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Louis

Hampstead, NC

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#163
Oct 26, 2010
 
My dodge durango 2000 has the same heating problem. The water is boiling in the overflow tank, water pump replaced, and thermostat replaced. The auxiliary fan may need to be changed, it doesn't always come on. The problem of overheating comes and goes, worse on the highway. Maybe several hundred people should band together and sue Dodge for this problem with so many of their vehicles. We bought a vehicle name that we trusted and now we have to pay out the ass to replace parts that were not built properly by Dodge. Respond to this post if interested.
kane

Saint Michael, MN

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#164
Nov 12, 2010
 
same prob 2001 dodge durango over heating when it gives no warning i have it ripped down to the heads does any one know if i can leave the cams on the heads and drop the secondary chains threw the head and if i leave the cams on will they jump time when i take off the secondary chain thanks to any one that can help
Drew

Phoenix, AZ

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#165
Nov 20, 2010
 
Pam wrote:
<quoted text>
I have a 2001 Durango with the same overheating problem. No one can figure it out. Everything has been repaired or replaced and out of the blue it still overheats, cold to redline in 5 minutes. I have walked many miles because of this tin foil car, if anyone sues, count me in.
I have the 2001 Dakota Quad 4X4 truck with the Daimler 4.7. Just hit 85,000 miles and it just started occasionally overheating due to low coolant level. I never see any fluid leaking and assumed it may be the dreaded head gasket. Was replacing the front brake rotors again when I notice up though the fender well that the back of the motor had glazed coolant streaks coming down and when placing a mirror back there it appears that the freeze plug on the back of the head it leaking but dissipating before reaching the ground while passing near the exhaust. I fear I will need to pull the motor to replace these. I carry an extra gallon of coolant with me being these motors are heat sensitive due to aluminum heads.

My Dodge history includes an 88 Dakota 4X4 V6 that blew the head gasket at 75,000 miles, a 97 1500 4X4 that burned up the overdrive at 80,000, a 2000 2500 Cummins 32 valve turbo SLT 4X4 with a 100,000 mile Cummins warranty and a 100,000 Dealer warranty. At 100,074 miles the side draft fuel pump went out and took the injector pump out with it totaling about $4000 in parts alone. Dodge told me they didn't care if it was a half mile over the warranty and yet I went and bought a Dakota.

Toyota is looking mighty good to me right about now despite the media slander they are undergoing. To hell with American made. Just like everything in this overpriced criminally greedy shameless nation of ours, the contract goes to the lowest bidder and the savings aren't passed on to the consumer. Only the grief.
Nate

Laconia, NH

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#166
Nov 20, 2010
 
Drew wrote:
<quoted text>
I have the 2001 Dakota Quad 4X4 truck with the Daimler 4.7. Just hit 85,000 miles and it just started occasionally overheating due to low coolant level. I never see any fluid leaking and assumed it may be the dreaded head gasket. Was replacing the front brake rotors again when I notice up though the fender well that the back of the motor had glazed coolant streaks coming down and when placing a mirror back there it appears that the freeze plug on the back of the head it leaking but dissipating before reaching the ground while passing near the exhaust. I fear I will need to pull the motor to replace these. I carry an extra gallon of coolant with me being these motors are heat sensitive due to aluminum heads.
My Dodge history includes an 88 Dakota 4X4 V6 that blew the head gasket at 75,000 miles, a 97 1500 4X4 that burned up the overdrive at 80,000, a 2000 2500 Cummins 32 valve turbo SLT 4X4 with a 100,000 mile Cummins warranty and a 100,000 Dealer warranty. At 100,074 miles the side draft fuel pump went out and took the injector pump out with it totaling about $4000 in parts alone. Dodge told me they didn't care if it was a half mile over the warranty and yet I went and bought a Dakota.
Toyota is looking mighty good to me right about now despite the media slander they are undergoing. To hell with American made. Just like everything in this overpriced criminally greedy shameless nation of ours, the contract goes to the lowest bidder and the savings aren't passed on to the consumer. Only the grief.
Hey Drew, check out the product Blue Devil Head Gasket (sealer/fixer..something like that). It's $60 at auto parts store. I used it a month ago to fix a small leak in my 02 4.7 durango. Pain in the butt flushing the coolant system first (very important), but the stuff actually WORKED (kept loosing fluid and overheating). This stuff is supposed to fix all small leaks (head gasket, freeze plugs, etc.). What sold me on it, even though it was the most expensive of all those similar products, is it was just a chemical fix - it didn't include all that "gasket material" junk that would clog up who knows what. My mechanic said it's worked on 6 out of 8 vehicles he's tried it on. Good luck!
Drew

Phoenix, AZ

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#167
Nov 20, 2010
 
kane wrote:
same prob 2001 dodge durango over heating when it gives no warning i have it ripped down to the heads does any one know if i can leave the cams on the heads and drop the secondary chains threw the head and if i leave the cams on will they jump time when i take off the secondary chain thanks to any one that can help
This is what the Mitchell On Demand service manual says. Rotate crankshaft until timing mark is aligned with the TDC indicator. Ensure V8 marks on camshaft sprockets are at 12 o'clock position (manual includes a figure). If necessary, rotate crankshaft one revolution. Remove crankshaft damper and front cover.

Using Seconday Chain Holder (looks like threaded rod with a 45 degree bend on the non threaded end), lock camshaft secondary timing chains to idler sprocket. Mark one link on each side of V8 mark on camshaft sprocket. Remove secondary chain tensioner. Remove cylinder access plug, and remove secondary chain guide upper bolt. Remove secondary chain guide, camshaft sprocket bolt and sprocket. Remove 14 cylinder head-to-block bolts and remove head and gasket. CAUTION: DO NOT lay cylinder head on gasket surface. Due to gasket design, any distortion of cylinder head sealing surface could cause improper sealing.

Check heads for warpage. To install reverse removal process checking head bolts for stretching before reinstalling. Apply Mopar lock and seal to 4 small bolts and lubricate large bolts with clean motor oil.
Drew

Phoenix, AZ

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#168
Nov 20, 2010
 
Nate wrote:
<quoted text>
Hey Drew, check out the product Blue Devil Head Gasket (sealer/fixer..something like that). It's $60 at auto parts store. I used it a month ago to fix a small leak in my 02 4.7 durango. Pain in the butt flushing the coolant system first (very important), but the stuff actually WORKED (kept loosing fluid and overheating). This stuff is supposed to fix all small leaks (head gasket, freeze plugs, etc.). What sold me on it, even though it was the most expensive of all those similar products, is it was just a chemical fix - it didn't include all that "gasket material" junk that would clog up who knows what. My mechanic said it's worked on 6 out of 8 vehicles he's tried it on. Good luck!
That's the clear blue liquid right? Despite the guarantee I'm shy about using leak sealer on this motor being that it is so sensitive. I'm going to have to mull that over but I have been considering this.
Drew

Phoenix, AZ

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#169
Nov 20, 2010
 
Nate wrote:
<quoted text>
Hey Drew, check out the product Blue Devil Head Gasket (sealer/fixer..something like that). It's $60 at auto parts store. I used it a month ago to fix a small leak in my 02 4.7 durango. Pain in the butt flushing the coolant system first (very important), but the stuff actually WORKED (kept loosing fluid and overheating). This stuff is supposed to fix all small leaks (head gasket, freeze plugs, etc.). What sold me on it, even though it was the most expensive of all those similar products, is it was just a chemical fix - it didn't include all that "gasket material" junk that would clog up who knows what. My mechanic said it's worked on 6 out of 8 vehicles he's tried it on. Good luck!
I'm going to invent a universal freeze plug removal/installation tool that is designed to reach into tight places. Position it, tap a hole in it, flip down the the pry surface and reinsert it into the hole and pry out the old plug. Place a new plug on the opposite side of the tool held by foam tape, position it and tap it in. It'll be an elongated "C" shape with a sharp hardened point at one end and and a flat edge at the other with strategically placed tapping surfaces. There will be 2 models, one narrow and one wide for shallow and deep applications.
Drew

Phoenix, AZ

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#170
Nov 20, 2010
 
Here's a quick check that requires not much effort. Before shutting the motor off, crank the steering wheel all the way to the right and shut it off. Let the motor cool a bit. A flash light and mirror may be helpful. Looking up through the fender well examine the back of the motor as best you can. Coolant will leave a shiny residue once dried and will build up. What you are looking for is coolant streaks running down the back of the motor coming form the freeze plugs repeat for drivers side). These heads are aluminum and I believe the factory freeze plugs are steel which causes an electrolysis type reaction in the coolant where the two metals meet and in turn causes premature corrosion of the freeze plug. Sadly it's a 99 cent part that is so inaccessible. It takes roughly two or two and a half weeks for mine to over heat if I don't check it first. You don't want to over heat these motors. They are very popular junk yard items and are expensive when you can find them used. I'm going to attempt to remove the plastic fender well and pry out the old leaking plug. I am hoping there is enough room to get a small scissor jack or some other small hydraulic device or screw press to press a new brass plug in. If it comes down to it I will use a neoprene plug that wrenches in tight.
Terry

Bristol, PA

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#171
Dec 10, 2010
 
Well no need for me to mention what's wrong withmy 2004 Dodge Durango SLT. It's the same problem as everyone else, OVER HEATING. I am ready to take action and sue. Please count me in to sue. Just tell me what we need to do. Let's stop talking and take action.
Tammy

Alpharetta, GA

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#172
Dec 19, 2010
 
2001 Dodge Durango 4.7 liter engine:
I was having the same problem with overheating. The local dealership replaced practically every component in the cooling system.....turns out it was a blown head gasket....which was not discovered by the dealership mechanics, but by an independent shop when smoke and coolant started coming out of the exhaust pipe. I spent a small fortune between replacing parts that weren't defective, towing services, rental cars... and in the end a new engine. I loved my Durango before it started having this problem, but I'll never buy another Dodge product because of it.
Jody

Anthon, IA

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#173
Dec 29, 2010
 
I have a 2004 Dodge Durango 4.7 and had the same problems with overheating. It turns out it is the head gasket is cracked. They made this determination from taking it apart and realizing the spark plugs were wet (or had oil on them)....my mechanic told me that it means the head gasket is cracked and needs replaced. It will cost $2000+ (plus the 400 I had to diagnose this). Also I had it looked into before from the Dodge Dealer for temp and overheating on the gauges and they charged me $200+ just to tell me it was a sensor problem a year ago. I wonder if I could have avoided this issue sooner if they had diagnosed it correctly or if it was already a goner. I had it serviced properly (plugs changed, radiator flushed, etc... and this is still what happened). I am still searching for a cheaper fix. I heard the 4.7 has this problem quite a bit.
Jody

Anthon, IA

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#174
Dec 29, 2010
 
2003 Dodge Durango wrote:
Ouch...5.9 with same prob here...just changed out the thermostat and put a new water pump in it last night...still overheats something terrible...I didnt notice oil in the water or water in the oil so Im thinking its not the head gasket...going to try and flush the system tonight...dont know what else to do...the water isnt moving through the engine nor the heater core because even though the temp gets hot as heck the heater blows cold...might also try bypassing the heater core.
I heard that if the head gasket is cracked or bad then that would mean eventually it will ruin the heater core on top of everything else.
Deborah

Lancaster, PA

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#175
Dec 30, 2010
 
Crying the blues wrote:
I paid off my 2002 Dodge Durango on April 10. On April 19, the check gages lights were coming on and the temperature gage kept going to hot. Took it to someone, they said it was blown head gaskets. It's either 15-1900 to repair or 3000 for a new engine.
Your situation is EXACTLY the same as ours. We have 5 payments left on our 2001 Durango and it overheated about two weeks ago. Husband put in antifreeze. Took it to collision center for body work (unrelated) over the Christmas weekend. Drove it home Monday evening and 'check guages' light comes on, everything shuts off and it stopped within feet of our front door. Added 3 qts of oil because it was really low and the antifreeze is gone. Could not get it out of park to neutral or start it, but the lights worked. Without a diagnostic, mechanic thinks it may be engine is blown (head gasket). Can't even get it to the service center without pushing it, that's IF we can get the shifter out of park and into neutral. Can't afford towing right now.
Terry

Jersey City, NJ

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#176
Jan 11, 2011
 
Well I'm back again. It seems to me that the dealers are just trying to make as much money as they can. Ok, are you ready to hear this: I replaced the thermostat, water pump, fan clutch and had the system fully flushed. All this was done by pepboys. The next day it still over heats. Two weeks later I take it to the dodge dealer.
First they tell me it's my thermostat. I tell them it was replaced two weeks ago. Then they tell me it's my water pump. I tell them I had that replaced two weeks ago. Then they tell me it's my fan clutch. I tell them I had that replaced two weeks ago. Then they tell me the system needs to be flushed out. I tell them I had that done two weeks ago. Then they tell me my radiator is the main and only problem and needs to be replaced. Meanwhile through all this over a week I'm still telling them to check the head gaskets. They totally ignore me on purpose over a week. So they replace the radiator and tell me everything is now fine and they rechecked everything and the truck is ready to go. Two days later my truck over heats again. So I take right back to them and demand that they fix it again. They tell me I have to wait another week because they are too busy. I tell them I will not wait and I demanded they check my truck at that minute. They check my truck again and now they decided it's my head gaskets (can you believe that). But that's not the end. Through all this they were arguing and I really mean arguing with me telling me my warranty company didn't cover head gaskets and they do cover. I also gave them a copy of the warranty. They lied to me and said they called the warranty company and got confirmation from them. They could not tell me what number or what person they spoke to. So I had my warranty company call them to confirm they do cover the head gaskets, man was the dealer upset. Then the dealer wanted to charge me another $100.00 for checking again and something they messed up on. Then they started telling me my warranty company had to waive the $100.00. My warranty company had nothing to do with the $100.00. That money is paid directly to the dealer from me and my warranty company pays the rest. After I keep demanding AGAIN they claimed the warranty company waived the $100.00, which they had nothing to do with and never heard from the dealer. So now my truck is back at the dealer and the head gaskets are being fixed. I'm waiting to see what they tell me now.
JDs

Horse Shoe, NC

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#177
Jan 14, 2011
 
Was offroading... blew the t mount where the cap sits so replaced that... once that was replaced ther thermastat go replaced now Im looking to replace the manifold gasket cause im loosing coolent in the same area as the manifol... WTF 2000 5.9l Durango R/t 114000 miles on it
Mike

Oxnard, CA

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#178
Jan 22, 2011
 
This is like watching a train wreck. My 2003 4.7 Durango has been overheating for the last six months. I first replaplaced the plastic service neck fitting for the re-fill cap do to coolent leaking from the area where the hose clamps to it. I noticed that part of the plastic fitting was crumbling and parts of it missing. I had the dealer flush the system and was giving the ok that nothing in the cooling system was plugged. All has been ok until two days ago when on the last leg of a 250 mile road trip the temp indicator climbed to the max operating range and then the high temp warning light came on. I pulled over immediatly and found coolent escaping from the front of one of the heads. I didn't see any water in the oil but the dealer is telling me that it failed the block test, emmisions in the collent due to a bad head gasket.
I believe my issue all started with pieces of the plastic service neck fitting getting lodged in the cooling system.
Ben

Carrolltown, PA

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#179
Jan 22, 2011
 
Mike wrote:
This is like watching a train wreck. My 2003 4.7 Durango has been overheating for the last six months. I first replaplaced the plastic service neck fitting for the re-fill cap do to coolent leaking from the area where the hose clamps to it. I noticed that part of the plastic fitting was crumbling and parts of it missing. I had the dealer flush the system and was giving the ok that nothing in the cooling system was plugged. All has been ok until two days ago when on the last leg of a 250 mile road trip the temp indicator climbed to the max operating range and then the high temp warning light came on. I pulled over immediatly and found coolent escaping from the front of one of the heads. I didn't see any water in the oil but the dealer is telling me that it failed the block test, emmisions in the collent due to a bad head gasket.
I believe my issue all started with pieces of the plastic service neck fitting getting lodged in the cooling system.
Mike, also have an 03 Durango, my story is on here also so I'm not going to rehash all of that. We ended up going with a Jasper (reman) engine because when the garage pulled the valve cover to do the head gasket, valve train parts fell out onto the floor! He asked how long we plan on keeping the vehicle, I said we just got it in July so a few years at least. Thats when we decided to go with a new engine since the vehicle is in excellent condition everywhere else. Good luck with yours and good luck to everyone on here. I believe these 4.7 engines are the "Edsel" of today!
Terry

Jersey City, NJ

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#180
Jan 24, 2011
 
Jessica wrote:
<quoted text>
I hate to say it but you may want to start with a head gasket check - or sell it to the highest bidder if you can. We had to actually blow a head for them to actually find and address the real problem. I am still scared to death that the darn CHECK YOUR GAUGE light is going to come back on.
PS I have many posts as Jessica
Talking about the dealers trying to scam people and making money. See my two stories on pg.9.
Mike

Oxnard, CA

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#181
Jan 29, 2011
 
I finaly got my Durango back today after nine days in the dealer's shop. The costs for the repair was around $1875. A little more then half was for labor. According to the dealer I blew a head gasket. No reason why other then the miles and age.
Leasons learned:
What I did right; I had it towed to the dealer even though I could have driven it there, this prevented additional damage. I pay for and used the premium towing package offered by the Auto Club of America. For $120 a year I get free 100 towing. I was 60 miles from my local dearler. I also asked a ton of questions about the costs for the repair. I wanted daily updates and wanted to be part of the descions concerning what parts were replaced. I had the heads sent to a third party head shop of my choice which saved me $600 from the dealer automatically charging me for a valve job that I didn't need. The head shop gave me a warranty on top of the dealers warranty.
What I did wrong; I should have purchased an extended warranty years ago which would have saved me about $1000 and the rental car cost.

Good luck Duragno owners. Shit happens. I'm keeping the truck, after all the repair cost is better then a new 48 month car payment.
dee

Woodstock, IL

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#182
Jan 31, 2011
 
Mike wrote:
I finaly got my Durango back today after nine days in the dealer's shop. The costs for the repair was around $1875. A little more then half was for labor. According to the dealer I blew a head gasket. No reason why other then the miles and age.
Leasons learned:
What I did right; I had it towed to the dealer even though I could have driven it there, this prevented additional damage. I pay for and used the premium towing package offered by the Auto Club of America. For $120 a year I get free 100 towing. I was 60 miles from my local dearler. I also asked a ton of questions about the costs for the repair. I wanted daily updates and wanted to be part of the descions concerning what parts were replaced. I had the heads sent to a third party head shop of my choice which saved me $600 from the dealer automatically charging me for a valve job that I didn't need. The head shop gave me a warranty on top of the dealers warranty.
What I did wrong; I should have purchased an extended warranty years ago which would have saved me about $1000 and the rental car cost.
Good luck Duragno owners. Shit happens. I'm keeping the truck, after all the repair cost is better then a new 48 month car payment.
Mike. The interesting part will be to see now if replacing the head gaskets fixes the inherent overheating problem. I hope it does bro. It hasn't worked for many of us. Best of luck to you.

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