1997 S10 starter removal
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Joshinkc

Pilot Grove, MO

#1 Mar 29, 2007
for a week or so my truck wouldnt start, so i asked someone about it and they said to hit the starter with a hammer...i did now it starts again but they also said of it worked that ment i needed a new starter. so today i got under my truck and looked at it. i have a chilton manual that said to look for 2 bolts going through the starter into the engine block. i found them. it also says that there are some shims that will need to be put back in place. i cant see them and i know i wont be able to until i drop it down from the block. i dont have to remove the exhaust pipe, its not in the way. what im wondering about is the wires that are connected to the celinoid (or however you spell it)....i can see them but i can get to them to remove them from the starter. will i be able to remove them when i drop the starter down from the block? i havent ever done this before and i need to know if anyone recommends that i take it in to a professional to get the starter installed or if this is easy enough that i could do it myself and save myself money. also if anyone knows where i can get a better schematic of the starter removal than the one in my chilton manual please let me know. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks.
Chris

Lower Sackville, Canada

#2 Mar 29, 2007
Try your local library for a good / better manual. Check the reference section and make copies if you need to. You can get at those wires by removing the front wheel and reach through the flap in the inner fender. I don't think there is much slack in the cables, which can be pretty rusted on. If you have a gear wrench that helps, I would try to get the wires off first, so If you drop the starter it doesn't pull on the smaller wires. You may have to push the starter up on it's end to get it out easier. clean the block where the new starter bolts on with a bit of sandpaper so It gets a good ground to the block. Grounds are almost important as power. Check your ground cable to the block too.

As far as paying someone else, It's not too bad of a job,(easier than exhaust) but it's still under the truck, so it's not too much fun. and it will probably take an afternoon, it always takes longer than you think. Try to get the truck jacked up good and safe so you have more room. Some trucks don't have shims, my '94 didn't
toni wheaton

Port Richey, FL

#3 Sep 17, 2007
My husband has had repairs on his chevy truck s10, the last bill was over $1000.00 the very next day the truck didn't start, it broke down.

since we already had invested so much money on repairs that the dealer said would take care of everthing....unfortuneately, we took it back to them ..thinking there would be no additional charges.....wrong they charged us another $250.00, which we had deducted from my husbands paycheck.

I do not know what to do, we have invested into a company mechanic shop that is just playing games with us to keep us coming back.

Our truck will not start again, it's only been a week that they were suppose to fix it.

Can you please recomend what we should do? We just want someone who is honest....we don't have a lot of money and this is killing us.

I am pretty sure it is the starter...is ther any way would can fix it.Iknow that is a dream that won't come true,but, we are living from pay check to pay check and barely making it.

Can you help us? It would be so much appreciated if I just knew for sure the dealer would truly fix the proplem.

Thanks for your time,
Toni Wheaton
Davey Findley

Rome, GA

#4 Oct 17, 2007
For about a month now my truck has been broke and people looked at it and said that if my truck did not run i needed to either get it fixed of get another truck. What do u think?
pat

Ashby, MA

#5 Oct 17, 2007
hey davey. I have the solution to the problem. maybe if you had any friends, they could help you to, so I'm not gonna help you at all. and i bet u like Rupaul
cooter

Glenside, PA

#6 Nov 15, 2007
Davey Findley wrote:
For about a month now my truck has been broke and people looked at it and said that if my truck did not run i needed to either get it fixed of get another truck. What do u think?
what you sould do is tell them if they are not willing to help u fix it or buy u a new truck to "go pound sand"
Larry Brown

Wisconsin Rapids, WI

#7 Feb 23, 2008
You can get to the wires by removing the drivers side tire and rubber fender well panel.
robert

Crawford, TX

#8 Mar 15, 2008
how do I remove a starter from a 94 s10 blazer
4.3 vortex engine
milton

Copenhagen, NY

#9 Apr 2, 2008
definitely removing a starter on a s10 right now. The way to go is to definitely remove the wires from the silenoid before removing the two bolts from the starter it self. When i removed the wires and the starter bolts yes the shim slid out from between the starter and the block. simple enough because the bolts hold it firmly in place. my biggest problem came after this. The starter lacks the moving room to easily drop down, I am having to drop another arm and what i call the bell housing, It has six or so bolts into it, I have also heard it called a heat shield, but i think it is the actual timing cover, not really sure on this. Also don't let the starter hang freely as when you do get it free it may come crashing down on your face so either leave the two bolts in till the last minute or support it with wire or something sturdy. And yes the new starter just bolts directly back in, try to clean the block where it actually touches as this will give u a better ground. good luck
Steve

Harleysville, PA

#10 Sep 28, 2008
I have a 1999 Blazer ZR2 the start went bad and I replaced it with a NAPA after market. The instructions say to measure the distance between the flywheel and the starter gear. The starter head slip into the bell housing and there is no access panels to get measurements. Did any one come across this problem and how do you properly measurements?
Steve

Harleysville, PA

#11 Sep 28, 2008
Another question related to the thread posted earlier. Does anyone know where I can find an eletronic service manual to download for the 1999 ZR2? Thanks

“Is That Your Real Name?”

Since: Feb 08

St. Joseph, MO

#12 Feb 1, 2009
The issue of shims is confusing. There are 3 or 4 different thicknesses in a little pack. Which one do you use? My starter did not have a shim on it and it ran great for over 2 years. Then when the starter wore out and was replaced, it has been nothing but problems. Sometimes starting and sometimes not. Also, some times the wheel in the starter just spins and does not make contact with the flywheel. It is a high pitched grinding noise. Someone said that I needed a to use a shim with the new rebuilt starter that I bought from the aftermarket auto parts store. There was no bolts or shims with the replacement starter. What shim do I need and will this solve my problem? Also, are the 2 main starter bolts on a '98 S-10 pick-up supposed to be different lengths?
josh

Honolulu, HI

#13 Feb 17, 2009
Joshinkc wrote:
for a week or so my truck wouldnt start, so i asked someone about it and they said to hit the starter with a hammer...i did now it starts again but they also said of it worked that ment i needed a new starter. so today i got under my truck and looked at it. i have a chilton manual that said to look for 2 bolts going through the starter into the engine block. i found them. it also says that there are some shims that will need to be put back in place. i cant see them and i know i wont be able to until i drop it down from the block. i dont have to remove the exhaust pipe, its not in the way. what im wondering about is the wires that are connected to the celinoid (or however you spell it)....i can see them but i can get to them to remove them from the starter. will i be able to remove them when i drop the starter down from the block? i havent ever done this before and i need to know if anyone recommends that i take it in to a professional to get the starter installed or if this is easy enough that i could do it myself and save myself money. also if anyone knows where i can get a better schematic of the starter removal than the one in my chilton manual please let me know. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks.
you can take out the starter first and then take out the wires if youd like.
just make sure that while you taking out the starter, that you have it pretty supported. its about 30-40 pounds. there should be two wires in the back. one that comes from your battery and one that comes from your ignition. oh and you have to make sure that your bell housing covering your transmission is also removed. before you can do anything
Freddie

Phenix City, AL

#14 Apr 13, 2010
First and always remove the hot cable from your battery before working with the starter. If not, and you arc it or ground it out.. be ready to shell out some dollars.

Best way i have found, especially wityh my 98S10 is to get the front end up on ramps to work. I also raise the rear up on floor jacks so i can get under and work.

i have found that by using a 5/16 wrench and 1/2 in socket work best, then by laying under the starter with a trouble light I push my right hand thru the rubber covered access behind the drivers side front wheel and my left at the starter, i find this works well at removing the bolts/nuts. Note of caution here... don't let the starter hang by the wires it will bend the large cable fitting and will break off the smaller wire. install is just reverse
charlie

Brandon, FL

#15 Jan 15, 2011
if plastic piece between two starter wires is broken off will it shorten life of starter
brandon

Greenville, SC

#16 Feb 14, 2011
i had to remove it on a 97 2 door wasnt that easy getin out but putin it back on was a breeze only prob was getting the bolts tight on the wires
Tina

Shinnston, WV

#17 Nov 19, 2012
I am trying to remove the starter from a 97 chevy s10.(I don't know if it matters but it is a 2 wheel drive, 4 cylinder.) I have disconnected everything that needs to be disconnected but there is not enough room for the starter to drop down out from the block. It is hitting against the back of the block and I am completely stumped!!!!!! I cannot find anything on the internet or any video to help me. All of the advice I have read on here hasn't helped me either. There just isn't enough room for the starter to drop down! Can anyone please help??
allan

Waterloo, Canada

#18 Mar 13, 2014
I have the two bolts off the starter but the bolts on the front of the starte will not move past the bracket. Do I have to move the front braket.
tylerray

United States

#19 Aug 30, 2015
Ok I have a 97 Chevy s10 zr2 (4x4) 121,000 on the motor,, so its still in good shape,and for some odd reason I cannot get the starter to come flush with the block when I.have both bolts in the starter and have it tightened down I have about a 3/16 gap ..which causes the truck..not to.start ....now when I put 1 starter bolt in and tighten it down I can.make it flush with the block and it starts fine ...any suggestions or ideas
Ken

El Sobrante, CA

#20 Jun 5, 2016
I have a 194 chevy blazer 4.3 v6 4x4. I cant get the starter to go in flush with engine which causes car not to start.why is this

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