03, Sebring, 2.7 liter engine, oil li...

03, Sebring, 2.7 liter engine, oil light flickering after water pump replacement

Posted in the Chrysler Sebring Forum


Orlando, FL

#1 Nov 15, 2008
I recently had a failed water pump, the pump and both belts were replaced,(Not the timing chains)
The rad was flushed and coolant replaced as well as the oil and filter.
30 miles after picking up the car, I noticed that when I came to a red light and come to a complete stop the oil light would flicker on and then go out.
I checked the oil level and while hot it is above the full mark, I have not checked the oil cold.
The mechanic says it's the oil pump going bad but I fail to see his reasoning as to why he feels its going bad,(he has none)
Does any one have an theory on why the light would flicker coming to a complete stop?


#2 Jan 15, 2009
I bet u have 2.7 EER V6 engine, right ? had similar issue... oil light filckering, car stalling sometimes, etc... there are 3 options... oil pump just like ur mechanic said, oil pressure sensor [if car runs fine, just the light flickers sometimes], and finally sludge buildup... hope it's not the last case.

Burke, VA

#3 Aug 13, 2011
Same issue here with my 2002 Lxi (V6)- water pump replaced and then oil light flickering while idling at stop lights. It goes out when pressing the gas and doesn't happen all the time.
I've decided to ignore it as a malfunctioning indicator - I'm sure a typical female thing to do - but seriously there doesn't seem to be a reason to do anything to the car execpt to make the light go away.

Richmond Hill, Canada

#4 Mar 20, 2012
I have a 2004 Sebring 2.7 it been flickering at a stop when warm for 2 year and the car runs fine never change the water 295000 on it

Guelph, Canada

#5 Apr 17, 2012
Have you checked to make sure the oil pressure sender is not leaking oil. If it is it will cause the light to short out. That will be your prob. The unit is at the back near the oil filter under a shield. Good luck

Hanford, CA

#6 Dec 29, 2012
I had the same thing happen on my 2001 Sebring 2.7L with 115, 000 miles. I had the oil pressure sending unit replaced and while it was off I had the mechanic test the oil pressure. At idle it was several PSI less than it should have been and under RPM the pressure increased (like it should) but it was still lower than it should be indicating a worn oil pump.

Start with the cheapest route and change the oil pressure sending unit and do an oil change. Sludge build up is a killer for this engine due to undersized oil passages. Regular oil changes are critical to the life of these engines. If the light continues to flicker after the sending unit is replaced you are looking at needing a new oil pump and it shouldn't be ignored. Unfortunately its a major job requiring the removal of the timing chain so it would be a wise idea to change that at the same time.... which if you are going to get that involved you should change your water pump too since its also driven by the timing chain. You can get kits with all the parts needed to do the timing chain, water pump and oil pump for $200-$300 on ebay and amazon. The labor is what's going to cost you unless you can do the work yourself.

Lastly, as I've mentioned along with hundreds of others regarding sludge problems with the 2.7's you can check for it fairly easy by looking under your oil filler cap. The bottom side is hollow and if you have sludge build up there will be some collected there. While the cap is off you can shine a bright flashlight inside the valve cover and see a bit of the valve train and the timing chain. If you see sludge you are living on borrowed time and will have two choices. One, you can ignore it and continue to drive it until it reaches its catastrophic failure point or two, you can increase the oil changes and add engine cleaners the last 500 miles before the oil change to hopefully break the sludge down. You want to be careful not to get to aggressive with the cleaners because you want the filter to be able to catch anything that may get loose. Bear in mind though that you are running the risk of breaking too much loose and plugging an oil passage...

Good luck!
ronald macneil


#7 Aug 11, 2013
drivers window won`t go down maybe swich gone

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