2005 T&C power sliding door
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mkycrzy

Utica, KY

#1 May 30, 2007
I have had problems with my power sliding doors...at first they would not open when the power button was pushed (overhead or at door)...then, to add to this, they might not close all of the way...maybe 4 inches open or the opposite...would only open 4 inches and stop....thought maybe it was ice in channel or chain (it was winter)...now one side has completely stopped working...I took this vehicle in to be inspected two different times prior to the end of the warranty and they could never track it down...of course after it was about 8000 miles over the warranty is when it completely stopped working. I have a friend with a 2005 Dodge Caravan having the exact same problems...anyone else??? If so, did they track down your problem??? Thank you!!
tlcmascall

Lebanon, OH

#2 Jun 11, 2007
My 05 T and C has the same problems with the doors . First the driver's side then the pax side, twice! Fixed? No!
Julie

West Jordan, UT

#3 Jun 21, 2007
My 05 T & C had the same problem. They had to replace the tracks on both my doors. Luckily I was still within warranty. Now I am not.
Justin

Skippack, PA

#4 Jun 26, 2007
Did replacing the tracks fix the problem?
James

San Diego, CA

#5 Mar 6, 2008
My 2005 T&C Limited has a problem with the Driver's side sliding door as well. It will intermittently open all the way then immediately start closing. I have to hit the door-open-button 3 times before it will stay in open position. Oddly enough, the dealer (where I bought the thing) couldn't replicate it until after the warranty was out. No resolution yet.
jackie

Rancho Santa Fe, CA

#6 Apr 18, 2008
I have this problem with my rear passenger sliding door. It either won't open, or will open halfway then close again(right on my 7 year old who is getting in the car!!!) Dealer said the reason was spilled drinks on the track. Since the cup holder next to that seat is such a piece of junk and collapses, I couldn't argue that we hadn't had spills. I asked them to clean the belt and such, at my expense. Siad they did. problem still there!
Bob

Mars, PA

#7 Aug 6, 2008
Wiring harness is a bad design. The wiring in the caterpillar harness breaks and causes a short when the door reaches a certain point and then the power stops to it. Many times the four-ways blink thinking that the door is still opening/closing. Wiring harness needs replaced. No recall as of yet. Gotta love Chrysler warranties!
Jared

Madison, TN

#8 Feb 3, 2009
Mine did the same thing, we have an extended warranty but apprenetly since this part is not listed on the warranty sheet, they said that they do not have to cover it. Part #4868122AE Dealer estimate to replace was $230 and $48 to check out problem, deducted from bill after it is fixed. You can purchase the part on www.moparpartsamerica.com for $82.96 +$8.95 shipping
Art

Waterford, PA

#9 Feb 18, 2009
My 2005 t and c passenger side door does the same thing. You press either the overhead, sidewall or remote control button, and it almost closes, but won't latch completely. When opening, it just unlatches, no movement. Original warranty replaced part twice - no fix. extended warranty, replaced parts twice, still no fix!
Jeremy

Mechanicsburg, PA

#10 Mar 3, 2009
Anybody have instructions on how to replace this part?(power sliding door harness)
Denver

Moscow Mills, MO

#11 Mar 17, 2009
I took my 06 T&C into the dealer today because my Drivers side sliding door would stop about an inch after opening. It would not work for about a 4 inch span. It was always the same spot. Long story short the dealer said I needed a new sliding door motor, wiring harness, and track. They said it would be $961. I told them that they need to find out what part was wrong, and to not just replace everything. They charged me $80 to diagnose it, and still said I needed to spend $961 to fix the problem.

I came home this evening pulled out the wiring in the caterpillar harness and found a broken wire. I temporarily spliced it together and it works fine now. I am going to go back into the dealer tomorrow and show them that if they would have actually diagnosed my problem, they would have saved themselves a customer. However, I will purchase a replacement wiring harness from another dealer, and demand my diagnostic charge back.
Marc

Laurel, MD

#12 Mar 30, 2009
My 2005 T & C is auto sliding door is doing the same thing, second time now. First time under warranty, this time not. Service Dept stated that is was likely the wiring harness which is in the track. Approximately $60.00 part plus 1 hour labor to replace. Read on another site that it is relatively easy to replace. There is a plug at each end. One on the van below the button and one on the door. Unplug the track and wiring and replace with new. I'm going to try it this weekend. I'll let you know what happens.
Marc

Laurel, MD

#13 Mar 30, 2009
Just found this on Wikianswers.com ......Disconnect the negative battery cable. You don't have to take the door trim off, just the trim on the pillar(column between the front door and the sliding door) and the lower sill plate(plastic trim like a door threshold). I took the bolt that holds the seatbelt in at the base of the pillar so I could get the trim off enough to undo the electrical connection. That may not be necessary though. You push down on a little tab on the top of the electrical connector and it comes apart easily. The other end of the harness is on the door and is visible below the door trim. That connector is a little trickier because it has two locking methods. You pull the gray lever down and then push a thumb tab in and pull it apart. It comes apart easily. Next the harness is attached to the bottom of the lower drive unit by a plastic piece taped to the harness. Remove the push pin from the electrical connector end of the plastidc piece and the other end will then unhook from the drive unit. Remove the lower drive unit cover by unscrewing two screws. Take a picture of the drive unit wiring harness path before disturbing it. The harness then just lifts out of the drive unit. The flixible plastic track that moves with the door is released from the drive unit by pulling out a thumb tab on the head of the track and lifting it off the metal pin on the drive unit. The other end of the flexible track is held to the floor(rocker panel) by a double push pin. Force it out. The new harness will have new push pins. The harness contiunes from the flexible track along the outside of the rocker panel cavity to the pillar. There is one more push pin that anchors it to the rocker panel. Force it out. Then you should be able to pull the whole harness out. Chrysler needed the VIN number to get the right harness part number. Yours may not be exactly like mine. My part number/description is 4868122-AE channel S 23009051. It only took me 15 minutes to put it in. After connecting up the battery, manually close the door. Then operate the door with the pillar button until it operates all the way closed and open. It has to relearn the force and travel limits again. It only took two times. This is how it was on my particular 2005. Yours may be somewhat different. The part at Chrysler was $71.00 plus tax. Cool!!!
rthaddix

Glasgow, KY

#14 Jul 29, 2009
Marc, thank you for your simple to follow instructions. I have replaced the harness and getting power to the door now. I tried to make it relearn the limits while doing so the door closes only a few inches at a time, when it reaches the fully open spot it tries to start to go in the direction of closing but returns back to the fully open spot ever time. Any suggestions Marc or anyone?
Bob Cincinnati Ohio

AOL

#15 Aug 8, 2009
I had the same problem with the door not closing all of the way and found that there is a break in one of the wires in the wiring harness on the bottom of the door. I replaced the wire and now the problem in solved. It was the black and red wire. If you are handy and a little patient you can repair it yourself. The break was obvious and easy to spot.
Good luck
rthaddix

Glasgow, KY

#16 Aug 9, 2009
Bob Cincinnati Ohio wrote:
I had the same problem with the door not closing all of the way and found that there is a break in one of the wires in the wiring harness on the bottom of the door. I replaced the wire and now the problem in solved. It was the black and red wire. If you are handy and a little patient you can repair it yourself. The break was obvious and easy to spot.
Good luck
Bob, after tyou fixed the wire did the door work normally after that or did you need to reset the memory. Did you have to do anything else after you fixed the wire. I too fixed my break but the door now only moves a few inches at a time. THen when the door opens after pressing the button several times, it will not shut at all, it tries to start to close but returns to open again. Any suggestions?
Dave

Campbell, CA

#17 Aug 21, 2009
Marc & the rest- Thank you for all the hints & repair advice- My '05 T&C's pass. door crumpled the flex-track, so I stopped using the buttons and only manually operated it, being careful w/ the wiring, pushing the wires in as it closed. then the driver side door stopped altogether too. I suspect from all your complaints that my wires broke somewhere in the pass. sliding door too. MY local(loco)dealer wants $154 just for the track, and $382 addt'l for the wiring, for EACH side. And then they wonder why we don't buy their cars- this is absolutely the last U.S. car I buy- I've tried to support them- since 1959 I've owned chrysler, studebaker,ford,mercury, lincoln(2),dodge, saturn,plymouth,corvair(!),che vrolet astrovan,pontiac(3),mustang,ol dsmobile(3)cadillac,& a ford econovan. The best of the lot was the 1970 Olds 98 LS for longevity & comfort, the easiest and least expensive to work on were the '65 econovan & mustang. I've also owned a '62 Fiat(economical and durable),'62 Jag MK II(expensive & not trustworthy),'68 & '72 Volvos(VERY expensive to repair, not so great as they advertise). Next car will be Toyota or Honda. Thank you all again for the very informative help- it is greatly appreciated.
Rurik

Baltimore, MD

#18 Aug 27, 2009
FYI, I just went through this installation and rewrote the instructions at WikiAnswers with more details on how to install it. The wiring harness (called a sliding door channel) was extremely easy and fast to install.

See this page:
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_replace_...
JON

Redwood Estates, CA

#19 Sep 21, 2009
mkycrzy wrote:
I have had problems with my power sliding doors...at first they would not open when the power button was pushed (overhead or at door)...then, to add to this, they might not close all of the way...maybe 4 inches open or the opposite...would only open 4 inches and stop....thought maybe it was ice in channel or chain (it was winter)...now one side has completely stopped working...I took this vehicle in to be inspected two different times prior to the end of the warranty and they could never track it down...of course after it was about 8000 miles over the warranty is when it completely stopped working. I have a friend with a 2005 Dodge Caravan having the exact same problems...anyone else??? If so, did they track down your problem??? Thank you!!
Hi there, ihaving the same problems as you mentioned and i am wondering if you ever got that fixed. also if it was what was the problem. I have also noticed that several friends have several issues with the electronics in this model. I thank you for the comment
JON

Redwood Estates, CA

#20 Sep 21, 2009
Hi there, I have the same problem with my power sliding doors where it dosen't close completly. I am wondering if the issue was resolved and what exactley the problem was. I have friends that have electronic issues with this exact model. I thank you for your comments.

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