2003 Chevrolet Silverado - Reduced En...
donald in indiana

Greenwood, IN

#83 Mar 6, 2010
i have a 2003 silverado 2500hd with 6 litre gas motor and 2 or 3 times a week when driving interstate it faults out reduced engine power, does any body know what this could be, pull over, turn off ignition and it will be fine for awhile and it will do it again, thanks to anybody that can help.
William Trevathan

Tacoma, WA

#84 Mar 21, 2010
scott wrote:
2003 chevy silverado- check engine light goes on all the time.. it runs fine, yet I can't get it to pass MO emissions testing requirement(s).... Any ideas or suggestions?
I also have a 2003 Silverado. I replaced the side mount bolts that connect the cables to the battery.(seems as we continually dis-connect the battery to perform maintenance, over time the threads on the bolts lose their holding grip) Now the cables are attached to the battery nice and tight again. This solved my problem.
colby

United States

#85 Mar 25, 2010
jordan wrote:
have same prob reduce engine power can some one help me please 2006 1500 i am stuck and low funds write now dose any one n o what to do
my 2006 chevy had the same prob reduced engine power i took it to the dealership it was the throttle pedal assembly its really just a new gas pedal with a electrical plug. truck runs like new now any home mechanic can swap it out because it doesnt have a cable anymore
.
Bigwood

Los Gatos, CA

#86 Apr 12, 2010
I have an 03 surburban with reduced engine power. Replaced throtlebody and harness. Didn't fix it. Towed it to chevy. They found a ground wire with high resistance. G103 replaced wire. Everything ok. The wife traded it in she didn't want to go through with that again
Johnny D

Lakeland, MI

#87 Apr 12, 2010
I have been messing with the Reduced Engine Power problem for about a month now. I have replaced the emission solenoid valve that sits on the top of the intake manifold. No luck. I really do not want to buy a new throttle body as I am sure that they go for about 3 or 400. The pedal sensor may also be the cause according to the other comments. I am going to remove the throttle body and clean it myself. If that does not work I am going to concentrate my efforts on the accelerator pedal.
Mike

Claremont, CA

#88 Apr 23, 2010
There is a GM bulletin on this related to the Throttle Body...http://www.justanswer.c om/questions/24xdl-i-have-a-20 03-yukon-the-other-day-i-went- out-to-start-it-and
Steve

Coal City, IN

#89 May 10, 2010
My 2003 Chevy Silverado HD2500 would shut down (reduced engine power) every day, sometimes multiple times daily. After running diagnostics on it we replaced filters and sensors, which did not help. Finally, we cleaned the throttle body again, and used SHELL STATION PREMIUM GASOLINE. So far so good, it has not shut down in the past few weeks. I hope this helps somebody.
Eric

Kirkland, Canada

#90 May 17, 2010
Had the same problem reduced engine power and the fis was the wires near the throttle body on the left that are cut inside the insulation. That fixed it for just above 100$
Robin

Mims, FL

#91 May 31, 2010
You all are no help whatsoever
jose

United States

#92 Jun 1, 2010
reduced eng pwr wrote:
I have a'04 chevy silv 1500 4wd, and I've been having this problem on and off for a year I replaced the tps three times, the wire harness that connects to it, the gas pedal w/ sensor, and it's all temporary until you're on the freeway and you lose power.....I don't know what to do neither do the so called mechanics, they've tried everything, nothing seems to work, maybe wwe should take our pos trucks back to gm and get our money back before they go bankrupt(p.s. my gauge cluster is all messed up as well,)
make sure the pins are tight at the throttle body. the ground located in the back of the block behind intake manifold. if all is good go to module at the fire wall find thick black wire and run a piggy back to it and reground on a clean piece of metal. gm has had quiet a few cases with this ground to the tac module having to much resistance its easier to piggy back then chase. make sure u soder ur connection so it can be tight. and ps as for the cluster if u have less than 100k gm has a special policy so take back to the dealer and they will warranty it out free of charge. have a good day.
jose

United States

#93 Jun 1, 2010
Robin wrote:
You all are no help whatsoever
tell me your problem i can help u
caubin

United States

#94 Jun 16, 2010
I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado 1500 4.3 i had a remote starter put in and now the engine is acting up I've put my matco diagnostic computer on it and the computer won't read the truck unpluged the remote starter and still don't read wonder if anyone can tell me what to do

Thanks for your help
Shane

Sour Lake, TX

#95 Jun 28, 2010
I have an 03' 1500. My instrument panel is going in and out. sometimes i have nothing that works on my panel and sometimes i have a few things working. I have checked all the fuses and cant figure out what the problem is. Any info would be great.
robert

AOL

#96 Jul 6, 2010
I have been dealing with the reduced engine power for over three years. I have carried it to several different garages that I have delt with over the years and they have had no better luck than me at fixing it. ( I ran a garage for 22 years in the 60's thru the early eighties) My truck may do it up to eight times withed 100 miles and then again it may do it every other day for a week . all of a sudden it may go weeks without doing it. From what I have read , it could be a thousand different things. I believe what GM should do is take this option out of the software and let you reprogram the computor so as this Reduced Engine Power option and its control of the valve body would no longer be there. It would be cheaper to fix the conseqencies than try to fix the cause. Just my Quarters worth.
Jesse

Mexico, Mexico

#97 Jul 26, 2010
Hi Jose, I´ve got two ´04 silverados 3500HD with 8.1L and they both have the reduced engine power problem.On one it comes on after bout a mile and it won´t go over 2300 rpms.I´ll pull over and wait a minute before cranking again and its fine for another mile. the second one just started today but that one only idles when the light comes on. they both run on propane if that matters and the the first one has a brand new throtle body,re'built eng, rebuilt ecm, new plugs, wires and most all sensors are new. I´d appreciate any help with this.
Shawn_P

Broken Arrow, OK

#98 Jul 29, 2010
Thanks everyone for their input. It saved me a lot of money.
Reduced Engine Power, 2003 Silverado Z71 1500.
Trouble cleared after disconnecting and reconnecting the plug closest to the driver's fender, at the electronic module mounted to the firewall right below the cowl. The other plug goes to the foot feed.
After looking over the web, I would encourage you to examine your wiring very thoroughly. DO NOT replace any components without a written guarantee they will refund ALL your money when the problem reoccurs.
Use an ohm meter, 24 gauge wire and at least one lead with a "telco clip", with a "bed of nails". The bed of nails penetrates the insulation and the small wire on the other lead of the meter can be poked in the connectors to check for continuity.
Most of the reports I found indicated broken conductors or bad crimps on the pins/sockets. The broken conductors were within 2 inches of the connectors, so put the bed of nails as far from the connector as you can get with out completely trashing the wire loom. Wiggle, pull, and push each wire and verify your meter stays below 10 ohms so, zero is fine. I'd say anything above 10 ohms you should double check.
First, squeeze the "bed of nails" with a little more pressure. If they are new, they will connect fairly easily.
I was sure my trouble was a connection/broken wire. I parked the truck, never having the problem. Then noticed the message when I turned the key on, w/o trying to start the truck. I needed to roll the truck back a bit, I had two young raccoons in the engine compartment and could not open the hood because of a shelf.
I thought the message was because the key was on the engine was not running, but after starting it I figured out it was not. I studied this forum and spent about 2 hours checking connections.
I intend to figure out which wire causes this condition. I think it would be a great theft deterrent/ vehicle saver. Put the truck in 4 low and reduced engine power while parked at a hotel. Thieves probably will abandon it quickly.
Josh

Pratt, KS

#99 Jul 29, 2010
Rick wrote:
I have an 03 HD and am having the reduced engine power problem. My mech. said to replace gas pedal throttle pos. sensor, i did and no luck. Next he put his diagnostic comp on it and it said to replace throttle-body TPS (expensive!) No luck. I was letting it warm up to op. temp before leaving, and that seemed to work,for a while. But now it will do it 3 and 4 times a trip. Also sometimes its sluggish and has a little hesitation at 50 to 60 mph. Kind of hard to plow snow w/ this POS!
i have the same problem with my 03 2500HD but ive had the wiring harness replaced, the whole throttle body and fuel pump and filter. STILL NO LUCK
Josh

Pratt, KS

#100 Jul 29, 2010
chris wrote:
I have a 2003 silverado hd and the reduced engine power light came on about a month ago,my mech. scanned it and it was showing that the trottle position sensor was bad. About a week went by and the message came back.this time he replaced the throttle body. A week later the message came back agian,mechanic checked it agian and said it was showing low voltage, alternator is fine but I replaced the battery as the mechanic suggested.
Did fine for a couple days but now the freakin message is back.Anyone have any ideas on this one besides trying a new mechanic?I feel like the 900.00 bucks that I have spent has been a waste
no its not your mechanic because ive done the same thing to my 03 2500HD and it still does the same thing
Kajunwolf

United States

#101 Jul 29, 2010
Shawn_P wrote:
Thanks everyone for their input. It saved me a lot of money.
Reduced Engine Power, 2003 Silverado Z71 1500.
Trouble cleared after disconnecting and reconnecting the plug closest to the driver's fender, at the electronic module mounted to the firewall right below the cowl. The other plug goes to the foot feed.
After looking over the web, I would encourage you to examine your wiring very thoroughly. DO NOT replace any components without a written guarantee they will refund ALL your money when the problem reoccurs.
Use an ohm meter, 24 gauge wire and at least one lead with a "telco clip", with a "bed of nails". The bed of nails penetrates the insulation and the small wire on the other lead of the meter can be poked in the connectors to check for continuity.
Most of the reports I found indicated broken conductors or bad crimps on the pins/sockets. The broken conductors were within 2 inches of the connectors, so put the bed of nails as far from the connector as you can get with out completely trashing the wire loom. Wiggle, pull, and push each wire and verify your meter stays below 10 ohms so, zero is fine. I'd say anything above 10 ohms you should double check.
First, squeeze the "bed of nails" with a little more pressure. If they are new, they will connect fairly easily.
I was sure my trouble was a connection/broken wire. I parked the truck, never having the problem. Then noticed the message when I turned the key on, w/o trying to start the truck. I needed to roll the truck back a bit, I had two young raccoons in the engine compartment and could not open the hood because of a shelf.
I thought the message was because the key was on the engine was not running, but after starting it I figured out it was not. I studied this forum and spent about 2 hours checking connections.
I intend to figure out which wire causes this condition. I think it would be a great theft deterrent/ vehicle saver. Put the truck in 4 low and reduced engine power while parked at a hotel. Thieves probably will abandon it quickly.
Disconnecting the fuel pump relay fuse in the fuse box under the hood is a good way to disable your truck. The location of the fuse is on a diagram on the inside of the lid covering the fuse box
Hollie Randolph

Charlottesville, VA

#102 Jul 30, 2010
my fiancee' and I own a 2003 silverado: we already know our truck has electrical issues because lights in the interior of the truck decide when they want to work: they're out for 2-3 months. The battery guage pegs for no reason (I know there's nothing wrong with the battery it's only a year old!) and the speedometer doesn't work. The a/c only will blow on defrost on settings 3 and 4. Recently we had a problem with rough idling and when the engine light came on we took it to an auto parts store for a free diagnostic. One of the airflow sensors went bad (we have been having problems since 70,000 mi our truck currently has 90k on it) I have read more about problems with this truck than I care to.......when we get rid of it we plan to NOT get another chevy of ANY kind!

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