2001 impala ls temp gauge and ac prob...
chris

Florence, AL

#305 May 17, 2011
i had the same probs including gas hand only works on half tank or above and idling and had my trans rebuilt and they reset the ecm and then run it again and the only thing that popped up was a code on bad egr valve. i had no probs for a couple weeks and then everything went back to not working again. im thinkin that there is a prob in the ecm itself. idk but i love the car but i'm tired of putting money into it. its one thing after another. i was driving it today and it just started running real rough and missing and i thought maybe a bad plug or wire but im leaning more toward bad catalytic converter or my egr valve went out. i have been unemployed for several months and cannot find work and im sick of forking out money on this thing but i still owe 5500 on it and have no choice cause i could never sell it for that
rick montreal canada

Montréal, Canada

#306 Jun 9, 2011
2004 impala 88.000 miles on it, air cond and temp guage stopped working, i put a hand computer on the car, and it showed the code for temp guage scensor faulty, but wich one, there are 2 one on the rad, and one near the thermostat, will change thermostat and one scensor this weekend to see what happens. Update,,,,cleared codes, and all came back to life,,,,wierd.
jim

Phoenix, AZ

#307 Jun 11, 2011
Kim wrote:
my 2006 ss has the outside temp digital readout below the speedometer. Sometimes it will read negative 38F - even in the Texas heat in July! Then my ac won't blow cold air (I guess it doesn't think I need ac when it's telling me to watch for ice!) After I drive for a while, the temp will go up and once it hits 42F, the ac starts blowing cold air. This is an intermittent problem - sometimes the ac is cold as soon as I start the car. Any suggestions???


Did you find the solution?
ricopiko

United States

#308 Jun 28, 2011
hey mike did your experiment works??
ricopiko

United States

#309 Jun 28, 2011
Mike wrote:
Just reporting back what I tried over the weekend (before watching the COLTS beat New England). I found a couple of FREE recommendations before going out and spending any money. First, I removed the negative cable on the battery. Then I removed the PCM fuse (found in the top fuse box under the hood on the passenger side) and replaced (with same fuse) after 10 minutes. Then I removed the ground wire (found under the hood on the driver's side above the headlight) and sanded/scraped any paint off of the body of the car at contact point; also sanded down connections and the bolt. Finally, I put everything back together and haven't had the problems in two days. I'll follow up in a week or two to let you know if it continues to work fine.
hey mike did your experiment works?
ss fan

Burlington, NC

#310 Jun 29, 2011
cypressknee wrote:
OK, everyone I think you should jump on the bandwagon of (Mike in Indys) suggestion even though I am a Steelers fan, the Colt has a remedy.
1. DISCONNECT YOUR NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE.
2. UNPLUG YOUR PCM FUSES LOCATED UNDER HOOD ON PASSENGER SIDE TOP FUSE BOX INSIDE TOP LEFT TWO BIG FUSES.
3. THIS IS AN EXTRA MEASURE. IF YOU HAVE AN 01 IMPALA PULL THE RED 2 #10 FUSES (LOCATED ON DRIVER SIDE TO THE LEFT OF YOUR LIGHT SWITCH ON SIDE.
4. DISCONNECT GROUND WIRE LOCATED UNDER HOOD ALSO ON DRIVER SIDE JUST ABOVE HEADLIGHT. YOU CAN SAND IT DOWN OR USE A SMALL WIRE BRUSH CLEAN CONNECTIONS AND SCREW/WASHER.
5. WAIT APPROX 10-15 MINUTES
6. RECONNECT EVERYTHING IN REVERSE ORDER STEP 5 TO1(LAST TO FIRST).
7. START CAR AND LEAVE RUNNING FOR A FEW MINUTES ( YOUR GAUGE SHOULD BEGAN TO ADJUST AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT SHOULD NOT BE ON.
8. TURN OFF CAR.(FAN/BLOWER SHOULD NOT BE RUNNING.
GOOD LUCK AND THANKS TO MIKE IN INDY YOU'LL SOON BE RIDING WORRY FREE.
I WILL FOLLOW UP IN A FEW WEEKS.
IT TOOK ME ABOUT 30 MINUTES TOPS AND ZERO DOLLORS OUT OF POCKET.
worked great, thanks
Alan K

Albany, NY

#311 Jul 16, 2011
I have a 2002 Chevy Impala LS and when i turn the AC on the Driver side is warm and the pass. is cold. If i turn the driver side up to hot the temp changes, as does the pass. side, what would cause this?
Dan

United States

#312 Aug 3, 2011
Mike wrote:
I have a 2001 Chevy Impala LS with about 102k miles. Great car with a few minor nuisances once in a while like the one being described here. I noticed occasionally that the temp guage is not working and that sometimes the cooling fan runs after the engine is turned off--kinda loud actually. Between this site and others I've found possible problems could be leaking intake manifold, faulty thermostat or fault coolant temp sensor. Not sure if related, but I also swear that I smell oil burning--of course, maybe that's just from changing my oil....I'm considering purchasing a thermostat and changing myself--well, I've got a Haynes Repair Manual that I'm hoping will walk me through it. Any other ideas what might be causing this problem?
If i am not misstaken 2001 impala had a recal for intake leaking oil ....possible fire hazard ....dealership should be able to tell you if one exists at no charge.
Arthur

United States

#313 Aug 4, 2011
Car only loses temperature gauge and fans come on when passing by a cell phone tower! Pull over and disconnect negative battery post and every thing works fine again. I don't know what causes this!!!
Xochitl

Monroe, LA

#314 Aug 8, 2011
My car is in the shop right now with the temperature gauge problem, check engine light on, running fan, and not cool A/C air. I am so tired of getting this car fixed, but it is paid for. Chevrolet is wrong for not fixing this mass mistake causing problems for so many people. I thought I would always love chevys, but this issue is causing me to maybe go to a ford. Forgive me chevy lovers. I have also had the catalytic converter replaced and the intake manifold gasket. These along with all the radiatiors and sensors, and thermostats have been too expensive to continue to be a chevy girl. A new car may be more practical than trying to hold on to this 2001 impala love.:(
rene padilla

Waianae, HI

#315 Aug 9, 2011
hi i want to know if someone knows how to fix a/c's my impala a/c blows air from the top and bottom but i cant change it the regulater doesnt move it not even to defrost or the top only or the bottom does anybody know please email me this is my email [email protected] thank you
Perry

United States

#316 Aug 15, 2011
Mike wrote:
Just reporting back what I tried over the weekend (before watching the COLTS beat New England). I found a couple of FREE recommendations before going out and spending any money. First, I removed the negative cable on the battery. Then I removed the PCM fuse (found in the top fuse box under the hood on the passenger side) and replaced (with same fuse) after 10 minutes. Then I removed the ground wire (found under the hood on the driver's side above the headlight) and sanded/scraped any paint off of the body of the car at contact point; also sanded down connections and the bolt. Finally, I put everything back together and haven't had the problems in two days. I'll follow up in a week or two to let you know if it continues to work fine.
did that fix the problem?
Brendan Wall

Oshkosh, WI

#317 Aug 28, 2011
Brian wrote:
<quoted text>
I have the same issue. In my situation, I notice blowers run louder & longer than usual. My guess is that the car thinks it's overheating. I've had it in and the error cleared (whatever that means) and it's fine for awhile...then the same issue happens. Have you found anything out?
I have done some studying because I have a 2000 Kia Sportage and the guy I bought it from said everything worked. Later I found out that the A/C and the temp gauge both didn't work. I figured that the temp gauge and the A/C probably had something electrical that went bad and shut them both off. I didn't think the guy would just lie. I think they both went out recently. I was reading in the manual and it said that if the engine gets too hot then the a/c condenser fan shuts off. So I figured it had to be something to do with the Temp gauge not working and with the temp gauge not working the A/C fan wasn't getting the ok signal from the temp gauge saying, "ok the engine is cool enough to run the A/C condenser fan". So I did some more studying and it turned out my Engine Coolant Sensor wasn't plugged in after I plugged it in the A/C and the Temp Gauge worked great.
b dub

Delmar, IA

#318 Sep 26, 2011
claude wrote:
i have the same issue as brian, temp gage not working , fans stay on ,run for a while after the car is turned off. i have replaced the temp sensor 3 times it works for a little while 5 or 6 days then the problem comes back.i love my 2001 impala but these types of problems make me want to buy a toyota, can anyone help?
I replaced the fan relay #1 and the fans began shutting off with the key like there suppost to as far as the guage goes its looking like the cluster needs replaced or rebuilt
Michelle

United States

#319 Sep 30, 2011
ricopiko wrote:
<quoted text>
hey mike did your experiment works?
omg Mike youre are the best thing since white bread...lol I had the same problem with my temperature gauge and my air conditioner blowing hot.. after taking it to the ac shop and buying a new ac sensor.. I got on the site read mikes comment and fix my own car.. which makes total sense I disconnected my battery reset my computer and my car works fine ac blows cold everything works fine again after disconnecting my battery which makes sense because of the brain my car works fine thanks mike you are a total life saver.... live in yuma arizona weather temperature range from 105 to 115 without ac I would die
Michelle

United States

#320 Sep 30, 2011
Thanks Mike youre the best...
tyler

United States

#322 Oct 2, 2011
Ingrid wrote:
I also have a 2001 Impala with 76k miles and the temperture gage goes more than half way when I drive below 30mph or when I am stopped. Took it to a mechanic and said it was fine. I'm going to get a second opinion.


try replacing the water pump. the seal on mine was worn and i got a new one for $30 and took me 1 hour to install.
i have a 2002 3.4L impala
Frank

San Antonio, TX

#323 Nov 6, 2011
Change the thermostat if your car is running hot. It might be stuck.
2001 Chevy Impala

Hastings, MN

#324 Nov 25, 2011
My firend has a 2001 chevy impala 53,000 miles. The first indication he had was that the check engine light came on with the temperature gauge not working. He also got the fans to work for 3 minutes after the car was shut down. Within the last six months, his car would be hard to start after it's been running. If he let the car cooldown, the car would start right up.
*
We replaced the thermostat, temperature switch, and cleaned the throttle body. We used the haynes manual and this website ( http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_i_change_my_... )
*
The haynes manaul only gave enough information to perform the replacement but did not give all the details.
*
Replacement Procedure:
Disconnect the MAS & Air Temperature Sensor connector. Remove the Intake from the filter to the throttle body. The bracket ontop of the throttle body needs to be removed ( 2 bolts and 1 nut). The throttle cable and crusie control cable need to be removed. Next, remove the throttle body (disconnect all connectors from throttle body prior to removing). There is one bolt and a bolt and nut. There is a nut on the bottom right side (looking in from front driver side fender). This nut holds the coolant bypass in the throttle body. Remove this nut and then there is the bolt behind the clamp of the pipe. Also disconnect the two hoses connected to this solid collant bypass line (I recommend you remove the clamp disconnect the hose) from the main hose downstream of throttle body bypass coolant line. Remove the throttle body carefully. I would take some of the recommendations from the website such as loosing the one bolt from the coolant pipe from the water pump to allow movement of the bypass line, loosen the exhaust upper cover to allow better access to the thermostat housing on the 3.4l enging. I also would suggest to buy throttle body cleaner and clean the throttle body.
*
Temperature Sensor:
Remove the temperature sensor (disconnect the connector) using 19 MM wrench and replace with a new temperature sensor. Take notice of how many threads were exposed on the old sensor to see how far you should tighten.
*
Thermostat:
Disconnect hose from radiator to goose neck (thermostat housing). Remove the bolt on the top with a rachet 13 MM socket. The bottom bolt is the pain. Use a small 13 MM wrench and remove. This took 35 minutes to remove and a lot of paitience. Once removed, take the goose neck (thermostat housing) and remove old thermostat. We replaced the stock thermostat with a fail safe to ensure engine would not over heat.(Note: opening the thermostat and other coolant lines will cause coolant to spill and will smoke when operating engine). Install new thermostat and reverse order. I recommend the bottom bolt be threaded a few threads since the end is tappered. tighten the top and bottom bolts and reconnect coolant line from radiator. Reinstall the throttle body, throttle body bracket, throttle cables, intake piping and top of filter housing.
*
Recommend to take notes for each step performed and take pictures prior to removing to allow for easier reassembly.
*
Fill the coolant reservior and start the car. Let the car idle and monitor temperatures. Allow thermostat to open to allow the air voids to be filled. Once thermostat opens, take teh car for a spin. We drove around the freeway and around town. We got a low coolant level light that cleared. Also have the heater on high with the highest fan setting during both initial start up and cruising. The replacement of temperature sensor fixed the temperature gauge, the thermostat fixed the operating temperature band (replaced since we were already this far in to teardown & Cheap. Cleaning the throttle body along with the replacement of the temperature sensor and thermostat has fixed the check engine and stopped the fans from running 3 minutes after engine shutdown.
*
The check engine light turns on with temp sensor failure which causes ac OFF and fans to function after shutdown.

Since: Feb 12

Racine, WI

#325 Feb 12, 2012
ok...i had the same problem..gauge stopped working, fan kept running after shut-off. I read this forum and it seemed the consensus was that it was the thermostat. I spent 8 hours replacing it. It was a total b i t c h. Also replaced the coolant temperature sensor to cover all bases ( took 10 minutes).A total of $20 in parts.

Problem solved.

At first it didn't work and I was about ready to drive it into a lake, but after it warmed up enough (the thermostat must have opened) the gauge started working again and the fan turned off immediately. I signed up and posted this in appreciation for this site and past posters for helping me solve this problem, and to hopefully help the next guy.

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