blower motor fuse/resistor

Portland, OR

#186 Jun 29, 2010
Tony wrote:
I start my car and turn on the air and sometimes it works fine in all speeds but some time I start the car and it will not come on in any speed or even with the heat on. checked the swith and it has power and is woking fine. then it works fine in till I turn it off again. I change the relay and did not help. I try it in the drive way. It worked shut to car off did not work. tryed again did not work. after six time worked fine in all speeds and with all funtions. I am now lost the fan is good the controls work and the relay I took from the head light. Now I have to find a bezel becuse I broke it when I pulled it off.
Have someone check the electrical connector to the resistor block with a multimeter, with the fan fuse pulled. Check continuity between the black wire and other wires of the connector. While doing so, shake the wires. If the reading change, then the problem is in the wiring harness side of the connector, at the black wire. If bad, cut the connector off and put insulated female "spade" type terminals on the wires and reconnect to the resistor. I put a dab of RTV Silicon on each terminal to help keep it in place.

Portland, OR

#187 Jun 30, 2010
In elaborating my response to Tony(see my previous posting), my wife's car went through the same problems and fixes. After we got married, I started seeing the blower do the same thing again, quitting intermittently. So first I replaced the blower motor last year. Then, it quit again, and I did the boot thing. When it started, my suspicions led me to think of a wiring problem, not the fan motor, or resistor. I went ahead and bought another resistor for just in case. The old resistor checked good as compared to the new. In trying to remove the electrical connector I found that I couldn't. It looked like someone put a dab of epoxy on it. So I started tearing the resistor side of the connector apart. I found that the connector had overheated enough to fuse both sides of the connector together. The area that overheated was where the fan power wire came into the connector's contacts.

Since I couldn't find a replacement connector, I cut the old one off and used insulated Female "spade" terminals to hook up the wires to the resistor. I then put a dab of RTV Silicon to help keep the terminals in place.

Also I found that the hole where the resistor mounts into is way too small. So I used a dremel tool to enlarge the hole so the resistor would slide in easily.

Folks, an intermittent wiring problem is a difficult and time consuming fix. Either bringing your car while broke, or finding a good electrical mechanic are the too best ways of fixing this problem. Good Luck!

Crystal Lake, IL

#188 Aug 7, 2010
My 2007 t/c van blower only works on the first 3 setting and high DOES NOT work. Any sugestions

United States

#189 Aug 18, 2010
2006 T&C blower motor works on all speeds EXCEPT HIGH. Where would the problem be?
Crystal Delainey

Calgary, Canada

#190 Sep 14, 2010
I have a 2001 Chrysler Sebring my blower completly quit working. One day it was working fine the next day it stopped. I have nothing at all on any level I was trying to decide if it was the resistor or the blower motor any help would be appreciated.


#191 Oct 5, 2010
The fan motor control switch on my 2007 Mazda 6, only works on HIGH. Does not work on the 1-2-3 speeds. I feel that this problem is due to the RESISTOR block, which creates the lower speeds top function. I want to check the RESISTOR BLOCK out, but I don't know where it's located. Does anyone know ? I'm sure I can repair it or replace it if only I kmew where it is. Could it be behind the glove box housing ? Does the housing come out easily ? BERNIE

Salt Lake City, UT

#192 Dec 4, 2010
Hey Tom? Do you remember if that banging noise in your sebring turned out to be the anti roll bar? I have a friend with the same problem and the Stealership in my opinion, is just racking up parts to replace just to run up the bill.

Vandalia, OH

#193 Dec 9, 2010
just replaced the battery in the remote starter on the key chain and now the blower motor doesnt work, is that just dumb luck or another problem WOW >

Huntingdon Valley, PA

#194 Dec 27, 2010
Replace the big transiter on heat sink inside the fan speed control module with a STB85nf55.

Hartford, WI

#195 Dec 29, 2010
Stefanie wrote:
I am having the same problem with my 2006 Sebring. I only have 53,000 miles on it and the horn has gone out (I replaced it with warranty) only to sound awful again, the wheel bearing went out, and now this blower motor resistor. I am ordering the part for 13.99 plus freight and hopefully I won't need to replace the blower motor fan to get the final fix. I'll never buy a Sebring again!
your anidiot

Hanford, CA

#196 May 7, 2011
I have a 2004 Chrysler town and country. I am having problems with my a/c. It won`t blow at all. If the setting is on a/c or heat, i can feel the cold air or heat coming in through the vents when i'm driving fast, but as soon as I slow down or stop, it stops. I bought a blower resistor twice and it worked, but then it stopped. I don't know what to do!

Hanford, CA

#197 May 7, 2011
It's a 2004 Town and Country minivan.

Sugar Land, TX

#198 Oct 19, 2011
I have a Sebring 2002 LXi model. The A/C is working fine when the ambient temperature is not high. When the heat outside goes very high (Texas heat) or just over 85 degrees, the A/C blows hot air. Early morning and evenings it is pleasant to drive. A/C works at that time. But around 12:00 to 6 PM it is difficult to sit inside the car. I took the car to a local shop and they replace the A/C compressor but the problem still the same. Some friend says that is something about the blower motor resistor and really I donít want spent more money in experiments. Somebody can suggest me the areas where I need to look, thanks for your help.

Corona, CA

#199 Oct 21, 2011
Douglas wrote:
I've honestly had next to no problems with my 2001 Convertible. The blower motor resistor has just gone again (third) and only works only on the highest fan speed, but other than routine care for the car, I've had 107,000 problem-free miles.
I'm going to fix the resistor myself this time. I was charged the first time for repair by dealer, but demanded they fix for free second time and they did.
Where can I find the blower motor resistor?

Corona, CA

#200 Oct 21, 2011
Please tell me where is the blower motor resistor located/ i have this issue for last couple of years and never got around to fix it. I just use the highest fan blower setting. Thanks

Zephyr, Canada

#201 Nov 19, 2011
Ken wrote:
I have a 2001 Town and Coutry and have the same issue. I have replaced the Blower motor REsistor twice. the first time the fix lasted 6 months. The second time it lasted for 1 week. I guess I am going to have to replace the blower motor as well. For those who don;t know the blower motor resistor is behind the glove box and very easy to get to. Remove the glove box and there are just two screws to take it out and replace it. Sounds like chrysler has a systemic problem with this part.
Hey Ken my heat in van. It had to be on full blast fot it to work... now it does not blow any heat at all what can i do and how can it be fix? Thank You .... Tammy
Old Mech

Columbia, TN

#202 Jan 8, 2012
I have a 2005 Chrysler Sebring that the blower motor will only work with speed setting 4. All slower speeds the motor does not run. The fix for this is to replace the resister pack, but the problem is only the thermal cutoff mounted on top of the resister. Other postings have said that they found this thermal cutoff (which opens the circuit if overload causes too much heat buildup)at radio shack. In order to get the right part from radio shack we need to know the temperature rating for this thermal cutoff.
Does any one have this information? It would help a lot.

Bellevue, NE

#203 Apr 16, 2012
I have a 99 sebring convertible replaced blower motor and resistor and it still dose not work.
Any suggestions?
James English

Lynn Haven, FL

#204 Apr 17, 2012
I have a sebring 2003. I have been trying to fix my blower in the car far the last couple of days. I finally tracked it to the resister. However, since then I have had a wierd smell in my car and then today noticed smoke coming up from the floor. It was coming out of the area the blower motor and resister sit. Besides this being the last Chrysler vehical I will ever own. does any no if this is a blower pulling to many amp problem or a resister problem. I just put in a bran new resister. I had to basically cut the old resister out to replace it. Need help please
James English

Lynn Haven, FL

#205 Apr 17, 2012
Ryan wrote:
I have a 2002 chrysler sebring convertible with the same problem and after paying $45.00 at the dealership for a new blower motor resistor it seemed to fix the problem but only for 2 days and then the new resistor went out which the dealership told me that they have had this problem for a while and they have now changed over to using aftermarket resistors that are suppose to be better but of course the aftermarket resistor failed just as fast as the original and so I have given up on even trying to fix it because there is nothing that can be done to repair the problem, the resistors will just keep blowing one right after another. Anyone who would like some information about chrysler and their horrible problems with their sebring convertibles email me at [email protected] and I will gladly share with you the transmission problems, engine problems, diagnostic code problems, heater and ac problems, steering problems, covertible top problems, and other problems I have gathered information on because my car is such a piece of shit. And one other thing, the reason why Chrysler never put out a recall on the blower resistors is because they have it listed as a TSB (technical service bulliten) which gives them the legal right to not issue a recall so they can earn more money from people when they have to bring their vehicle in to have diagnostics checked, a resistor replaced, and then they can cash out on $349.00 for the diagnostics + part + labor when in reality the part only costs $45.00 and can be replaced at home on your own by removing only 2 screws and unplugging the wire connection then plugging in the new one and screwing it back into place. Ryan.
Ryan this is why i will resolve to steering people away from Chryslers as long as I live. I am having the same problem. I bought a lifetime warrenty the the resister I just bought. Today my car started to smoke with the blower on. at least I thought just with the blower on not sure yet. Still smell plastic burning when it is off. I don't know if the blower is bad or if the it is just the system that it is working on. If it is the system then i will just remove it from that and put it on its own and do what appearently the chrysler mechanics could not do and that is make a working blower system for their car.

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