Duane

Nashville, TN

#41 Sep 30, 2009
It' the circuit board behind the instrument panel. It has a cold soldier that looses contact. Either resoldier the soldier points of get a new circuit board. The last time I had the problem I had to leave the van and the next day still nothing. I took the dash board loose and pulled the instrument panel forward and it started right up. The circuit board is attached to the instrument panel.
Duane

Nashville, TN

#42 Sep 30, 2009
Ang wrote:
I've had the exact issue - 1998 tc lxi doesn't start - gauges go out and is basically unreliable. I even have the tumbler issue where you have to hit the key to turn the starter. Anyway it used to work with the hitting the dash, but now the car may not start for weeks/months. Can anyone verify what is the true fix for this issue. I just see my money vanishing before my eyes.
Thanks!
It's the printed ciruit board behing the instrument panel.
Michael

Wilkes Barre, PA

#43 Oct 2, 2009
I have a 1999 Town and Country with the same problem. Today we had to disconnect the instrument cluster to get the car to start and keep running.
I believe this is a defect in this van.
Ladydi wrote:
I wondered if this problem continued on the 1999 Models as well. If not they must have known about it and changed something. Anxious to hear back from you when you get a reply.
Cortney18

Marietta, OH

#44 Oct 7, 2009
I have 2003 Town and Country that is having the same problem!Saturday night we had the van on and running. Took the key out for 5 minutes tops then went to start it and nothing. Tried to jump the starter, then had a jump. When it was jumped it started right up but then shut off. 30 minutes later it started again and drove fine all the way home and we were an hour and half away. Sunday it started right up and I ran a few errands. Later that day we went to leave and it started but then stalled as we were backing out of the driveway. We put in neutral to push back in the driveway and then it started again, Got us to the gas station then died and had to be towed home. Started on Monday then died at the auto parts store and had to be towed again! It is so frustrating. We have it at the mechanic and they say they can't figure out what is wrong with it. It started right up for them but after 30 minutes of running it stalled again. This is our only means of transportation so needless to say it is creating a huge hardship on us. Can anyone please tell me how to check the circuit board? It seems to have worked for some people and we have to figure out how to fix ourselves. Can't afford to pay mechanic thousands of dollars. We are a family of 7 with one income. I was recently laid off. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!!!
bihili

United States

#45 Oct 7, 2009
Cortney18 read this.
You cannot check the circuit board other than a visual inspection.
If you cannot see any cracks in the solder around the pins then replace complete circuit board.
Go to salvage yard or buy new from dealer and get another circuit board.

Rick Bethlehem PA wrote:
<quoted text>
Hi All! I HAD this problem with my 1998 Chrysler Town and Country. It would start and immediately shut off. I would repeat this 4 times, and it would not do anything. I let it sit for about 45 minutes and it would start and run fine. It was doing this once every few months. I checked with the dealers in our area...they had NO CLUE. My mechanic checked for codes...no codes.
I went online, and found a number of folks who had this problem, and changed a lot of expensive thing s, but it did not fix it. I found someone online who said they had a fix. When it acts up, hit the dash. The problem is the CIRCUIT BOARD behind the instrument panel. I tried this on the next "act up", and it worked. I tried to start and it shut off. Tried again and shut off. I then turned the key on and banged the dash ahead of the instrument panel (one good bang---somewhere between laying your hand on the dash, and trying to put your hand thru the dash). It then started and ran fine. The problem started to happen more often, and once while I was driving, the gauges started to "act up", and various dash lights were going on and off. Yep, one good bang on the dash (while driving) fixed er right up!
I was going to have my mechanic replace the circuit board, but he said I should take it to the dealer because the gauges have to be recalibrated, etc. I found the part online for about $325, but going to the dealer they charged $425 plus labor...$589 for the fix. They "diagnosed" the van and told me that they found NO PROBLEM. I said to just change the circuit board...they said they were not convinced that would fix it. I said to JUST PUT IN A NEW CIRCUIT BOARD. It has been six months, and have had no problem. GOOD LUCK!
Rick is correct. My circuit board also had three cracks around three pins. I put new solder around pins and it fixed problem.
Go to the library and get a Haynes or Chilton Book to help you remove gauges. The CIRCUIT BOARD is behind gauges.
Hitting the top of your dash to fix the problem will only make the problem get worse with time.
At least now you know what the problem is.
Beause it is an inconsistant problem most mechanics cannot find the problem.
Now quit wasting money for a new ignition swith and other items because it is your CIRCUIT BOARD BEHIND THE GAUGES!
Cortney18

Marietta, OH

#46 Oct 7, 2009
bihili wrote:
Cortney18 read this.
You cannot check the circuit board other than a visual inspection.
If you cannot see any cracks in the solder around the pins then replace complete circuit board.
Go to salvage yard or buy new from dealer and get another circuit board.
Rick Bethlehem PA wrote:
<quoted text>
Hi All! I HAD this problem with my 1998 Chrysler Town and Country. It would start and immediately shut off. I would repeat this 4 times, and it would not do anything. I let it sit for about 45 minutes and it would start and run fine. It was doing this once every few months. I checked with the dealers in our area...they had NO CLUE. My mechanic checked for codes...no codes.
I went online, and found a number of folks who had this problem, and changed a lot of expensive thing s, but it did not fix it. I found someone online who said they had a fix. When it acts up, hit the dash. The problem is the CIRCUIT BOARD behind the instrument panel. I tried this on the next "act up", and it worked. I tried to start and it shut off. Tried again and shut off. I then turned the key on and banged the dash ahead of the instrument panel (one good bang---somewhere between laying your hand on the dash, and trying to put your hand thru the dash). It then started and ran fine. The problem started to happen more often, and once while I was driving, the gauges started to "act up", and various dash lights were going on and off. Yep, one good bang on the dash (while driving) fixed er right up!
I was going to have my mechanic replace the circuit board, but he said I should take it to the dealer because the gauges have to be recalibrated, etc. I found the part online for about $325, but going to the dealer they charged $425 plus labor...$589 for the fix. They "diagnosed" the van and told me that they found NO PROBLEM. I said to just change the circuit board...they said they were not convinced that would fix it. I said to JUST PUT IN A NEW CIRCUIT BOARD. It has been six months, and have had no problem. GOOD LUCK!
Rick is correct. My circuit board also had three cracks around three pins. I put new solder around pins and it fixed problem.
Go to the library and get a Haynes or Chilton Book to help you remove gauges. The CIRCUIT BOARD is behind gauges.
Hitting the top of your dash to fix the problem will only make the problem get worse with time.
At least now you know what the problem is.
Beause it is an inconsistant problem most mechanics cannot find the problem.
Now quit wasting money for a new ignition swith and other items because it is your CIRCUIT BOARD BEHIND THE GAUGES!
Thanks for the help. I appreciate it. My husband is going to try this today.
Ian

Owatonna, MN

#47 Dec 30, 2009
I had the same problem and taking the dashboard apart myself and resoldering the connections did the trick! The problem had been a once-or-twice a year issue, then several times in a month, then finally pretty much every day and hitting the dashboard no longer worked - in fact, made it worse by locking it up completely.

Use the link in post #18 for helpful pics, get a soldering set, and do it! I had never soldered anything electronic before and I pulled it off. Of the 13 pins, you can tell only about half of them are used so I first practiced on the others. It has now been several months and the problem has not returned.

Thanks for all the tip, folks!
thought-was-hope less

Phoenix, AZ

#48 Jan 6, 2010
OMG...I have searched and searched..so many had issues with this horrible van, but wow.... this one hit the nail on the head. Every issue this person had, we had. So..I told my husband to go outside and trying hitting the darn dashboard....and guess what...IT WORKED!! CAR STARTED RIGHT UP!!! THANK YOU THANK YOU. I JUST LOVE COMPUTERS, AND THE INTERNET!
ken

Charlotte, NC

#49 Jan 6, 2010
DanB wrote:
<quoted text>
I have a 1999 T&C limited with the same problem for the past year. At the beginning it would start after a few minutes, but lately I would have to wait days. I had to leave it many times in parking at Lowes, Circuit City etc. for days. What I notice though, when I would turn the key in the ignition if the mileage indicator and the P R N D 3 L would not turn on, the car would not start. In my situation was a loose contact.
----- where was loose contact located have same problem
bihili

AOL

#50 Jan 6, 2010
Ken
It is not a contact!
Go to the library and get a Haynes or Chilton Book to help you remove gauges. The CIRCUIT BOARD is behind gauges.
Hitting the top of your dash to fix the problem will only make the problem get worse with time.
At least now you know what the problem is.
Beause it is an inconsistant problem most mechanics cannot find the problem.
Now quit wasting money for a new ignition swith and other items because it is your CIRCUIT BOARD BEHIND THE GAUGES
Robert

Pigeon Forge, TN

#51 Mar 27, 2010
My 1998 T&C LXi has the samme issues as mentioned above...and now has an added complication.
I took the panel out and re-soldered the connections (4 of the 13 connections were almost bare). Put the board back in, and tried it, but would not start at all. I had all gauges and could hear the fuel pump relay clicking on and off repeatedly. Turned the switch off and tried again, but I only get the fuel relay clicking. Replaced the relay, nothing.

Any suggestions?
bihili

AOL

#52 Mar 27, 2010
Robert, this sounds like there still is a bad connections on your circuit board because your relay was coming on and off.
If the gas line is not pressurized by the pump in the tank then it will not start.
Mrs Cherry

Browns Mills, NJ

#53 May 3, 2010
I am having the exact same problem. I bought the car from a guy and 2 weeks later the guages were jumoing around while driving and then finally it just didn't start anymore. The guy I bought it from says he never had a problem with it not starting which is hard to believe. I have in the shop right now and the guy has replaced the fuse box and wants to replace the computer. I am going to suggest the circuit board. Thanks, I hope it works.
Mrs Cherry

Browns Mills, NJ

#54 May 16, 2010
I had the van towed back to my house because the mechanic wanted to replace the computer. After another week of sitting, I went out and tried a diagnostic test on the instrument panel that I found on youtube. You press the reset and trip buttons in for 5 seconds and it starts a test. The car started right up when I did it. But in a few days it is not starting again. We took the instrument cluster out and will have it soldered. I will let you know if this works.
Wayne York PA

Red Lion, PA

#55 May 18, 2010
We have the same problem with our 98 T&C. It appears to me from looking at the diagrams there is an automatic shut down relay controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). This relay has contacts in both the injector coil circuits and the engine starter motor relay circuit via the PCM. This would explain why something is permitting 3 to 5 tries and then complete shutdown. Probably something in the PCM resets after some time passes or the battery is disconnected which could vary from PCM to PCM. The fact that it shuts down after running a few seconds tells me the PCM is not seeing feedback from some sensor that it looks for so many seconds after the engine has started. The fact that this sensor is passed through a connection on the circuit board behind the instrument cluster seems strange but a mechanic worth his salt should be able to make the same evaluation I did and have an idea why soldering the connections on this circuit board seems to fix the problem. I plan to pull this board out this week and solder it but I don't like not knowing specificly what components, sensors and wiring are directly related to this problem. Clearly there were contaminated materials and poor workmanship involved in the manufacture of the circuit board causing this problem which could be a safety issue depending where it left you stranded. My wife was stranded downtown on two accasions leaving work at 2am, not safe.
Laura Dans

United States

#56 May 18, 2010
so glad I found this site. Having the same problem with my 1999 LXI. So frustrating. Just spent $826 having the PCM replaced only to have it act the same way. My mechanic said we needed to replace the instrument panel. I told him to take out the new PCM and put the old one back in and give me my money back. I can't afford to put thousands of dollars into a vehicle with 140,000 miles on it and still possibly be stranded with my young children. Might try the soldering trick that seems to work. I don't know. I've already replaced the water pump, ignition switch and control panel in the 5 years I've owned it. Ran pretty good for me until this problem started. I also can not afford a new car right now. Don't know what to do. I have had it wit cars and mechanics both.
Charlie

Overland Park, KS

#57 May 26, 2010
Okay, guys and gals. If you van starts, then runs a few seconds, then stops. Then does the same thing a few times. Then, it won't do anything, when you turn the key. You have a cold solder in your dashboard circuit board. When the circuit opens, because of the cold solder, it trips your security system. The security system is made to shut off your fuel pump and other things so that it can't be stolen.

Just take out your dash and pull the circuit board. You will see the cold solder on inspection. Just get a soddering iron from radio shack and re-solder. If don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, find someone who works with electronics to solder it for you.

In the mean time, a good spank on dashboard above the instrument cluster will usually do the job.

Otherwise, take it to the dealer and tell them what needs to be done. If you don't, you can spend an arm and a leg, and they still won't find it.
Dexter

United States

#58 May 28, 2010
Thanks for this forum! I had the same problem, and my dealer had not run into it before. I sent him this forum, he found a used instrument cluster with the circuit board and installed it...total cost to me $217.00. I kept the old board to re-solder, just in case, but so far I have had no further problems. Many thanks!!
Bill

Little Elm, TX

#59 Jun 3, 2010
Same problem with mine, had it for three months and today was the third time I have dealt with this issue...the last two I disconnected the wire to the starter, replaced a 40 amp fuse once, etc and after hours doing the same thing it started, today repeated the above with no luck but 7 hours later it is starting, buying the for sale sign tomorrow.
I noticed the previous owner had spliced a blue wire into the original starter wire and had ran such up near the fuse box, like a bypass to the original or something, however the end near the fuse box was not connected anywhere, if you touch the wire to the positive on the battery the starter engages, but will not start. Any ideas? Also, where does the wire from the starter, the one with the plug, where does it connect?
Corey F

Strongsville, OH

#60 Jun 8, 2010
Same problem as everyone else. I bought a wrecked in the front "stunt double" for $400 to get parts from. I will try the soldering within the next week. If you need any parts for anything on a 1998 Chrysler T&C let me know. I'll let you know how the soldering works out.

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