump won't activate when i turn the key to on. I replaced the relay for the pump, the auto shutdown. Fuses seem to look okay. I just replaced the pump and it still won't even try to activate. I don't really know how to check if it gets power, but I'm guessing it doesn't. I've heard O2 sensors or the ignition module could prevent it. This happened when I was driving, the car just shuddered and died and never steered again. The pump never turned on again. The fuses look okay, but I didn't change them. Can fuses blow and not even appear any different?? I'm getting frustrated please help
Mark c

United States

#24 Aug 28, 2010

....died and never started again....

Tijuana, Mexico

#25 Oct 31, 2010
Just got done fixing a neon 96 with the same problem ,it will give code 43 , replaced temp sensor and map sensor without luck, removed crankshaft sensor and it had a hairline crack on it ,when the oil was cold it will run for about an hour and 15 minutes ,then it will shut off and restart after after 10 minutes or so , then it run will rough, the sensor removed had a plastic housing , the replacement was made of metal ,another interesting fact is the replacement comes with a connector for splicing the new sensor which it has wider terminals ,also the cables going to the bundle were hard because they are too close to the catalic converter ,insulate them with loom wire protector to reduce the heat radiated by the catalic converter. Now it runs normal and the gas compsumtion went down.

Glen Burnie, MD

#26 Nov 1, 2010
2005 sxt 2.0, I just replaced a blown head gasket.
Put it all back together started the vehicle and was letting it warm up, and it shut off and will not fire up. I pulled the plugs and number 3 & 4 were wet with fuel, 1 & 2 were not. I've read about having to reset the cam and crank sensors. Does anyone have any suggestions on what might be happening?

United States

#27 Mar 24, 2012
I just got a 97 neon 5 speed its runs then dies wont start for awhile then starts

Saint Leonard, MD

#28 May 9, 2012
jamie ely wrote:
air conditioner relay may also be the same (check number stamped on relay to verify) if so swap horn relay with fuel pump relay and a/c relay with asd relay and see if car dies after driving.
ok so mine 2002 neon does about the same as this guys but mine wont crank over at all. nothing gets hot like his that i atleast know of. mine will run for about 20 mins then die for about 2 hours then it will start again but i keep getting a big red light over my check engine light. someone help me out PLZ!

Justice, IL

#29 Jul 18, 2012
Peter wrote:
Now I have another problem ... Neon has been fine the past two weeks except that the A/C really drags the engine down. Today I got a engine light telling me random or multiple misfires detected. I reset the comp and restarted it without the A/C on and no more code. Turn on the A/C and the code eventually came back on. The first time the light came on all my gauges died and came back a couple of times. It seems to run perfect without the A/C going. Bad A/C clutch? I've been told when they go bad they can draw serious amounts of juice and mess with other systems.(ignition coil, gauges) Got any insight on it?
The problem has been resolved. It turns out that the main wiring hardness somehow got caught was rubbed such that 8 wires had become exposed to each other. They would "randomly" short - more often when going the engine was working hard causing the engine to stop. After sitting the harness would "settle" and the wires would separate enough to "un-short". The wiring harness was removed and the wires spliced and reinsulated. The labor was about $700. Bad but it could have been worse - a new wiring harness is over $2000 just for the harness.

Justice, IL

#30 Jul 18, 2012
The problem has been resolved. It turns out that the main wiring hardness somehow got caught was rubbed such that 8 wires had become exposed to each other. They would "randomly" short - more often when going the engine was working hard causing the engine to stop. After sitting the harness would "settle" and the wires would separate enough to "un-short". The wiring harness was removed and the wires spliced and reinsulated. The labor was about $700. Bad but it could have been worse - a new wiring harness is over $2000 just for the harness.

Hope Mills, NC

#31 Jun 28, 2015
Peter wrote:
I have a 2000 base model with a 5 speed. It runs fine for 25 minutes and then it just dies. If I let it cool down for awhile it will start again. I have been chasing this problem awhile. The altenator gets so hot I can't even touch it. I have replaced the ECM, coil, altenator, engine wiring harness, fuel pump, throttle pos sensor, cam pos sensor, battery and I even changed the head gasket since a plug was getting oil on it. I'm at wits end and I'm tired of throwing money down a hole.
Try checking computer plug for oil, bad oil pressure sensor can mitigate oil all through wiring harness, as a conductor it can produce fault codes of various kinds, I have that problem on a 95, and see same issues on posts ghost problem replaced every sensor at wits end. Garage can't figure it out. It's worth the check.

Hamilton, OH

#32 Jul 31, 2016

I have 96 neon 2.0 liter SOHC with 140k miles. The thing has died on me 3 times now out of no where. I scanned it and got codes to replace the camshaft pos. sensor and bank #2 O2 sensor. I replaced them and thought that took care of it. Started a 5.5 hr drive to Michigan and after 5 hrs of driving it died on me. I scanned it and got no codes from the system. What should I check next? I have read on some forums that the crank pos. sensor may be the cause of this. Would that be a good place to check?

If you let the engine compartment cool down for a few hrs, the thing will start up and run but will sputter.

Items I have replaced:
Alternator, Coil Packs, Plug Wires, Spark Plugs, Camshaft positioner censor, PCM (08/2012), fuel pump.

I the only thing I can think of is that there is a wire that gets hot and droops over and grounds out and shuts my ignition system down. I hope this is not the case, but I can't seem to figure this problem out.

Seeking Guidence

United States

#33 Aug 15, 2016
jamie ely wrote:
I hope you got it fixed, i am also going to start using this forum it has helped me figure out why my fuel pump fuse kept blowing.
My neon did the same thing and it was a wire that was touching my muffler near the o2 sensor causing it to blow fuses....check under your car to make sure no wires are exposed...

United States

#34 Aug 18, 2016
On my 2000dodge neon the word bus came up when it started cutting off
Neon man

Taylor, MI

#35 Sep 1, 2016
2005 Dodge neon sxt will not start. Lights and everything work good, but when the key is turned the engine will not turn over. There is no click or any noise from the engine compartment ..
Neon man

Taylor, MI

#36 Sep 1, 2016
My 2005 dodge neon was running just fine that day then I started it up and then it just shut off like someone turned it off.. Lights and stuff works... Need help

Since: Sep 16

United States

#37 Sep 4, 2016
jamie ely wrote:
first you should check for engine codes using your check engine light. could be a problem if your gauges dont work though, cycle your ignition key 3 times, on off on off on (dont actually start the car while doing this). Then watch your check engine light it should start flashing. Example= flash, flash, pause flash, flash, flash would be code 23. flash pause flash would be code 11. see if you get any codes and report them here i check this forum daily since it helped me and have battled a few gremlins with my 95 neon. i am assuming the car turns over when you try to start it. One easy check is to disconnect your fuel line from your fuel rail and try to start the car and see if fuel gushes out of the line or take a spare spark plug and pull one of your wires off and put the spark plug and in it and hold the end of the spark plug to grounded metal and check for a spark. If you plan to do both please do the spark test first i dont want you to set your car on fire if you happen to spray fuel everywhere. However dont crank too long when checking for spark i have heard you can damage electronic components, i personally dont know how and have done this many times with no harm. Check your ignition coil that is mounted on the top of your motor, mine cracked and would not latch so it was not getting good connection. until you check for codes i cant really think of anything else without knowing if this is a no fire situation or a no fuel situation.
I am having the same issue of my neon dying. After reading your post, I did the "turn key 3 times thing" and from what I could count, it was 5 flashes and then 4? Makes sense?

Saskatoon, Canada

#38 Feb 17, 2017
I ha e 98 neon plymouth and I was driving and some idiot phased my gear into neutral for about a 15 seconds and I switched it back to drive and then my steering was hard to turn and then my battery light came on then everything died ?????

United States

#39 Mar 3, 2017
I have a 1996 Dodge neon it keeps dieing out of no where I've replaced cranksensor. Altanator . But it still keeps dieing out of no where but after it sets awhile it will start back up I'm clue less on this any tips
Peggie 2004 dodge neon

United States

#41 Jun 9, 2017
My 2004 Dodge Neon just cut off on me and want crack up could you please tell me what must i do

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