automatic door lock problems
Posted in the Chevrolet Equinox Forum
#1 Mar 30, 2010
Anyone having problems with your automatic door locks not unlocking when puting the vehicle in park??? This is 0n a 2006 equinox
#2 May 26, 2011
My rear driver side door doesn't lock or unlock with remote or pushing the button. in has to be manually locked and unlocked.
#3 Dec 29, 2011
We are having problems with the front passenger and the rear left door locks. They have to be opened and locked manualy. Any suggestions on fixing them?
#4 Mar 7, 2013
Mike, Jason,or Kevin. My 2009 Equinox is haing the same problems as you mentioned above. Can you tell me what you had to do to fix it???
#5 Mar 7, 2013
I apologize for the inconvenience caused by this issue. I can check to see if any recalls or such have been listed. Also have you had this examined by a dealership? If you would like us to look into it, please send an e-mail to email@example.com with your VIN#, name, contact information, situation,mileage, and dealership. I hope this can be resolved quickly for you. Regard!
GM Customer Assistance
#6 Jun 23, 2014
Our 2008 Equinox had similar problems on the driver's side door - which required a new wiring harness at $360.00 at the dealer - the problem occurred at 36,200 miles, the dealer gave me a "break" since it was close to the warranty expiration and charged me $180.00. Then the same problem occurred on the passenger side door at 81,000 miles. The windows wouldn't roll down, the door lock/unlock button wouldn't do anything. The remote key fob unlock/lock wouldn't work either. A google search revealed the very common problem of the wiring being broken between the car body and car doors - under the rubber boot protector. Sure enough, we peeled the rubber boot back and found 5 broken wires and another one ready to break. The solution was $3.20 box of butt connectors at the auto parts store. Simply insert the two end of wires (they are color coded/wrapped so it's easy to connect the same wires back together) in the end of the butt connectors and crimp the connectors. Now, all functions are operating and I saved another $360 at the dealership for a repair that is clear a design and engineering problem. I hope this helps you in your situation. I am waiting for the problem to reoccur back in the driver's side door or the back two doors. Here's some info that might help you:
The space between he door and the car body is very tight - limited space even with door fully open.
Do not remove the rubber boot from the car body side - remove the rubber boot from the door side hole and use a lot of duct tape to hold in back against the car body side -- the boot is stiff and rigid and will get in your way unless you find a way to compress it and hold it back.
You will not get any slack or extra wiring from the car body side, so don't even mess with the car body side attempt to pull extra wiring through.
Remove the door panel from the door so you can see the wiring path and follow the wires the the end at the door hole (under the speaker on my Equinox) and push the wiring clips out so the wiring is more loose and and will give you a little more slack to work with between the door and car body.
Crimp the butt connectors very hard and then wrap each broken wire using black electrical tape before recovering with the rubber boot.
Expect to spend 1.5 - 2 hours on the total repair job if you do t0 yourself.
You can watch a YouTube video on how to remove the door panel and replace it correctly.
Hope this helps you or anyone reading this with the same problems with locks, windows, alarms, mirrors, and remote entry issues on the Chevy Equinox.
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