blower motor fuse/resistor
Pat Garaffa

Lynbrook, NY

#82 Jul 10, 2007
Phil wrote:
We have a 2001 Sebring with only 27K original one owner miles and wish I had bought a Ford. The heater and radio quit and sometimes the engine races while in park and the speedo goes wacko up to 120mph and all around. The car has seen the inside of sevice garages more than my 1958 Volvo which everythig still works on it. Does anyone have the directions and part numbers to fix the heater problem? Mine works only on the high speed.
Also does anyone know how to remove the radio i.e. remove the cover.
Phil,
I have the same car, same year and the same problems. The radio crapped out and so did the blower motor reister which only allowed the unit (heat/AC) to function at the highet speeds. Now my air bag light and horn are inoperable and they are probably related to the same part. Only 30K miles. Worst car I ever owned.
Paul Kazaras

Upper Darby, PA

#83 Jul 13, 2007
I have a '99 Sebring Lxi convertible and actually this repeating blower motor resistor is one of two recurring problems I have had with it although the number of repairs overall has been completely unacceptable. The warranty ran out last year when the car was 7 years old but before then the dealer repaired the resistor I think seven or eight times. The last time was the day before the warranty expired and the dealer put a huge disclaimer on the final bill (which was $0) saying it could not be guarenteed! Each repair seemed to last a year until now. I just had it repaired by my mechanic about two months ago and it has now broken again. I just spoke with him and will be replacing both the resistor and the blower motor. Hope it works. I paid about $2500 for the no deductible extended warranty from Chrysler and am very happy I did. The repairs on this car I think would have cost in the tens of thousands of dollars without it. The one thing they never could fix correctly other than the blower motor is the electrical tab on the rear window defroster. It came off at least twice a year and when I went to another dealer after several unsucccessful attempts at the one I had been dealing with, while it was under warranty, they refused to fix it saying the repair by the first dealer voided the warranty for the window (which was also broken by the first dealer when he tried to repair the defroster one of the times.) Anyway, I went on line. For $25 I got a kit to repair the tab. Has been great for about two years with no problems at all. Anybody needing further information on that kit let me know and I'll be happy to provide it.

I have been a loyal Chrsyler owner since 1990--I think I have had seven or eight of them. The last one I bought was a 2003 Town and Country Ltd. Again, fortunately got the extended warranty with no deductibles. The cars are very comfortable, and meet our space needs but the repairs are too time consuming, the gas mileage is HORRENDOUS and that 2003 will be my last Chrysler ever. My impression is that Chrysler simply doesn't care about dissatisfied customers and there has been a decided downturn in quality in their products since the late '90's.
Stan

Kerrville, TX

#84 Jul 15, 2007
I want to thank you guys and gals. My blower motor had quit and I checked here and several of you said to check the blower motor resister and wa la. there was the problem. It cost $62.00 to get it fixed verses the $400.00 something they wanted to replace the blower motor. And since I'm disabled and on a fixed income, I would not have been able to replace the blower motor. So, I really, truly, Thank You All from the bottom of my heart. Stan
david

Dawsonville, GA

#86 Aug 11, 2007
wayneo wrote:
Fan for Heat & A/C only work on high setting.
Anyone have a part number or info.
Thanx
Wayneo
does anyone have an answer for this question?
Dave

Glasgow, KY

#87 Aug 18, 2007
Replace the fan and the resistor, Problem solved, the fan is blowing it just like a fuse blows.
Brian from Chicago

Roselle, IL

#88 Aug 20, 2007
2005 T & C No Front AC Fan
My fan does not come on at all. Where is the fan motor? I think behind the glove box?
Any idea's?
Thanks - Chicago
Fred S

Austin, TX

#89 Sep 9, 2007
bath wrote:
MY HONDA ODYSSEY BLOWER WAS WORKING ONLY AT HIGH SPEED I CHANGED MY BLOWER MOTOR RESISTER AND ITS WORKING GOOD. I CAN HELP IF SOMEBODY HAVE ANY QUESTION.
I'd like to take you up on your offer. My 2002 Odyssey has the same problem.
Bryan Rubin

Melrose, MN

#90 Sep 10, 2007
wayneo wrote:
Fan for Heat & A/C only work on high setting.
Anyone have a part number or info.
Thanx
Wayneo
Any luck with this? I just came up with the same problem today...
Bryan Rubin

Melrose, MN

#91 Sep 10, 2007
Any luck with this? I just came up with the same problem today...
James T

El Paso, TX

#92 Sep 19, 2007
Wayneo and Bryan,

I've got the same problem. You will need to replace the Blower Motor Resistor. If it happens again you will need to replace the blower motor. I hope for your sake replacing the resistor fixes it. Replacing the motor is expensive.
Jeremy Mariano

Riverhead, NY

#93 Sep 20, 2007
I should have read this post a bit better my new resistor did not fit so I chopped away at the "horns" sticking off the resistor to try to get it to fit instead of filing away at the hole to make it larger. Should I use the resistor or should i just get a new one now?
KitBromley

Stafford, VA

#94 Sep 21, 2007
I have a 1999 Lincoln Towncar and my ac compressor seem to be working fine as stale cold air is present at the vents but does not circulate or blow the cold air. Sometimes it will blow normally in conjunction with the climate control module, but will resort to the above when I park and shut the car off. Sometimes it will not blow, and upon a hard acceleration or hard stopping it will randomly resume airflow. My wife is ready to torch the car and kill me, or was it the other way around?! Please help!
Goodless

Salem, VA

#95 Oct 1, 2007
Gene wrote:
remove the black cover under the glove box, you will have to pull It down and pry the plastic screw out on the right side and then you'll probably end up breaking the back one, then the panel will come out. Remove the blower by removing the 3 screws that hold it up. Then, follow the blower wires, and remove the two screws that hold the resistor (the blower and control wires connect to it) and pull it down and out. Then remove the wire plug(s) from the resistor. I just finished doing that today(12/08/07). email me if you have questions [email protected]
<quoted text>
I was able to remove the resistor and wiring component but not able to remove the resistor from the wiring block. any tips on separating these two components?
will

United States

#96 Oct 6, 2007
Ihavean02sebreingsedanthatblow sthestarterfusesometimeshavean yonehasthisproblem
Diana Christie

Clearwater, FL

#97 Oct 8, 2007
I own a 2005 chrysler Sebring convertible. This car has fallen apart! I have had to have the front wheel bearing fixed five times, door latch on the driver's side, the trunk latch, and this blow resistor and the car is just two years old. Of course, the car leaks when it rains and has since day one.
this weekend I take the vehicle into the dealer and they fail to tell me they are charging a 69.95 charge to run an AC test even thought I already told the problem since my brother is a mechanic. Then, they supposely fixed the trunk latch while under warranty and now they say it needs a new latch. Why not do that while it was covered under warranty? the problem is not the car, it is the rip -off at the dealership for service. One dealership gave me a different price than another for the same work?
I am not purchasing a Chrysler again!
kim

Redondo Beach, CA

#98 Oct 10, 2007
I have the same car withe same problem as yours. Could you please help me how to fix. I could not find where the blower resistor is in my mini van. Thanks
bath wrote:
MY HONDA ODYSSEY BLOWER WAS WORKING ONLY AT HIGH SPEED I CHANGED MY BLOWER MOTOR RESISTER AND ITS WORKING GOOD. I CAN HELP IF SOMEBODY HAVE ANY QUESTION.
Goodlaee

AOL

#99 Oct 12, 2007
bath wrote:
MY HONDA ODYSSEY BLOWER WAS WORKING ONLY AT HIGH SPEED I CHANGED MY BLOWER MOTOR RESISTER AND ITS WORKING GOOD. I CAN HELP IF SOMEBODY HAVE ANY QUESTION.
I can not remove the resistor from the wiring plug. I removed the red latch but still can not seperate the two. Any tips?
Tim

Springfield, VA

#100 Oct 15, 2007
Last week, my Dodge 2003 Grand Caravan ES blower motor began to operate on hi-speed setting. It didn't matter whether the A/C was on or off - the blower would run at hi-speed. Trouble shooting indicated that the blower motor resistor wasn't working (used a Fluke multimeter). Most readings were around 125 Ohms, however, one connection test reached 2000 Ohms. A sure sign something could be amiss. For the last body style (2002-2007?) the blower motor resistor can be found behind the glove box. To remove, open the GB fully and depress the two tabs (top corners) and the GB should fall away. The resistor is on the left as you look behind the GB. You will need a 5/16 or 8mm socket to remove the 2 screws holding it in place. What I've learned is that there are TWO types of resistors - expensive and inexpensive. If you have Auto Temp Control (ATC) like me, congratulations, you're in the expensive bracket ($65 vs $17). There are two part numbers - 04885482AC and 04885482AA/D - with the latter being for the ATC model. Doesn't matter whether it's the Dodge Grand Caravan or the Chrysler T&C models; not sure if it works for other Chrysler/Dodge models. And now for the bad news - there is a backorder for either part. I was told this after contacting several Dodge dealerships in the Wash, DC area. Even worse, the new part for ATC models is a dealer-only part and I can't find one at my local automobile junk yard either. I hope this helps and good luck.
Greg

Phenix City, AL

#101 Nov 24, 2007
Tim wrote:
Last week, my Dodge 2003 Grand Caravan ES blower motor began to operate on hi-speed setting. It didn't matter whether the A/C was on or off - the blower would run at hi-speed. Trouble shooting indicated that the blower motor resistor wasn't working (used a Fluke multimeter). Most readings were around 125 Ohms, however, one connection test reached 2000 Ohms. A sure sign something could be amiss. For the last body style (2002-2007?) the blower motor resistor can be found behind the glove box. To remove, open the GB fully and depress the two tabs (top corners) and the GB should fall away. The resistor is on the left as you look behind the GB. You will need a 5/16 or 8mm socket to remove the 2 screws holding it in place. What I've learned is that there are TWO types of resistors - expensive and inexpensive. If you have Auto Temp Control (ATC) like me, congratulations, you're in the expensive bracket ($65 vs $17). There are two part numbers - 04885482AC and 04885482AA/D - with the latter being for the ATC model. Doesn't matter whether it's the Dodge Grand Caravan or the Chrysler T&C models; not sure if it works for other Chrysler/Dodge models. And now for the bad news - there is a backorder for either part. I was told this after contacting several Dodge dealerships in the Wash, DC area. Even worse, the new part for ATC models is a dealer-only part and I can't find one at my local automobile junk yard either. I hope this helps and good luck.
Tim,
Mine is a 2002 GC-ES and my blower went on parmanent "HIGH" today. I pulled the blower controller and wondered if the 04885482AA/D component actually fixed the problem. Thanks! Greg ([email protected])
jjdees

Utica, KY

#102 Dec 24, 2007
Kerry wrote:
My wife drives an 02 convert. I just purchased a resistor from the stealership and am going to put it in myself. I really cannot complain though I have had only this go wrong. Except the top seemed to leak air in the front until I figured out how to tighten the top closer to the windshield. If it gives me to much prob I will light the dealer up and maybe have a long heart to heart discussion until he gives me his direct attention.
Where is the resistor located on the convertible?

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