pathfinder problems

Killeen, TX

#185 Jan 4, 2008
sandra wrote:
<quoted text>
struts and shocks helped mine to quit shimming
You need to replace the eight rear control arm bushings. 4 X 4 has polyurethane ones that are stiffer than stock. My '01 was almost dangerous due to the shimmy, I replaced the bushings and rear shocks and it rides like new. Next is beefier springs at all 4 corners and new struts in the front. The only way to correct the shimmy is the bushings.
Detroit Arizona

Joplin, MO

#186 Jan 6, 2008
I just bought a used 97 Pathfinder. The history of the vehicle is fairly unknown to me (there was a language barrier, enough said)--so I'm hoping I didn't get ripped off here. But I'm hoping to drive it for at least another 60k (has 99k right now). But curious to know if anyone has any recommendations on when to change the timing-belt. The belt is kind of noisy when idling right now, so I'm thinking of getting it done soon.

Any info would be appreciated.

Graham, WA

#187 Jan 8, 2008
Yo dude, change it now. Its recommended every 60k miles, its proably the original, which i changed mine at 100k, darn lucky it didnt screw the valves up. It'll cost around 750-1k to change it but worth it. Unless you change it. It aint easy, based on the shop manual. As for those bushings, you only need to replace the lower two on each side. The uppers really dont need replacing because they, dont do a lot. But after replacing the lowers, what a difference!

Graham, WA

#188 Jan 8, 2008
Heres a little known fact, that bosh spark plugs are death to Pathfinders. Yes, a rare situation arises, they get hot and brittle and the tip breaks off. Guess what happens when a tip breaks off in an engine, it partially spit it out the exhaust valves, except, it broke that valve on the way out. Ouch, it ran but, bearly, got off the freeway, made it to the repair shop and $2k later it was repaired. Got to keep the valve as a souvernir. Called bosh, and well, they admit it happens, but, say they're not responsible, defective metal. Went back to NGK plugs and no more problems.
GB in Oakland County

White Lake, MI

#189 Jan 8, 2008
Sounds like its ready to die. 100k miles on a Nissan is pushing it. Pawn if off on some stupid punk with a Civic and a coffee can exhaust, and go buy a Blazer or Explorer or something else thats going to last longer.

Graham, WA

#190 Jan 8, 2008
Please GB, we know that pathfinders arent broken in till they have 500k miles on them. That Blazers and Explorers only last 40k if your'e lucky. So, go trade your fix or repair daily ford in for a real vehicle. :-)
Detroit Arizona

Joplin, MO

#191 Jan 14, 2008
Thanks Jerk. It's in the shop right now, new timing belt, water pump, valve seals, and outside belts all new (around $850, I hope).

Yet now I'm wondering if it's even needed, as my 1997 manual recommends changing it at 105k, and my extended research has taught me (I think, as I can't find a lick of a reliable source) that the 97 Path 3.3L V6 is a non-interference engine,(read: not really crucial to replace). Does this mean that only 97 engine has a non-interference engine? It seems very unlikely, which is why I'm getting it done for ease of mind (which isn't when I think of how else I could have used that money!)


N. Arizona, by way of The D
GB in Oakland County

White Lake, MI

#192 Jan 17, 2008
jerkbait wrote:
Please GB, we know that pathfinders arent broken in till they have 500k miles on them. That Blazers and Explorers only last 40k if your'e lucky. So, go trade your fix or repair daily ford in for a real vehicle.:-)
Yeah, your screen name says it all. I have owned Japanese cars. My Toyota blew its engine at 8000 miles and Toyota denied any wrong doing for a month. My wifes Honda has had the trans replaced, new rotors, seat heaters, dash rattles, and sliding door fall off on my sons foot. All under 30k miles. So I do know a thing about crappy Japanese cars. Unlike you. Nisaan are all JUNK. Ask my sister with the Maxima. Seven trips to the dealer since November for problems with her new Nissan. 500k miles? More like 50k and send it to the junk yard. Maybe sooner. You don't know anything.

Graham, WA

#193 Jan 17, 2008
Detroit, if the belt doesnt get replaced, it will get out of timing, and ruin the valves, in the least expected moments. Better to spend the money now then, 2-3k later. Besides you'll notice it runs better.

Morristown, NJ

#194 Jan 18, 2008
can any one specifiy what exactly parts are required to fix the wobble in 96 pathfinders

Hoboken, NJ

#195 Jan 21, 2008
Got the death wobble. Bought the Poly bushings from I'm having a problem getting the bolt out of the rear part of the trailing arm. The bolt is so stuck that i don't need a wrench to hold the bolt as the impact wrench loosens the nut. Tried a regular hammer and it wouldn't budge. About to go buy a torch as much as i hate the idea. Anyone think heat will help?

Graham, WA

#196 Jan 25, 2008
Heat works, small mapp torch will do the job. Varinder, its the lower trailing arm, i.e. 4 lower bushings.

Chicago, IL

#197 Jan 27, 2008
Same problem here with Nissan Pathfinder 2001; the steering wheel has shimmy play around 55+ MPH and the steering wheel feels so loose all the time, going over the humps will worsen the situation. I've had this problem for so such a long time and it is a shame that no mechanic cannot find the cause. I've done a lot in a attempt to fix this shimmy; i bought new tires, it did not help. New rims, it did not help....!! New control arms and boll joints...just waist of money!!

The interesting thing is when the winter time comes around and the temperature drops below 0 the shimmy play then is completely gone!!I don't know why but that is the only time of the year when i enjoy driving my truck.

And another thing when i drive on the highway i feel as if the frond end acts like a unstable small boat on the's almost like it goes from side to side. So weird and it feels so unsafe.

Any ideas would be so appreciated! Thanks

Hoboken, NJ

#198 Jan 27, 2008
Sounds like the rubber oem bushings in the lower trailing arms are stiffening in the extreme cold. Makes sense.

Chicago, IL

#199 Jan 27, 2008
CSW wrote:
Sounds like the rubber oem bushings in the lower trailing arms are stiffening in the extreme cold. Makes sense.
Thanks for your reply. But those bushing you are mentioning, are they somewhere in the rear or in the front? Would they cause the shimmy play in the steering wheel?

Hoboken, NJ

#200 Jan 27, 2008
The bushing problem we've all experienced is located in the rear starting just in front of the rear tires. I never paid much attention to the steering wheel. It always felt like the entire truck is rocking side to side.

Graham, WA

#201 Feb 4, 2008
CSW I see you're in New York, so, when are you coming out "west"? If you havent driven across to the west coast, your'e missing out, especially if you drive the northern route. Southern route is to hot in the summer. We've made the trip several times, its amazing. Well later.

Scarborough, Canada

#202 Feb 5, 2008
if your mass air flow sensor is not working it could cause your vehicle to shut off.

Stroud, OK

#203 Feb 6, 2008
I have a 98 with 160,000 miles have been having
problems with sharp turn or hitting bump it goes
its all over the road. Took it to the dealer they
said it need all 4 links replaced at a cost of
1000.00 Why they don"t recall these pathfinders
they are a death trap. I have almost rolled over

Englishtown, NJ

#204 Feb 7, 2008
Pat, if you have a little mechanical knowledge you can change the arms yourself with the right tools or do what most of us are doing and just changing the bushings in those arms. has the arms for under $70 each ($140 both arms)and has the polyurethane bushings (roughly $80 with shipping for 4 bushings). here is the home grown process of changing the bushings.
I ended up cawing off my rear bolts and ordered some new bolts from .
Jerkbait, my long driving days are over. i wobbled all the way to North Carolina in 2006 and didn't want to drive back. and that was only 10 hours. lol

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