Dave Kusie

Canada

#21 May 4, 2007
Where is the fuse for the fuel pump located on 1995 Neon and which relay is it?

Since: May 07

Eagle, MI

#22 May 8, 2007
99 Dodge Neon starting - idling problems

Hello,

I saw your website and noticed you have a Neon and troubleshooting experience with it.

I have a 1999 Dodge Neon and since about February I couldn't drive my Neon safely so I drive another car, I want to get the Neon working again to save money on gas.

The problem started when my Neon started to blow fuel pump fuses.

I was driving along and made a right turn after driving on the expressway, then exiting, then made a right turn, it stalled. I had no idea what was wrong with it, I had it towed back to my house.

I did some troubleshooting and discovered the fuel pump fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and the car started right up, I drove it away, no problem.

Then about a week later, same thing happened. Made a right turn, the car
stalled. I checked the fuel pump fuse, it was blown again. I replaced the fuse,
the car started and I drove away, no problem.

However, the fuse started to blow more
frequently after a few days, then I decided not to drive it anymore without
finding out what the problem is and have it fixed.

It would be fine for a while then blow another fuse, but only when I made a
right turn. I checked for wiring shorts to chassis but can't find anything yet.

Finally, it stopped blowing fuel pump fuses but after starting to run the engine, it would die or stall out within a minute or so. I suspected a relay problem. My friend who has replaced his fuel pump on his Neon told me it's probably the fuel pump causing it not to start and also causing the fuel pump fuses to blow.

Anyway, this past week, I replaced the fuel pump, fuel pump relay, ASD relay, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and air filter.

The problem is now, it will start running but then die or stall. Similar to what it
did before I replaced the fuel pump.

After it stalls, if I try to start it again, it will start up and run but not run for as long of time as previous, then stall.

Next time, I start it up and it will run even less time before stalling out. It gets progressivly less running time as I try to restart the engine.

After 3 or 4 starts, it won't start at all. Later if I try again, a few hours later, the same process repeats itself. It will start but stalls, till it doesn't start at all, only cranks the motor.

Do you have any idea what is causing this problem? I'd really like to get this car
working. I appreciate any help you can offer.
jacob drennan

Canada

#23 May 10, 2007
i actually have a problem with my car... i have a 1996 dodge neon and when i 1st got it like 2 months ago i have awsome fuel milage, now i can only get like 300kms per tank.. and i dont drive it hard at all.. and suggestions what to look for .. becasue it sucks!
thanks alot,
-Jake
Jason

United States

#25 Jun 1, 2007
michele wrote:
<quoted text> I HAVE A 97 DODGE NEON SPORT AND THE FUSE FOR THE FUEL PUMP KEEPS BLOWING THE CAR WILL START BUT ONLY WILL GO ABOUT 1 MILE BEFORE THE FUSE BLOWS AGAIN WHAT WOULD U SUGGEST I DO FOR THE PROBLEM?
I had this happen. Turned out when we let the jack down a wire was rubbing against the cv axle. 4 hours and 50 cents worth of electrical tape and a zip strip it was fixed....
Need Wrench

Canada

#26 Jun 2, 2007
You may not have power to the pump. The pump is controled by the computer through a relay in the fuse box compartment gy the battery. That relay may be shot. You can exchange the relay with another which is the same like horn maybe. If that doesn't do it then disconnect that fuse compartment from battery case (2 push in tabs to unlock) and flip it upside down. Remove the bottom cover (held on by 4 tabs) and you shoul see 3 wires that are connected by lip-blade lugs. check them to make sure they are tight and make good connection. If everything is OK then check the wiring to your crank shaft and cam position sensors. If all is OK then check the wiring to the map sensor. If that doesnt do it you have to start checking the sensors themselves. At that point your local auto wrecker becomes your best friend,
Good luck
manny gunn

United States

#27 Jul 14, 2007
maybe its not the car, but your dealer's service.
Scott

Las Vegas, NV

#28 Jul 21, 2007
Jeff wrote:
Hello once again. I have found the problem. The Dark Green wire with an orange stripe that leads up to the ignition coil. A bolt that the wire harness rested on wore down the Dark Green wire to the copper, causing a short. The cut in the wire was very tiny, but I isolated the wire and replaced the blown fuse and then started the car. I took the wire and placed it on the bolt. Snap! Another fuse bites the dust. So, I got tape crazy and tapped every inch of harness from the injectors to the upstream O2 sensor. Pulled the wires in such a way that they won't contact the engine. Great! No more problems. SOHC owners, check the 2nd bolt that holds the Cam Sensor in place on the head. The harness sits directly on top of it. This could save time and money for some.
Same problem. Same, if not very similar fix. Taped off the same wireing harness. Bingo, car started
Scott

Las Vegas, NV

#29 Jul 21, 2007
Thanks Jeff!!
BJS

Stow, OH

#30 Jul 25, 2007
I had a similar problem on my 98 neon, the car just died while going down the road, could not even roll start. The fuse kept blowing for the fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump and still had problems. I found a wire in the harness on the back side of the engine chaffing up against the head. This was causing a short. Repaired wire and have had no problems since.
lynda

Halifax, Canada

#31 Aug 6, 2007
i have a 2000 dodge neon that has problems backfiring and sometimes when I am going fast than have to slow down quickly and try to speed up again it starts to cut out, backfires and is very slow getting up to a good speed again. If you might know the problem or have had one like this please send me some good advise.
Stevve

Plattsburgh, NY

#32 Aug 27, 2007
lynda wrote:
i have a 2000 dodge neon that has problems backfiring and sometimes when I am going fast than have to slow down quickly and try to speed up again it starts to cut out, backfires and is very slow getting up to a good speed again. If you might know the problem or have had one like this please send me some good advise.
i had a similiar problem- when ever trying to gain speed my car would start bucking slightly and some times backfire. for me it ended up just being the spark plugs but i was also told a clogged catalac converter or some kind of sensor could do it..an o2 sensor maybe?
Melissa

Springfield, MA

#33 Sep 8, 2007
I have an 02 Dodge Neon that suddenly developed the "dying" and/or not running smoothly problem. It started one day last month when I filled the gas tank, thought it was gonna die on me, lack of power, wanting to stall...so I figured it was bad gas. Let it sit a while and was "ok" but continued having trouble to this day. Can't fill the gas tank or it will NOT run. Hubby is a heavy equip mechanic and has gone through all he can think of, all the way to taking off the gas tank and cleaning out the fuel filter....HELP! Before I PARK it on the RR tracks!
Kent

Fort Dodge, IA

#34 Sep 10, 2007
i have a 97 dodge neon dohc and it starts and runs fine until it gets warmed up and then it looses power and starts to miss going down the road....after a couple miles of that it will snap out of it and run just fine.....we took it to a mechanic and he hooked his computer to it while it was doing it going down the road and didn't show a thing....any clues?...
Matt

Virginia Beach, VA

#35 Sep 16, 2007
the wiring that travels behind the engine below the exhaust manifold is a common problem for many rough or no start issues. it burns up, peel covering back and you will probably see that it is melted
steph

Pikeville, TN

#36 Sep 18, 2007
I have a 97 neon it runs good but sometimes just dies without warning. We replaced the fuel pump drove it for 2 days with no problem, then it just died while going down the road.I live on a mountain and it dies going down the mountain at the same place almost every time, but it always starts back after setting a minute or 2.Sometimes after I get going it will die a 2nd time. I hope someone can offer some advice the care is dangerous because you never really know when its going to quit.
Matt Ponziano

United States

#37 Sep 18, 2007
Okay i know exactly what the problem is
i just had this problem fixed its your wiring harness replacethe wiring harness i just had that done it will cost $450 to fix i sware thats the problem
Artie

AOL

#38 Oct 7, 2007
FIRST CHECK dates but the HEAD GASKET on my 1996 Neon blew and it HAD A RECALL but the dealer failed to tell me and I spent $700 on the job!
MY CAR STARTED running HOT, then oil was going into the ANTI-FREEZE and my THEIF mechanic never told me also about the recall (I found out he knew). FACE IT, mechanics, freelance or agency, they MAKE THINGS "happen" so you'll be back giving them EARNED money. Watch out for foreigners,it makes me blow a fuse thinking of these scumbags. BEST BET: research ANY car, bring a mechanic who's NOT yours and pray.
robert

Nashville, TN

#39 Oct 11, 2007
97 dodge neon died on interstate on my way to work it been a month now and dont know why i checked relays and fuses replases cam sensor and fuel pump then bypased relays with and made fuelpump work now fuel actuaters not working i dont know what i could be please help wife needs car
Mic

Dartmouth, Canada

#40 Oct 13, 2007
The car would start but put in gear fuel pump fuse blows.
After a lengthy check of all the wires on this circuit, it looks like there are several places where a short could occur. There were several places where the harness does rub up against metal. You need to check all areas,the injectors, the coil and all other sensors. Follow the harness which feeds everything. Re taping the harness in these potential problem areas (where you can see wires) should prevent potential future problems.In my case the culprit was where the harness goes back behind the engine down and runs above the CV joint. I found a bare wire on the harness resting on the CV joint (green and orange.This was where the sort was causing the fuse to blow. How the harness got to rest there was there is a clamp on the back of the engine. Over time the vibration loosed the tension and must have allowed the whole harness drop to rub on the CV joint. Re-taped this whole area, pulled the harness up and re-tightened the tension on the clamp. I also taped the harness to another cable to even better secure it, so it doesn't slide down again. You have to put the car up on ramps to get at it or put it up on a hoist. to see and fix it. If you simply pull the harness up and replace the fuse the car starts and you can drive this is probaly the best place to start.
Les

Van Buren, AR

#41 Nov 21, 2007
in reference to scott when there is more resistance that means there is less current, less current means that the fuse will not blow. high voltage would create more current that would blow fuse. voltage is regulated by the computer. or you could have a short somewhere, wires could be grounding out. i just fixed my 1998 plymouth neon same problem.

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