Ask the Auto Doctor

[Kerri]

There was no engine noise, knock or tick and I had checked fluid levels and all was okay before I drove it. Oil level was not low -or high- and had good color, not burnt at all

[Wenis]

The oil pressure switch is cheap, tough to get at but not that expensive. would the truck restart and run or didn't you try it?

Some of these vehicles run off the oil pressure switch once it's started, Fuel pressure (pump) is initiated by the computer, when the key is turned on pump runs for 2 seconds, then once it starts the oil pressure is what keeps the fuel pump running, thus if the switch goes bad it'll start then die like yours.

I'm assuming you have no major oil leaks and that the oil is full, right?

[Kerri]

Oil level was/is good and I saw no signs of any leaks and I had crawled under it. The blazer restated immediately after stalling - all 3 times. After getting home and setting for awhile I drove it again for a short distance and had no problems with it. It was only after driving on the xway then going into town traffic that it did it before.

[Kerri]

By the way, THANK YOU!! Appreciate a forum like this especially in today's economic conditions.

[Wenis]

No problem Kerri, I enjoy it also.

It sounds to me like it isn't an oil pressure problem after all, when the engine dies the oil pressure will drop to 0, I see often that by the time people realize the engine died it's then they look down and notice all the lights are on and gauges are 0, as you may have done in this case.

Now that leads us in a totally different direction. There's a whole lot of variables here, If you think back, did the engine die on deceleration? Were you in stop and go traffic or at what speed were you driving when it died?

One other thing I tell my customers is "answer ONLY the questions that you're absolutely sure of the answer" other answers are very misleading and can cost you a lot of money.

I know when this happens it seems like a very big deal and in some cases it is, but when any of you are explaining to your mechanic what has happened leave all the emotions out of the conversation, they only mislead us into thinking in the wrong direction.

[Kerri]

The first time it died I was going about 20 mph and "coasting" to a stop light.

The second time (not even 5 min later) I was traveling about 50 mph at an even pace,(though I was going up a small grade to an intersection so I very well may have backed off the throttle a bit...but it would be so much of a habit I can't say for sure)

The third time, again not even 5 minutes later, I had pulled up to the driveway and was preparing to back into the drive so again I was decelerating.

There were no dash light indicators on any of those incidents, just the loss of power and the oil gauge light bottoming out, all other gauges and eletrical..radio, AC etc. continued to function normally.

All 3 times, I pulled to the side and shut the key off, counted to 10 and restarted the engine, which immediately re-engaged. I really wanted to get it home and not risk a tow bill!!

After reading some of the other posts here I will mention at that point in time I was a 1/4 tank of fuel, but had no trouble with the fuel gauge going wacky. But none of the braking or coasting were "hard" to significantly slosh the fuel.

Temp here was about 82 degrees and as I said I was on the expressway for about a hour and a half prior to these issues, but there was no indication of the engine overheating, it was in the normal range and there was plenty of coolant in the system and the resevor.

Just before these issues I had stopped for a quick errand and had shut the engine off. I did drive it later that evening very locally but could not duplicate the problem.

I checked to see if there had been a change in any of the fluid levels but all were the same as when I checked them before I started driving it.

[Wenis]

Ah, I have an idea, it sounds like the EGR valve was sticking open on decel, pretty common on these trucks.

The valve is on the front of the engine and comes off pretty easy, the vale usually gets held open by a small piece of carbon, sometimes it blows through by its self and other times you can pick it out, the worst case would be to have to replace it, kind-a spendy.

The valves go bad too, the valve has three solenoids, if one goes bad and hangs open the engine runs so lean on decel or sometimes idle that it will die.

Now with that guess out of the way you must understand that there's other things that can cause the engine to die, if the engine runs smooth and don't miss then it's what we call an intermittent problem and could be caused by many other things, so don't get your hopes up too high, let me know if thats the problem....

Good Luck

[arthur M]

so i own a 94 toyota Camry V6. One day out of the blue. I noticed that the electricity in the car was shot. Completely shot, everything was off and thats pretty much it. Except that its not the battery. ANy ideas??

[arthur M]

The battery is new and should be cranking out juice.
HELP PLEASE?

[jdog780]

i own a 1996 blazer and have had some small recent issues, the first and most important is the engine with out cause started shuttering and shaking badly, and the "cel" started blinking, and my wife said the brakes were really hard to push, she pumped the brakes three times and on the third push the pedal broke free. Thoughs were her exact words. I looked at every thing I could see and noted nothing really out of place, or"wrong". I took it to the mechanic and they told me and I quote, the number 4 cylinder is completely dead 0 compression and it seems something has gone through the motor. The only fix is a motor replacement. my family just add the joy of a baby so that is definitely not in the cards for me..... I continued driving it between home and work like 5 miles between the two, and four days after everything just stopped. The shaking , shuttering, the check engine light stopped blinking, power was restored. i Have been driving it now for about a month and a half with no issues related to this.... The other issue is about tow or three months after i bought it the fuel pump crapped out, so i replaced it, after the new one was installed the "cel" came on bought a code reader and the code that is stored is p0440 evap system and i cant figure out how to fix it for good. and finally does anyone know where i can find a sensor map for the braking system i have some abs codes i know what the problem is just not where the specific sensors are actually located.
"cel" = check engine light

[Wenis]

Arthur M, sounds like you have battery connection problems or issues at the main fuse block under the hood, good place to start anyway. Check for corrosion or loose connections.

__________

Jdog780, this truck has a big problem with egr valves sticking open, when it does it causes the engine to die or idle so low that the amount of vacuum it's putting out isn't enough to operate the brakes vacuum assist, thus the hard pedal.

There's many things that will cause this but it's a start, the valve in fact will stick open one day and cause the problem and not the next, kind of a tricky diagnoses.

Oh and one other thing, if that mechanic was that far off I'd start looking for another shop.

[ROD]

I HAVE CHEVY BLAZER 1995 AND PURCHASED A REGULATOR, WHAT TYPE OF PART DO I NEED TO INSTALL IT?

[ROD]

I have a 1995 chevy blazer and needed a regulator, do I need anything else that comes with it, and what type of tool is needed to assemble it?

[dodge]

98 Dodge is fine until you reach about 60mph and then it gets sluggish. I have changed the fuel pump/filter but still having the same problem. Air filter is fine. Any other ideas?

[Wenis]

Hey Dodge, I'd drop the exhaust down to eliminate the catalytic converter, it's probably plugged up, I see a lot of those trucks with he same problem your having.

Drop the front y-pipe down a little to let exhaust escape there, by letting it leak out (breathe) you'll probably find that your power returns.

Good Luck

[lucino]

I have a 2000 gmc jimmy with 4.3 engine .Some times it will start an run fine then ill go an try to restart it and it wont start .I dont get any kind of codes or anything .Ill let it sit for a while an try again an it might start .When running its fine .Ive replaced the filter an all that stuff .Anybody hVE ANY IDEAS WHATS UP ASsince i dont get any codes ?

[Jerry of Michigan]

I have a 1977 Toronado, and I would like to know the proper way to install cork valve cover caskets.

[Wenis]

There is no proper way Jerry,

In a short time they'll leak again, cork may crack or split just by tightening up the valve cover bolts, get the rubber gaskets for this repair, you'll be a lot happier when your done.

Something else that helps is when you have the covers off, blow out the threaded holes for the bolts with a cleaner and silicone the bolts when you go back together, most of times the hot oil will travel up and around the threads of the bolts and cause leaking.

[97 blazer]

my 97 blazer 4x4 service engine light soon light came on then the transmission stopped pulling its been shifting funny and smelling like burnt fluid just put a vehicle speed sensor in it and a 2-3 selenoid whats going on now please help