driverside door panel removal
Christine

Ann Arbor, MI

#21 Nov 10, 2007
Oh, it is a 2001 Town and Country.
Thanks!
Tom O

Germantown, TN

#22 Feb 12, 2008
Phillip Ewing wrote:
"After removing the door panel and lifting the inner liner you will see the window motor and cables bolted to the inside of the door by 3 torx screws (torx 30). Loosen the torx screws enough to remove the two phillips screws that attach the metal housing that contains the armature and magnets from the rest of the device. There are two nuts that slide in small slots. Be sure to watch if they fall out. They can be easily reinserted. The metal housing with the armature attached to the screw portion of the worm drive will now be easy to remove. You will now see two braided copper hoops sticking out from the point where the metal housing came off. These are the problem. They can get caught in the armature. Push them back away from the brushes and where the armature spins. Now take the armature and screw drive out from the magnets and housing. Put the screw portion of the motor back into the worm gear and turn a few times so that it screws in. The metal housing with the magnets will now slide right back on. Tighten the two phillips screws. Tighten the torx screws (you may need to reach behind to the rubber portion they screw into to keep it from turning). Put the panel back on - don't forget to reconnect the electrical connections and door handle."
Phillip,

I read your artical about the T&C van I am having the same problem with my passanger side window. I downloaded your instructions on how to check to see of the rings were seated correctly. However I could not for the life of me get the inside panel off the passenger door. I unscrewed the two screwws (one behind the door handle and on in the armrest) I took off and disconnected the light on the door panel, I removed the insode seal around the door. According to my owners manual it should just lift up and out? I lifted pulled and wedged a screw driver everywhere I could. Concerned I was going to break something I stopped and thought I would post on this site to see if I could get some help.
Raul

Mansfield, TX

#23 Feb 13, 2008
Tom,

I just removed the door panel to my 2001 T&C. There is a third screw at the bottom of the door panel that you can not see unless your laying below the door. Run your hand along the bottom, towards the front portion of the door, you'll feel it.
Jimmy

Lawrenceville, GA

#24 Feb 16, 2008
Diane wrote:
Not a problem with my windows... Just a problem with my 05 T&C power locks. They no longer work. The only one that works is the hatch in the back and that just goes down when I'm driving the car or use the remote. My windshield wipers have also gone on the fritz. They work sometimes and sometimes they don't. Also the back window wiper doesn't work 90% of the time. Does anyone have any clues on what I should do?
Diane, take your car to the dealership. I had a similar problem. There is a software update that the dealership will do to correct this. There should be no charge for the update.
mike

Chesterfield, VA

#25 May 15, 2008
I have an issue with my drivers side sliding door. It seems to be a common problem, but I cant find an answer. the door started off not closing all the was when the button was pushed. It would stop short of being closed. When it was closed, it would not open all the way. It would stop in the same place. It did this for several months, and now it will not open/close at all with the buttons. I would like to fix this myself if possible.
Robert

Tyler, TX

#26 Jun 7, 2008
Phillip you were right on. Thanks for the great advise. After the repair the window comes down great but acts like it is in a bind when going up. Any suggestions?
happy camper

Elkhart, IN

#27 Jun 29, 2008
Phillip Ewing wrote:
"After removing the door panel and lifting the inner liner you will see the window motor and cables bolted to the inside of the door by 3 torx screws (torx 30). Loosen the torx screws enough to remove the two phillips screws that attach the metal housing that contains the armature and magnets from the rest of the device. There are two nuts that slide in small slots. Be sure to watch if they fall out. They can be easily reinserted. The metal housing with the armature attached to the screw portion of the worm drive will now be easy to remove. You will now see two braided copper hoops sticking out from the point where the metal housing came off. These are the problem. They can get caught in the armature. Push them back away from the brushes and where the armature spins. Now take the armature and screw drive out from the magnets and housing. Put the screw portion of the motor back into the worm gear and turn a few times so that it screws in. The metal housing with the magnets will now slide right back on. Tighten the two phillips screws. Tighten the torx screws (you may need to reach behind to the rubber portion they screw into to keep it from turning). Put the panel back on - don't forget to reconnect the electrical connections and door handle."
Thanks much Phillip Ewing!! The drivers door window on my 2005 T&C stopped working. Your directions were a god send. The only difference for me were some hex-head screws rather than torx screws.

My window is now operating properly again.
jnp

Denver, CO

#28 Jul 27, 2008
read post 16......fixed my window which was stuck in the up position and the switch would click after a sec or two....awesome, took about an hour and no money...
Edward

Neenah, WI

#29 Sep 13, 2008
My car did the same thing. Only, the repair shop I used just spliced in a rubber house, $100 bucks, 35 minutes later I was back on my camping trip.
Brent

Park City, UT

#30 Sep 24, 2008
I am trying to change the passenger door regulator on a 2001 chrysler town and country. The motor failed with the window in the full up position. Any one know how to get the regulator lift plates undone as i can't get the window down to get to them. Please help!
Jack

Grosse Ile, MI

#31 Oct 24, 2008
I tried a slight variation from post #16 when my window wouldn't raise. I managed to remove the phillips screws without loosening the torx screws, and pulled the cover down only far enough to get at the copper loops to move them away from the armature. It works! Thanks Mr. Ewing.
Andre Haddad

Massillon, OH

#32 Dec 20, 2008
my 02 T&C driver side window is acting up. it sometimes quits working and I have to grab the glass and lift up or push down and then it works. Any ideas if I need to change the regulator or the motor or both? Any help is very appreciated

Since: Apr 09

Portland, OR

#33 Apr 8, 2009
Thanks to post #16 of Mr. Phillip Ewing, we were able to fix the 2 power windows of my friend's 2001 T&C, except from some broken plastic clips hangers, everything was fine within 2 hours and save him $450 from the mechanic bill and more from the dealer. And with the FLEXIBLE MAGNETIC BIT HOLDER, we were able to unscrew those 2 philips screws and no need to loosen the torx screws.
Cheers to everyone also who are contributing to this DIY forum.
Phillip Ewing wrote:
"After removing the door panel and lifting the inner liner you will see the window motor and cables bolted to the inside of the door by 3 torx screws (torx 30). Loosen the torx screws enough to remove the two phillips screws that attach the metal housing that contains the armature and magnets from the rest of the device. There are two nuts that slide in small slots. Be sure to watch if they fall out. They can be easily reinserted. The metal housing with the armature attached to the screw portion of the worm drive will now be easy to remove. You will now see two braided copper hoops sticking out from the point where the metal housing came off. These are the problem. They can get caught in the armature. Push them back away from the brushes and where the armature spins. Now take the armature and screw drive out from the magnets and housing. Put the screw portion of the motor back into the worm gear and turn a few times so that it screws in. The metal housing with the magnets will now slide right back on. Tighten the two phillips screws. Tighten the torx screws (you may need to reach behind to the rubber portion they screw into to keep it from turning). Put the panel back on - don't forget to reconnect the electrical connections and door handle."
Mike Cunningham

Rochester, NY

#34 Jul 29, 2009
Ronnie James wrote:
<quoted text>Phillip, "Dude" I just want you to know that you ROCK!!! you were right on the money. The fix was simple, I just changed out the very same motor not more then 10 months ago and was very upset that I was doing the job again so I came inside and Googled the Chrysler Town and Country driver side door window and found your post. You saved me time and money and for that I cannot thank you enough. Keep posting your advice becasue I will be back again I am sure of it and I will be looking for advice from Phillip Ewing. You take care I am going to have cold one now that the job is done. Thanks again.
WOW!!! I followed the same instructions and it works like a charm. It's a bit noisy, though. I couldn't get the plastic pegs (2005 T&C Touring) that hold the window motor onto the door loose, so I had a helluva time trying to get the armature casing back over the armature and probably didn't get it totally screwed in properly. Still, the window opens and shuts smoothly but the sound is a little bit much. Now that I know what I'm doing, I'll reopen the whole thing. But does anyone know how to get those white plugs holding the motor to release so I can put the armature in more smoothly? Thanks again, Phillip!!!!! Saved me probably $300!!
Jess Ramos

Edmonton, Canada

#35 Feb 10, 2010
Skeeve wrote:
My 2001 T&C has the same issue, even though a dealership just recently replaced the motor. Now the window sometimes just falls into the door. Seems that this car is notorious for this issue. Also, on mine, the coolant lines that go to the back of the car rusted through. The dealership even admitted that it is a design flaw because they shouldn't have used steel pipes. He said they are using aluminum ones on newer models. It cost me about a thousand bucks to get one of the lines replaced and they wanted another 700 bricks to do the second line (which I haven't done). According to the dealership, the second line will rust through sooner or later at which point I will need road side assistance again :-(
I have thesame problem on my 1995 Plymouth Voyager, the coolant line for the rear heater pipes were corroded. Dealership is charging me $300 dollars for labor plus parts. I said no I will fix it myself. I bought a copper pipe of the same diameter as ther original and bend it to copy the contour of the original pipe. I did not have the time to paint it so I just put grease around it after installation to be moreresistant. I also wrapped it with insulation tube to make it warm faster during winter. I did it in 2001 and 9 years later to date, It is still working. That means what I installed is more durable. Factory part (pipe) lasted for about 6 to seven years. I save myself too from being ripped off by the shop.
dan

San Francisco, CA

#36 May 11, 2010
power door lock does not work on rear driver side sliding door.
Randy

Marietta, GA

#37 Sep 12, 2010
I just had the panel off of my driver's side door. The cable that makes the window go up and down is all tangled around a spool in the center of the door. The motor is operating fine. Can you get a unit like this to repair?
paul wood

Burnsville, MN

#38 Mar 6, 2011
have a 2997 town & country mini van. driver side sliding door will not automatically open all the way. you can hear the motor when you open it & close it, but it will only open about a fourth of the way by itself. Any suggestions would be so very much appriciated. thank you
paul wood

Burnsville, MN

#39 Mar 6, 2011
sorry--2007 town & country
mike

Warwick, RI

#40 Jun 27, 2011
worked perfect, ty very much
Phillip Ewing wrote:
"After removing the door panel and lifting the inner liner you will see the window motor and cables bolted to the inside of the door by 3 torx screws (torx 30). Loosen the torx screws enough to remove the two phillips screws that attach the metal housing that contains the armature and magnets from the rest of the device. There are two nuts that slide in small slots. Be sure to watch if they fall out. They can be easily reinserted. The metal housing with the armature attached to the screw portion of the worm drive will now be easy to remove. You will now see two braided copper hoops sticking out from the point where the metal housing came off. These are the problem. They can get caught in the armature. Push them back away from the brushes and where the armature spins. Now take the armature and screw drive out from the magnets and housing. Put the screw portion of the motor back into the worm gear and turn a few times so that it screws in. The metal housing with the magnets will now slide right back on. Tighten the two phillips screws. Tighten the torx screws (you may need to reach behind to the rubber portion they screw into to keep it from turning). Put the panel back on - don't forget to reconnect the electrical connections and door handle."

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