Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & ...

Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

There are 526 comments on the Edmunds.com story from Dec 4, 2005, titled Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions. In it, Edmunds.com reports that:

I don't know if this will help, but I just did some radiator work on my '01 S-10 with a 4.3. You might have a cracked tank inside the radiator.

Join the discussion below, or Read more at Edmunds.com.

doug

Colchester, IL

#452 Jul 6, 2010
Got a 99 GMC Sonoma, when you hit a dip in the road th etruck takes of for the on coming lane. checked all front end parts, all are OK, tried alignment, nothing is seeming to help, any suggestions!
brian

Fredericksburg, VA

#453 Aug 19, 2010
i have a 2000 chevy s10 with a 2.2liter power loss when it gets in a pull like it has a govner on it!
changed plugs air filter TPS looking for someone that might can help with this problem
mike

Sault Sainte Marie, Canada

#454 Sep 12, 2010
haveing trouble got power to my coil both side but no spark if any ideas can u please let me know my hotmail is [email protected]
brandon barker

West Chester, OH

#456 Sep 15, 2010
oh yeah im tryin to put a 96 sonoma grill on but the head lights are newer on the sonoma can i convert those over to my 95 what do i need again plese email me at above adress !!!!!!!!!!greatly appreciated please help with either problem!!!!!!!!!!
jason

Washington, DC

#457 Sep 19, 2010
My 96 s10 2.2 auto runs fine for about 15 min or until at operating temp then when at stop sign or low rpm check gauge light comes on for low oil pressure reading and truck begins to stall out and cut off but will stay running at half throttle with truck in nuetral and rpms up...icm was changed and oil pump changed. Any ideas was told possible faulty oil pressure switch cutting fuel when reading low pressure but not sure. Please help
James

United States

#458 Oct 3, 2010
Ryan wrote:
I have a 2000 chevy s10 2.2 2wd. I took it to aamco to have my transmission rebuilt and for some odd reason they couldn't get it to start after that. they said it would start for a second and then die. My truck has been in the shop now for three weeks and still nothing. I called the chevy dealership and just asked what it could be and they said it could be a numerous amount of things , any thoughts?


If the security light flashes turn the key on without starting and let it set untill the security light goes off. This normaly takes around 10 mins. After it goes off turn the key off for 5 seconds. Turn it back on let the fuel pump cycle and turn it back off. The next time u try to start it should run if not do this process 2 more times and it will start if the process is done correctly. I have to do this to my 99 s-10 sometimes. Its a resistance problem in your key or its a resistance problem in the ignition switch. It can also be a bad bcm. I hope this will resolve your problem.
karry cleckler

Birmingham, AL

#459 Oct 6, 2010
Tony wrote:
I have a 2000 s10 with 2200 and automatic, runs well but has a terrible rattling and squeaking noise at idle. Sounds like a belt tensioner completely gone but it does not go away with the belt off. Any ideas, it has 196,000 miles but only leaks oil does not burn much at all. The noise may stop for a while then come back at idle.
possibly the timing chain
rebel

Rolesville, NC

#460 Oct 12, 2010
help! 1998 s10 2.2 5speed temp gauge drops gas gauge drops then shoots back to normal back and forth ,speedometer jumping from 0 to 40 non stop changed vss still , the same any ideas
Paul

Fremont, IA

#461 Nov 7, 2010
I have a 98 GMC Sonoma and the 4x4 is not engaging. The push button light flashes and the box on the passanger side will click. I have checked the actuator under the battery and it seams that it is not getting vaccuum. Can I get some help to diagnose this problem?
jeremt

Port Orange, FL

#462 Nov 8, 2010
Todd wrote:
Ran fine. Intake manifold started leaking antifreeze. Pulled into shop. Removed intake manifold. 230K miles so I went ahead and pulled the WP and front cover to look at timing chain. Not too bad but I replaced it anyway. New front cover and new WP also. Replaced upper and lower manufold gaskets with OEM from GM. Put engine a TDC, installed distributor back in with rotor pointing at the "6" stamped in top of distributor. Installed new cap and rotor. buttoned up. NO SPARK.Rechecked distirbutor location. checked to be sure I plugged both the crank and cam sensors back in. Pulled crank sensor to be sure I didn't get any silicone on it when I installed the front cover. Checked and I have power to distributor and coil with key on. WTF! Any Ideas. What have I inadvertently disturbed? Surely its something obvious that I'm just missing. HELP?I discovered that I was a tooth off with my distrubutor and had the P1345 code. I finally got the correct location of BOTH timing marks from the net. Distributor is now positioned correctly.I checked to be sure that I had power to the crank sensor. I pulled the crank sensor and checked for continuity through it. All I can say is that there are no opens in its curcitry.I rechecked all of my connections again. I tried dissconnecting the battery and reconnecting again to possibly reset the ECM, If that even works. I know it does with the ECM on our Volvo Construction equipment so I thought it was worth a try.I brought the crank sensor and the ignition control module to town with me this morning in hopes that the local Auto Parts store can check them.One other thing that I might add. When I pulled #1 spark plug to verify TDC on the compression stroke, the gap was huge. Looks like the original spark plugs still in it at 200K miles. I realize that that can't be good but could the added resistance have played a part in this?Ran by O'Dummy's, I mean O'Reileys, with my Ignition Control Module. Had them check it with their test equipment. Tested bad. Bought new module. Installed new module, nothing. Still no spark.OK, now I feel like I'm just throwing parts at it. It has to be something simple that I'm just missing.
what ended up being the issue. I am having same problem
jimmy

United States

#463 Nov 11, 2010
i hope someone can help me i have a 2000 gmc sonoma put a new engine in ran fine took it to get the exhaust fixed went to get it an want strat i smell fuelwhen i try to strat any ideals before i took it to the muffler shop it was blowing black smoke out of the exhaust help
lawnmowermantx

Killeen, TX

#464 Nov 16, 2010
I have a 1988 GMC S15, 5 speed, 2.5 liter engine. I
recently realized the early morning hours, I'd start the engine to warm up and then it started to
WANT to die. The engine would high rev and "SHUT
DOWN" fast.

I'd start again and again with similar results as
it also has funny burp, gurgle, pop, pop, shutting
down noise. The last time I start it, it shakes
violently and shook my coffee and water jugs
badly. Could it be the Engine Control Module,
Timing Chain / Gears out of Whack, Motor Engine
need replacing (it's at 315k) and clutch hydraulic
system has intermittent issue?

None of the shade tree mechanics I took it too
could solve the problem? I live in Texas.:P Has
anyone heard of this problem, where the truck
tries to turn over but there is no start with a bad
shaking? "

Since: Apr 08

El Paso, TX

#465 Nov 16, 2010
To Whom It May Concern,

I posted earlier about this problem. I have a 1988
GMC S15, 5 speed. 2.5 Liter, 4 cylinder engine. I
noticed earlier this year (back in april and may)
the problem was when I get in early in the morning,
to warm up my truck it ran smooth as silk, then the
engine would rev up, the shift light would go on,
and try to 'shut itself down' with no warning! I
would start again, it would run rough, and nasty
sounding. I'd stomp the gas and fight to keep the
engine going, and then it would die. I'd restart it
again, and it would "POP" "GURRGLE" and "BURP-FART"
and shake violently trying to start, sloshing my
coffee and drinking water around.

I was 'told' by some 'experts' the hydraulic clutch
may be going out, the timing is off, and the guy
who worked on it last told me the Engine Control
Module (The computer core) is gone out. What place
would this E.C.M. be at? The Dash where the main
instrument cluster is at, the kick panel, or the
glove box area? At least that's where the Haynes
Repair manual says it 'should' be. How do I get to
disconnect the speedometer cable if the E.C.M. is
behind the Instrument Cluster?

Oh, how can I get a 'new old style' Instrument
Cluster for the same truck? I think the leads are
worn, and where can I get replacement instrument
clusters for my truck?(It HAS NO automatic
transmission) 1988 GMC S15 5 SPEED, w/AC 2.5 liter
engine, need possible instrument cluster, and
radio with tape cassette deck?:)

MrBBWLuvrTX (Yes I do love big women!)
fasyn8ed

Hudson, NH

#466 Nov 17, 2010
I have read what you said on how to fix but link didnt go to diagram. i am installing a remote starter and light goes on after i get into vehicle and turn key on and press brake for ke to take over ignition. can you resend link or better yet cut and paste diagram for me thank you eDDIE
brejamin wrote:
I found a website that illustrates how to bypass the passlock on passlock 2 systems which throught research if you got a 98 or newer s10 you have passlock 2. If you have an older version this link shows how to determine which type you have and how to bypass it.
http://members.tripod.com/~alarmtek/VATS.html
I happen to be an electical tech and can help you understand whats going on.
Basically on the passlock2 system your key sends a signal to the transponder. The transponder will recognize if it's the correct key, then will put a calibrated resistor into the circuit to signal to the bcm to allow the car to start. Once you kill the vehicle the resistor is taken out of the circuit again.
Basically what your doing in this by-pass is inserting a fixed or varible resistor in there thus by-passing the transponder.
To do so you need a good ohm meter to read the exact ohms in the circuit. Then a relay and a resistor matching the one you will read in circuit.
If you follow the directions you will be fine. Except if you are not putting in a remote start you don't need two relays you only need one.
Connect the left relay up as it shows. pin 30 is the common post. 87 is the energized post. 87a is the post when the truck is off. 85 will be you ignition wire positive. 86 is ignition negative. A ground could be used, I imagine. Don't connect inline just tap off of the power.
It really is easy if anyone wants to try it and have problems. Just post your problem I'll try and help you. I'm going to do this by-pass this weekend so I will let yall know how it works.
luckeecars

Roosevelt, UT

#467 Nov 21, 2010
2.2 dieing is caused by the ignition control module.is under the coilpack remove the coil pack and replace the module.end of proublem.
luckeecars

Roosevelt, UT

#468 Nov 21, 2010
2.2 chevy keeps dieing because the ignition module fails.replace the module located under the coil pack on the right side of the engine.the module unplugs fron the cooil pack plug in new one.this will work.
luckeecars

Roosevelt, UT

#469 Nov 21, 2010
mike wrote:
haveing trouble got power to my coil both side but no spark if any ideas can u please let me know my hotmail is [email protected]
replacethe ignition control module if it has no codes this is the problem
Jon

Van Buren, AR

#470 Nov 27, 2010
bush wrote:
<quoted text>I got a idea scrap the piece of shit & buy a toyota,that goes for the rest of you.
This Truck I have is 1999 Sonoma Basically a S10 I got it to replace the worst truck I ever had A Toyota 2005 model
crisco

Burlington, IA

#471 Jan 23, 2011
I have a 1999 GMC Sonoma 5 spd 4 cylinder. Recently it has stopped turning on when I first turn the key. It will start after the 3rd or 4th time. any one know what might be wrong.
Milton

Riverside, CA

#472 Mar 9, 2011
Hey Help did you ever found out what was wrong with the 91 s-15? I have the exact problem with my 03 sonoma 4.3. Thanks

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