dsmith

Toomsuba, MS

#41 Feb 4, 2007
we have the same exact problems with our 2001 chevy impala. the temperature gauge stays on zero and the fans won't quit running when you kill it. the fans also make a squealing or screeching noise for a while when you start the car. there seems to be a universal problem with the '01 impalas. chevrolet needs to step up to the plate and help out. at least tell us what the real problem is (if they even know themselves). at least we're not the only ones. it seems that this all starts around the same time. our car has about 80,000 miles on it too. definitely not just a fluke.
JetRanger

Milwaukee, WI

#42 Feb 4, 2007
YOU ALL NEED TO MAKE SURE YOUR ENGINE COOLING FAN IS COMING ON, THIS CAN BE ACHIEVED BY PHYSICALLY LOOKING UNDER THE HOOD WITH THE CAR RUNNING AND AT WARM OPERATING TEMPERATURE SEE IF THE ENGINE COOLING FAN IS TURNING, NEXT TO THE RADIATOR, ITS MOST LIKELY AN ELECTRICAL FAN, SOMETIMES THEY GO BAD AND CAUSE THE ENGINE TO RUN HOTT, SENDING OTHER ERROR CODES TO OTHER PARTS OF THE CAR, AND CAUSING OTHER PARTS OF THE CAR TO MALFUNCTION AND POSSIBLY SHUT DOWN, SO YOU DON'T RUIN AN ENGINE !!!

Since: Jan 07

United States

#43 Feb 4, 2007
yeah looking pretty bad at this point. i din't get 3 days, problem started again. Mike let me know if your investment works, i think i can spare 8 bucks.
suwannee79

Riverdale, GA

#44 Feb 5, 2007
I'll add my complaint to this quickly expanding list.

I have a 2001 Impala with 107,000 miles and I also have the temp. gauge stuck at zero, the high pitched screeching noise, the running fan, and the check engine light. I was having the problem on and off for 2 weeks when it suddenly stopped last week. I thought maybe the problem had resolved itself but two nights ago I started the car and there was that darn whine and the stuck gauge.

I'll probably try the instructions someone listed a few posts back and see if that works, but if it doesn't it sounds like replacing the part doesn't always work either.....guess I'll just cross my fingers and hope for the best.

I know this is a dumb question but does Chevy know about this problem?
Mike

Windsor Locks, CT

#45 Feb 6, 2007
SS 3.8L
Thermostat
about $10 @ advanced auto parts including the rubber gasket thing.
Seems to like it so far.
Wayne

Philadelphia, PA

#46 Feb 7, 2007
I have the same problem. The temperature gauge does not move, and the fan runs on for 2-5 minutes after I shut off the car. I am going to change the thermostat tonight.
Does anyone know if changing the thermostat will resolve the problems.
THANKS:)
Rich

United States

#47 Feb 7, 2007
I have identical problem on my 2001 Impala LS 82, 000 miles. Check engine light, no temp gauge and check engine light. I notice the fan runs with the car off, however if I turn the key halfway as if to start it the fan goes off.(electrical problem ?). My gas gauge stopped working and sometimes the signal lights are intermittent. A mechanic friend of mine mentioned a history of bad body control modules on this vehicle.

Chevy dealer is just going to start replacing parts until it is fixed.......

good luck to us all.
Wayne

Philadelphia, PA

#48 Feb 8, 2007
I have the same problem. The temperature gauge does not move, and the fan runs on for 2-5 minutes after I shut off the car.
UPDATE: I replaced the thermostat on my 2001 Impala and used my OBD II scanner to reset the P0128 code.
The temperature gauge now works and the fan does not run on after shut off. Hope this helps others!
Rich Frisco

United States

#49 Feb 8, 2007
Wayne,
what is an OBD 2 scanner? how hard was it to change the thermostat?. I changed a few before on other vehicles....did you have any difficulties changing it out....how long does it take...

Thanks for the info
Mike

United States

#50 Feb 8, 2007
Finally, the problem has been resolved. As I last reported, I went out and purchased some DexCool coolant/anti-freeze (to top off). Also purchased a Stant thermostat and fel-pro gasket and replaced (total investment, about $8). Replacing the thermostat was breeze. Removed the two bolts (10mm) I think and pry off the thermostat housing. Make sure you remove the gasket too. Took out old thermostat and put new thermostat and gasket in and put back on. Now, after I did this, and started the vehicle, I noticed a small leak from the upper radiator hose at the thermostat housing. This might explain why recently the low coolant light came on. So I replaced the upper radiator hose (and clamps too--but switched to the screw type). The job was much easier when I removed the air filter housing.

Now everthing works perfectly and I don't expect to have the problem any longer....again, just replace the thermostat and gasket (and any possible damaged hoses)...less than $10 investment and DIY. Good Luck!
Cesar08

Brooklyn, NY

#51 Feb 10, 2007
Well,i changed the thermostat twice and the same problem with the temp been going on everytime i get on the highway at below degrees the fans stay on after shutting down and ac dosent work after. Also i have remove the negative cable and i guess it refresh the memory and start to work fine again. Now i got a another problem which is getting on my nerv which is with the Antifreeze it boils in the reserve tank on the right side until is start to overflot the tank.
Can some one please help me with this i would really appreciate its my going to school car and i like the car.
davyslockr

Jamestown, RI

#52 Feb 11, 2007
Does anyone know where the sending unit is located?
CDL

Woodville, TX

#53 Feb 11, 2007
MAN, I DON'T KNOW HOW YOU CAME UP WITH THIS, BUT I TRIED IT AND IT DOES WORK, I AM STILL AMAZED ON HOW IT DID WORK!!!! I HAD TRIED DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY CABLE, AND THE FUSES OUTSIDE, NEVER THE ONES INSIDE OR THE GROUND ON TOP OF THE HEADLIGHT. IT HAS BEEN A WEEK SINCE I HAVE DONE IT AND I HAVENT HAD A PROBLEM, I HOPE THIS HAS SOLVED IT, NOW I CAN TRADE IT IN JAJA. EVERYONE SHOULD TRY THIS FIRST SO THEY WON'T SPEND ANY MONEY ON MECHANICS OR OTHER THINGS.
THANKS ALOT MAN.
AlB22 wrote:
OK, everyone I think you should jump on the bandwagon of (Mike in Indys) suggestion even though I am a Steelers fan, the Colt has a remedy.
1. DISCONNECT YOUR NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE.
2. UNPLUG YOUR PCM FUSES LOCATED UNDER HOOD ON PASSENGER SIDE TOP FUSE BOX INSIDE TOP LEFT TWO BIG FUSES.
3. THIS IS AN EXTRA MEASURE. IF YOU HAVE AN 01 IMPALA PULL THE RED 2 #10 FUSES (LOCATED ON DRIVER SIDE TO THE LEFT OF YOUR LIGHT SWITCH ON SIDE.
4. DISCONNECT GROUND WIRE LOCATED UNDER HOOD ALSO ON DRIVER SIDE JUST ABOVE HEADLIGHT. YOU CAN SAND IT DOWN OR USE A SMALL WIRE BRUSH CLEAN CONNECTIONS AND SCREW/WASHER.
5. WAIT APPROX 10-15 MINUTES
6. RECONNECT EVERYTHING IN REVERSE ORDER STEP 5 TO1(LAST TO FIRST).
7. START CAR AND LEAVE RUNNING FOR A FEW MINUTES ( YOUR GAUGE SHOULD BEGAN TO ADJUST AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT SHOULD NOT BE ON.
8. TURN OFF CAR.(FAN/BLOWER SHOULD NOT BE RUNNING.
GOOD LUCK AND THANKS TO MIKE IN INDY YOU'LL SOON BE RIDING WORRY FREE.
I WILL FOLLOW UP IN A FEW WEEKS.
IT TOOK ME ABOUT 30 MINUTES TOPS AND ZERO DOLLORS OUT OF POCKET.
Jimmy

United States

#54 Feb 11, 2007
I was going to replace my thermostat this weekend, when all of a sudden friday afternoon everything started working fine. It's still working fine as of Sunday night. I know the weather has warmed up some here this weekend (65-75). I've heard this has happened to others when the weather warms up. Has anyone else experienced this?? Would this be consistant with a thermostat??
barwary

Smithboro, NY

#55 Feb 11, 2007
2001 Impala,temp gauge not working. I replaced thermostat and sending unit.No luck
Manuel

Mexico, Mexico

#56 Feb 12, 2007
Exactly the same symptoms. Mike´s procedure works fine at least for the first day. I´ve also changed the thermostat and coolant, I have to say that my engine overheated and damaged due to a faulty thermostat, be careful of sudden overheating.
Jimmy

Bogalusa, LA

#57 Feb 12, 2007
I just changed the thermostat. Temp. gauge is now working, a/c blows ice cold, and fans no longer run when engine turned off. I'm going to be cautiously optomistic, and assume it was a bad thermostat. (Wierd things have happened to this car.) I'll keep a close eye on it, and report back in a few weeks.
Don

United States

#58 Feb 13, 2007
I have a few relevant questions regarding my 2001 Impala with the 3.4,w/52,000 miles.. I had the coolant flushed in September, I then changed the thermostat myself in Oct. everything was fine until this recent cold snap, I started the car one cold day and the "Low Coolant Level" light illuminated, and it has everyday since, only it goes "off" when the car reaches operating temps(everytime),and when the car is warm, say I turn it off when I run in a store and come back out it will stay off,(Warm off/Cold on) it always illuminates when cold.. I used the required 180 degreee thermosat, anyone have an idea why this light comes on and goes off like clockwork when the car warms up? I have added some coolant to the bottle and to the rad to try and make up for letting some out to change the thermostat,thinking that it is leveling out and I see no leaking on engine or ground. Also when I was tightening the bleed screw that is on the front metal rail, it snapped off in my socket, Where can I get a new bleed screw? Do I have to buy the whole metal rail setup that this bleed screw is in? It looks like a bleed screw in a bigger screw, screwed into the rail, can I get the one that has the bleed screw in it out of the rail and replace them wihout replacing the metal rail? And it is bled so I didn't worry about it, but I do want to replace it for the next time I have to bleed air out.. Oh yea, late last summer my A/C stopped blowing cold, I was getting a "click" from the compesser when I pressed the A/C button but warm air, now when I press the A/C button I hear nothing? I have not heard the cooling fans in ages either. The car runs fine and never goes near the 1/2 way point on the guage and the heat works great, I did replace the blower switch relay after #1 and #2 fan setting's didn't work......This car is turning in to a money pit..without A/c.... Thanks Don
Chuck

Lees Summit, MO

#59 Feb 14, 2007
this is the answer a lot of you are looking for. the cooling system is a reverse flow design, cool water from the radiator comes into the right head first. thru the open thermostat and pours on the temp sensor located right below it. the pcm sees a discrepency in the sensor and the temp of the engine and shows "out of range" fault it may or may not light the check engine light. it then puts the sensor at a fixed input and turns the electric fans on high speed. after the ignition is switched off the delay relay continues to run them on low for three minutes. the radiator cap has a weighted valve that is suposed to close when pressure is increased . these vehicles come with Dex-cool installed, it has a problem with air in the system and causes a sluge to form. the cap and coolant level float are in the procimity of the fill neck where air can enter the system . also it is important to keep all air out of the system and the radiator full or the sludge can clog the radiator. the air bleed located on the thermostat housing must be purged when filling the system . the 3.4 engine has faulty intake gaskets that will leak coolant into the intake pleanum and the engine oil gallery. this is a serious problem and should not be allowed to continue . GM will replace faulty intake gaskets one time at no charge. but how do you repair this your self? replace the thermostat if the gauge does not get up to 190 degrees while at hiway speed. leave the negative battery lead disconnected over night to clear the memory and any stored codes. fill with dex cool and get all the air out of the system your owners manual gives specific directions on how to do it properly . good luck
Eric

Foxboro, MA

#60 Feb 15, 2007
My temp gauge stopped working, but im still getting heat. Anyone have any ideas.

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