blower motor fuse/resistor
Ken

Raleigh, NC

#41 Jan 6, 2007
I have a 2001 Town and Coutry and have the same issue. I have replaced the Blower motor REsistor twice. the first time the fix lasted 6 months. The second time it lasted for 1 week. I guess I am going to have to replace the blower motor as well. For those who don;t know the blower motor resistor is behind the glove box and very easy to get to. Remove the glove box and there are just two screws to take it out and replace it. Sounds like chrysler has a systemic problem with this part.

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PJW

Maple Grove, MN

#42 Jan 6, 2007
Have 2001 Dodge Stratus (pile) just replaces front wheel bearings @ 64+k miles. Now the resistor has failed. Blows on high only. Any feedback on the blower motor cost.
Gene

Grand Blanc, MI

#43 Jan 8, 2007
remove the black cover under the glove box, you will have to pull It down and pry the plastic screw out on the right side and then you'll probably end up breaking the back one, then the panel will come out. Remove the blower by removing the 3 screws that hold it up. Then, follow the blower wires, and remove the two screws that hold the resistor (the blower and control wires connect to it) and pull it down and out. Then remove the wire plug(s) from the resistor. I just finished doing that today(12/08/07). email me if you have questions [email protected]
Mary wrote:
Can anyone tell me where to find the directions for replacing the resistor for the heater fan? We couldn't find it by the firewall or under the dash. Thank you in advance
<quoted text>
mmr

Watertown, MA

#44 Jan 10, 2007
Anyone know why my 1999 Sebring will not warm up until I drive the car? It's getting cold and I can't defrost my windows unless I drive until the car engine is warmed???? Help
Jim - Missouri

Inver Grove Heights, MN

#45 Jan 10, 2007
mmr wrote:
I have a 1999 Sebring convertible that has the same problem with the blower. I also do not get any heat until I drive the car and the car temp indicator is in the middle. The car does not warm up by simply starting it and letting it run in the driveway. Anyone know what the problem could be and how much it should cost to repair?
I only had warm air when my 2001 Sebring was warmed up and moving, as soon as I stopped it got cold. Local mechanic backflushed the heater core and fixed it -$60.
Dennie M

Florence, KY

#46 Jan 11, 2007
I have the same resistor problem with my 2002 Sebring conv. Can some one email me the instructions on how to replace the resistor/blower motor and after market blower motor part number. email to [email protected]
Thanks,
Dennie
Michael wrote:
Hey Wayne ,
What are part numbers and instructions on how completed job. email me at [email protected]
<quoted text>
Ken

Hedgesville, WV

#47 Jan 18, 2007
wayneo wrote:
Fan for Heat & A/C only work on high setting.
Anyone have a part number or info.
Thanx
Wayneo
Sounds like the blower motor resistor unit. Its a control module that costs around $63. It controls the fan speed in heating/a/c blower in the front.
Bill

Yorba Linda, CA

#48 Jan 19, 2007
I have the same problem with my 2001 Chrysler Town & Country minivan. I am having to replace the blower resistor pack at shorter and shorter intervals. Also, the blower is starting to whine, so I know I need to replace the blower motor.

The local Napa store said it looks like a dealer only part. If anyone knows differently, I would like to find an alternate (less expensive) source for the motor.

Also, if anyone has experience doing the blower motor replacement, would you mind sharing the procedure and any tips you learned?

Thanks

Bill
Moe

Arlington, VA

#49 Jan 25, 2007
I came here looking for solutions but it just appears people love whining about their Blower Motor problems. Since there is not one single suggestion, I took it upon myself to get answers from AllData and share it with y'all. Hope it helps (Hey at least it is better than all the whining and no solutions)

A: The blower motor in your vehicle receives power from the blower motor relay. When the ignition is turned off the relay is deactivated preventing electrical power going to the blower motor. If you turn the ignition switch off and the blower motor continues to operate it is likely that the blower motor relay is defective. As for your speed problem that sounds interesting. As mentioned earlier power is supplied to the blow motor via a relay. The blower motor's speed is controlled on the ground side by the blower motor speed switch in the A/C Heater Control Module. The most common cause for loss of blower speeds is the blower motor's resistor block. The blower motor resistor block provides for all of the different blower speeds other than high. High by-passes the resistor block, goes through the switch to ground, allowing the blower motor to run as fast as it can with all the electricity it needs. If the lower speeds are missing go back to the resistor block, you may have mixed up the wires when they were repaired, maybe a bad connection or a failed resistor block. If you find that the resistor block has failed again check your work very closely on the wiring repair. Last but not the least expensive is the part that holds the blower motor switch- the A/C Heater Control Module. "Module" is another word for computer and the blower switch activates different drivers for the different blower speeds. Yeah, drivers are computer type things that can be damaged or just go bad. If all of your repairs check out and it's looking like the blower switch is the cause you'll get to replace the A/C Heater Control Module. When you buy the A/C Heater Control Module you get the blower switch free (something like that) it all comes as one unit. Hopefully there's just a relay and a mix-up on the resistor wires and/or a failed resistor. A damaged A/C Heater Control Module will put a good dent in the charge card.
Nils

Tacoma, WA

#50 Jan 27, 2007
I'm having the same issue with the blower fan. It wasn't working for the first 2 settings. Now it doesn't work at all. At first i thought a fuse went, but it wasn't.

I thought I needed a new fan motor, Thanks for the potential solutions.
Scott

Chicago, IL

#51 Feb 6, 2007
I have 2002 Chrysler Town and Country, I have had nothing but problems with it since buying it. Leaky transmissions, power steering hose blowing,,, it goes on and on. Recently the Heater blower works only on high, both front and rear. Imagine both going at once. Once I pulled the blower resistor out, I found that the only thing bad on it was a little resistor which can be changed for a mere 35 cents. Yet, chrysler charges $45 dollars for the whole assembly. It is so easy to change the resistor, just go to your local Radio Shack and buy a suitable replacement, one that is a little stronger and won't blow every couple months. Seems Chrysler knows about this problem and are making millions of dollars off of this. Shame on them,, no wonder they are going out of business. Shitty product, shitty business..!!! Will never buy Chrysler ever again.! Hope this helps you all.
Mat Genter

Bronx, NY

#52 Feb 7, 2007
My 2001 sebring also had problems with the blower. I replaced the resistor plate located under the glove box. It cost $42.00. After I replaced the resistor it still did not work. after spending 2 hours on my knees using a mirror only to find out It still did not work I lost my temper and hit the fan motor with my 1/4 inch drive racket just to the right of the resistor plate and the dam thing started working. It turns out the blower motor was sticking and thats why the resistor plate went bad. It took more jucie to turn the motor, thats why it would only work on high.
Bob

Richmond, VA

#53 Feb 10, 2007
wayneo wrote:
Fan for Heat & A/C only work on high setting.
Anyone have a part number or info.
Thanx
Wayneo
For what it's worth department:
1) Having only high speed on the fan control definately indicates ALL resistors are blown (each speed other than high have a seperate resistor, high has no resistor).
2) The resistors don't just decide to quit unless they are overheated or under rated. I go with the overheated and will assume that if all resistors are blown, the blower motor is bad as well and should be replaced.

Most likely that is why resistor blow when replaced on the same motor.

As I said, FWIW
Dan

Claremont, Canada

#54 Feb 14, 2007
I have a 1999 Pontiac Sunfire and need to change the blower fan resistor.Can someone tell me where it is located.
John

Fraser, MI

#55 Feb 19, 2007
Regarding the blower speeds, if the blower works on high, but not the slower speeds, it is the resistor block. As others have pointed out, high blower speed feeds the blower motor with the full 12V (vs a reduced voltage via a resistor or series of resistors). I found new resistor blocks on the web for $11.19 (~$15 dealer part).
Cameron

United States

#56 Feb 23, 2007
I have a 2002 Sebring LXi, and my blower motor resistor has been out now for sometime. My only settings that work are three and four. Sometimes I really need one and two in this winter weather here in Michigan, and its either turning it off and getting cold quick, or burning my face off. Also, I am having this issue with the heat only working when I press the gas pedal. When I stop at stoplights, the air turns instantly cold. Like... really cold! When the light turns green, the heat kicks back quickly. Can anyone describe procedure for this problem. I kind of already got the hint for the blower motor resistor.
Rick

Troy, MI

#57 Feb 26, 2007
I have a 2004 Seibring and my blower motor went out a month ago and only works on high. Sounds like this is a common problem with the seibring.
Warren

Mahwah, NJ

#58 Mar 1, 2007
Scott,

I am having a blower issue as well on my 2002 mini van. Where is the blower resister found?
Scott wrote:
I have 2002 Chrysler Town and Country, I have had nothing but problems with it since buying it. Leaky transmissions, power steering hose blowing,,, it goes on and on. Recently the Heater blower works only on high, both front and rear. Imagine both going at once. Once I pulled the blower resistor out, I found that the only thing bad on it was a little resistor which can be changed for a mere 35 cents. Yet, chrysler charges $45 dollars for the whole assembly. It is so easy to change the resistor, just go to your local Radio Shack and buy a suitable replacement, one that is a little stronger and won't blow every couple months. Seems Chrysler knows about this problem and are making millions of dollars off of this. Shame on them,, no wonder they are going out of business. Shitty product, shitty business..!!! Will never buy Chrysler ever again.! Hope this helps you all.
Tom

Port Deposit, MD

#59 Mar 5, 2007
For what it is worth, I'm replacing my 2001 Town and Country Resistance Block and found that there is a cabin air filtration system with a filter that should be change every 15,000 miles. I'm on 105,000 and nobody ever mentioned it.

Let's see, air can't move through the filter, the resistance block overheats and ta-dah - you're out another resistance block.

I pulled the cabin air filter and it blew like a hurricane! Unreal how much crap had collected over the years.

The question remains do we REALLY need the air filter IN the car or can we live without it??

Check it out on Page 13:

http://www.boschautoparts.com/NR/rdonlyres/2F...

Tom

Thanks!
Tom
John wrote:
Regarding the blower speeds, if the blower works on high, but not the slower speeds, it is the resistor block. As others have pointed out, high blower speed feeds the blower motor with the full 12V (vs a reduced voltage via a resistor or series of resistors). I found new resistor blocks on the web for $11.19 (~$15 dealer part).
Bobby Arkansas

Springdale, AR

#60 Mar 9, 2007
I have a 2000 sebring conv. same problem with blower replaced resistor 3 times. Plus having problem with fly wheel (flex plate) cracking, Chrysler has replaced it 4 times & last time telling me that trans. housing had defect so they replaced transmision. Well It has gone 19000 miles & it is nocking again so I asume it is cracked again. If anybody is having this same problem would you please e-mail me. Chrysler is telling me this is not a problem, it is a fluk....[email protected]

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